tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86609183371504992562023-11-16T18:43:08.371+02:00Ketoro travelsRolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.comBlogger89125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-73053779694957223992013-12-18T17:17:00.001+02:002013-12-18T17:17:37.210+02:00Passage to Cape Town – Part 2: Got there!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It was midnight, the sky mottled dark grey, the sea black - but for two hours we witnessed an extraordinary light-show under the boat.<br />
<br />
The sea around us was filled with an incredible number of bioluminescent creatures and in this way Nature illuminated an amazing spectacle: Ketoro was in the centre of a huge fish bait-ball, which was using us as shelter from the dozens of dolphins seeking to eat their fill.<br />
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Bioluminescence in the sea (tiny organisms that emit light when agitated) showed the bodies and highlighted the shapes of every fish and dolphin; and the sea at our bows was alive with constant movement and ever-changing patterns. As the boat surged forward on a wave, hundreds of fish fanned forward and outwards in an arc, while the dolphins leapt at them - some left their place where they were playing in the pressure wave at the bows, others came from the sides to corral the fish and send them back under the boat where the game began again.<br />
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Swimming dolphins trailed broad bright ribbons of light where the bioluminescence in the water streamed off their fins and tails - alongside the boat, these highlighted torpedo shapes trailed their bright wakes as they surfed the waves, as they surged through the flower-pattern of fish, leaving black water passages in the luminescent fish ball as the fish fled.<br />
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And then we saw a different shape: the flat broad muscular predator with characteristic sideways tail motion. It was very quick - a dolphin sped at it, there was a short sound and the shark left them to their ball. Nature was at work, and if it was not for the bioluminescence we would have been oblivious of the drama in the water beneath us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhffEo6KF3rgOezjYeN1avv9r19VtmgPVVc8D3dUnx01YuQqiayDgsGKM4LJRz6IWwaObjxBrsD5tgdE_0aEexI2gnLc3sduc3nWF8IG_QNG4kWkcmc5ydX_qlYyyq-q_9uPU3bkrbRVPBC/s1600/IMGP5010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhffEo6KF3rgOezjYeN1avv9r19VtmgPVVc8D3dUnx01YuQqiayDgsGKM4LJRz6IWwaObjxBrsD5tgdE_0aEexI2gnLc3sduc3nWF8IG_QNG4kWkcmc5ydX_qlYyyq-q_9uPU3bkrbRVPBC/s400/IMGP5010.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">No photos of our bait ball but an indication of the sparkle of bioluminescence</i></td></tr>
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This was a fantastically memorable experience on our last passage: the second phase of our journey to a home base in Cape Town.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8DvwLdTgPf2Qeb8MPhZrODOrKalF20B0ziVLuOne3A3MCrF9mh266rAIcNoFei9KXFyJQz1UlrsAjCkxrD6wlrzleDaL17riM4eAyZ0a_CzLkNNcSV92ohEsRyjfZgDdBotTB4-wPsa36/s1600/IMGP4985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8DvwLdTgPf2Qeb8MPhZrODOrKalF20B0ziVLuOne3A3MCrF9mh266rAIcNoFei9KXFyJQz1UlrsAjCkxrD6wlrzleDaL17riM4eAyZ0a_CzLkNNcSV92ohEsRyjfZgDdBotTB4-wPsa36/s400/IMGP4985.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Exiting the narrow channel of East London river port.<br />This was a ‘small’ swell; at times the huge vehicle carrier ships are kept in port for days as they cannot exit the narrow channel in the large swells that come in</i><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
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We left East London with the prospect of a few days of great down-wind sailing… and so it happened. Although the winds were fairly strong from the start, the screecher sail coped well and made for fast sailing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Sunset under the screecher: a good day and the sail behaving</i></td></tr>
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But it was COLD! And we have become weak and pathetic after years of sailing in the tropics. And… these cold far-southern-latitude winds were from behind so there was no protection in the cockpit. What to do? Close up! Never mind streamlining.... close up the canvases! We made like a huge tent on the water…. And smiled! What’s more: that straight, broad back canvas acted like another sail (as in those old square-rigger boats) and probably increased our sailing speed!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzUYp4dwVTU8ZjKJKywTxC3drFDQOTBSebXfwJQE2Dk8nXymv_j1boJe6_xBmaJTZdisOQMSHjAeaFcOEaP5Yr0TXD9ot46BUG3xm_d2uwbgcvQ-s0U9n9W-j3Jc7eqMdaSjBN9sk92qbx/s1600/IMGP5013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzUYp4dwVTU8ZjKJKywTxC3drFDQOTBSebXfwJQE2Dk8nXymv_j1boJe6_xBmaJTZdisOQMSHjAeaFcOEaP5Yr0TXD9ot46BUG3xm_d2uwbgcvQ-s0U9n9W-j3Jc7eqMdaSjBN9sk92qbx/s400/IMGP5013.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Camper a-float<br />Hard to believe this is the cockpit of a boat on the move in strong conditions! </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">No worries about wind/current; no need for canvas enclosures for warmth! </i></td></tr>
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But then the winds became stronger, too strong for the screecher sail, and the deck became a scene of frenetic activity. We had to furl the sail before it got damaged... but it would not furl properly in the strong winds. The bottom of the sail had a good tight wrap but further up it was loose and within minutes the winds were in, had opened up the wraps further and the material was flogging and flapping noisily, high above us, in danger of ripping.<br />
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What to do? We decided to drop the sail immediately and as it came down we fell onto this 18m-long monster to hold it down in the winds, secured it to the trampoline with ties, and resorted to our trusty newly-bandaged headsail.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Night-time sail problems result in a mess of sail on deck</i></td></tr>
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This gave us peace for hours, but the taped repair made in East London did not last long (5 years seems beyond the sell-by date for adhesive sail tape) and we witnessed a less attractive fluttering ribbon than that created by the bioluminescent dolphins!<br />
<br />
There was more to-and-fro with sails (more up-down, more small problems to solve) but nonetheless we actually had a really successful sail and passed Cape Agulhas: the southernmost tip of Africa. Our first seals in over 4 years came to play! They lifted their curious noses out of the water and appeared to smile as they regarded us with their beady eyes then flipped and turned and dived down. Then there were odd projections out of the water… A seal on its back, the only parts visible a shiny black nose and two flippers held up to warm in the sun! Fun animals, these.<br />
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Strong winds came in again: still from our stern, but too strong for the screecher – more sail changes. By now the boat was a mess, with baby net in tatters, lines chafed, damaged sails strapped down on the trampoline, main sail tied to the boom with bright yellow ties to prevent it lifting in the strong stern winds; but Ketoro was certainly making way quickly!<br />
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We were well ahead of schedule and as we saw False Bay ahead of us we realised we would get to Simonstown that day.<br />
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Thoughts: it will be too late to call the marina (about 6:30pm) but still light so we can anchor outside and go in tomorrow.<br />
<br />
And the winds built... And then we were in a howling 42 knot gale, with resulting steep waves that we surfed. But a way down the wave, the (reefed) sail would catch a huge gust and Ketoro would slew and threaten to broach.... We had little control in these circumstances so took in the last of the sail and let the engines and autopilot do their thing.<br />
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Squinting into the setting sun through the un-clear "clears" (a boat's plastic windscreen) we tried to navigate our way past Simonstown naval base and into the small-craft harbour area. That identified, we had to drop anchor. Quickly.<br />
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Picture: 42knot gale, Irene in foul-weather gear up front, Rolf desperately trying to hold the boat forward into the wind.... And we fell back, far too close to another yacht. Swear.<br />
We must lift the anchor and try again (shouting over the wind).<br />
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Rolf as before (still); Irene pulling up anchor chain.... And a rich crop of kelp and seaweed. Red, purple, brown, green, slimy, big leaves, small leaves on stalks, soft, hard.... All glued together with gloop and brought up with the chain and making its way into the locker to jam everything up. Swear.<br />
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Rolf as before (again!); Irene ripped and pulled and flung kelp and mud in chunks large and small... And they were blown back onto her, and onto the deck, and onto the clear screen, and some off the boat too, happily!<br />
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It was all too slow; the sun was down, light was starting to go, we had to try to anchor again - and then we got a call on the radio. The marina pub dwellers had seen us and assured us there was a berth open, if we were feeling lucky enough to manoeuvre in the storm.
So we prepared fenders and mooring lines and gave it a go.<br />
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The wind had not abated and this boat with its high sides and windage, is a little headstrong when manoeuvring in the confines of a marina in 42 knots.
Irene on the bow with the long lines to throw, Rolf yells above the wind "we've only got one shot at this".<br />
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Well, the shot was taken, was accurate, we tied on, we were home. Hello, False Bay Yacht Club!<br />
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We went to that pub!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">View from Ketoro’s roof towards naval ships and submarine </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOMXsIJwaAJzYEqjzaJSwDCo8uUYd_gSjVeW9btN8ZkDxDhwcoo88zk3uGn4xp988BVwiSrxYxGo7Y0md5SLAXyKgZPUrA4AjSg3g95EvsZighcFisl9CNxiBtNS7-Ow-SKzkyM7GRMCV9/s1600/SAM_0902.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOMXsIJwaAJzYEqjzaJSwDCo8uUYd_gSjVeW9btN8ZkDxDhwcoo88zk3uGn4xp988BVwiSrxYxGo7Y0md5SLAXyKgZPUrA4AjSg3g95EvsZighcFisl9CNxiBtNS7-Ow-SKzkyM7GRMCV9/s400/SAM_0902.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">A section of False Bay Yacht Club from shore<br /></i></td></tr>
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-2261950546351749372013-12-06T18:10:00.000+02:002013-12-06T18:10:31.482+02:00Voyaging to Cape Town Part 1 - East London refuge<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The water in the harbour channel was flat and easy, so the sudden waves as we passed the breakwater were shocking: even though we expected them.<br />
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It was Sunday 5:10am and we were beginning on our passage from Richards Bay (RB) to Cape Town. Port Control had announced the channel to be clear of shipping and our flight plan was in order so we may depart.<br />
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Our previous blog describing passage-making (Reunion to RB) started off "Weather, weather, weather. That is all yachties talk and think about before they set off across the ocean...”. <br />Well, same again! This time, we had only a short weather window: there was a low pressure system over RB and the next one was due in East London (EL) on Tuesday. The theory is: commence at the back end of a low system and this will give you a bit of time before the worst of the next system hits and you need to find a place to hide. The problem is the SA coastline offers few places to hide.<br />
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It is ridiculous that by 4:30am it is light in RB (you will not be aware of this if you don't live in a boat – un-curtained and with horizontal overhead hatches. Rolf is very aware of it: Irene's appearance with her black airplane eye covers terrifies him into nightmares of pirates!) but every hour helps if you are trying to beat the weather!<br />
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<b>The journey</b><br />
<br />
Our Richards Bay to East London plan had several sub-plans:<br />
1 Richards Bay to Durban as fast as possible;<br />
2 Find the Agulhas Current;<br />
3 Use the current for a fast trip to East London;<br />
4 Exit the current and enter East London before the next round of SW gales reach there!<br />
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This is how it went….<br />
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Richards Bay to Durban - Starting off on the back end of a low is not easy: winds are still strong and you head into them, seas are still very grumpy; many in the marina advised us not to go, because of the conditions, but we set off into those grumpy seas... And griped! And were SLOW SLOW SLOW! But it all settled within about 6 hours, we passed Durban in about 13 hours and started to focus on …<br />
<br />
Finding the Agulhas current. We were 5 miles off Durban, where there was supposed to be current: and indeed we had current… AGAINST US! Unbelievably frustrating as for hours all we saw was our speed not being good enough to get to East London before the next SW gales reached us - plus the added fear of being in the strong south-west flowing Agulhas Current when the opposing SW winds hit and thus experience the notorious waves that build up. Should we revise our plan and turn back for Durban? Eventually, far offshore and around Aliwal Shoal, at about 2am on Monday morning we finally found the current: WOW!<br />
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We were in a rocket-ride. The current at times added 4 knots to our boat speed (generally 5-6 knots) plus we had good following winds: a yachtsman’s dream.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">SOG (speed over ground) on chart (left) is 3.4kn faster than boat speed (right)</i></td></tr>
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Our max speed seen was 12.5 knots-at the height of wind and current!<br />
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The winds, however, got stronger and the “gale warning” we heard over the VHF radio for our area was perfectly accurate!<br />
<br />
The seas stood up… and up. Generally, when waves come underneath us, Ketoro reassuringly puts her bottom up as each wave lift us from behind and then settles as the wave moves ahead. This time we had a different and unnerving experience: big waves came underneath us… and because we were going so fast, we stayed bottom up… and stayed... on the front of the wave!<br />
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And then our foresail tore as we were doing a gybe. In the chaos and banging and bedlam and noise that is sailing under these conditions, we then managed to pull it in and stop it from completely flogging itself to bits, but – we now had to motor the rest of the way.<br />
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The last step was to exit the current and enter East London harbour. This sounds easy but you need to plan carefully, and start easing out of the main current about 35 miles before East London. You are 10-15 miles offshore on a racing ocean and with gale force winds from behind and if you are not careful you get swept past East London!<br />
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We did it, entered East London river port at 3:00 am on Tuesday, put our anchor down and slept!<br />
The plans came together: ok, not with finesse, not prettily, not that there was any dignity…. But things fell into place eventually.<br />
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<b>A stop in East London </b><br />
<br />
The Buffalo River is a lovely calm safe place to anchor; just don’t get in the way of the commercial ships using this port. 4 hours after anchor-down we were woken by one of these tugs that had come right to the boat…<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoXGGeXR_GR6n2Y-Scb7GRK-tMt2xExrRDzgU76avpU-9P5EthOjHLeddhvpi-7mlavhrABq9Lb84BKyBefm56NYLXb3LBgusobwjd0prbqr_AxNhXAIBQCeNIFt7E5fBTNG8gjQFCK0Xs/s1600/IMGP4973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoXGGeXR_GR6n2Y-Scb7GRK-tMt2xExrRDzgU76avpU-9P5EthOjHLeddhvpi-7mlavhrABq9Lb84BKyBefm56NYLXb3LBgusobwjd0prbqr_AxNhXAIBQCeNIFt7E5fBTNG8gjQFCK0Xs/s400/IMGP4973.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
… to say we were in the way of a ship they were soon to take into the dry dock.<br />
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So we lifted anchor and moved and watched as the ship was manoeuvred into the dock and the gates sealed before water was pumped out.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">The vessel in dry dock (Ketoro in far background)</i></td></tr>
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On that first day, we also had chores to do. Problems with the water maker, deck-wash pump and a bilge pump were resolved and the damaged sail was bandaged!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaBRh_GV1P17YtH8VSDHP5BzuHlbsNWZU-vfkhwykiu8-U1WcLFGZ1588yNMlLxVsMD2VjViBcRjU7cgi9WohBS7uabhjd_370LnovOnKArTsvIH2AqVXJ-f6sjEJ4rS_55VHBoTLUksRv/s1600/SAM_0617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaBRh_GV1P17YtH8VSDHP5BzuHlbsNWZU-vfkhwykiu8-U1WcLFGZ1588yNMlLxVsMD2VjViBcRjU7cgi9WohBS7uabhjd_370LnovOnKArTsvIH2AqVXJ-f6sjEJ4rS_55VHBoTLUksRv/s400/SAM_0617.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">The sail occupies the galley and outside cockpit while it undergoes temporary repair – <br />fingers crossed that it holds the rest of the way to Cape Town </i></td></tr>
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The Buffalo River is a recommended anchorage for protection from big storms, and there were about 8 other transiting yachts here with us in a peaceful scene.<br />
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Although there is always the hum of cars (crossing the top deck of the bridge) and trains (on the lower bridge level and alongside us), bird-life is plentiful and the Egyptian geese can hold their own in a noise competition!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglsmCcp_BdRRY__2-A89BHaTMnE5u0mjDyW4-M8EcF9mYG3_aCrQstA10XSSysc6IGUjC7rZ9QyItEONrOnm90dG5OJsjDZTqV1I62yE_uqfx9imxYK12z0BFAdJupyA0McpkwLJinj_W_/s1600/SAM_0635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglsmCcp_BdRRY__2-A89BHaTMnE5u0mjDyW4-M8EcF9mYG3_aCrQstA10XSSysc6IGUjC7rZ9QyItEONrOnm90dG5OJsjDZTqV1I62yE_uqfx9imxYK12z0BFAdJupyA0McpkwLJinj_W_/s400/SAM_0635.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Another day a glance out of a side hatch showed a steel wall behind us; we went up top and saw a new neighbour coming alongside…<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwiOBVM1a9gQqDzPka6GeAD8SZYTHrCODTDQqIxGhqKjTuFcWlcFvqrHULvA6LoCeOC7xH0MiyAq3ZhyMla6z6wmtLa9DROkS_9msSPoFzsIP8DbF-rJHV-U2THhVEBcSGpod3LUEA5Mz/s1600/SAM_0688.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwiOBVM1a9gQqDzPka6GeAD8SZYTHrCODTDQqIxGhqKjTuFcWlcFvqrHULvA6LoCeOC7xH0MiyAq3ZhyMla6z6wmtLa9DROkS_9msSPoFzsIP8DbF-rJHV-U2THhVEBcSGpod3LUEA5Mz/s400/SAM_0688.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Swedish vehicle carrier tied up behind Ketoro </i></td></tr>
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Mercedes Benz manufactures all their C series cars in East London and imports its other models. Over the course of about 10 hours, over a thousand Mercedes were offloaded and a similar number loaded alongside us by being driven across the drawbridge ramp that is lowered from the ship to the wharf. A very well organised operation that was followed the next day by the start of the process of driving them all to the Mercedes plant nearby.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaf3BNctbUTycklQ7_n6bO4YDq6QmtiJsW75HLOJ_qxZ7FqOfoMcRLX8A7_8ei89KU1TCxxbmI7bGIJKSchM7dWSFNR11D28fT_Tn2e-VQfW38U-pnpxJiTx_d66t156hMnFBpggqVUHQv/s1600/SAM_0769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaf3BNctbUTycklQ7_n6bO4YDq6QmtiJsW75HLOJ_qxZ7FqOfoMcRLX8A7_8ei89KU1TCxxbmI7bGIJKSchM7dWSFNR11D28fT_Tn2e-VQfW38U-pnpxJiTx_d66t156hMnFBpggqVUHQv/s400/SAM_0769.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">A small fraction of the thousand+ Mercedes vehicles offloaded onto platform alongside us; <br />engine on railway line in background </i></td></tr>
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The parents of friends are resident here, and they kindly lent us their car: it was an opportunity to (get to a Laundromat! … and) see something of East London, in particular the lovely coastline.<br />
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Soft, fine-sand beaches; clear water; huge sand dunes and dense dune vegetation – this area in the Eastern Cape is beautiful and so typical of the South African coastline we remember!<br />
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The weather prediction is that the SW winds will abate and move through south to south east and east.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Wind direction row shows change on Saturday, to the easterly winds that we need </i></td></tr>
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Saturday will see us leave for the next stretch, in the hope that the next stop is Simonstown, after a great 4-day stop in EL.<br />
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-67348037146516679862013-11-30T09:05:00.001+02:002013-11-30T09:58:53.818+02:00Flying the home flag<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well, Ketoro has been flying her home flag in Richards Bay, but we have not been there to see it, as we have almost permanently been elsewhere!
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijd5SAIYjk-qW_GvShXqoZWPClppoDiO9aaadBtVX_PCw3pihGImmV10hrJTJWqCP3hS56D7Kxo-bXpFZuKl8U6anF1k7Zehns6_4gZ9wKHEtUqjVVe0HFQOFSev5RXA2-3vOXS26E8Ttn/s1600/SAM_0505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijd5SAIYjk-qW_GvShXqoZWPClppoDiO9aaadBtVX_PCw3pihGImmV10hrJTJWqCP3hS56D7Kxo-bXpFZuKl8U6anF1k7Zehns6_4gZ9wKHEtUqjVVe0HFQOFSev5RXA2-3vOXS26E8Ttn/s400/SAM_0505.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Ketoro (far left) at Zululand (Richards Bay) Yacht Club marina</i></td></tr>
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But from the moment we landed, we had a great welcoming by lots of family -<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg22LjHnKbkALnKhDb8zkBrxW5meBBqZLh4Z7l8UI7bLUOOH1rKIdhfli75Bm8BqyIJyHtTrAJt3z5lyTXs9QiHN140rSZTHQlKprgayPqxOtINhDkmK1vKtAwFTHAxxUAGjkTrL71MqW-Z/s1600/IMG_0035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg22LjHnKbkALnKhDb8zkBrxW5meBBqZLh4Z7l8UI7bLUOOH1rKIdhfli75Bm8BqyIJyHtTrAJt3z5lyTXs9QiHN140rSZTHQlKprgayPqxOtINhDkmK1vKtAwFTHAxxUAGjkTrL71MqW-Z/s400/IMG_0035.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Grand-dads take grandsons for walks to the hard stand – an outing both enjoy!</i><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeGKuaS6eohZwXf_KdRO7dTe_w6dlsL_OBqLq-RUu-uuzC3Am5A4az7XDt4s8UtlW05n64CLXiZeo5fPGayQ8ymya1l9CqP_8l-QL30syCHefuC3TB_ZlTi5h8aWGGRReV6EcMil27Ezvl/s1600/IMG_0046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeGKuaS6eohZwXf_KdRO7dTe_w6dlsL_OBqLq-RUu-uuzC3Am5A4az7XDt4s8UtlW05n64CLXiZeo5fPGayQ8ymya1l9CqP_8l-QL30syCHefuC3TB_ZlTi5h8aWGGRReV6EcMil27Ezvl/s400/IMG_0046.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Family visit: Livi (the day's chef) and Irene with Ingi and Caz </i></td></tr>
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What a difference there is between the first month after landing in a new country and the first month after landing in your home country. <br />
The former sees frenetic activity as you try to cover all the bases (seeing the sights, observing the people, learning the customs, exploring the countryside/town/shopping options) while the latter sees (equally? MORE?) frenetic activity as you rapidly resume the "I'm home" strategies (visiting with friends and family; seeking work: Rolf went to Johannesburg; doing necessary medical procedures: Irene went to Cape Town; topping up the storage lockers with familiar foodstuff: we all went to Pick ‘n Pay and Woollies!).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmy293wep8F14jnLiS-yzhqrFJKIXnl2HvT1Ptyd6MwcSSRhHhqFllco8FirOqiP3z2c4eo5n8nVJOpu7BKXBAdk5bbLL9b8G-aG4FC4PDTDaNmj-YUHb3Z-ePea16YchTolv33T9sl36V/s1600/IMG_0274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmy293wep8F14jnLiS-yzhqrFJKIXnl2HvT1Ptyd6MwcSSRhHhqFllco8FirOqiP3z2c4eo5n8nVJOpu7BKXBAdk5bbLL9b8G-aG4FC4PDTDaNmj-YUHb3Z-ePea16YchTolv33T9sl36V/s400/IMG_0274.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Never far from the sea - here Cape Town </i></td></tr>
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Leaving the boat in the RBYC marina, we are happily resuming life in SA and seeing home with different eyes, having been away for over 4 years and now looking at our country as our cruiser friends would.<br />
Cruising has put us in touch with wonderful people from all over the world, who are interested and extract from us information on South Africa – forcing us to gather our thoughts into coherent information. We now enjoy hearing from them about their actual experiences as many have now sailed here and travelled ashore.<br />
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The item generally on top of a foreigners list is to go "on safari" - South Africans are spoilt for choice with game parks but people the world over get very excited at the thought of seeing elephant, rhino and lion in their natural environment. Well, to be honest, after a break of more than six years since our last game park visit, we were excited too, and a trip to Hluhluwe-Umfolozi was a priority.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ozwOqGcgp5cOIrOa__jY-QVl_AwD3T-FXT-8PdmvUN2LgeBKOsr1xNdEIFsedCeTUztCgExp3_7wJrq60jYljt164lJpfGPHG4pMx7J31x-YbtGyCewqL_oQQaoqOMgjDt9FTax_qjXu/s1600/SAM_0397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ozwOqGcgp5cOIrOa__jY-QVl_AwD3T-FXT-8PdmvUN2LgeBKOsr1xNdEIFsedCeTUztCgExp3_7wJrq60jYljt164lJpfGPHG4pMx7J31x-YbtGyCewqL_oQQaoqOMgjDt9FTax_qjXu/s400/SAM_0397.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">A typical KZN rural scene en route to the park – we look at it with new eyes! </i></td></tr>
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The bush was looking magnificent in its (southern hemisphere) post-rains spring green, and baby animals were everywhere - a lovely time to visit. One of the best things about a game park visit is that it forces you to slow down and relax (although we suspect that many of our foreign friends are not doing this enough, in order to tick that big 5 box in their limited available time!)<br />
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Sometimes, however, you have no choice but to stop:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVkAsWwiPm6jEP0cGxEiGVGCI074KdPUMrJrx3FEmAssEa9_3kwM16tHWR4Gr9MQjI4-pQdVo0YfJnxP4WOxd0l4pG5fT9aygXVBzPEPSzR9QVTPyQWizDDIpLZ-JwP5Whd_GDxZAr1bpn/s1600/IMG_0612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVkAsWwiPm6jEP0cGxEiGVGCI074KdPUMrJrx3FEmAssEa9_3kwM16tHWR4Gr9MQjI4-pQdVo0YfJnxP4WOxd0l4pG5fT9aygXVBzPEPSzR9QVTPyQWizDDIpLZ-JwP5Whd_GDxZAr1bpn/s400/IMG_0612.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Game drive on hold for a magnificent rhino pair </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVaXTy1S0vCfSUTFpAXZ3PYnSRBXb9hTjFGYrYZS0ivhqNd35jUyI-nKtaIuBNCKIDZfRIE_yDRKx6gPJuZ6M6nOWofJ2tjcX-ZaqamDo0ePv7rQoxd3Iod34q9Ivky9qVmO2jEXntgf58/s1600/IMG_0600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVaXTy1S0vCfSUTFpAXZ3PYnSRBXb9hTjFGYrYZS0ivhqNd35jUyI-nKtaIuBNCKIDZfRIE_yDRKx6gPJuZ6M6nOWofJ2tjcX-ZaqamDo0ePv7rQoxd3Iod34q9Ivky9qVmO2jEXntgf58/s400/IMG_0600.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Then baby came out and dad’s look became a warning. This was a narrow road.<br />After a half hour impasse we turned around and decided on another drive route! </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH0QzMfC7Hgh8DOiBAVftTpMR8XJ9RT4poNEaBttrH5DjMsGvMJUxZ9YKc-TfSPqmJvWKz5laVY-jg2X5Det3dHLcVxxVbTPGwk80VAFggSoumyth7jt4_PaIYrwp3oe8EVlMsWA8oW2bp/s1600/SAM_0451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH0QzMfC7Hgh8DOiBAVftTpMR8XJ9RT4poNEaBttrH5DjMsGvMJUxZ9YKc-TfSPqmJvWKz5laVY-jg2X5Det3dHLcVxxVbTPGwk80VAFggSoumyth7jt4_PaIYrwp3oe8EVlMsWA8oW2bp/s400/SAM_0451.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">We have become tree-huggers! (A dearth of those at sea) </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi43yOob5FR46UPkHGUxz_3BfKNyTH4tY_PGW5oaGkYnGn7BAFwJqdZNOJ6CJXM_F4nVmM0okx1hjmSlCmUPrwDlqVvbz-gA8SKwukdvGPcoN1FeYYBv5JDErSl6euNEqnGQpXzU9Pzjbud/s1600/SAM_0421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi43yOob5FR46UPkHGUxz_3BfKNyTH4tY_PGW5oaGkYnGn7BAFwJqdZNOJ6CJXM_F4nVmM0okx1hjmSlCmUPrwDlqVvbz-gA8SKwukdvGPcoN1FeYYBv5JDErSl6euNEqnGQpXzU9Pzjbud/s400/SAM_0421.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Sometimes a tree’s silhouette is enhanced – this time by giraffe,<br />animals with a great silhouette themselves! </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj44Qz_fHPoYq6fxcyvUF8zEUPSd0mTWYqsGZihVbfW80oZZ-JFzkYfEIu3v__L-TmTsKQImcpesgAErPsF9BwDMGoY7TzPTM7wqBGq2NtUMXWdJ-3odejAwqlQ_jkqkXa89EnzlaCB_BfL/s1600/SAM_0419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj44Qz_fHPoYq6fxcyvUF8zEUPSd0mTWYqsGZihVbfW80oZZ-JFzkYfEIu3v__L-TmTsKQImcpesgAErPsF9BwDMGoY7TzPTM7wqBGq2NtUMXWdJ-3odejAwqlQ_jkqkXa89EnzlaCB_BfL/s400/SAM_0419.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Elephant “land mines” were prolific – <br />and carefully avoided in order to save any dung beetles busy in them</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCuYagg152ESP0vzS3X7aavyQvfg_QsBNzV9GT_saxYfXwVFB9Q2LFEucFGWUQJ0AlY7axbo2ZG1KaJjrnEbL7WaPPo5pJMxpyo05SyCvaHxTm_YPlKENX3q6ZGmGKO4anxZghJpFy1PR/s1600/SAM_0426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCuYagg152ESP0vzS3X7aavyQvfg_QsBNzV9GT_saxYfXwVFB9Q2LFEucFGWUQJ0AlY7axbo2ZG1KaJjrnEbL7WaPPo5pJMxpyo05SyCvaHxTm_YPlKENX3q6ZGmGKO4anxZghJpFy1PR/s400/SAM_0426.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Dung beetle in traditional pose – head-down, pushing its ball of dung up a slope </i></td></tr>
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</i><br />
A collection of comments in connection with game parks…<br />
First, the reception room always has a mapped magnet-board for placing your latest sightings; well, there are no longer magnets for rhinos here – an effort to limit communication to poachers. We are reminded of the stir we caused in China in 2012 when a SA R10 note fell out of a bag onto the table: we were astonished by the state of excitement of the locals who gathered round the table when they saw it.<br />
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We now also have a new breed of poacher: one sourcing vulture heads for traditional medicines that are expected to provide “clairvoyant powers, foresight and increased intelligence”… apparently particularly to suit the demand for greater gambling and lotto success. The weekend we were at Hluhluwe, 37 white-backed vultures died from eating a poisoned elephant carcass. Vultures have been killed in their hundreds in Africa recently – 400 in a single poisoning case in Namibia in early 2013.<br />
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Now on a much lighter note: the BIG 5, little 5, ugly 5… and “plant 5”.<br />
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The Big 5 of course are elephant, buffalo, leopard, lion and rhino. But these guys have inspired the creation of other groupings, to make game or bush drives more fun and focussed (more boxes to tick!?)...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Another Big 5 beast; we did not see the cats this trip, but of course everyone else saw lion! </i></td></tr>
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The Little 5? Elephant shrew (with a long nose), buffalo weaver bird, leopard tortoise, ant lion and rhinoceros beetle (which looks a lot like a miniature rhino).<br />
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The Ugly 5 are evidently (fondly!?) considered to be the hyena, wildebeest, vulture, warthog (Irene's favourite beast!) and marabou stork.<br />
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Finally: the Plant 5 are indigenous plants with Big 5 animal names - the leopard orchid, buffalo thorn bush (of which giraffes are very fond), rhino coffee shrub, lion’s tail (wild dagga/marijuana) and elephant food (spekboom).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin3tKas5SZM7WhVgwErjNRYaO-RNrbD3f6KlRHorfExOLrPXxaGQ-aqjsclSduGQi7GIMOR5XaV6YiB6Zv6zzxeEDafD7oXVF4aSoFgeAaQXvwZf2K9RhukhoEw7YMBPbdiVnY6tnvj4Ht/s1600/SAM_0448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin3tKas5SZM7WhVgwErjNRYaO-RNrbD3f6KlRHorfExOLrPXxaGQ-aqjsclSduGQi7GIMOR5XaV6YiB6Zv6zzxeEDafD7oXVF4aSoFgeAaQXvwZf2K9RhukhoEw7YMBPbdiVnY6tnvj4Ht/s400/SAM_0448.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">“At least we had a decent aggressive thorn named after us. I would have hated an orchid”</i></td></tr>
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The best part of being home is the chance to spend time with family and good friends again - here to celebrate Oma's (Rolf’s Mom) 88th birthday with her.<br />
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Now back on the boat, we watch for a weather window to set sail for Cape Town, and wonder if we will be driven to take refuge from the storm fronts en route.... Maybe not such a bad thing after all, giving us a chance to see the country differently from our previous visits, and now as our yachtie friends would!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7cSQgZmPfTVYTfXZp1pA5bQu8AVKI47vQPWV4EwEf4JW6SJrPE1W4JmSI41UWmnppVXbm1i3IkZxVPrz89Sq08iJnnzqVHy9K-t15fGJlXryXMmE58V-qrMxWltOmP9Pr8-FNzNBfUqW1/s1600/SAM_0387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7cSQgZmPfTVYTfXZp1pA5bQu8AVKI47vQPWV4EwEf4JW6SJrPE1W4JmSI41UWmnppVXbm1i3IkZxVPrz89Sq08iJnnzqVHy9K-t15fGJlXryXMmE58V-qrMxWltOmP9Pr8-FNzNBfUqW1/s400/SAM_0387.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Looking beyond the yachts to the tanker entering the channel which we will exit tomorrow</i></td></tr>
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We think we will leave on Sunday 1 December: follow us on the google earth link on the right… and hope for fair winds and seas, please!</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-63492663967831700412013-10-22T15:00:00.000+02:002013-10-22T15:00:46.916+02:00Passage-making: Reunion to South Africa<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Weather, weather, weather.<br />
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That is all yachties talk and think about before they set off across the ocean. You plan your trip as best you can (wish-list: gentle long-period rollers, no adverse current, maybe a little current in our favour, please?; winds from a consistent direction, consistent strength… maybe 20knots just forward of the beam, please?) and set off on the day most likely to give you a good start…<br />
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Hahahaha!!<br />
<br />
We left Reunion in the knowledge that this passage around the southern tip of Madagascar was potentially a tough one. The weather and seas deliver absolutely nothing from the wish-lists, as the weather coming up from the Cape consists of a succession of weather front systems, all moving inexorably north and east and over any vessels en route - and when you approach the African coast, the notorious interaction between the SW storm winds and the Agulhas current adds a further dimension.<br />
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But our departure was timed for the end of the southern winter and thus the promise of fewer bad weather fronts, so off we set, Rolf and Brian (our nephew) securing the dinghy while underway and Reunion island still in the background…<br />
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Wake-up call! See that great flat sea? That was in the lee of the island… we were shocked a few hours later as we churned our way through and over huge swells (4-5m), were pushed by 25-32 knot winds, and had a most uncomfortable start as the waves were all on the beam, lifting us side-on. Then there were some rogues: water over the top of the cockpit roof, water over the stern and pouring forward over the cockpit floor; water over the dinghy as we slewed around and we came the closest ever to sliding down a wave sideways.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">From the shelter of the saloon… they end up slamming down on top of the decks</i></td></tr>
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Everything went flying in the galley and saloon (well, come on! We are a catamaran and should experience no more than a tinkling of the ice cubes in the cocktails!) some hatches capitulated and showed leaks when assaulted by solid water at that angle and with that force; a main sail reef line chafed and parted within the first two days, spilling the mainsail and requiring installation of the spare line on a bucking cockpit roof, other smaller bits flew apart and required attention up front and some damage was taken by bodies in the process: the boat demands its daily quota of bloodletting!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Setting up spare reef line</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAHjAa12k9iUuZseFlG3I8jJ0LZcEsYUPicgYPwo9Gm4jumxxW_N-aXPU-ENOg3dMv09XZpkxdsinoJDWtqVRGfTzUuoYhPBAdSBsCiX51UfxAgG4aaC_ygDJTG9knuQhYCb90KuSe_Zmt/s1600/IMGP4879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAHjAa12k9iUuZseFlG3I8jJ0LZcEsYUPicgYPwo9Gm4jumxxW_N-aXPU-ENOg3dMv09XZpkxdsinoJDWtqVRGfTzUuoYhPBAdSBsCiX51UfxAgG4aaC_ygDJTG9knuQhYCb90KuSe_Zmt/s400/IMGP4879.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Foul weather yachtsman’s gear… and fluffy slippers!</i></td></tr>
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Welcome to ocean crossings (not usually the fluffy slippers!! Just when you need a little TLC on the toes…!).<br />
<br />
The following day (day 3) was calm and beautiful, gentle sailing under the screecher sail … and a rest period while we awaited an approaching front. Nonetheless, not all on the wish list was supplied: the current was horrible! 2 knots against us meant that while our speed through water felt great at 6+ knots, we were doing little more than 4 knots over ground in our effort to whittle down those 1500 miles to Richards Bay. This was truly frustrating and in fact we ended up suffering adverse current for almost the whole journey.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1Hu-ulhCBX5gz-O4y_W6PLmJTrJ1ZqDNBpaQzngZEpX1ahNidgokJhjazBBsGwB9gNtdrQM9dMBEFWwpccTR9_MpEgyTF_p1k8ykD_HC2DZO5fRcRc9rreFiAxrovYAHbsdHK0_adLsg/s1600/IMGP4862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1Hu-ulhCBX5gz-O4y_W6PLmJTrJ1ZqDNBpaQzngZEpX1ahNidgokJhjazBBsGwB9gNtdrQM9dMBEFWwpccTR9_MpEgyTF_p1k8ykD_HC2DZO5fRcRc9rreFiAxrovYAHbsdHK0_adLsg/s400/IMGP4862.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">What to do on a calm day… getting away from everything in the world!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi3FZT_0BaQPMl6jBXUWrg6FfnyPulkVnmngvwYoRKOJs3oHVw6PqS8MKrnG9loGF1X66c06E5pMOGHiMu0jgvOaGLr7ZTWWj6BpKNzNmZCslXtgHGEx46UydVbSg9pve9M8F1Gt5yMelo/s1600/IMGP4703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi3FZT_0BaQPMl6jBXUWrg6FfnyPulkVnmngvwYoRKOJs3oHVw6PqS8MKrnG9loGF1X66c06E5pMOGHiMu0jgvOaGLr7ZTWWj6BpKNzNmZCslXtgHGEx46UydVbSg9pve9M8F1Gt5yMelo/s400/IMGP4703.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">What to do on a calm day… transfer fuel from jerry cans. Are we having fun yet!?</i></td></tr>
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Of course, the frontal system then hit us – barometer plummeted, winds came in and the log reflects the passage of the system as winds changed from NE to N to NW to SW to S: every wind-shift required attention to the sail plan, whilst we bounced on the sea made lumpy by the changing winds, sometimes having to helm when the autopilot did not cope, squalls passed over us… and the starboard engine died, requiring that Rolf go head-down under the bunk to investigate. The problem was terminal and that engine was off-duty for the remainder of the passage.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiep-Dj5ghQVykA83VxdBSvBbaqdgdRuaJjRHNV5dDaVf3tTxGIG_NYOGQpZp0evrbr3dgfeKfP6q1UhhNf4HHfGLhxJLXj9hRWAT54DFWijWLzkk0_7CI5oLFxt6P6mM_82wDA1PWTXFmJ/s1600/SAM_0185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiep-Dj5ghQVykA83VxdBSvBbaqdgdRuaJjRHNV5dDaVf3tTxGIG_NYOGQpZp0evrbr3dgfeKfP6q1UhhNf4HHfGLhxJLXj9hRWAT54DFWijWLzkk0_7CI5oLFxt6P6mM_82wDA1PWTXFmJ/s400/SAM_0185.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Engine oil contaminated with?? discarded into empty jerry cans </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjXvrD8jjuzx2zMG0A3cJ45jqiD7T4SIYppdtr5ID4BOZzt0EQWG3-livYdtsoRs67KG948VJixz98ppOxEPmCc50-o-afx7uW_3r3cZBWS7uSnVgDeYwMNkLcSe4VKKz7PHigXEq0pf1/s1600/SAM_0356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjXvrD8jjuzx2zMG0A3cJ45jqiD7T4SIYppdtr5ID4BOZzt0EQWG3-livYdtsoRs67KG948VJixz98ppOxEPmCc50-o-afx7uW_3r3cZBWS7uSnVgDeYwMNkLcSe4VKKz7PHigXEq0pf1/s400/SAM_0356.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">24h Barometer pic tells a tale: <br />a massive pressure drop shows the low system we went through (12-6h prior); pressure rose as the high system moved in; stable means GOOD!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxP5L7btO26PrSiqzWXJ3fMHopdNpB6ICIU-vHTkSF3ifeUg99okyMa7SsnACwejDkycNMsZttqMynGrdMCBZaStoKgBMvTqXma71ZTk2mRfpKTQl8KUQq2eQX_YQf2D7ts_9V2ZueU13S/s1600/SAM_0237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxP5L7btO26PrSiqzWXJ3fMHopdNpB6ICIU-vHTkSF3ifeUg99okyMa7SsnACwejDkycNMsZttqMynGrdMCBZaStoKgBMvTqXma71ZTk2mRfpKTQl8KUQq2eQX_YQf2D7ts_9V2ZueU13S/s400/SAM_0237.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">
<i>We have passed through the squall line and leave bad weather behind us: temporarily!</i></div>
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Getting weather downloads with satellite phone: the only place we could connect necessitated making a “table” for the computer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGmuDpsA1feCOtknGPxapD6iIHucPWJ38UpbbkR5ypU6CMo7KL4A0-w6zuo1rUUrrTDW3RPPooFy24CmxzQtwm2fXSfLs50jVLzNi6pepftPyHYF9T3x4CPqGVksgJhkUCly3mmcvt31L/s1600/IMGP4814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGmuDpsA1feCOtknGPxapD6iIHucPWJ38UpbbkR5ypU6CMo7KL4A0-w6zuo1rUUrrTDW3RPPooFy24CmxzQtwm2fXSfLs50jVLzNi6pepftPyHYF9T3x4CPqGVksgJhkUCly3mmcvt31L/s400/IMGP4814.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">‘Pile of Cushions’ tables in bucking boats are a challenge - something is going to go!</i></td></tr>
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The high system came over us and again we had a period of calm (day 6) with lovely sailing… and dolphins, the beautiful sight of the setting sun and rising moon simultaneously and finally: the green flash as the sun’s last sliver disappeared. Treat!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJeSAh1aPIq5wDHtMd2LiK7UFYU_OBPsXW707ELbNdY46Atn5VI1NvueD1E2aBJzyo1uzAlly0NDZdAM6pYjbXiqMFzRclTB7Gt1cL64_c6EB8VsmWzRWVXVLZH6m4AIHmZuQiDjXtbuQQ/s1600/SAM_0204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJeSAh1aPIq5wDHtMd2LiK7UFYU_OBPsXW707ELbNdY46Atn5VI1NvueD1E2aBJzyo1uzAlly0NDZdAM6pYjbXiqMFzRclTB7Gt1cL64_c6EB8VsmWzRWVXVLZH6m4AIHmZuQiDjXtbuQQ/s400/SAM_0204.JPG" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Sun sets with moon sliver up high</i></td></tr>
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Day 7 was auspicious for us (!!) as we passed the southern tip of Madagascar: the under-sea Madagascar ridge has huge impact on the waters miles above it, and we suddenly found current in our favour as we crossed this ridge. Hurrah!<br />
<br />
But we knew we were getting closer to sea expanses that were more troublesome, with strong currents. Typically, if a strong wind blows over a fast-flowing current in the opposite direction, it produces large steep waves – and the Agulhas current, which flows generally towards the S/SW, is notorious for building up huge seas when a SW wind blows against it.<br />
<br />
Our course coincided with the shipping route between the Cape (and SA ports) and the East and we encountered dozens of large ships.<br />
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The AIS info on the chartplotter was very helpful, as we could see their course and closest point of approach, and adjust our course.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6076lmhDP6Z0sqptdkhlqbN_VNdx_Z2G-hq0JJRbmmGX0kW9lsqC173IXZ4zVXb3BVKqnbyewpRPl1hXJbqZEXqSnhukVNvoRGON5zjV5GUeZ32HobhPu5Msq03col9hiapfeSoGyUOQS/s1600/SAM_0233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6076lmhDP6Z0sqptdkhlqbN_VNdx_Z2G-hq0JJRbmmGX0kW9lsqC173IXZ4zVXb3BVKqnbyewpRPl1hXJbqZEXqSnhukVNvoRGON5zjV5GUeZ32HobhPu5Msq03col9hiapfeSoGyUOQS/s400/SAM_0233.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrILskuD7FJz5LZQgBn6wBg92G0pqe1m5C2sv00FZ29vJjkh2VtemFWWSuBurBC0tR1ghegoDAR7yIRgViXR5f3F-xMCdSFcTu8FZDCDDFpRG_rK_lbvP2KRfEEBMlW8KbrdmEZCzRrm3f/s1600/IMGP4822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrILskuD7FJz5LZQgBn6wBg92G0pqe1m5C2sv00FZ29vJjkh2VtemFWWSuBurBC0tR1ghegoDAR7yIRgViXR5f3F-xMCdSFcTu8FZDCDDFpRG_rK_lbvP2KRfEEBMlW8KbrdmEZCzRrm3f/s400/IMGP4822.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">An intimidating situation: 3 ships approach triangles), closest coming less than a mile away</i></td></tr>
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Sometimes the AIS info entertains:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ82hLehAlT-hi4gWACOQ99JUkygcZOSL09MXB_PBMkhRL7-D68C20aymcSD6G8JtdSXykxqeXj0H_eql_o-kgYaQOWFB4E3qdbSo81rfEfQBPtSONN3F204AgZoQnIw9amwrj3yUGqhtN/s1600/IMGP4883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ82hLehAlT-hi4gWACOQ99JUkygcZOSL09MXB_PBMkhRL7-D68C20aymcSD6G8JtdSXykxqeXj0H_eql_o-kgYaQOWFB4E3qdbSo81rfEfQBPtSONN3F204AgZoQnIw9amwrj3yUGqhtN/s400/IMGP4883.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">This ship’s name (Iolcos Confidence) reflects the reason for its confident approach … <br />with ‘Armed Guards On Board’!</i></td></tr>
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And after Madagascar, there were still two further weather front systems to endure before landfall.<br />
Nevertheless, we finally made it… (adverse current is merely annoying and 6m breaking waves are just babies, really)… and then there was South Africa!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCDnq0dF9e_OgtN04S_kEZIRRIeAb_DFsomdwtRWpJzGN6iZhiXwDfkjB-J3Ok8GjO4_IV3mud-qMmED34NuzoMeNQGL310I3g_T0KBQzCEeTYhCkarFuTVQjiSzVbrHTB1v7aQZMNSGy/s1600/IMGP4927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCDnq0dF9e_OgtN04S_kEZIRRIeAb_DFsomdwtRWpJzGN6iZhiXwDfkjB-J3Ok8GjO4_IV3mud-qMmED34NuzoMeNQGL310I3g_T0KBQzCEeTYhCkarFuTVQjiSzVbrHTB1v7aQZMNSGy/s400/IMGP4927.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Necessarily sailing into Richards Bay harbour (no SB engine)</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGysCBsNLdUt9lAwkZnJSdxAmAWGKDC9oRNswN2vBPJwxxLWE7XljqKqw_eK5ygI0jqOJezFfdU2uELKztmNk1DZC7r3-eNW1fvYgzPGBtS40bAg6MGuto05Hy53rJXNAc8uju0IKft-di/s1600/IMGP4904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGysCBsNLdUt9lAwkZnJSdxAmAWGKDC9oRNswN2vBPJwxxLWE7XljqKqw_eK5ygI0jqOJezFfdU2uELKztmNk1DZC7r3-eNW1fvYgzPGBtS40bAg6MGuto05Hy53rJXNAc8uju0IKft-di/s400/IMGP4904.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Our home flag is now also the courtesy flag of the visited country: first time in 4+ years!</i></td></tr>
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We, and Ketoro, are at home for a bit!<br />
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-45917415123222657012013-10-04T15:36:00.001+02:002013-10-04T16:00:46.716+02:00Take a quick look at Reunion<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Sailed out of one harbour (Mauritius), sailed into another country (Reunion) a day later, and took a couple of days to see Reunion island before setting off again.<br />
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Our heads are whirling: it has been amazing.<br />
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Picturing Port Louis harbour from our boat before departure…<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKrvkyzKveTelRlLLbI1tm8kx9clRJ-ciJ2CBFcCbR_qKgVk9dDQDYppRNMffuY5uI1dgKoPnAfFDJU2WYGSfz8v98cNXsblUVNT8oIbX4IYCcbBRFZTyBGDOdSBsiJPR2Z4I0IkRlNfg7/s1600/SAM_9828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKrvkyzKveTelRlLLbI1tm8kx9clRJ-ciJ2CBFcCbR_qKgVk9dDQDYppRNMffuY5uI1dgKoPnAfFDJU2WYGSfz8v98cNXsblUVNT8oIbX4IYCcbBRFZTyBGDOdSBsiJPR2Z4I0IkRlNfg7/s640/SAM_9828.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
In the foreground is a small cargo boat: yes, it is afloat, but barely, and must be shipping water!<br />
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Behind that is a line of rafted Chinese fishing trawlers – apparently fishing season down here has started, and the Chinese trawlers are permitted to moor in Port Louis but must stay out of Mauritian waters when fishing. This was a line of 18 trawlers attached to a single mooring buoy!<br />
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Behind that some more trawlers and then the fire-damaged cargo ship ‘Brandenburg’ awaiting its tow to somewhere for repairs. Beyond that: silos. A busy harbour, this.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_H4S6bmNmi9fx_TfP7xQ0BEovXXotAdAZoXWq_jnabfx_iLssgrup6RU6-ZlUP7sOon4d0x5aVmGAkwVsPTF46f4qoGsPmZT_A5_GlexvY6ouTg-Y7UKmYznLv-TfF7_ULrC6sZrSF5Ct/s1600/SAM_9845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_H4S6bmNmi9fx_TfP7xQ0BEovXXotAdAZoXWq_jnabfx_iLssgrup6RU6-ZlUP7sOon4d0x5aVmGAkwVsPTF46f4qoGsPmZT_A5_GlexvY6ouTg-Y7UKmYznLv-TfF7_ULrC6sZrSF5Ct/s400/SAM_9845.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Leaving Mauritius and its moored Chinese trawlers behind us</i></td></tr>
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The sail was wonderful and easy with light winds and we were treated to an indigo blue sea which offered up two magnificent Dorado (freezer and tummies all full!) and showed us whales wallowing and blowing nearby. Heaven!<br />
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Then there was Reunion in the distance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKSMZo1BI347mfPxAM-8F8Hsv-w8tJ4OaTPeyaNCeoAN7mihTpF-eK-veqjvOUz54a2IvmL4HWKAmRczfHCbyuvnHz2lQrAu47_0gxXS7uIK43iC2UOKN4_ICnaZkYOAoROvzrVwHHwlZl/s1600/SAM_9890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKSMZo1BI347mfPxAM-8F8Hsv-w8tJ4OaTPeyaNCeoAN7mihTpF-eK-veqjvOUz54a2IvmL4HWKAmRczfHCbyuvnHz2lQrAu47_0gxXS7uIK43iC2UOKN4_ICnaZkYOAoROvzrVwHHwlZl/s640/SAM_9890.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
We got into Le Port and tied up on the fishing harbour wall. Here are our neighbours…<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqvLyQOOrY-8vSUKsB2-yJ9dpN1uXEymPBb_2SAxSbU26B5ORbzS24Icq0spxrEbUDqnI-CNkYLesuc5UgIngUuVq_pSqnF89T1Vh7M8fBeI7Wx4Z5nTppk37_4Q8K_hDLe2y0CAW-jBo/s1600/SAM_0162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqvLyQOOrY-8vSUKsB2-yJ9dpN1uXEymPBb_2SAxSbU26B5ORbzS24Icq0spxrEbUDqnI-CNkYLesuc5UgIngUuVq_pSqnF89T1Vh7M8fBeI7Wx4Z5nTppk37_4Q8K_hDLe2y0CAW-jBo/s400/SAM_0162.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Our front neighbour rests and works on his boat in his tiny jocks (an all-day treat!)</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDK868IDey_LpSx3pn5MdUVItDtO_QRl4fSKfEz_A7lJu-9l6IBbg6EGxJFe8aoEh2NDZygYeMFje-Mavh9IHIcZFvQmxkoY5dpW-T2-SRPJcPoFqHSCGg1xzzaF9SpAzqeE0Mcnh7NCIB/s1600/SAM_0159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDK868IDey_LpSx3pn5MdUVItDtO_QRl4fSKfEz_A7lJu-9l6IBbg6EGxJFe8aoEh2NDZygYeMFje-Mavh9IHIcZFvQmxkoY5dpW-T2-SRPJcPoFqHSCGg1xzzaF9SpAzqeE0Mcnh7NCIB/s400/SAM_0159.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font-size: medium; text-align: center;">
<i>Back neighbours: lucky to have a ladder, as low tide provides challenges getting off the boat. </i></div>
<div style="font-size: medium; text-align: center;">
<i>We have no ladder and Irene no longer has dignity!</i></div>
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Reunion is a beautiful island, with unique features and huge contrasts – white sandy beaches… and also black volcanic sand beaches.<br />
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The island is volcanic and in its centre are ancient collapsed calderas, called the Cirques: three unique “amphitheatres” that were once covered by a single huge dome which collapsed. Each cirque is isolated by steep mountains, and each is unique due to differences in rainfall and accessibility.<br />
<br />
We went up to Maido, an overlook into the Cirque de Mafate.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlFKzOgQ4LXctyabpZY-xZWtI5pFPXY0N0X6n27jr13lZN2tvrYavzh3i0dbRDRWqEuS5GfeebDGdAlWcblYIxf6D2Ln-8dC3jDTsryz5as2q0-ht_JbyLZMs64CJK6y5NSSce1Fg-7Cp6/s1600/SAM_0009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlFKzOgQ4LXctyabpZY-xZWtI5pFPXY0N0X6n27jr13lZN2tvrYavzh3i0dbRDRWqEuS5GfeebDGdAlWcblYIxf6D2Ln-8dC3jDTsryz5as2q0-ht_JbyLZMs64CJK6y5NSSce1Fg-7Cp6/s640/SAM_0009.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Driving up to Maido viewpoint</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaD_gI_xuohpY9g19KKvOEPCzfUQhE67l3SNhg_JZjkAYgXU3mnA3sU8QqIcXBWRiXXJ8-VgSxiy8rLgor-LUHRQugsa0oia35fZTJYJ8VGqWCQMDQGCHC_WQgCWUmRpnfWZP4T8oRuLWO/s1600/SAM_0028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaD_gI_xuohpY9g19KKvOEPCzfUQhE67l3SNhg_JZjkAYgXU3mnA3sU8QqIcXBWRiXXJ8-VgSxiy8rLgor-LUHRQugsa0oia35fZTJYJ8VGqWCQMDQGCHC_WQgCWUmRpnfWZP4T8oRuLWO/s640/SAM_0028.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Above the clouds, looking down on the cirque</i></td></tr>
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This is the most isolated cirque with no road access into it. There are communities living down there: the cirque was originally inhabited by slaves who escaped into the rough terrain to hide and their offspring remain. They have to carry everything in or have it dropped by helicopter.<br />
<br />
A trip to another of the cirques, Cilaos, showed huge mountains with sheer sides and rivers winding along the bottom of ravines.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AGsqSRukzbP22_mYvFVNdu6-fZvKavQtXlXt7OKTWwVDrQvKKUTGWyB3DOvm6UCfp67dsgMi0DXBU5SyWDIeg2vy_WQEQhqPj0t4yOyPtjtHGeklEHjrvGVdh-B0nIbteZC3nxt1_4u4/s1600/SAM_0104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AGsqSRukzbP22_mYvFVNdu6-fZvKavQtXlXt7OKTWwVDrQvKKUTGWyB3DOvm6UCfp67dsgMi0DXBU5SyWDIeg2vy_WQEQhqPj0t4yOyPtjtHGeklEHjrvGVdh-B0nIbteZC3nxt1_4u4/s400/SAM_0104.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">One of the three villages seen on the plateau within Cirque de Cilaos</i></td></tr>
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Getting to Cilaos village requires driving along exceptionally windy roads - the road to Cilaos famously has over 400 twists and turns, plus tunnels and sections of one-way traffic.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Xch7UmcGCo-qAP2x9W9dSvcjxh7ZQm8zYkWCYJewkKaP7rLmJxLNUk5TWR7oDcfVNHU7Yx49klBjR9Y-Ur-dIPpSxk5cPAz7FDG8oA2IJZlDsWyMESERK-b3ySySqBdN0QuIXQ9nusPN/s1600/SAM_0084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Xch7UmcGCo-qAP2x9W9dSvcjxh7ZQm8zYkWCYJewkKaP7rLmJxLNUk5TWR7oDcfVNHU7Yx49klBjR9Y-Ur-dIPpSxk5cPAz7FDG8oA2IJZlDsWyMESERK-b3ySySqBdN0QuIXQ9nusPN/s400/SAM_0084.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Switch-backs and hairpin bends...</span></i></td></tr>
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Driving on these roads, in the “wrong” lane, in a car steered from the “wrong” side (left hand drive country), on bends where it is impossible not to encroach on the oncoming lane to achieve the turn, and with the locals speeding past no matter the road circumstances… hair-raising!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEippj6gP6UDGdH2ops5dQVGVXHqVi2f0OWXRusPugo9jEeXYBV1HArXGGlFMD730FpCofZvtWlU6Vei0IAISWWzgnxfmlY_gsNoSxYH_0lG0_0BglQH7ZbrgUPnlHLnvKLgYKK-ihwaGKCa/s1600/SAM_0090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEippj6gP6UDGdH2ops5dQVGVXHqVi2f0OWXRusPugo9jEeXYBV1HArXGGlFMD730FpCofZvtWlU6Vei0IAISWWzgnxfmlY_gsNoSxYH_0lG0_0BglQH7ZbrgUPnlHLnvKLgYKK-ihwaGKCa/s400/SAM_0090.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Two lanes but only when the oncoming truck agrees!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYUTRjPDWdNZozalHq32BLV06GS3-AC7v6wZ72FgoiY9V7U2JHDcjiI95HlOBIIDQf3U7Wrg6JbGwQtjQ13D9IQy2qD4UsspOpUiqWG0zkeL2lW1FmAHBK6Z7x9Z3CIWQwPzljGan-rCrP/s1600/SAM_0125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYUTRjPDWdNZozalHq32BLV06GS3-AC7v6wZ72FgoiY9V7U2JHDcjiI95HlOBIIDQf3U7Wrg6JbGwQtjQ13D9IQy2qD4UsspOpUiqWG0zkeL2lW1FmAHBK6Z7x9Z3CIWQwPzljGan-rCrP/s400/SAM_0125.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Nowhere for the road to turn, so it had to be taken back under itself<br />… in the space of about 200m</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDLqHAi4SVqfe0W4xJDoJO7P_4i_Y4zEKnHPpq3fjqrJd4yuYyCJIf0fjsyWqyeurAO1s6Ru4jWRd5856uxRI6xCSKjI8hZYx_MNNEU_ZjVAvBdkdYFUfUeVBO_mP4anoIkhwp-cQMqZLs/s1600/SAM_0148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDLqHAi4SVqfe0W4xJDoJO7P_4i_Y4zEKnHPpq3fjqrJd4yuYyCJIf0fjsyWqyeurAO1s6Ru4jWRd5856uxRI6xCSKjI8hZYx_MNNEU_ZjVAvBdkdYFUfUeVBO_mP4anoIkhwp-cQMqZLs/s400/SAM_0148.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">An impasse in pass!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mGEe08sNpdiTgzXRHb70pCktQNfM_PmkA8qz03WPuMmkzPdSPgLK7-B3uE3e8HtGLiV_sR2MhnAXiKU55o0ex75T0DPk1DiQEBjz_hcaYvDsTsyqQyhjpbRNJ33g9W1iv41x0AdpthjQ/s1600/SAM_0096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mGEe08sNpdiTgzXRHb70pCktQNfM_PmkA8qz03WPuMmkzPdSPgLK7-B3uE3e8HtGLiV_sR2MhnAXiKU55o0ex75T0DPk1DiQEBjz_hcaYvDsTsyqQyhjpbRNJ33g9W1iv41x0AdpthjQ/s400/SAM_0096.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Cilaos Village… lovely but touristy</i></td></tr>
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One of the most active volcanoes in the world is on Reunion - Piton de la Fournaise last erupted in 2007, for the third time since 2000!<br />
<br />
We drove the coast road (the “Lava Road”) and in the south-east saw where the latest lava eruptions flowed down to the sea.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20YjSF7VeeJZ-n_e-TP-O41P8mACbhBwPrfYTN-EeBOARTU8aIpapn0rIHjVwFL71OZsiCPlqseALeUeGqYjhYNq8PUeoi5dfI4rbDwgFaWA0wQxcoWDVEElC2uoaRQrxC3_pisiSIIb8/s1600/SAM_9970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20YjSF7VeeJZ-n_e-TP-O41P8mACbhBwPrfYTN-EeBOARTU8aIpapn0rIHjVwFL71OZsiCPlqseALeUeGqYjhYNq8PUeoi5dfI4rbDwgFaWA0wQxcoWDVEElC2uoaRQrxC3_pisiSIIb8/s400/SAM_9970.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">It is startling to be surrounded by acres of black lava, and see its stream from mountain to sea</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJiQetB-48qqxGilsG_PCS9DoQ0VRUZ6Ara9iBxe3F3yZEahfJXaAwhLYzFGC6RxO2ml0xaf9hYIZiDB84TzkGKk9lk1k4NsToI9PQYO_TQyIIKdDwGmOqBCyNBpCtxRSAWzf0FVjVX3kQ/s1600/SAM_9976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJiQetB-48qqxGilsG_PCS9DoQ0VRUZ6Ara9iBxe3F3yZEahfJXaAwhLYzFGC6RxO2ml0xaf9hYIZiDB84TzkGKk9lk1k4NsToI9PQYO_TQyIIKdDwGmOqBCyNBpCtxRSAWzf0FVjVX3kQ/s400/SAM_9976.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Notre Dame-des-Laves is a church that was in the path of the lava in 2007.<br />It was spared: the lava flow stopped three feet from the building on three sides. Extraordinary</i></td></tr>
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All this driving required refreshment stops and there are many opportunities for this. Reunion is very French: French cars (note our trusty Citroen above), signage, streets… and if you have many Euros you can enjoy your baguettes and coffee frequently. But be polite…<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsdK3_hIyiuhkXjnlVloJJDbrDE1eK2wohg2n8eVxbfINNFNeRiWx2U_NHKPFkfbMYdqvudhl382nDODOLBH1U69DisY7CTbAaGuUsTRC_z3jx1ALSDxU-1nNY5s1iPcVgwytnOA8AAnAJ/s1600/SAM_9909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsdK3_hIyiuhkXjnlVloJJDbrDE1eK2wohg2n8eVxbfINNFNeRiWx2U_NHKPFkfbMYdqvudhl382nDODOLBH1U69DisY7CTbAaGuUsTRC_z3jx1ALSDxU-1nNY5s1iPcVgwytnOA8AAnAJ/s400/SAM_9909.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">If you say please (s’il vous plait) here, you get a discount on your coffee!</i></td></tr>
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What a marvellous visit! Reunion deserves so much more time than this, but we are grateful to have had a short stop-over and tomorrow we leave to sail to South Africa.<br />
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-90750361014965028722013-09-23T18:57:00.000+02:002013-09-23T18:57:38.852+02:00Mauritius 4 - last month<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
In a week we will be gone from Mauritius, taking with us
some wonderful memories…</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguHVqZPufsCNhe9wgRcEZDGLJE0rE-8RVVme0y4BjbwuSdpAB8qPfT5GBVGiZEx-euSH4R4GO8IA1k75c_XQYfu3eHewwMiklK4Ek-G2tGzF0WW9bBjhbuzps9fGF28frfh78qpdaLbY-U/s1600/SAM_8840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguHVqZPufsCNhe9wgRcEZDGLJE0rE-8RVVme0y4BjbwuSdpAB8qPfT5GBVGiZEx-euSH4R4GO8IA1k75c_XQYfu3eHewwMiklK4Ek-G2tGzF0WW9bBjhbuzps9fGF28frfh78qpdaLbY-U/s400/SAM_8840.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">An old Dutch fort lies under these French military ruins at Old Grand Port, Mahebourg</span></i></td></tr>
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</o:p></div>
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The Dutch first landed here about 1638 (calling the island after
Prins Maurits van Nassaueiland). But the Old Port at Mahebourg proved
disastrous, being on the SE side of the island which is exposed to the worst weather
and their time here was characterised by hardship and failure. </div>
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And the extinction of the large, flightless one-egg-per-year endemic Dodo bird.
<br />
And the destruction of most of the Ebony forests.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JSFtkxGb-BrJ8OZAVJ3g_Sjq9I5AV7GKnbiCx7gWAZh8eg_hgNetjKkzSWHpIqvObq_OODl_G0yaMOA-RqaMRlXc2fjkDPEELZzfV0rTflgQx-79fD3p0PMKTd9GQD_dcJQtsZpIsGXR/s1600/SAM_8837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JSFtkxGb-BrJ8OZAVJ3g_Sjq9I5AV7GKnbiCx7gWAZh8eg_hgNetjKkzSWHpIqvObq_OODl_G0yaMOA-RqaMRlXc2fjkDPEELZzfV0rTflgQx-79fD3p0PMKTd9GQD_dcJQtsZpIsGXR/s400/SAM_8837.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Looking eastwards to sea: a bad location for the port, as this area suffers heavy weather</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
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The Dutch cleared huge swathes of Ebony forests but made some
positive contribution by bringing in sugar cane plants from Java before they
abandoned the island, leaving also macaque monkeys, java deer and fugitive
slaves.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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They had found, on the other side of the island, “Rade des
Tortues” - “Harbour of the Tortoises”. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB-XlrGL8MI3nwaGidjuDvDjU-MSc78uWXpYOTPFRwwAykcJt6b8GPSn8Y-S4Bi9mp0Y1lFNrOcyeShgWZ8G-yPqu1ekCPCk-fkzJhzZa-gNVSils0bY0GL1VKE8V6Fk2Ru4QZruVPEqit/s1600/SAM_9544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB-XlrGL8MI3nwaGidjuDvDjU-MSc78uWXpYOTPFRwwAykcJt6b8GPSn8Y-S4Bi9mp0Y1lFNrOcyeShgWZ8G-yPqu1ekCPCk-fkzJhzZa-gNVSils0bY0GL1VKE8V6Fk2Ru4QZruVPEqit/s400/SAM_9544.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">The endemic Mauritius Giant Saddle-Back Tortoise became extinct but numbers of other large tortoises are now nurtured in parks</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
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The French colonised this abandoned island in 1715, naming
it Isle de France, and used “Rade des Tortues” (now known as Port Louis) as the
main port, using mainly slaves to develop the island. The French influence has
remained dominant, despite the British ousting them about 1810 and governing
the territory until its independence in 1968.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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We visited Le Morne peninsular, which is dominated by 556m Brabant
mountain (in the distance on the left, seen from a Black River Gorge area
viewpoint) - a basalt rock peak and UNESCO World Heritage Site.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj309RSSGcyoqM8TYVPLD5VWEl5Zke7V1XIL01AnPSOXg-ov7is0V3WXefQPBS8osTKTr4d-a53gNScBZVv3k2tTRRzXGl6-tTBE8GRJ6mQ4gpgiT0ZRTEA0sKSnK91awg9YpESSrpwmEe8/s1600/SAM_9554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj309RSSGcyoqM8TYVPLD5VWEl5Zke7V1XIL01AnPSOXg-ov7is0V3WXefQPBS8osTKTr4d-a53gNScBZVv3k2tTRRzXGl6-tTBE8GRJ6mQ4gpgiT0ZRTEA0sKSnK91awg9YpESSrpwmEe8/s400/SAM_9554.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Le Morne (“Mournful One”) Brabant mountain: site of slave tragedies</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
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The craggy mountain is dotted with caves and overhangs and
was a refuge for runaway slaves - and the site of tragedy. The British
abolished slavery early in 1835 and a police expedition travelled there to
inform the slaves that they had been freed; but the slaves misunderstood the reason
for the policemen’s approach and leapt to their deaths rather than endure
re-capture. The day is remembered by Mauritian Creoles in an Annual
Commemoration of the Abolition of Slavery.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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On the other side of the mountain, Le Morne lagoon is a
windy playground - a stunning kite boarding spot!<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6YrOqiciSR22l6g067D-DB205bT9G2ZXd2-kwzF_D0dNGN4Ae0DQiuYUHajQUvUqaPwk9vrmuAhltcbKVyAFE-gQjfPEFzJggGxDzdLGFeZGmd2prMOf_jTPSPO0Mbm_4sLazgxITulJN/s1600/SAM_9565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6YrOqiciSR22l6g067D-DB205bT9G2ZXd2-kwzF_D0dNGN4Ae0DQiuYUHajQUvUqaPwk9vrmuAhltcbKVyAFE-gQjfPEFzJggGxDzdLGFeZGmd2prMOf_jTPSPO0Mbm_4sLazgxITulJN/s400/SAM_9565.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Brilliant colours of grounded kites waiting their turn</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDNGnz4YCL7av0F28QFahJQJC8xDzeVBpD3eJKz6MCRrG_rgJU04NPd02yXYWnLCinWWMS-TmeBofbj3XDuG8Dt0RtcOQSVzGTT_nnVnNJo6Ch82y1-59EOUS6_d8PCFtNnk0SqYk3YB43/s1600/SAM_9592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDNGnz4YCL7av0F28QFahJQJC8xDzeVBpD3eJKz6MCRrG_rgJU04NPd02yXYWnLCinWWMS-TmeBofbj3XDuG8Dt0RtcOQSVzGTT_nnVnNJo6Ch82y1-59EOUS6_d8PCFtNnk0SqYk3YB43/s400/SAM_9592.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">We saw about 30 kite-boarders out simultaneously in a small area: an amazing sight!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p> </o:p>Discovering these areas with friends and family was a treat.
We also enjoyed sharing some lovely areas of Port Louis with them… even if they
sometimes complained about long walks!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPS0UygdtSFaf8XFw3QMtnhZ2SjscIVN9dQDAGbo5D8cge5bQq7CjP6aYm4BY52SUohcLOkqmhps5UWztqKoJL_1d28qdwBVDAes9wvRFUTejOAnDKUM6-iZPESZj7x9Q2mUvBmXHKAY7/s1600/SAM_9498.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPS0UygdtSFaf8XFw3QMtnhZ2SjscIVN9dQDAGbo5D8cge5bQq7CjP6aYm4BY52SUohcLOkqmhps5UWztqKoJL_1d28qdwBVDAes9wvRFUTejOAnDKUM6-iZPESZj7x9Q2mUvBmXHKAY7/s320/SAM_9498.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Their smiles lie - Rolf and Carmen growled at me all the way up to the top of the Citadel!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaqRNjmtWaNtI4FKSiXi8Gn7VieV62F0fd_FlsW1hxgVl-waiJgVvr6SbcoFNLGxTCkpIFkdSNwNTsAnybRwlk-0FWS2lnu1jlONGjkVQcQNi2QBEZ2yanOJLkIMsV7zWeDyiptthYkimk/s1600/SAM_9493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaqRNjmtWaNtI4FKSiXi8Gn7VieV62F0fd_FlsW1hxgVl-waiJgVvr6SbcoFNLGxTCkpIFkdSNwNTsAnybRwlk-0FWS2lnu1jlONGjkVQcQNi2QBEZ2yanOJLkIMsV7zWeDyiptthYkimk/s400/SAM_9493.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">But the view from the top was superb</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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After slavery was abolished, the British had to satisfy
their subsequent need for cheap labour; they began a system of bringing in
indentured labourers (a form of debt-bondage) particularly from India but also from
China, Malaysia, Africa and Madagascar. This (often brutal) system ended in
1920, and has resulted in a mosaic of cultures living on the island. </div>
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There are
attractive reminders of Mauritian history and culture around every corner….</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTjdOblVc2Gq7YEmd5yoSuvY7IOQT64lvGwgFpPeuij9mgSlDpDdLqJimgA2xu25XzJfMMogsmUhyntWKLNyDUzr8mOiSwlfv9J-PhFss1hZIdQ6hd8cEr-ue-C4VW5u-x8iGEYoQU1AL/s1600/SAM_9425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTjdOblVc2Gq7YEmd5yoSuvY7IOQT64lvGwgFpPeuij9mgSlDpDdLqJimgA2xu25XzJfMMogsmUhyntWKLNyDUzr8mOiSwlfv9J-PhFss1hZIdQ6hd8cEr-ue-C4VW5u-x8iGEYoQU1AL/s400/SAM_9425.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p> </o:p> </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJL77eOwcWbfP0vpprQIhHt-24e80maMtdMA_bZ8X08DpD-C4SsYn61hKjJeHfNqg7sfCfrycsEe86ZXdKBtfB_y2dG8CU7F23s6L7NL3Czg8md-2bmf8qavNGHXbylFTBGR8ZGFJh6L5/s1600/SAM_9409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJL77eOwcWbfP0vpprQIhHt-24e80maMtdMA_bZ8X08DpD-C4SsYn61hKjJeHfNqg7sfCfrycsEe86ZXdKBtfB_y2dG8CU7F23s6L7NL3Czg8md-2bmf8qavNGHXbylFTBGR8ZGFJh6L5/s400/SAM_9409.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmLGzD-m-G8WMDxuY7Amy9WJy7IQg-POKX0CTKrykW7eqYfqF3HDolAklFZowDvP1-kjp8mYzrPh7oCAmdXfZX68Pbg6SLewlQF2fTtGgOIaqcjdXQ7ag0bEmzZlsgPeCHW3cdtgVUV8Gu/s1600/IMGP4364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmLGzD-m-G8WMDxuY7Amy9WJy7IQg-POKX0CTKrykW7eqYfqF3HDolAklFZowDvP1-kjp8mYzrPh7oCAmdXfZX68Pbg6SLewlQF2fTtGgOIaqcjdXQ7ag0bEmzZlsgPeCHW3cdtgVUV8Gu/s400/IMGP4364.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1_61-w5x6BAFU5O9zrMZ9rfPRuwJN8S0i1t-f4FsCLSPciD7BA_MA94mvl78lra7kc6gJRH9foPBO9C2xFWajc7HVVoAFf7i4iTfyjHnNK1y3DTEgIpeTGX44RdBCV25-Pw9MWGzKeh3/s1600/SAM_9431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS1_61-w5x6BAFU5O9zrMZ9rfPRuwJN8S0i1t-f4FsCLSPciD7BA_MA94mvl78lra7kc6gJRH9foPBO9C2xFWajc7HVVoAFf7i4iTfyjHnNK1y3DTEgIpeTGX44RdBCV25-Pw9MWGzKeh3/s400/SAM_9431.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">1736 windmill alongside harbour</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnhfYpC_SkHghXt9rVFI4cANjDIAr6Jf3mrRp5CziOOl2-L24ruTlPFSIbGqyz09N4T6MGn7uPpqaFvXJ4hvAT2fZ3qL6lCS6F8I2M_GvvZxVDkWzkk0srRxj23sXPTyhMeZSw_qRUa_sT/s1600/IMGP4404.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnhfYpC_SkHghXt9rVFI4cANjDIAr6Jf3mrRp5CziOOl2-L24ruTlPFSIbGqyz09N4T6MGn7uPpqaFvXJ4hvAT2fZ3qL6lCS6F8I2M_GvvZxVDkWzkk0srRxj23sXPTyhMeZSw_qRUa_sT/s400/IMGP4404.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;"> </span><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Lovely street lights on Place Nelson Mandela circle, at Port Louis Theatre</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI6_wLmilBgLJPwiizfc-rcyDBuiSGxEkxQ13dTByh-U5YQexczgJQQwXVIHLhQbhNgJnTvp21iVSYTGSqdQ14bGdZsLkTwBMoFzPgzzeS3bi1Q6Bg2GHsh8VVX3PStG508yJ3v5Lg8n3R/s1600/IMGP4358.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI6_wLmilBgLJPwiizfc-rcyDBuiSGxEkxQ13dTByh-U5YQexczgJQQwXVIHLhQbhNgJnTvp21iVSYTGSqdQ14bGdZsLkTwBMoFzPgzzeS3bi1Q6Bg2GHsh8VVX3PStG508yJ3v5Lg8n3R/s320/IMGP4358.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><o:p style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"> </o:p><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Welcome to Chinatown</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXS1WID8pj2HlYaWvZO6iG6EKRhXzrLREta1ThY_P-kzNsJXVL8YgNBtWCJruHUZu4q7Zy8Jy4pibuzECOiau_fZg1NUGqKwCIWq1jSzZlhCp9rfFRyYzf5O_GxzmyMCU9q_gbz1PoQQpI/s1600/IMGP4609_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXS1WID8pj2HlYaWvZO6iG6EKRhXzrLREta1ThY_P-kzNsJXVL8YgNBtWCJruHUZu4q7Zy8Jy4pibuzECOiau_fZg1NUGqKwCIWq1jSzZlhCp9rfFRyYzf5O_GxzmyMCU9q_gbz1PoQQpI/s400/IMGP4609_2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Small shrine on the water’s edge</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPni2ZcDDVM9HSZqAyXbCHEv6SNLsb7CHZiABqwu6NCyfxWA7yqy4Hwl2y2q9JROlVj-xBcuara0d-HuqM5kHlRApCrSI_1VBq_koyfI68F9QhGFXt6c5p5YeZUJmOJIB40NLn5Ir7rWxK/s1600/SAM_8382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPni2ZcDDVM9HSZqAyXbCHEv6SNLsb7CHZiABqwu6NCyfxWA7yqy4Hwl2y2q9JROlVj-xBcuara0d-HuqM5kHlRApCrSI_1VBq_koyfI68F9QhGFXt6c5p5YeZUJmOJIB40NLn5Ir7rWxK/s400/SAM_8382.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Office of the Prime Minister of Mauritius</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Many of the old Mauritian walls are built of beautiful black
volcanic rock, as in the Prime Minister’s Office building, and any walk along
the coast will take you clambering over these tumbled rocks.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfAVuJcGwh-rvk8LJR-KWnsAvWxJDKqh_bs1mx2s3LLs490QaCNQJLI9U1WGMypXs1C0bkGNKsonQTXCwVmZS3DyBy-L1lw7Ta2ud_n-dUBHeXDVPu4u_CLDnVKlbat1k2HuR56ivliCb/s1600/IMGP4418.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfAVuJcGwh-rvk8LJR-KWnsAvWxJDKqh_bs1mx2s3LLs490QaCNQJLI9U1WGMypXs1C0bkGNKsonQTXCwVmZS3DyBy-L1lw7Ta2ud_n-dUBHeXDVPu4u_CLDnVKlbat1k2HuR56ivliCb/s320/IMGP4418.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Strolling around Grand Baie: sometimes white beach, sometimes black volcanic rock</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
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Pretty beaches, beautiful sea, vibrant streets and colourful
displays: lots to see here!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDGZ15YkIoBTVlPjE2fJZVUe8KlsmcObKTqs6uhYjSIsEbVwoXHZoxXgHzXIaUkwggDlhIlHWBqK0OfCM7Gvav2dYKoZRMwJnn85tKKxSFI3ugfXKSX667XzUCx6Os-e9jdL8m5twx0eI/s1600/SAM_9657.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDGZ15YkIoBTVlPjE2fJZVUe8KlsmcObKTqs6uhYjSIsEbVwoXHZoxXgHzXIaUkwggDlhIlHWBqK0OfCM7Gvav2dYKoZRMwJnn85tKKxSFI3ugfXKSX667XzUCx6Os-e9jdL8m5twx0eI/s400/SAM_9657.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p> </o:p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujCKrHmXILNrunUXxwPFevOg06AZXs6hyphenhyphenLNSHHe1k5Auk-LDimBIXRur5vFeQe4jRQzXFipqyi5UCdB_SqkMS4RNFdYoXXApZ_l_BdzIF4m3Dwu_dO1hyk17qmu80d-S4FWJEOJ-3Amyg/s1600/IMGP4535.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujCKrHmXILNrunUXxwPFevOg06AZXs6hyphenhyphenLNSHHe1k5Auk-LDimBIXRur5vFeQe4jRQzXFipqyi5UCdB_SqkMS4RNFdYoXXApZ_l_BdzIF4m3Dwu_dO1hyk17qmu80d-S4FWJEOJ-3Amyg/s400/IMGP4535.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYu9G4g4_9GEV3jl_iSjDuTgLYPc0l4jmK9anr6UHf20-HL6XyuYpD6dkmxUwFvxzT25Os-EFyp4Y4DSjCH6Mjm55Qexqa0gavA3coNULKQiumOzgNOYCV-pkZZKTfR0Fk63hjMQ6ddEj/s1600/IMGP4504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYu9G4g4_9GEV3jl_iSjDuTgLYPc0l4jmK9anr6UHf20-HL6XyuYpD6dkmxUwFvxzT25Os-EFyp4Y4DSjCH6Mjm55Qexqa0gavA3coNULKQiumOzgNOYCV-pkZZKTfR0Fk63hjMQ6ddEj/s400/IMGP4504.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Magnificent fresh fish for sale in Grand Baie</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJx_WUroD4wW5ouU6pDMVp_s5YSDTUsuhkQPofj2YpuNr0l-N_UqKhD-SUi4Nk5YjuRZHCzsxLpqG2eaWOb6oJCUc32t1TWAOeXObaIf12Eknsf5J7Q5xT4AFXxo6d2iHipDQckiMMkov/s1600/SAM_9680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJx_WUroD4wW5ouU6pDMVp_s5YSDTUsuhkQPofj2YpuNr0l-N_UqKhD-SUi4Nk5YjuRZHCzsxLpqG2eaWOb6oJCUc32t1TWAOeXObaIf12Eknsf5J7Q5xT4AFXxo6d2iHipDQckiMMkov/s400/SAM_9680.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Driving fish towards their nets in Merville Bay</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLU4y7YVr2j-HAGNRVjhPSZvOH9bydme5l_jjKid5nNe8K_W8ZedAf3ysxyh8l0hd5SsSkLbkzWXK8xB4rFZa97N0DHUY1kg7wNXJXj6qsPrZgLGg0eaE6sLcQJzGgNUk_G00ZCRAV46iD/s1600/SAM_9678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLU4y7YVr2j-HAGNRVjhPSZvOH9bydme5l_jjKid5nNe8K_W8ZedAf3ysxyh8l0hd5SsSkLbkzWXK8xB4rFZa97N0DHUY1kg7wNXJXj6qsPrZgLGg0eaE6sLcQJzGgNUk_G00ZCRAV46iD/s400/SAM_9678.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">
<i>This is how you do it if you are a tourist – but YOU don’t keep the fish you catch! </i></div>
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<i>The boats each came in with about 6 magnificent Dorado</i></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMvJbiRm_AG-XAtEiL6TM0IStBmcEr2wvbc51D9EN1LK5KSZ9vjh3dCDCqcFNEQ1DzVXynEoO4TP63tvJY265QfuuC5cYJUX08zGVEyvIWjSLiQN_LxaB5CSZNZrCrpc1uzEU2vyjmQ4mi/s1600/SAM_9421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMvJbiRm_AG-XAtEiL6TM0IStBmcEr2wvbc51D9EN1LK5KSZ9vjh3dCDCqcFNEQ1DzVXynEoO4TP63tvJY265QfuuC5cYJUX08zGVEyvIWjSLiQN_LxaB5CSZNZrCrpc1uzEU2vyjmQ4mi/s400/SAM_9421.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Colourful Dodo? <br />One wonders why the Natural History Museum in Port Louis shows them like this… <br />and behind it an artillery piece!</i></td></tr>
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Our 4 month visit here will soon be over - we leave
Mauritius on 30 September.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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As we leave the harbour, we will pass a sight that has
become familiar in our numerous entries and exits: this fire-damaged ship, the
Brandenberg, was brought in by local tugs months ago. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHX37SDbZ_OKs64_yv51nbywgAFNzxinXYNdCLt-yXzd_HU5ORquUudszxLGGUR4rqEEUD0U0oDPEYoG627vQ43rxDmrqTpTjJmD9V91OIFpcipedzyljqXp1KkVFAtDX_Srt6ZbLxXOz/s1600/SAM_8903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHX37SDbZ_OKs64_yv51nbywgAFNzxinXYNdCLt-yXzd_HU5ORquUudszxLGGUR4rqEEUD0U0oDPEYoG627vQ43rxDmrqTpTjJmD9V91OIFpcipedzyljqXp1KkVFAtDX_Srt6ZbLxXOz/s400/SAM_8903.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">The owners of the containers on board must have been frustrated… <br />but they were eventually offloaded and trans-shipped</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmv4rrzyrO029vtJsCyxBrSUnRRacd2DxJ5BwBS_XgHuDrKcPJoQvhKukRx8X4dfFvA1aCVWOD3xYR_ZyRCUxnD-Pzh2vjX12H2hk5MisJT7PQrm4lC5NN6HLn8k8Pm6DlJDTBful4EWQY/s1600/SAM_9374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmv4rrzyrO029vtJsCyxBrSUnRRacd2DxJ5BwBS_XgHuDrKcPJoQvhKukRx8X4dfFvA1aCVWOD3xYR_ZyRCUxnD-Pzh2vjX12H2hk5MisJT7PQrm4lC5NN6HLn8k8Pm6DlJDTBful4EWQY/s400/SAM_9374.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Hopefully the overhaul and repaint has now begun</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Au Revoir, Mauritius!</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-AUCUhcI3uX5YWLMUSAPY8RkNQ-rO4laMsEu_gtbsB2PKimt3X6MOKklnOhGSpU5C3cwwswaRN4HIJMIZfJJa-3ywOPFe8LPGw0A_wfApdcaqeKBrT7NON8JWmYLFBJb-dcVLjIqu-50Y/s1600/IMGP4562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-AUCUhcI3uX5YWLMUSAPY8RkNQ-rO4laMsEu_gtbsB2PKimt3X6MOKklnOhGSpU5C3cwwswaRN4HIJMIZfJJa-3ywOPFe8LPGw0A_wfApdcaqeKBrT7NON8JWmYLFBJb-dcVLjIqu-50Y/s400/IMGP4562.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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We will stop for a few days in Reunion then, when the
weather prediction looks good for at least the first 5 days, we will set off
for Richards Bay. <br /></div>
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To see where we are on that voyage, go<a href="http://blog.mailasail.com/ketoro"> here</a>….<o:p></o:p></div>
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-15710927397503819362013-09-03T10:16:00.001+02:002013-09-03T10:16:22.723+02:00Mauritius: magic month 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Imagine a beach house leading from patio to shady grass to white beach to turquoise sea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Imagine living on a yacht anchored a short distance from the beach, with your family in the beach house.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsfx5sOAQ67_xdVYVlJwRCx4KArTrHqv4jZ5rP75gp9Mh1Ihv0cnZaKHyNRK9SVPbyDAIvNphvzDA3ndMdvWC4Z3xhpWZPa0mzy1iD_I4qO_fF5AtNLa2_dGayvCEQEO2AkWMdEZrH0pCg/s1600/SAM_9247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsfx5sOAQ67_xdVYVlJwRCx4KArTrHqv4jZ5rP75gp9Mh1Ihv0cnZaKHyNRK9SVPbyDAIvNphvzDA3ndMdvWC4Z3xhpWZPa0mzy1iD_I4qO_fF5AtNLa2_dGayvCEQEO2AkWMdEZrH0pCg/s400/SAM_9247.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Imagine what a great place this would be for a family reunion... well, it really was!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjJpI0ZnQnJo_ts_ZYe8ml2YSOJ1pMumTPP18Jn7RyyvqtpA3pLeeEyrYk3jvQIivzGcxfny7jeR6Fe5pIwatr51GT0LDyJLZ6ant6OEX4H4aOWlqLDrnknGG3S7Y-piocgM6uIbogrgeJ/s1600/SAM_9111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjJpI0ZnQnJo_ts_ZYe8ml2YSOJ1pMumTPP18Jn7RyyvqtpA3pLeeEyrYk3jvQIivzGcxfny7jeR6Fe5pIwatr51GT0LDyJLZ6ant6OEX4H4aOWlqLDrnknGG3S7Y-piocgM6uIbogrgeJ/s400/SAM_9111.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqM4mAzX-kTYdX_YK8ifId8vN6UmIB8Bi2IBPBnRNMwZVFP0lx1mpDuntqr1PYGNsx8Yc2wOBav6Wmd91vyo0OBtK2vhPwAkR13QTRk4F1PW5ClpAvkz0i2VS2h2_uB1dn1I7nCahUUqUk/s1600/SAM_9190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqM4mAzX-kTYdX_YK8ifId8vN6UmIB8Bi2IBPBnRNMwZVFP0lx1mpDuntqr1PYGNsx8Yc2wOBav6Wmd91vyo0OBtK2vhPwAkR13QTRk4F1PW5ClpAvkz0i2VS2h2_uB1dn1I7nCahUUqUk/s400/SAM_9190.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Soft, balmy sunsets</span></i></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk-CgMtRYXMISb5huzqdoUo0N-jGbB4DVk_9xI9l7SqjV_DFhMKdk-bp3gtDw7J8z9AvY8LbhLjs4VV3PYcmsp9ZuUZuBpFyp2UZ2GQdscKjfkmS6OXISJV5k94Vq865auzgJCyqn2lP_T/s1600/IMGP4510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk-CgMtRYXMISb5huzqdoUo0N-jGbB4DVk_9xI9l7SqjV_DFhMKdk-bp3gtDw7J8z9AvY8LbhLjs4VV3PYcmsp9ZuUZuBpFyp2UZ2GQdscKjfkmS6OXISJV5k94Vq865auzgJCyqn2lP_T/s400/IMGP4510.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrYkGwIGnqQX8_f69XId26yUL05u9kSQFGleL68wCVvhuiK0gCarN2j4srHAh3O3d-HNlxPEFaqh39ekS__tSTXPT01npsfmO8yX-NxeDK5sO9Po6OEpaD-j8qD9qk6rVRH5jfES2A16Az/s1600/IMG_7163-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrYkGwIGnqQX8_f69XId26yUL05u9kSQFGleL68wCVvhuiK0gCarN2j4srHAh3O3d-HNlxPEFaqh39ekS__tSTXPT01npsfmO8yX-NxeDK5sO9Po6OEpaD-j8qD9qk6rVRH5jfES2A16Az/s400/IMG_7163-001.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Babies practiced "walking" </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">(sorry sideways...!)</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9HV5vse2BF6bujCH4-wHwB290-KtgTJbz7b-MivG0HCZsIR-68cfNvPjcF24el2KMeBjLctk4NWNkxduFyc-ob59AArABBDN7k82Cj1I4oaMbuONBUhc-pEulHn2VXErBvCrRtjMEFM2/s400/SAM_8986.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Grandparents got stronger!</span></i></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9HV5vse2BF6bujCH4-wHwB290-KtgTJbz7b-MivG0HCZsIR-68cfNvPjcF24el2KMeBjLctk4NWNkxduFyc-ob59AArABBDN7k82Cj1I4oaMbuONBUhc-pEulHn2VXErBvCrRtjMEFM2/s1600/SAM_8986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The dinghy was always on standby, to act as transport and often climbing frame for beach children!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The yacht was a great place for celebrations...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">... and also provided winches, ropes, anchor chains, fenders and other interesting play-items: a strangely different, wonderful new home to explore.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-style: italic;">A window that looks down on people!</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There was a successful day-trip to an island: even 90-year olds, if determined and plucky, can get from beach to dinghy to boat safely - what a celebration!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We ventured out for a car trip to a waterfall in the Black River (Riviere Noire) area: beautiful even in the dry season.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One of the most famous sights in Mauritius is the Seven Coloured Earth (s), a striking geological formation nearby, in the Chamarel plain. These sand dunes have seven distinct colours (approximately red, brown, violet, green, blue, purple, yellow); he differently coloured soil components settle in different layers, giving the dunes a beautiful patterned appearance.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then followed a drive along the scenic south coast to the Gris-Gris headlands of Souillac, a rugged area very exposed to the SE Trade winds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back to the beach-house - at the end of the holiday, left-overs and toys were ferried back to Ketoro at the end of the holiday.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mauritius had been a magical place for a family reunion!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These little ones inspired us to take another look at our journeys and experiences on Ketoro, and tell them in a way that would keep us close to them. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So we have set up a blog for them:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.ketorograndies.blogspot.com/">www.ketorograndies.blogspot.com</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At this stage it shares our animals with them - and all other children who may be interested!</span></div>
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-91238057610195479962013-08-01T09:24:00.001+02:002013-08-01T09:24:51.398+02:00Mauritius exploring: month 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It is easy to relax and have fun in Mauritius. Beyond the beaches
and resorts (enough of those for a small island), a few car trips inland took
us to other lovely and interesting places.</div>
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A dormant volcano, Trou
aux Cerfs (about 600m high, 80m deep and 300m diameter) with a
well-defined cone and crater actually had Rolf walking around the lovely crater
rim! No doubt he would have called it off as a high-risk activity if he had
known it “could become active at any time within the next thousand years” (Wikipedia)!?<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu9gU022CSUi7i0guGXNUX-hUEszlEIG4RFZ7hW2J46Ub6lfO6YZ9-uGZ0r0qPkIgFxUbpIINTzLtx0VZQk8Mg9NrVn5vOMyW_M7K8OJupicn6cOfl-8pILmwJfhc-pN-HXlfn1ZA5WtBk/s1600/SAM_8305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu9gU022CSUi7i0guGXNUX-hUEszlEIG4RFZ7hW2J46Ub6lfO6YZ9-uGZ0r0qPkIgFxUbpIINTzLtx0VZQk8Mg9NrVn5vOMyW_M7K8OJupicn6cOfl-8pILmwJfhc-pN-HXlfn1ZA5WtBk/s640/SAM_8305.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another reason to get up here is the spectacular views.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Also in the high central areas of Mauritius is Grande Bassin
(Ganga Talao), a crater lake about 1800 feet above sea level and very chilly in
winter! <o:p></o:p></div>
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This is the most sacred Hindu place in Mauritius and it must
be astounding to be here during the annual pilgrimage.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Driving through the Black River Gorges National Park (where
we debated hiking, but one of us suggested deferring this fun to another day),
we looked down at the sight below, and decided we should take Ketoro to that
small island, Ile aux Benitiers, inside the reef.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzFSGBorgMqiiPq5dsXWJfqcHCpxmIkGP6JWFXwSOR___Ln0oj5mF3QbfufMkYNwrFYH0aqsOHMg7-qs7NMCFWR313iNLSMsFaX30V3Cr5jyJUb4PUgO1ItYpuvx20IFerh9sQSXTg-Mx/s1600/SAM_8329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzFSGBorgMqiiPq5dsXWJfqcHCpxmIkGP6JWFXwSOR___Ln0oj5mF3QbfufMkYNwrFYH0aqsOHMg7-qs7NMCFWR313iNLSMsFaX30V3Cr5jyJUb4PUgO1ItYpuvx20IFerh9sQSXTg-Mx/s400/SAM_8329.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
So to get closer to that goal, first Black River lagoon (Grande
Riviere Noire) saw us dropping anchor a while later, and the calm and quiet
with the backdrop of the Black River Mountains was a very pleasing contrast
from Grand Baie and Port Louis.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVHiCqneBmO20-Kgic45ZuUDCy7bymNSYs8TBM5kxLvKqQmQOiKRcnVniQUX7eDV_2hM6h-kH10NUflbFFWVZaVBBHxng7bUR2j2EdNv5N2WmiTShsyQfL_qw90Plh4CQGCdm4Vk_qb9o/s1600/SAM_8694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVHiCqneBmO20-Kgic45ZuUDCy7bymNSYs8TBM5kxLvKqQmQOiKRcnVniQUX7eDV_2hM6h-kH10NUflbFFWVZaVBBHxng7bUR2j2EdNv5N2WmiTShsyQfL_qw90Plh4CQGCdm4Vk_qb9o/s400/SAM_8694.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTc7DtheFD0BBIx_b6-RVlAc7l1HR7kFx9fByCf0tkUCIS_PLDtnLfJuhMQ87vRd8L7nDZjH9v3dml01xhNaeAAjlmYTUs2QXAK6TsNU_Sqf8fF9TtzJdtrkSDzP9FM5zT8ZUHiHS1nQa9/s1600/SAM_8692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTc7DtheFD0BBIx_b6-RVlAc7l1HR7kFx9fByCf0tkUCIS_PLDtnLfJuhMQ87vRd8L7nDZjH9v3dml01xhNaeAAjlmYTUs2QXAK6TsNU_Sqf8fF9TtzJdtrkSDzP9FM5zT8ZUHiHS1nQa9/s400/SAM_8692.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Going fishing</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is not only the local fishermen going fishing: this is
the main base for big game fishing and marlin boats go out daily.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So now we had to get Ketoro from Black River to Ile aux
Benitiers, as we had promised ourselves! </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a reconnaissance trip with GPS,
fish finder, iPad, beer (this is becoming routine with us!!) we found that
there is a deep channel going in, and it was easy to get near to the island if
we followed our iPad track carefully.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqRVqsKjF_lQDrhVowhoHI3bQfA8_9vC-k9hF8RoDW50zgeqOBaNDlaJkNOwImOqYFpLLgGQ1MhvA4nG3DkPfIYoUQYxZE6cT8bfYcgHSoBymOqD9YBioa0J9Ems0buuG2HYVXurZBKgVR/s1600/SAM_8742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqRVqsKjF_lQDrhVowhoHI3bQfA8_9vC-k9hF8RoDW50zgeqOBaNDlaJkNOwImOqYFpLLgGQ1MhvA4nG3DkPfIYoUQYxZE6cT8bfYcgHSoBymOqD9YBioa0J9Ems0buuG2HYVXurZBKgVR/s400/SAM_8742.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Safely in the channel but very aware that the chart detail is about to end abruptly</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtGoMt47hzp4E24P5mT3zTcZMrp-Bpbr8WOfV6Qy3qZ1oimtqu5jBSsMh3s1greoKTMS_nTjO4osF-muEyfuaNgWq71KOsd2_aoVW28BGm1_PcoTJdx7n49PTpPRvN9cwDKIzVHDYCfs-u/s1600/photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtGoMt47hzp4E24P5mT3zTcZMrp-Bpbr8WOfV6Qy3qZ1oimtqu5jBSsMh3s1greoKTMS_nTjO4osF-muEyfuaNgWq71KOsd2_aoVW28BGm1_PcoTJdx7n49PTpPRvN9cwDKIzVHDYCfs-u/s400/photo.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Blue dot in the channel is us</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidVg5CnhEO5Jb7EItPwwpNn_kuN4fxEgSTB7jrMCgqPBCSqEqyNo83Nxpy0vikG2jgMAuIUnvYXf69AIH4tyzkUUjrtECHBwMaWHTIZeTK_3nXSe_yEBesGNUg0w_wYbYM61xkTdCebB_w/s1600/SAM_8760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidVg5CnhEO5Jb7EItPwwpNn_kuN4fxEgSTB7jrMCgqPBCSqEqyNo83Nxpy0vikG2jgMAuIUnvYXf69AIH4tyzkUUjrtECHBwMaWHTIZeTK_3nXSe_yEBesGNUg0w_wYbYM61xkTdCebB_w/s400/SAM_8760.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">View south from Ile aux Benitiers anchorage</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjis-HT9nzE5j3gXXoQah2tXYggaT7-VfUGM-vG_r1W5Q4yUjgCp_ElbPchyna-5nVKnZwI5eJk6p1KHPdQukY1QXK1fAvzoPilnHvjUHXO7tVJToxepnX_eaDpVcpmhHOxzXtJvO7e11Yy/s1600/SAM_8702.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjis-HT9nzE5j3gXXoQah2tXYggaT7-VfUGM-vG_r1W5Q4yUjgCp_ElbPchyna-5nVKnZwI5eJk6p1KHPdQukY1QXK1fAvzoPilnHvjUHXO7tVJToxepnX_eaDpVcpmhHOxzXtJvO7e11Yy/s400/SAM_8702.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Ile aux Benitiers island is flat and low and dry, but a good break from the boat.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9fLITkhFYPuf_YmRiw8heKy1ECkfPCTJCUWazGXTzA-nu7_pWgNUWoBdbS8McTC31SCBAFWn6lbdfL_tfRsVMKHrbwUmi01ZyGjgSeD1U5gYmmKIk-GFxMfOGQAMX7r09K8paVBNtA4On/s1600/SAM_8704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9fLITkhFYPuf_YmRiw8heKy1ECkfPCTJCUWazGXTzA-nu7_pWgNUWoBdbS8McTC31SCBAFWn6lbdfL_tfRsVMKHrbwUmi01ZyGjgSeD1U5gYmmKIk-GFxMfOGQAMX7r09K8paVBNtA4On/s400/SAM_8704.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were captive in this anchorage for many hours, however,
as gales came up and we did not dare take on the narrow, winding channel with
the forces of wind and waves waiting to make mischief.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leaving there finally, we sailed north up the west coast towards
Port Louis and Grand Baie again - beautiful, distant views of emerald sugar cane
fields at the base of the mountains.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcbgKvxnrdTLVQeUDO7tQ96fmB0amt5xZNX2KG0N-CK4b1Gnk-vkjYHKuntfFE8NQOxZtvzC3yg0gtfmfTYndgvGwDLrdayTSWIEc8YTg1wOT9wlaYMKKvyWa2ZxPYATwRRuKrvaTKGNnN/s1600/SAM_8644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcbgKvxnrdTLVQeUDO7tQ96fmB0amt5xZNX2KG0N-CK4b1Gnk-vkjYHKuntfFE8NQOxZtvzC3yg0gtfmfTYndgvGwDLrdayTSWIEc8YTg1wOT9wlaYMKKvyWa2ZxPYATwRRuKrvaTKGNnN/s400/SAM_8644.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Up close on land, the sugar cane was flowering…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpVuYe1hTNfG-zqtsBGVwpMu4sOQT0XsohuqpbpcgBG15vwXLZyHbHkTlJB6mc0OzVfp4On3BnyfpHQlKzas9rc5KSpFXlLjs0L1kkHhkIjOemwglmRSsslJVSlzWUGShsCG8Frp00LXui/s1600/SAM_8348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpVuYe1hTNfG-zqtsBGVwpMu4sOQT0XsohuqpbpcgBG15vwXLZyHbHkTlJB6mc0OzVfp4On3BnyfpHQlKzas9rc5KSpFXlLjs0L1kkHhkIjOemwglmRSsslJVSlzWUGShsCG8Frp00LXui/s400/SAM_8348.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After harvesting, the remaining plant material is evidently burned
at the power station and great clouds of black ash sweep over the island…. settling
mainly on all the white boats!!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Patrick and Sandy came to the boat for 5 days and experienced
rather grumpy, windy, thundery weather. But friends will always have fun
together, and happily they know us and the boat and the folly of fixed plans
when sailing. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So it was that one day, trying at least to fulfil our
promise of a trip to a nearby island, we experienced, in this order and in the
space of 40 minutes of leaving the Grand Baie anchorage: the water-maker died; the
predicted 16knot winds were actually a 35knot gale; the port engine overheated in
a cacophony of engine alarms as we approached the rocky island. We battled to hold course against wind and
current on one engine, but when it was quite obvious that the cliffs to leeward
had joined the conspiracy and were moving towards us, we were too close to try
to sail out of trouble and had to abuse the starboard engine in hard astern for
several long minutes to keep Ketoro off the rocks (or start up and really cook
the overheated port engine). <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In the subsequent discussion on whether to press on (after repairing the port engine) our friends understandably voted for drinks
back in Grand Baie, where we remained to contemplate the bloody water maker while
sending them off on the dinghy to explore ashore.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was clearly not a turquoise-water day, and they just
managed to scramble into a restaurant to sit out the rain-squall before
returning “home”! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVL4P-w87mnkVvuRA2skiy7zUhijFaXyAKxiFQ75FtgMivizU7meCzzsMdHSTJ_N6DS-kYQCkzgkAjBpXYXvth4LbWOVBKgiTIRPQoOjQhFGwWgozdZZePPIu40ytYYdhJ7YdOV-IA9Tz3/s1600/IMGP4411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVL4P-w87mnkVvuRA2skiy7zUhijFaXyAKxiFQ75FtgMivizU7meCzzsMdHSTJ_N6DS-kYQCkzgkAjBpXYXvth4LbWOVBKgiTIRPQoOjQhFGwWgozdZZePPIu40ytYYdhJ7YdOV-IA9Tz3/s400/IMGP4411.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Much of our entertainment comes from watching the fun
activities of tourists to the island. It is actually very easy to spy on others
when their activities are water-based and whizzing around our boat. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So we watch
the water skiers: the expert ones (very few) confidently slalom and jump the
wake with panache; the learners (frowning with fierce concentration, arse out,
shoulders forward) try not to fall. The learners fall. The learners flip,
tumble and shriek. The learners hit the decks. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And we watch the windsurfers: they all seem to be expert
here, and the colours are brilliant.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPvnMg9EIOYMQq8eRG69KY4C268C-mDvSXAKMyVIw8NKejUInGXF_uDt8w1yyCc4XLfFFkD8ycwXf0cS1BFeRrt51Lu_0lwVbNglVerFyUINDl4Qap_F83VML5xnMGti5aL7GuYdTxcdq/s1600/SAM_8789.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPvnMg9EIOYMQq8eRG69KY4C268C-mDvSXAKMyVIw8NKejUInGXF_uDt8w1yyCc4XLfFFkD8ycwXf0cS1BFeRrt51Lu_0lwVbNglVerFyUINDl4Qap_F83VML5xnMGti5aL7GuYdTxcdq/s400/SAM_8789.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And we watch the parasailors overheard. They generally
shriek initially and then become speechless – unfortunately we are too far to
see their expressions; awestruck, dumbstruck or rigid with fear? Sometimes they
too are novices and the winds are strong; this is a bad combination, but
handled well by the speedboat drivers: they go slowly. Sometimes the winds are
very strong and the boats go…. Well, slowly: backwards.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And the dinghy sailors usually get great and challenging winds
here, and this lot raced us into the bay…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg_GyBeFPHYORQ-lUoLom-luzMPiGXk6REOcXGqomqNm4-ZHQjPwz41zVEoQrMMJiqu3CzufQ-4UewlwjUc8NAHpXQHtjAhN7HYFPQHRSEIzI1lDA97wtsBlLBX8UKemD2V3KRZqyYbLU0/s1600/SAM_8813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg_GyBeFPHYORQ-lUoLom-luzMPiGXk6REOcXGqomqNm4-ZHQjPwz41zVEoQrMMJiqu3CzufQ-4UewlwjUc8NAHpXQHtjAhN7HYFPQHRSEIzI1lDA97wtsBlLBX8UKemD2V3KRZqyYbLU0/s400/SAM_8813.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And when the wind dies, they contemplate the horizon and wait
for the breeze!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzMkcTVHhBP61Pb2RFT87y7Z66mTXrw6XPtfJY7n1oHrO-imJXER3wqd7390r5ncqT4VUYkAxyx7xOiIK_0NzwaMiJuUk82q5m3mQcbHAgNulXrcCitv4ul8Uoo32ZgAtp36WOP5kuA4Kv/s1600/SAM_8812_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzMkcTVHhBP61Pb2RFT87y7Z66mTXrw6XPtfJY7n1oHrO-imJXER3wqd7390r5ncqT4VUYkAxyx7xOiIK_0NzwaMiJuUk82q5m3mQcbHAgNulXrcCitv4ul8Uoo32ZgAtp36WOP5kuA4Kv/s400/SAM_8812_2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then also, we watch the odd assortment of inflatable stuff
being dragged behind speedboats: bananas, armchairs, boards… always with lots
of shrieking.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Grande Riviere Noire provided a new twist: tiny jet-engined
rigid inflatable boats for hire… they move as a fleet with their own lead / security
boat. Watching from Ketoro: the powerful security boat goes out, stops ahead of
us, and with a variety of energetic hand signals tries to communicate to
testosterone-laden jet-boat drivers to spread out and remain behind him. Time
passes as we watch the drivers with their nonchalant lack of co-operation barge
around in their new-found toys. Eventually order is restored, the hapless
passengers’ white knuckle grips relax, and they race off to nowhere and back after
about 30 minutes. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheB1eNc089b3oXdsobuOqFbHHVWvuanVkqMZbIHTE4w2oGqQ3z_dP__lZ97kJ_2swWneAeFRQlkoKTqwFJHjrJYMLxNGfvUXMXuZH1xZtMFLkAjiNGiXDlAUrqNXrncmg9XWCbLPMhWeNu/s1600/SAM_8737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheB1eNc089b3oXdsobuOqFbHHVWvuanVkqMZbIHTE4w2oGqQ3z_dP__lZ97kJ_2swWneAeFRQlkoKTqwFJHjrJYMLxNGfvUXMXuZH1xZtMFLkAjiNGiXDlAUrqNXrncmg9XWCbLPMhWeNu/s400/SAM_8737.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Heading into Ile aux Benitiers channel, they appeared like a
line of skirmishers!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now that Sandy and Patrick have gone, what are we up to?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Preparing for more fun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
How?<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipCjpu2Fry2vHauWap3N45w7ut67j-m8kn3asWzbux4Q3nlF_ddwTD0E3VoKOyyfNV5vFnP59Joar3bLhkWMEhrDWYsddtidLdpc21Tj2JfQw9Fe43SXjMSTZH0kbVesDWBlZL4WeMn9Cq/s1600/SAM_8796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipCjpu2Fry2vHauWap3N45w7ut67j-m8kn3asWzbux4Q3nlF_ddwTD0E3VoKOyyfNV5vFnP59Joar3bLhkWMEhrDWYsddtidLdpc21Tj2JfQw9Fe43SXjMSTZH0kbVesDWBlZL4WeMn9Cq/s400/SAM_8796.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Irene finds prehensile toes are a boon working with baby netting in the wind!</i></td></tr>
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Baby net!</div>
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So this is what sunset looks like from behind the safety net. <o:p></o:p>Beautiful!</div>
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-63956275709348234222013-07-11T16:11:00.000+02:002013-07-11T16:11:12.419+02:00Mauritius: first month<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After a couple of weeks in enjoyable, rustic Rodrigues, we
moved on to Mauritius Island - Mauritius controls the islands of Rodrigues,
Agalega and St Brandon.</div>
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Port Louis harbour, the only port of entry and one of two Mauritian
harbours, looked like this as we entered. Beautiful mountains and waterfront
area, busy harbour: much of interest.<o:p></o:p><br />
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When the ship in front of us had finished its manoeuvres we
headed deep into the harbour to the customs and coast guard area to check in.
On the right are masts in the “marina” where we ended up after that was done.</div>
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The “marina” is really a small area at the Caudan Waterfront
that has facility to tie boats onto the concrete walls, and supplies power and
water (GREAT!). Unfortunately the wall was not designed to berth yachts, it
would seem: it has a concrete overhang that causes huge damage to berthed
yachts that move in the tides and swells and wakes from passing traffic.
However, with enough fenders and planks and tyres and ropes, a measure of
ingenuity, and constant watchfulness and adjustment the boat was left dirty but
unscathed!<o:p></o:p></div>
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The area is tiny, so boats need to raft up alongside one
other: here we are, tied to the wall, with a big catamaran tied onto us. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The problem with this situation (where the inside boat acts
as a large buffer between the outer one and the wall) is that the boats move
differently, straining the mooring ropes and cleats, and the people on the
outer boat need to clamber across the inner one every time they want to go
ashore. Also: every day, the rope tying our plank outside the fenders
(protecting the fenders from the rough concrete wall) was chafed through and
the plank was left hanging by one side only – imagine if the fenders or boat
had taken that beating!</div>
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However, we happily passed the time in Port Louis. Le Caudan
Waterfront feels a lot like (a tiny version of) Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront:
a working harbour, mountains, shopping and eating-places. It is only a short
walk from town, we made regular trips there: what contrasting experiences are
provided in this small city!<o:p></o:p><br />
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The main street is flanked by many bank buildings, some very
lovely (Mauritius is a busy financial centre) on the palm-lined route to the
old colonial parliament buildings where Queen Victoria’s statue stands.</div>
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Leave these neat, posh areas and the scene changes
dramatically: north of this is Chinatown and the old market area – mostly areas
of uncontrolled hawking and general bedlam!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Hawkers under “Hawking Not Allowed” sign</i></td></tr>
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However, the inside of the market is a real treat: a vast
old building with central columns rising high, the three levels cover fresh
produce, then local crafts then clothing at the top.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBGJUbitxu_k2XKQOsgaEh3roi-stX5XO4DUBWsXXU4WrUQnZEd4gKGLeScoXs5Sn5-OIXeLtyJoDwvnaPjILOGelaJasWZFH1VHg6VeROkQ5ME5J8vvmIBORRgyy-vievlMfzMykZ4Iz2/s1600/SAM_8298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBGJUbitxu_k2XKQOsgaEh3roi-stX5XO4DUBWsXXU4WrUQnZEd4gKGLeScoXs5Sn5-OIXeLtyJoDwvnaPjILOGelaJasWZFH1VHg6VeROkQ5ME5J8vvmIBORRgyy-vievlMfzMykZ4Iz2/s400/SAM_8298.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">The market interior from the craft level upstairs</i></td></tr>
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It is the ground floor that provides a massive sensory
experience: the large floor holds many stalls, all heaped with superb fresh produce;
stall-holders take great care to arrange and present their products beautifully
(no jumbles here: all in neat symmetrical piles); smells of incense and spices,
the general hubbub of noise punctuated by a cacophony of sellers shouting out
prices and advertising their wares (all in French or Creole). Wonderful place
to shop!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavbIH7j4Amq5p5Ku9pYqV2wuae9oc3LAVVhjfUSwqrdKONJSDfSamaBDluiKVLjM20pRdmu6gRUmxQf6wuvadRu5U_2PpKXKDiRyvUOv3DkbnvRWrxkAEYQrW3If67xRkghwAKoI02OYb/s1600/SAM_8295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavbIH7j4Amq5p5Ku9pYqV2wuae9oc3LAVVhjfUSwqrdKONJSDfSamaBDluiKVLjM20pRdmu6gRUmxQf6wuvadRu5U_2PpKXKDiRyvUOv3DkbnvRWrxkAEYQrW3If67xRkghwAKoI02OYb/s400/SAM_8295.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Rougaille is a Creole sauce: tasty, rich, tomato-based – <br />hence the plentiful ripe-tomato supplies!</i></td></tr>
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Elsewhere in the city are interesting sights:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1XiNuHW6oUsJl7QqxX0pCxxnaA7XU3Nbza62nUAzLFccrhDukv5tOPneGpLt1i3_wGxPZ_UTd6T1vlSLxnWn25T_6SzPsF3NuP8VHuyQqQfvKr0O44SYEaf6Je1tCo-dxUvNqCk3z-U6E/s1600/SAM_8372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1XiNuHW6oUsJl7QqxX0pCxxnaA7XU3Nbza62nUAzLFccrhDukv5tOPneGpLt1i3_wGxPZ_UTd6T1vlSLxnWn25T_6SzPsF3NuP8VHuyQqQfvKr0O44SYEaf6Je1tCo-dxUvNqCk3z-U6E/s400/SAM_8372.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Lovely Company Gardens with restful shade and piped music</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7DmO4JdnUpuksZSFIJO3mrLsomMAsT8D9BNOYkVDozGh2J-w9ZoF8ZFMkUkBH0IEfkifGW5uG2QsEU-HQBrg4Nu5H5oAUMAX7TjKtv5IOtwcvYbYDU8TqEWaUKNGugzUq7RaWuZ_FsrsF/s1600/SAM_8411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7DmO4JdnUpuksZSFIJO3mrLsomMAsT8D9BNOYkVDozGh2J-w9ZoF8ZFMkUkBH0IEfkifGW5uG2QsEU-HQBrg4Nu5H5oAUMAX7TjKtv5IOtwcvYbYDU8TqEWaUKNGugzUq7RaWuZ_FsrsF/s400/SAM_8411.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">A typical street scene outside the CBD has fruit sellers, peanut roasters <br />and all manner of retail</i></td></tr>
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Back to Le Caudan Waterfront Marina: our timing here could
not have been better: three Dutch Tall Ships (‘Tecla’, barque ‘Europa’ and ‘Oosterschelde’) are sailing around the
world, following historical old trade routes, and Mauritius was en route so
they tied up along the wall outside the marina.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Oosterschelde and Europa tied alongside Le Caudan wall</i></td></tr>
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Wow. These ships are
truly beautiful, and it was fascinating to go on board and see how they feel
and are put together. They have a small, permanent crew and take on paying novice
sailors for all their passages – as a working holiday this must be a great
experience!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Looking towards the city over perfectly flaked sails <br />– we watched them: its takes ages!</i></td></tr>
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Friends from Phuket – Jay Jay, Melisa, Megan and Hayley,
joined us at the marina for a week’s stay on Ketoro. After seeing the fun
sights of Port Louis including the low wall alongside Ketoro’s berth which
appeared to be the favoured spot for uninhibited young locals to make out with
passionate kissing and cuddling, it was time to move on.</div>
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We headed for Grand Baie. Exploring Mauritius’ shores by
boat is a challenge, as with so many Indian Ocean Islands. Mauritius is
surrounded by fringing reef that provides few channels to the shore and then,
once through the reef few areas that are deep enough to actually accommodate a
boat with a draft of more than a metre. What is worse, there is no pilotage
information available: you get your info wherever you can, and go slowly!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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However, Grand Baie in fact has an easy entry channel and as
a result is a favourite for the Mauritius boat-world. It is not a picturesque
bay, but it has other attractions: notably, it is calm and gentle (hardly even
rocks you to sleep!), and a great place to shop for provisions and eat out
(although, being touristy, expensive). We found particularly delicious local
food at La Rougaille Creole Restaurant, with spiced fruity rum made by the
owner… we took that bottle home!<b><o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6MyKREpV3IHad0d6e9_0hSeX1gaY8AHERNtKjToUSoamaQ3vYKzERbEsuiN5btwa85OGWxINcMoBubqXFtIz2js6Z1ecX-XJqJUoOidUaQvcTUCRONl-Uxt-sE9vreK1t0YYYSQTe8F6Q/s1600/SAM_8452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6MyKREpV3IHad0d6e9_0hSeX1gaY8AHERNtKjToUSoamaQ3vYKzERbEsuiN5btwa85OGWxINcMoBubqXFtIz2js6Z1ecX-XJqJUoOidUaQvcTUCRONl-Uxt-sE9vreK1t0YYYSQTe8F6Q/s400/SAM_8452.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Speaking of calm and gentle: what was I thinking!? This is
true for the nights… during the day, skiers, speedboats and day-trip catamarans
are always on the move and about once each day a speedboat driven by alcohol,
testosterone and an over-age adolescent almost careens into us. The local mosques
encourage wakefulness from 4am, while roosters and dogs are plentiful and are
set off by the call to prayer!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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This is also a base for diving, and Megan (10) has her PADI
Junior ticket: so off we went!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxUmk7Ya4opReaFXCocyBYMbeiN9gBnEH1WWvIQFwlyz-lfrMdkiWeR2GrALqn9j3Rll4s_ovzQTeC70oYX4ODMs8eSc8vr0WkOCMwpe9LOdMM2rnI88W7pmCvlZbDdGdaz8rXQlqmVkX7/s1600/G0060713_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxUmk7Ya4opReaFXCocyBYMbeiN9gBnEH1WWvIQFwlyz-lfrMdkiWeR2GrALqn9j3Rll4s_ovzQTeC70oYX4ODMs8eSc8vr0WkOCMwpe9LOdMM2rnI88W7pmCvlZbDdGdaz8rXQlqmVkX7/s400/G0060713_2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
From here we set off to an island a few miles to the north.
We had been told that it is deep around Gunner’s Quoin Island (Coin de Mire)
and that there were mooring buoys on which to tie up: there are many rocky
outcrops so anchoring is difficult.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgbJID4GNqa7t7UsWgv2vCaLCJksTP3idsdwQWfhlffrip6gJahRtqrDVcmwCYOctHy_hVRNfliQtmJlfV-JSVJvpjU2ZiX_iERVCxzx7hQf2kDkammgb6rU1dzibtfmN9Xnu24LztNxT/s1600/DSC_0435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgbJID4GNqa7t7UsWgv2vCaLCJksTP3idsdwQWfhlffrip6gJahRtqrDVcmwCYOctHy_hVRNfliQtmJlfV-JSVJvpjU2ZiX_iERVCxzx7hQf2kDkammgb6rU1dzibtfmN9Xnu24LztNxT/s400/DSC_0435.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Gunner’s Quoin Island (A quoin is a wedge used to elevate a cannon)</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
What beauty and solitude! The change from busy Port Louis
and Grand Baie was remarkable – birds and fish were our only companions, and
the only noise was waves crashing on the rocks.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYe2NWfkvocmrI-ehDUOP8aSGMh33ApyosZ3K8_FvAEPkgYScXlCkatwqp-LyLHHhXfH85msshuiayqE2klHuHV8G0PNPw1GHL6surMYJSkQfYBC9U3jv5zIE2m186VulX_dQsRq1zY_tY/s1600/DSC_0456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYe2NWfkvocmrI-ehDUOP8aSGMh33ApyosZ3K8_FvAEPkgYScXlCkatwqp-LyLHHhXfH85msshuiayqE2klHuHV8G0PNPw1GHL6surMYJSkQfYBC9U3jv5zIE2m186VulX_dQsRq1zY_tY/s400/DSC_0456.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The mooring buoys are fairly heart-stoppingly close to these
rocks; in fact one has a good view of them and even nesting birds! As we swung
on the mooring our view changed and we were never bored of the scene.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWmfTyHBQ2EXPAGfSc7bTwuUDfldzVrs8bHPr3Qxzuc_HVmX79j7tjhkmECSDIws8JipLQZCwFcSgV7VEDRuW8cgfAo1Yy8LikEwe92KW22GFvMfsS8vmxf3qSS67Qvr5j2Jtnyy9WxSIf/s1600/SAM_8628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWmfTyHBQ2EXPAGfSc7bTwuUDfldzVrs8bHPr3Qxzuc_HVmX79j7tjhkmECSDIws8JipLQZCwFcSgV7VEDRuW8cgfAo1Yy8LikEwe92KW22GFvMfsS8vmxf3qSS67Qvr5j2Jtnyy9WxSIf/s400/SAM_8628.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Looking across the boat to nearby rock-face</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, the hearts were challenged by an adrenaline rush
one morning when the view changed at an alarmingly rate - Ketoro had suddenly
spun around. We had come free of our mooring and were drifting onto the rocks.
Engines were on in a trice and we drove to secure another mooring, had a
soothing beer and contemplated the new situation.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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We had dived down the line of the first mooring as deep as
we could and it had looked okay – but could not get deep enough to get a close
look at the rope to chain junction at the base. So after the beer Rolf secured
us to our new base using a few additional lines, fitted two of our guests with
scuba gear and dispatched them to check the entire mooring. Only at this stage
could he smile as he regarded the Mauritian line, which had chafed through. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhalwmIMf06gFwomYBx8cenWWCTcFiyVu_Wc3siPha0LiHd4ieYQjMcdfOF4Qy6kS1AevI2xwvrDeHQ00L6RXbjT-6NPVLv4PhIDd5ezyWyIavx-nc9yJoSB9-_qjMnKtszxntEibBkIVvn/s1600/SAM_8627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhalwmIMf06gFwomYBx8cenWWCTcFiyVu_Wc3siPha0LiHd4ieYQjMcdfOF4Qy6kS1AevI2xwvrDeHQ00L6RXbjT-6NPVLv4PhIDd5ezyWyIavx-nc9yJoSB9-_qjMnKtszxntEibBkIVvn/s400/SAM_8627.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
So we settled back again to drink in the local beverage (the
local Phoenix is actually most drinkable!) and the scenery and splendour,
enjoying our second day of quiet.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then the world descended on us in a flotilla of boats!
Evidently this island is a good stop-over for craft returning from their day
trips to the other islands up north, on their way home. Afternoons here are not
quiet! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Speedboats (four, with noisy beer-swilling passengers)
arrived to snorkel, climb the rocks, and, um, drink and party. Catamarans (two,
with noisy beer-swilling passengers and excellent / loud sound systems) did the
same. There were not enough moorings available. No worries: some tied onto the
other moorings, some tied onto Ketoro! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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So it was that our new mooring held Ketoro, a speedboat
hanging from our stern, and another party catamaran rafted onto us.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdgcrCnMsDGG8qFmwvuzDcbTTCCE1pR9n2z0op9AOYZLdxeBJvyTo-6oZK378-4ZY-E9try8TuG9kPUSHC7Cpi3d1Rc3GiOZRoDMuDI7UFl_O3UXKl5_PgkSpTXj728GrgJqukUrt5jyX9/s1600/SAM_8581_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdgcrCnMsDGG8qFmwvuzDcbTTCCE1pR9n2z0op9AOYZLdxeBJvyTo-6oZK378-4ZY-E9try8TuG9kPUSHC7Cpi3d1Rc3GiOZRoDMuDI7UFl_O3UXKl5_PgkSpTXj728GrgJqukUrt5jyX9/s400/SAM_8581_2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Enjoying the music from day-cat alongside, while another one departs</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The mooring held, and we partied. The crew on these boats
know how to cater to their guests…. and, it seems, neighbouring boats: they saw
our flag and dug out their Afrikaans music!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Eventually they left, the speedboats left, and we were left
to enjoy the bay on our own again.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7mnMXZELLjchwUqlzV8oLSFMETQa7EgMlfWs7PmhU2fRstNejZZRH2Sn_ISJkfGPSJt3jk2SJ120szrrMAGL0_Fl9Klu82715e5HiOx2Y5QPqhZq5FMra-7ZUjoveIJ0DD55sBlOelwR5/s1600/SAM_8629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7mnMXZELLjchwUqlzV8oLSFMETQa7EgMlfWs7PmhU2fRstNejZZRH2Sn_ISJkfGPSJt3jk2SJ120szrrMAGL0_Fl9Klu82715e5HiOx2Y5QPqhZq5FMra-7ZUjoveIJ0DD55sBlOelwR5/s400/SAM_8629.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Our guests have now gone, and we are relaxing into Mauritius
and trying to figure out how to get places. Particularly, we need to know how
to get Ketoro to an anchorage (if indeed there is an anchorage) off Merville
Beach, where the family will be staying in August.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Initial research by dinghy was conducted using a portable fish
finder (to measure depth), GPS, iPad (with Google earth map), writing
implements and Phoenix beer.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEEIEOaXXlGUjZqHS7tAop7hUBVm7bf8RSj2kMKXCwZHeJw3-SD-GyrC4OyT1opJLu-M-__OmFrGaaS8oJcYr5JWXm0i1xcOol8RPZXF__u70U_V9J9J1hy5ApTuf5OHJ-A_-gV302JQI/s1600/IMGP4384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEEIEOaXXlGUjZqHS7tAop7hUBVm7bf8RSj2kMKXCwZHeJw3-SD-GyrC4OyT1opJLu-M-__OmFrGaaS8oJcYr5JWXm0i1xcOol8RPZXF__u70U_V9J9J1hy5ApTuf5OHJ-A_-gV302JQI/s400/IMGP4384.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
We think we have now mapped out a route through the reef. It
all looks good – and we hope it is not just the beer talking!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
More of Mauritius explorations and other friends’ visits
next time…<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-81343394218038995312013-06-18T06:05:00.001+02:002013-06-18T06:05:27.378+02:00Rodrigues Island, a great stop<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tranquil, unstressed, friendly, welcoming... and easy to get lost! Rodrigues Island was a lovely, surprising
stop-over on the journey from Chagos to Mauritius.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWO5p8OrwZ7UPby2wWkcijJyK-xDDpDeAy-nO4sZZEwrawJdZWYAHTN4mBrO0rCM8GdFUEhWKu1GIqWIfSvSdC1KVOU0XnUNpHNNKZpBWzBMrqWUnroT2VtifidwQ7j6npAXhY6c77gtD8/s1600/SAM_7748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWO5p8OrwZ7UPby2wWkcijJyK-xDDpDeAy-nO4sZZEwrawJdZWYAHTN4mBrO0rCM8GdFUEhWKu1GIqWIfSvSdC1KVOU0XnUNpHNNKZpBWzBMrqWUnroT2VtifidwQ7j6npAXhY6c77gtD8/s400/SAM_7748.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">View from Ketoro in Rodrigues harbour: fishermen poling, as the tide drops</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Tiny, rugged, volcanic Rodrigues Island lies about 600km east
of Mauritius. Steep green sides reach down to tiny beaches; these and a few
small uninhabited islands are completely protected by a broad reef around the
island: the scenery is beautiful, rustic, peaceful.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-0lWCbInf4_Gb_nqSXAARK8y7bjIudsQms_KhFw45z6XETYlXkD9fw8mOz58DxnrzMNyEVi4N0aTXSc6-QfTvXK6ZMGXsHxAJXS8M7cjP5m9HpVPnyh_VvLg-y-Xx9a503LTBmZcWJxS6/s1600/SAM_7984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-0lWCbInf4_Gb_nqSXAARK8y7bjIudsQms_KhFw45z6XETYlXkD9fw8mOz58DxnrzMNyEVi4N0aTXSc6-QfTvXK6ZMGXsHxAJXS8M7cjP5m9HpVPnyh_VvLg-y-Xx9a503LTBmZcWJxS6/s400/SAM_7984.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXAx_21Q1HH3NPJTaqFRalLsR9msbh5R9M1q8-LwAprrdlflAz3TJHhTcMGZo4HRQvBeXACnuXZZVGGB3DskykYKuVdyNTBF3hOKgENOGWpIhoOeo1RuSY5-TWt92cYtWIcU9DdOad3egf/s1600/SAM_7691.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXAx_21Q1HH3NPJTaqFRalLsR9msbh5R9M1q8-LwAprrdlflAz3TJHhTcMGZo4HRQvBeXACnuXZZVGGB3DskykYKuVdyNTBF3hOKgENOGWpIhoOeo1RuSY5-TWt92cYtWIcU9DdOad3egf/s400/SAM_7691.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUpMLcq3LT6beN3C4J5yjyBht-3858AJE8IQc7E89SIZFadVg3vv0XCADFjBrAOd6jGwrRu_l0GMR1l_7LimuOC8tqMd_TIe8NSgtPRztW7x_rt7_2NeXq1tvXw1tlZAGigbx9B6q0a9Jp/s1600/SAM_7664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUpMLcq3LT6beN3C4J5yjyBht-3858AJE8IQc7E89SIZFadVg3vv0XCADFjBrAOd6jGwrRu_l0GMR1l_7LimuOC8tqMd_TIe8NSgtPRztW7x_rt7_2NeXq1tvXw1tlZAGigbx9B6q0a9Jp/s400/SAM_7664.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With this island geography, the Creole islanders (of mixed
African and French descent) have a difficult task feeding their population of
36000, but wherever they can the locals manage small market gardens,</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmke2wg_GPL2a_CDfEb9EcbFLDe9RoMQZsK3rF5YJ5rhOIBGIUjnIEP2U8sGw1UCPrX_EjO776TKTXLpx6cP3pDAi9Q8FeVEx4gM5aJLR64gw_z2qsAtKsx-H7bGzrydN_IMBphEaK7YCz/s1600/SAM_7675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmke2wg_GPL2a_CDfEb9EcbFLDe9RoMQZsK3rF5YJ5rhOIBGIUjnIEP2U8sGw1UCPrX_EjO776TKTXLpx6cP3pDAi9Q8FeVEx4gM5aJLR64gw_z2qsAtKsx-H7bGzrydN_IMBphEaK7YCz/s400/SAM_7675.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirwHxQ8nfRb3BmHwKRUp7c19xyW6vC_uuYQOKUvvoaRCcogg4R3ys4v4TCmB1msx4l0fszXg5VR-6pBNmgB0Y_LMmyG2Z28zHm38pirtQBajaBOBS4rUekJKzlxOqu0ez23lO3PDRZ3gYP/s1600/SAM_8030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirwHxQ8nfRb3BmHwKRUp7c19xyW6vC_uuYQOKUvvoaRCcogg4R3ys4v4TCmB1msx4l0fszXg5VR-6pBNmgB0Y_LMmyG2Z28zHm38pirtQBajaBOBS4rUekJKzlxOqu0ez23lO3PDRZ3gYP/s400/SAM_8030.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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tend their cattle and
goats, and catch fish.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijekNrogTeT7TJYzhMTOL5XDx3gPLSo6s3IIwKKMBAG4yBDlt8LI8kbUlEDYELjHdiVsR2fnVkVkbo59Eu2CpCTLy7PtzPIFbo4BXcmf0FUjFwMXXSJuD6qmVSIoS0OUACKN1PrSu62z5g/s1600/SAM_7621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijekNrogTeT7TJYzhMTOL5XDx3gPLSo6s3IIwKKMBAG4yBDlt8LI8kbUlEDYELjHdiVsR2fnVkVkbo59Eu2CpCTLy7PtzPIFbo4BXcmf0FUjFwMXXSJuD6qmVSIoS0OUACKN1PrSu62z5g/s400/SAM_7621.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fishing Rodrigues style: low-tide walking and poling</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizf17C5tlRws5bqgVEVp_iK8Jh119Elh3D1t0jgslYb57YrJCjvbMYs4KDZPz-To7bhqyf3RfzgBkxEfQ67bRbRkxD2SGDwLUS_LS5qnsO-CBGtxAAIiLqDI6rB16yrEJfo2yGRnEKdEll/s1600/SAM_7926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizf17C5tlRws5bqgVEVp_iK8Jh119Elh3D1t0jgslYb57YrJCjvbMYs4KDZPz-To7bhqyf3RfzgBkxEfQ67bRbRkxD2SGDwLUS_LS5qnsO-CBGtxAAIiLqDI6rB16yrEJfo2yGRnEKdEll/s400/SAM_7926.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pirogues are poled out of harbour at low tide; masts and sails will be raised further out</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpqvB3jbobnQ0UolEDH8kzt9zXw5iqS0eF9eQ5uE07c2hdCxZIY8JLhNWeKHtXOHWy9dn5jpOh_M-7dYuxrrFmWtBjeSDzp62upiH3LMFvM140pWtiK4_4ivBGOSnlfyWnwpUPYunSQQ7D/s1600/SAM_7637.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpqvB3jbobnQ0UolEDH8kzt9zXw5iqS0eF9eQ5uE07c2hdCxZIY8JLhNWeKHtXOHWy9dn5jpOh_M-7dYuxrrFmWtBjeSDzp62upiH3LMFvM140pWtiK4_4ivBGOSnlfyWnwpUPYunSQQ7D/s400/SAM_7637.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Pirogues on their way to fishing grounds</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOCMRzgZDN_3BdylJKq9sDnfAAUBNtghFwGJvctm4Ij4HcnqcmTK9wjJBe-wlNdV2e5fzp9xss8WYWysgT1S7aHPMuvb1vbkhwC6F-HtIdt6VudYXeT62daBNzloEscu4fdyUdwuYhYtNa/s1600/SAM_7590.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOCMRzgZDN_3BdylJKq9sDnfAAUBNtghFwGJvctm4Ij4HcnqcmTK9wjJBe-wlNdV2e5fzp9xss8WYWysgT1S7aHPMuvb1vbkhwC6F-HtIdt6VudYXeT62daBNzloEscu4fdyUdwuYhYtNa/s400/SAM_7590.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Low tide on the reef: anchor not working very hard here!</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-a2vJgdx4rl1dkusITwqKcl3_CwEml61Dg5zdiPZV9nJ829I_LLoqVYl4imtOzcYRuKMTb-xAD2i1Yzbkcc1mTxITImdulh92smbHnJ10rVzjNuSYUQ8re6j9pRcePOsMZdaOMR2iNKYY/s1600/SAM_7635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-a2vJgdx4rl1dkusITwqKcl3_CwEml61Dg5zdiPZV9nJ829I_LLoqVYl4imtOzcYRuKMTb-xAD2i1Yzbkcc1mTxITImdulh92smbHnJ10rVzjNuSYUQ8re6j9pRcePOsMZdaOMR2iNKYY/s400/SAM_7635.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Drying octopus to preserve it</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The island has a small but successful honey industry. Many islanders
cannot travel easily, either due to being physically disabled or due to the
location of their small home in the most rugged parts of the island. To assist
these people with getting an income, in early 1990 a project on teaching
bee-keeping and honey collection was
begun, and Rodriguan organic honey has since become renowned.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFDDYiEPXE3cx8h7z_4tkP6UDVjr3K7elE-ZwL_KkZvvIZbZLSM0n59jeoMXetB5S1o1w62rog7tT6SRoHbWeZ83WCd2kQSqBXNHIDTY_ZgckUGKUCeOpDj2zKF7M56x0cszYK3AGtPYkv/s1600/SAM_8082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFDDYiEPXE3cx8h7z_4tkP6UDVjr3K7elE-ZwL_KkZvvIZbZLSM0n59jeoMXetB5S1o1w62rog7tT6SRoHbWeZ83WCd2kQSqBXNHIDTY_ZgckUGKUCeOpDj2zKF7M56x0cszYK3AGtPYkv/s400/SAM_8082.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Local specialties: organic honey and achars flavoured with ginger or crystallized lemon</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rodrigues is an autonomous outer island of Mauritius; it
used to be the tenth District of Mauritius, but gained autonomous status in
2002 and is governed by the Rodrigues Regional Assembly. However, Rodrigues essentially relies on
Mauritius for all its supplies and the weekly supply ship Mauritius Pride carries
passengers and an amazing range of cargo to sustain life on the island.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPalvSve1P_ig2OuNlshyphenhyphendQiYTIBZZUd5WuYWGuWI2gHg2hrEUSFkswhAbgK4twplXnY5eptlCqUlqd6pNxfd1zGvGNfXUgZiQyTAOYP8eGtVo36MMwgEH_18RbObw5-VCNcN90oTKc9xT/s1600/SAM_7801.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPalvSve1P_ig2OuNlshyphenhyphendQiYTIBZZUd5WuYWGuWI2gHg2hrEUSFkswhAbgK4twplXnY5eptlCqUlqd6pNxfd1zGvGNfXUgZiQyTAOYP8eGtVo36MMwgEH_18RbObw5-VCNcN90oTKc9xT/s400/SAM_7801.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mauritius Pride seen from Ketoro: the ship fills the single wharf to which we were previously tied</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Since the harbour is small, all yachts (about 6 of us) had
to leave to allow the ship in, and then we were able to return into the basin
to anchor.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZH0036Arxh-dRbBjNkHnHmPSwVq42eSWQ8lTN4SjTipCDoGTgjwMVanoK8bm3xrjuGT2SxdT8KMgtz_xHTVh1A7RvNbrv1DTLiuP4L95gPk0gOjMwpO331bIX5IbULv4RVfXchiRQ_4sq/s1600/SAM_7861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZH0036Arxh-dRbBjNkHnHmPSwVq42eSWQ8lTN4SjTipCDoGTgjwMVanoK8bm3xrjuGT2SxdT8KMgtz_xHTVh1A7RvNbrv1DTLiuP4L95gPk0gOjMwpO331bIX5IbULv4RVfXchiRQ_4sq/s400/SAM_7861.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Early morning departure of the Mauritius Pride, accompanied by two local tugs</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is a population that prides itself on having little
stress; and indeed, several walks around the capital, Port Mathurin, (only
seven streets wide and easy to walk!) at various times of the day and days of
the week confirmed this – shutters are closed on an ad-hoc basis by the small
shops, and weekends and late afternoons offer few shopping hours. Strategy:
venture out mid-morning on weekdays to make the most of the colourful town and
people and enjoy the tiny interesting stores, market and craft shops.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72NbzQ4rcqD5Csa-ktWrWC_Gk-bszCXm7IEkLq3TY47s9DPC-vYsC4Z2nJfzvKqLOVq-8gOfN-K6ZybjBY0Hrh0Nvmhp00W3nyTKiBCe8yt2GMrkSOXzfffioipLPsVSrvsWX0Z5Ndf_r/s1600/SAM_7531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72NbzQ4rcqD5Csa-ktWrWC_Gk-bszCXm7IEkLq3TY47s9DPC-vYsC4Z2nJfzvKqLOVq-8gOfN-K6ZybjBY0Hrh0Nvmhp00W3nyTKiBCe8yt2GMrkSOXzfffioipLPsVSrvsWX0Z5Ndf_r/s400/SAM_7531.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Colourful , quaint Port Mathurin, Rodrigues</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU806_W_KNq0vQAGDNmA6dYPZbr5PO6hTbYVywCrwROAiF1cxUWtk3jQ1BVYCa_cpAvrbzhAqZBQrEywA_k8QT_ZOVxkv_8ljeIB9yKpFJSu8rEOBcoL1aVb8kOHWnTsHjeIv0smfrAKXa/s1600/IMGP4339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU806_W_KNq0vQAGDNmA6dYPZbr5PO6hTbYVywCrwROAiF1cxUWtk3jQ1BVYCa_cpAvrbzhAqZBQrEywA_k8QT_ZOVxkv_8ljeIB9yKpFJSu8rEOBcoL1aVb8kOHWnTsHjeIv0smfrAKXa/s400/IMGP4339.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge6Tn9ohqoGedUY3MrRvEl1H6ZAoCeENYYY_eIarPt6lIpd0dYKfu2iEz9Jg0EXzOJTSCXdidCVE7zTSoYJ5qJ1xF9VMBfkqgYwerdEc9NliuuQ1VGEDfXPEvbAHQiH5VoRxwYVHh1tSuz/s1600/SAM_7774.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge6Tn9ohqoGedUY3MrRvEl1H6ZAoCeENYYY_eIarPt6lIpd0dYKfu2iEz9Jg0EXzOJTSCXdidCVE7zTSoYJ5qJ1xF9VMBfkqgYwerdEc9NliuuQ1VGEDfXPEvbAHQiH5VoRxwYVHh1tSuz/s400/SAM_7774.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHsBiN6KwFVqSFEnx4ZJ9U8p7q6rC3QEGPsd5fEE9LeMWQJzVZZ1ZaSRV8MsZusqdr-BvGPXKl18oSQ5axNGtRKz2AZyZHZ8LyqGWbQfdlaehiDIgf5rOX5TRzVl2E4XM9AKfPaOcEUL8/s1600/SAM_7548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHsBiN6KwFVqSFEnx4ZJ9U8p7q6rC3QEGPsd5fEE9LeMWQJzVZZ1ZaSRV8MsZusqdr-BvGPXKl18oSQ5axNGtRKz2AZyZHZ8LyqGWbQfdlaehiDIgf5rOX5TRzVl2E4XM9AKfPaOcEUL8/s400/SAM_7548.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mobile fuel station</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Local Rodriguans are really friendly and welcoming. This
starts with the officials on first arrival and clearing in and continues through
all contacts until you leave, with people going out of their way to assist
visitors.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We fully appreciated this helpful hospitality - on several
occasions we found ourselves exploring the island, getting lost, and an
approach to the nearest local person resulted in their giving up a few hours of
their day to see us on our way.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Possibly it was Irene’s pitiful French and the listener’s
exasperation, or simply to ensure we did not stay, but most likely it was motivated
by a wish that the tourist not come to harm and do find their way home whilst
still experiencing and seeing the best of the island. Certainly we believe this
to be the case in our fun explorations on at least three occasions; the
pictures highlight the beautiful terrain and the kind “tour guides” …<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizXt7nx7wr5qzP_56vok3cIYjScdWr9w17NujtP9x1we4ePN7dTzE2BtCQJwRT6C-gcLamukdLaqE9-fDcsJu3CSleaUqeGRJTYHC3wG0hpry07FowUR_WCy6bODUYQry3h1gVg-H0Pz4N/s1600/SAM_7882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizXt7nx7wr5qzP_56vok3cIYjScdWr9w17NujtP9x1we4ePN7dTzE2BtCQJwRT6C-gcLamukdLaqE9-fDcsJu3CSleaUqeGRJTYHC3wG0hpry07FowUR_WCy6bODUYQry3h1gVg-H0Pz4N/s400/SAM_7882.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Rolf is made to walk to the cross on the hill…</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUEUKdOjdg-fcg7kF-Aa1qZOpUqCYCnYQYBaH6a5W-QM1Ot5ZbydUqkH3YErnmIGufNHkYxpcZMxmplWcRiMv2VfzEI9Sh79JLvzvDMGNatancgmI00wx9Bqgne82n3kDhlcQlMf9UB0J3/s1600/SAM_7901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUEUKdOjdg-fcg7kF-Aa1qZOpUqCYCnYQYBaH6a5W-QM1Ot5ZbydUqkH3YErnmIGufNHkYxpcZMxmplWcRiMv2VfzEI9Sh79JLvzvDMGNatancgmI00wx9Bqgne82n3kDhlcQlMf9UB0J3/s400/SAM_7901.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">View of Port Mathurin from the top of the hill</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
How to go down the quick way, and not retrace our steps? Local
knowledge is everything …</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0STkeZ3mpCB9x17pj1lYAQIYHv5dtW1Jpg6F91f9q3NV_wfBdeqNi5wLevjDIVzDL0dEc68eaujvu-EmKkcuOzwgBMiw0hzAwbAreBfESM4I3vj_8eGb5HsJUCZhWl52g7VNv99DNdtq3/s1600/SAM_7910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0STkeZ3mpCB9x17pj1lYAQIYHv5dtW1Jpg6F91f9q3NV_wfBdeqNi5wLevjDIVzDL0dEc68eaujvu-EmKkcuOzwgBMiw0hzAwbAreBfESM4I3vj_8eGb5HsJUCZhWl52g7VNv99DNdtq3/s400/SAM_7910.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">We get lost on our return and are shown the local way down<br /> by a kind man who was tending his bean patch</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were guided down the steep paths through the back gardens
of the villagers, and in one case we went into a man’s home by the back door, through
his kitchen and bedroom, and made our exit via the lounge front door! This was
the only way down the steep hill. The homeowner was most obliging, it was all
rather festive, our guide had a good laugh with us then left us, to return to
his small farm way at the top of the hill.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHNZEHQPxvXQptjAbOsLgxPHDWUD3XDRHnfysj3wFqTWSg8pe_twpQ3s-L_tqGf6khrxhyphenhyphenZwIBBhIO9FTkXJLQxOE3gIRBXyO7frv6KitTLU4mkg3UFifzvfRXvjJFsZP5wvZnjO7bwbg_/s1600/SAM_7912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHNZEHQPxvXQptjAbOsLgxPHDWUD3XDRHnfysj3wFqTWSg8pe_twpQ3s-L_tqGf6khrxhyphenhyphenZwIBBhIO9FTkXJLQxOE3gIRBXyO7frv6KitTLU4mkg3UFifzvfRXvjJFsZP5wvZnjO7bwbg_/s400/SAM_7912.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Farewell, and thanks for the help!</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Another day, we set of on a walk to see Trou D’Argent, a
famous tiny hidden treasure beach.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn83yamdOz4PwHuShicVbK6mOmVKks220FORyEe56Dg-95-ZQNQHigf-sWsEQf3hoiIHU0IoAzP0koBrDcVqLorhIJm_eFffyZmUnFeJLUM1dlc4xNYA_z9EKdTVRKUH11FPHvSdjDhrxd/s1600/SAM_8025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn83yamdOz4PwHuShicVbK6mOmVKks220FORyEe56Dg-95-ZQNQHigf-sWsEQf3hoiIHU0IoAzP0koBrDcVqLorhIJm_eFffyZmUnFeJLUM1dlc4xNYA_z9EKdTVRKUH11FPHvSdjDhrxd/s400/SAM_8025.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Very lovely… but we are not yet aware that the bus driver <br />had dropped us off at the wrong place and we are lost</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</i></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJkb-geatdqUTTMNDUmYj3vaAHOcXklwjv7FnWvc0rq4GJBH_Ostf09i2G_0j2PJ41pk7469qbCdUMVeWPXDNQ5TkUs_GifMm_r3R_e754GxizPMhicSgCkcIH9pMcd9T7-kYRgAAGI7N/s1600/SAM_8033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJkb-geatdqUTTMNDUmYj3vaAHOcXklwjv7FnWvc0rq4GJBH_Ostf09i2G_0j2PJ41pk7469qbCdUMVeWPXDNQ5TkUs_GifMm_r3R_e754GxizPMhicSgCkcIH9pMcd9T7-kYRgAAGI7N/s400/SAM_8033.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Claude, on his way to collect his goat herd, <br />takes us in hand to ensure we find Trou D’Argent</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0eB7Y3RyrG-sH3uP0-FLOyLTpONvLDauuYe2VP2MPTensTh1qIAELTVwA7ZQVIYkesk3RP3FaSa3XB-KtlgonDRBw-00ouO4QccX-Wa7_j_yrwoN7TUXDbJ36trLojyfwN0g4VQKOvYkP/s1600/SAM_8046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0eB7Y3RyrG-sH3uP0-FLOyLTpONvLDauuYe2VP2MPTensTh1qIAELTVwA7ZQVIYkesk3RP3FaSa3XB-KtlgonDRBw-00ouO4QccX-Wa7_j_yrwoN7TUXDbJ36trLojyfwN0g4VQKOvYkP/s400/SAM_8046.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Beautiful Trou D’Argent, an old pirate treasure hide-out?</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDf9-lyKlWh-6XkDfZIaKL8PlPXnTGNzhhVE2yiFjLSfXS9Nh-lVtAAZCDcqjQvBO243CcBSGtdxbIp7QDn2uOi6c3OOmxHnQs9-QUlI4091i-TilMqb-BTUNz9Nnjsx3uCGMzqYYk1tQ6/s1600/SAM_8061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDf9-lyKlWh-6XkDfZIaKL8PlPXnTGNzhhVE2yiFjLSfXS9Nh-lVtAAZCDcqjQvBO243CcBSGtdxbIp7QDn2uOi6c3OOmxHnQs9-QUlI4091i-TilMqb-BTUNz9Nnjsx3uCGMzqYYk1tQ6/s400/SAM_8061.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Claude only let us continue on our own after about an hour, <br />when we could (surely?) not again get lost – and returned to herd his goats</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Another day, another story: Caverne Patate is a cave beneath
a coral plain. Arriving here by motorbike after the staff had gone (but not
after closing time!) we met a young man collecting leaves for his (apparently
fussy) goats. Fortunately there is unofficial cave access away from the formal
enclosure, and with a private guide… well, who needs opening hours?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4odFENowf0v4sQud4w5G5z-nDN54cBEd4xAWzccnocT_o7LFs9mF8FUbBjcXW0PDIlbMvQKP2HB6x3-tzZpYIIwbnsgfITR8_DTXXCsJklQmbmkAwwfk49IaYDabEG4TB01NV2m-Hcr_C/s1600/SAM_7712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4odFENowf0v4sQud4w5G5z-nDN54cBEd4xAWzccnocT_o7LFs9mF8FUbBjcXW0PDIlbMvQKP2HB6x3-tzZpYIIwbnsgfITR8_DTXXCsJklQmbmkAwwfk49IaYDabEG4TB01NV2m-Hcr_C/s400/SAM_7712.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Scramble through here to enter Caverne Patate</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The pride of Rodriguans in their autonomous status and their
welcoming community is evident in their urging us to stay longer rather than
move on to Mauritius… which they assure us will not be as much fun!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJiXp4IJhwe7cZRhbAray1-8WFhVi7BHO5LCvdSNyJUTnFeE1xKr3qxI9tmFiJef2Wm_vH7ViCwj5myzkrnHsElBCHYXxRIvwVKhsBgk4EREF9HUIiaaIEH0IUCgTS83mIDpfnEr0Rpt5K/s1600/SAM_7580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJiXp4IJhwe7cZRhbAray1-8WFhVi7BHO5LCvdSNyJUTnFeE1xKr3qxI9tmFiJef2Wm_vH7ViCwj5myzkrnHsElBCHYXxRIvwVKhsBgk4EREF9HUIiaaIEH0IUCgTS83mIDpfnEr0Rpt5K/s400/SAM_7580.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Saying farewell to this concrete wall and aeroplane tyre tie-up <br />was the only easy thing about leaving Rodrigues</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgruVW4jArJmVfPpTYpqx4YSE9z8C_m4LSBD9LDs8JmRqsG3VYRB5kc3eCKmizBWauhIotafYa0mWpx8RfQBc1jLrtF8q279aoLzCVMsuLeLlqnuVjiFhBcye84fQSwkldXM0u0u9tuxFpx/s1600/SAM_7725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgruVW4jArJmVfPpTYpqx4YSE9z8C_m4LSBD9LDs8JmRqsG3VYRB5kc3eCKmizBWauhIotafYa0mWpx8RfQBc1jLrtF8q279aoLzCVMsuLeLlqnuVjiFhBcye84fQSwkldXM0u0u9tuxFpx/s400/SAM_7725.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ujp0WT4nn4XWOVfM-n6MRmvGdyOomE-AuusOUuhqzacjsT9sf0kASKjbUn00V9oPrcKbg6SZE-xVQF9jUHIjt-F9qBDyDwpLfhJm7I2SW9OsN-_lQ6omDOsTWY3n6Wo1CoGrk7OoYQ0U/s1600/SAM_7972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7ujp0WT4nn4XWOVfM-n6MRmvGdyOomE-AuusOUuhqzacjsT9sf0kASKjbUn00V9oPrcKbg6SZE-xVQF9jUHIjt-F9qBDyDwpLfhJm7I2SW9OsN-_lQ6omDOsTWY3n6Wo1CoGrk7OoYQ0U/s400/SAM_7972.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sunset from Ketoro: <br />walking on the reef at low tide to find fish and octopus</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-20811968243804087392013-06-05T14:55:00.002+02:002013-06-05T14:55:50.484+02:00Passage Journal – Chagos to Rodrigues<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is the
first time we are posting a “diary-style” account of a passage. It was a pretty
regular passage really, nothing extreme, and with a good spread of the usual
passage experiences. No, wait: it was exceptional in that there were NO
MECHANICAL BREAKDOWNS! We tell the tale to put down what we see and feel and hear
on a sea voyage, so friends on land can share and get a taste of it.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">With only two
on the boat, we become pretty tired: there is always one person on watch. Our
watches go (from 7am) 6 hours on – 6 hours off - 4 on – 4 off – 4 on, etc. so
we both have dawn and dusk and midnight turns. We try to be disciplined with
sleeping during our off-watch periods, but there always appear to be enough
chores of cooking, washing, fixing things, downloading weather gribs, helping
the on-watch with sail changes, and other adventures to fritter away the time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">Imagine being confined to a small space which is endlessly bouncing
about, but thankfully moving forward most of the time. This lively little space
commands you according to the watch schedule and yours days are a tedium of
endlessly being catapulted into (and around) the cockpit for watch duty, then tossed
into the galley then the cockpit… galley... and at some precious times you
miraculously find yourself briefly in the cabin. The cabin is like a cocoon:
very insulated from the weather and the noise and the more violent movement,
and you have little notion of what is happening outside – and you don’t even
need to care too much because the other person is on watch! Sometimes you just
want to stay… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">There is not a lot of shared time on a passage with only two crew. You
tend to wave to each other in passing; a quick smile and thanks (or grumble and
groan) as watch duties are changed. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">Here we go…<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Day 1</b>- 16
May 2013 <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilmc_yj901WkfD4tbmc38qshsiubpvl5w_8PCnhl_6pSu_ftFDBqQFJZnXuNbjiP7D-p_6iFDNWrpOSPC_HMb63_53PojDm5svrxm9iv_CTGGFLdx-fguKwjoFxLJUSDcSub2vrFP5x4qc/s1600/SAM_7341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilmc_yj901WkfD4tbmc38qshsiubpvl5w_8PCnhl_6pSu_ftFDBqQFJZnXuNbjiP7D-p_6iFDNWrpOSPC_HMb63_53PojDm5svrxm9iv_CTGGFLdx-fguKwjoFxLJUSDcSub2vrFP5x4qc/s400/SAM_7341.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-US">Farewell to friends and Chagos</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A
magnificent day, sunny, the gribs (weather charts) showed there would be
perfect winds for us, with a low pressure area moving away. At 10am the winds
were 15knots, WSW; we set off from calm, beautiful Chagos, knowing that we
could sail and make distance towards the east and south, and with swells of
only 2m it was easy.<br />
<br />
Rodrigues is approximately WSW from Chagos (about 215
deg.) and catamarans can find it difficult to hold that course when the
prevailing SE trade winds move to SSE, so we must get as much east as possible
whenever we get the opportunity.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MJDJ7yN5NTDB7A-LG_ZM4MD4A3TjNznYjPmklgIjb4YMYvX89YIrDaQedYmNl-GsStOBUuwzxwUhfJyMlq0Fo2cUDCCOiLOFL24ub6_XCRgFGozkH4gxG2B2iLV4iD9pK1yFL_QeL3cK/s1600/SAM_7461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MJDJ7yN5NTDB7A-LG_ZM4MD4A3TjNznYjPmklgIjb4YMYvX89YIrDaQedYmNl-GsStOBUuwzxwUhfJyMlq0Fo2cUDCCOiLOFL24ub6_XCRgFGozkH4gxG2B2iLV4iD9pK1yFL_QeL3cK/s400/SAM_7461.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-US">Track of our passage</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Day 2</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We appeared
to be within that low pressure area, which had rather inconveniently stopped
moving, so experienced confused winds from all directions, many small squalls …
and consequently the day was very busy with endless sail changes up/down,
in/out, repeat… and motors on alternately with sails. This was an
unsatisfactory day, and uncomfortable: swells were increasing in size as we
moved further south, and the tops of the swells carried confused waves
reflecting the varying winds. The crew was issued a ration of rum to maintain
morale.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">With worse
weather predicted we decided in the afternoon to take the “opportunity” on this
rolly sea to top up the fuel tank from spare jerry cans. A two-man operation on
the foredeck involving a delicate dance of balance-and-siphon,
balance-and-hold, balance-and-pour, clean up the spillage and mess.... During
this absorbing process, the wind comes up and changes direction, the boat does
an accidental gybe and the rain buckets down. Rolf: “<i>oops!</i>” So further fun had to
wait, the fuel cans were tied down and sails sorted. The wind increased for a
while and rain continued for hours. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Night plan:
reefed mainsail, full headsail – this sail can be managed by one person.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Day 3</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">3am,
Irene’s watch: winds changed direction and speed erratically, then a strong SE
picked up which soon and suddenly became a SW, about 30knots. Very hard rain
started. Headsail was changed and changed again during the watch; waves were over
4m; it was a miserably awful night – Rolf’s contribution when he came on watch was
“<i>What have you done to the weather?!”</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><i><br /></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The day had
started.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">This was
the day: NOISE. Slam bang whoosh crash waves crashing over the bows, waves
crashing over the sides, big splashes crashing over the cockpit, waves at the
base of the sugar scoop piling back onto the steps. WET. Sodden inside and out;
sodden towels, clothes, people, towels, clothes, sunglasses, seat. SALT.
Everywhere and everything crunching with salt-grime to the touch. ACTION. Pitch
forward into the hole, pitch back, rock roll sideways, wiggle, sweep, swoosh as
a wave catches the quarter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Rolf then
discovered a broken D-shackle on the boom that was supposed to hold the mainsail-sheet;
he climbed on the cockpit roof to replace it as the boom swung back and forth
over him whilst Ketoro continued to bounce along the waves. You could tell we
were on the same page as I endured visions of him sliding off the roof into the
wild ocean and he declined to wear a harness and was annoyed because his clean start-the-day
clothes ended up wet and covered with salt grime.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdxh3eR4UtKyRodxncNEyv9vKKBFLJqyKXe9YLHDdneI91WGuxDS8b9agtoP470JYnuVEB92gxGqkrdtlswEdcAy5YGMolws6bCeEpKbu5MKRbL2pBZC9Vc7KgCmcRbNFKXc83uZtjoerp/s1600/SAM_7365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdxh3eR4UtKyRodxncNEyv9vKKBFLJqyKXe9YLHDdneI91WGuxDS8b9agtoP470JYnuVEB92gxGqkrdtlswEdcAy5YGMolws6bCeEpKbu5MKRbL2pBZC9Vc7KgCmcRbNFKXc83uZtjoerp/s400/SAM_7365.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
The rest of
the day: winds 20knots, gusting 30: all reasonable for the place and the
season, but we did wish that they had not offered up quite so much fresh water (mostly
because we could not collect this as our rain-catching canvas was not up in
these conditions) and had left smoother seas.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Swells grew
to about 5m from the SE, on which were superimposed waves from the east and
north, as generated by the squalls. Waves built on waves: you thought you were
at the top of a swell but found to your dismay there was another phase, and
coming from a different angle, so it was straight up the base wave, sideways up
the next…. Did Ketoro have enough momentum to carry her over? Did we need seasick pills? Yes… and no respectively, happily! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Nose down
5m – up 5m. Up-down-roll-roll slither. We mastered the walk: the
knees-out-and-bent and wait-and-think-before-you-move, drunken-duck-waddle-hop,
look for handhold. It mostly worked. Forget any one of the details - it failed:
Rolf carrying a computer downstairs, missed his footing and the hand holding
the computer punched into the hinge of a locker. What resulted was a mild and
useful injury: a small meat-chunk was removed from his knuckle, enough to get
off washing dishes for several days. The computer is undamaged.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">Meals were served in deep bowls. <br />
Showers did not happen (<i>you</i> try
washing or drying your feet whilst doing the knees-out-and-bent and
wait-and-think-before-you-move, drunken-duck-waddle-hop, look for handhold.) <br />
Rolf did not shave, lest he slit his throat in the process.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">We were pleased to be holding direction about SSW, but it was really
uncomfortable and tempting to capitulate and turn more west, which would have
made it more comfortable… but may have put Rodrigues out of reach, meaning a wave
goodbye and heading straight for Mauritius!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Day 4</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">The flying fish did not like it either; it’s tough when you fly out of
the top of your wave and land up hitting a hard white plastic surface - to
which you stick. They all looked surprised… which they most likely were when
their adventure was abruptly ended.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF45fSnBsDiznSdRd-IM07WwIeR3FmDx-1MJVT3YXPffSd3dqtj37YMyUWPE4lfqCrTh8aiUWsx9SDbfUuyChuYspiSFK0mv6GNm4IgqPao_ALIuC0zALq6CfRvkV5J0a6maDc-t16hydR/s1600/SAM_7395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF45fSnBsDiznSdRd-IM07WwIeR3FmDx-1MJVT3YXPffSd3dqtj37YMyUWPE4lfqCrTh8aiUWsx9SDbfUuyChuYspiSFK0mv6GNm4IgqPao_ALIuC0zALq6CfRvkV5J0a6maDc-t16hydR/s400/SAM_7395.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
But not as surprised as Irene was on early watch 2am on day 4: black
night, wet, noisy, rollicking and boisterous; sitting on helm, concentrating
fiercely on the instrument panel when her bare foot came under attack from a sharp,
spiny wet and lively ‘thing’ which eventually flopped itself into submission on
the cockpit floor. Inspection shows that flying fish have spiky wings.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">Several poor tiny flying fish had probably not yet even learned to fly,
but were tossed onto the deck with the waves coming over the top, and there
they remained to be found on the morning sweep-and-clean. Another morning a
squid had joined the daily quota of dead fish on board, having suffered the
same fate. Its final revenge being the black ink stain it had shot over the
white deck, which we hope will, in due course, come off. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">After dawn on day 4 Irene woke to find the weather had cleared and Rolf
had opened up, cleaned house using fresh rainwater, and all was spruced! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">At 9am Rolf went to sleep with the sun shining in a blue sky leaving
full sail and one reef in the main. (<i>Rolf,
before you sleep, what plan for sudden storm? </i>Was never really answered and
discussed<i>)</i>… then the sky blackened,
the winds turned to NNE (25knots, some 30 gusts), the boat flew, Irene put a reef
in the headsail <i>(oh no, I should get
another reef in the main, but don’t want to wake Rolf)</i>: then it was over,
winds dropped to 18knots - sigh of relief. Bleary-eyed Rolf appeared – <i>What’s going on!? Where is the sun? Have you
screwed up the weather again? </i>Irene said, inter alia, <i>All is now well dear… Go back to sleep.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">But then it came: a big squall – only 35 knots, but consistent, and the
pressure had to be taken off the mainsail immediately, as an interim measure.
Centre the traveler to depower the main – and then it all went awry! The
autopilot took a while to adjust to the new sail configuration, the big seas
from aft quarter pushed the boat askew, a big gust caught the main and we
jibed, the headsail backed… we swiveled and before I knew it we were heading
back to Chagos! Sails flogging to add to the crash bang up down rain pelting
down… <i>ROLF!!! HELP ME!!! <o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">We were now bouncing and crashing through short-period waves of 5 to 6m
with tops breaking at different angles, and generally not really having fun. We
pulled in the headsail to be able to address the main, then the wind came from
directly behind us… Exasperated, we decided there was nothing for it but to
drop the mainsail entirely. We then discovered that under bare poles and no
engine we were still making 5knots and the autopilot was holding the course! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">Of course, it is not true that there was nothing for it or no
alternative: if we were real sailors we would have tacked and thundered on. But
we are not real sailors. We are cruisers who believe in comfort…. So the engines
went on at low revs and we retired to the saloon for coffee. Wet. Wet. Wet.
Cold. But the coffee was hot and good. It was only 11am and feeling like the
end of a long day!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">We dripped in the moist humid saloon and stared bleakly and balefully
out at the day, and as time passed it slowly dawned on us that the storm had
passed and perhaps it was safe to venture out. Fortified by coffee and other
essential substances we found we now had a downwind sail so the headsail was
unfurled (the sea too rough for the code zero / screecher), and the sea
remained big but became slightly more regular.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">That night: stars! Remarkable clarity, the clouds were gone … well, for
a while anyway.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Day 5</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">Morning rainbow, clouds dissipating, sea state improving, the sun out…
10 towels and assorted clothes were dried in the cockpit, some top hatches were
opened for air. On the port side the big indigo blue waves with white tops
rolled endlessly forward, crashing over the bow and deck, splashing up the
sides and cockpit.</span><br />
<br />
Lovely15-20 knot E winds allowed full sails up, but a reef was required later
as the wind strength increased and still later 2 reefs were put into both the
main and headsail for the night, so as not to further goad the weather gods who
were already marching some threatening skies towards us.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">The conservative reefing was a good thing as consistent 35 knot winds
came in, and the radar showed 3 storms heading for us, lining up 3 miles apart:
but we had good sailing and the autopilot held its own with wind and wave from
aft. The squalls brought torrential rains… but we had 10 newly dried towels
available to sort out the wet, wet, wet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Day 6</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">By morning the sea was slightly calmer but still big, and we had storms
that brought less water than before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">The morning’s damaged-body count showed humans: zero, flying fish: 2.
<br />One fish was found way forward in the cockpit (<i>heroic
effort but in the wrong direction?)</i> and the other: on the floor in the SB
heads.<i> What! How…!?? </i>In the SB heads
there is a shower cubicle with portlight (side window) which we had not closed
as the sea was pounding only port side. The flying fish took off from his wave,
flew through the narrow portlight, evidently swerved left to exit the shower
door, but then had his ambitions thwarted by slamming into the heads wall and
crashing to the floor. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">That day saw reasonable sailing with no major squalls… and the start of
a regular pattern of big ship traffic. We had seen shipping for a few days on
the AIS – it appears that this area sees traffic between South Africa and India
or the east, the latter entering the Malacca Straits from the top of Sumatra.
Our course at this stage was the same as (or reciprocal to) theirs, but
essentially we were taking the same line.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><b>Day 7</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">04:30 watch: Rolf (double-reefed mainsail, full headsail) saw a ships
AIS information and the CPA given (closest point of approach) was
uncomfortable; in addition he was unsure if they were able to see us or were receiving
our AIS signal, plus we were aligned to pass SB to SB (sailing rules are to
pass port to port, unless otherwise arranged). He called up the Maxan Gas
Corolis (a gas carrier heading for the “Far East”) on VHF and confirmed a SB /
SB pass. They both changed course to get a safer distance – this was more
difficult for the yacht, as it brought us closer into the wind, and increased
the boat speed and apparent wind speed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">And then the squall hit. To lessen the impact on the rigging Rolf would
have chosen to bear away, but that put him on line to cross the bows of the
ship and pass them to port: not the option as just agreed with them. He could
not alter sail – and the yacht was flying and crashing forward, still
accelerating under huge forces and not much control (of COURSE he should have
woken Irene to assist with a sail change!). So – he put the engines on and engaged
reverse to slow down and regain sanity. The port engine stalled under the
initial load but then restarted and when both had kicked in it was
extraordinary how effective the reversing propellers were to quickly calm the
tense situation, the ship passed by, the squall ended and normal sailing
resumed. Irene came up for watch – <i>Quiet
night?</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">The day brought slightly lessened winds but friends in a boat ahead of
us told of winds from the south, so we had to keep making south / SE as long as
we could. The waves were long, deep 3m swells from the south and short, sharp
1.5m waves superimposed from the SE, with a lot of wind-chop over all. At last
the current was in our favour. We had started to doubt that the Equatorial
Current ever flowed east to west! It was a wild ride: for some hours we averaged
7kn …. Slam bang crash splash… climbing the mountains under the pull of the
sail, at the top to either go straight down again or swivel on meeting a
sideways wave before descending.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">The ‘Diamond Jasmine’ passed to port and in most civil and courteous fashion
called on VHF to ask if all were well on board and wish us a good voyage. I
think our sharp course changes to clear this juggernaut by at least 1.5miles
must have looked odd to them!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiie73bhHl0v8aqQMQdYRTLwAFEhg2OevZ0BhZ5fOc6pIH2lZU7E-5z0gyVL_CWj7y92_LlGkZ_az2tBFogy1D3wMGCMTjbjIU7ikxKadpDjwtAZD6_m4y6yn2YQ9BTyIE4Hc9U5AnQ9eMF/s1600/SAM_7396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiie73bhHl0v8aqQMQdYRTLwAFEhg2OevZ0BhZ5fOc6pIH2lZU7E-5z0gyVL_CWj7y92_LlGkZ_az2tBFogy1D3wMGCMTjbjIU7ikxKadpDjwtAZD6_m4y6yn2YQ9BTyIE4Hc9U5AnQ9eMF/s400/SAM_7396.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Day 8</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-US">Sunrise day 8. SUNrise! <br />Rolly sea precludes getting the horizon straight… this is what we saw</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Heaven. Winds were down to 15kn ESE (those from the S did not
materialise for us); the sea was more calm and rollers from only one direction:
we sailed on a broad reach under blue sunny skies; there was shipping but far
away.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">We ate lunch off plates. This is a significant statement and deserves
its own paragraph.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">We did the washing and hung all in the cockpit (still did not trust the
weather). Celebrated dry clothes and towels.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxRACfcRGAUOMYlyDtpUmuKVhECJieBjSCiwfi5U42VYxBh6GvwGTupOA3s0RivH1PaL12IVWQv6S3ZATZX5QQINNBxHc7uhZ3IX71CaFobkRdDwmejSxdaoYWGIh20qV3kxuwH0_yhXg/s1600/SAM_7432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxRACfcRGAUOMYlyDtpUmuKVhECJieBjSCiwfi5U42VYxBh6GvwGTupOA3s0RivH1PaL12IVWQv6S3ZATZX5QQINNBxHc7uhZ3IX71CaFobkRdDwmejSxdaoYWGIh20qV3kxuwH0_yhXg/s400/SAM_7432.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-US"> </span>Rolf still did not shave… the sea wasn’t THAT smooth (and so, therefore,
nor was he!)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9e-ko7OzO6dZeO3S_sn2xpRjqd0Bn0_ePbXu9qYzkWU77sVPQlWmbwwjF0XRvyvqurg0v65TZ2miFy2IbkYNQuiao3RDgJ-XTHrW90y_BsusMJSdAqUguK2WmEkLOau4GGAXyGdSYSIR/s1600/SAM_7425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9e-ko7OzO6dZeO3S_sn2xpRjqd0Bn0_ePbXu9qYzkWU77sVPQlWmbwwjF0XRvyvqurg0v65TZ2miFy2IbkYNQuiao3RDgJ-XTHrW90y_BsusMJSdAqUguK2WmEkLOau4GGAXyGdSYSIR/s400/SAM_7425.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-US">Sunset day 8. What a day for sun!</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Days 9 and 10</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">Under a high pressure system, the seas calmed remarkably, winds
lightened and weather was enjoyable. The winds remained from east, meaning that
all of our fight to make S and E, expecting the SE and SSE trades to be our
main experience, was probably unnecessary as we now had a downwind sail to
Rodrigues. This meant it was slower than if we had had it on the beam or
quarter, but hey… it was slow and calm and lovely and an absolutely pleasurable
way to clean the boat up and get some rest before we came into Rodrigues. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
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The job was done, now it was time to enjoy our new “home”.</div>
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The friendly little tug came out to show us where to tie up against an
aeroplane tyre on the wharf...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-US">Tied to the wharf, Rodrigues – stationary at last!</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
and we already had an idea of how wonderfully welcoming the people of
this little island would be. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">Great anticipation and no looking back!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-US">Rodrigues sunset, first day – an introduction to this peaceful island</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-70784512978721479772013-06-01T06:07:00.002+02:002013-06-01T06:07:34.637+02:00This is Chagos<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
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Chagos is breathtaking.</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Beautiful islands, pristine soft white-sand beaches, good
visibility through a sparkling sea,</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrtzDOoFuS3spxg3RPj6pi0_YtskbquvLQv6oBLFT7vl8U-5_1EzuMFfuRpOL3FlKGPZT3ZMeIP-50qycnNcaVbq0cAt3h-ct61BANlqbPmuxFQWAanEudxlR3nnSsSC7TZ-3sx7UiO6tf/s1600/IMGP3807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrtzDOoFuS3spxg3RPj6pi0_YtskbquvLQv6oBLFT7vl8U-5_1EzuMFfuRpOL3FlKGPZT3ZMeIP-50qycnNcaVbq0cAt3h-ct61BANlqbPmuxFQWAanEudxlR3nnSsSC7TZ-3sx7UiO6tf/s400/IMGP3807.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Underwater garden</i></td></tr>
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… spectacular coral gardens, and nightly black skies showing off the stars to
their best, with zero ambient light to interfere.</div>
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The islands have much more vegetation than those of the
Maldives, with a variety of trees, bushes and shrubs that makes them greener
and much more lush-looking (coconut palm canopy, takamaka and banyan trees with
their groves on the islands, also bimini, breadfruit and old citrus trees) –
and also provide a haven for nesting sea-birds. <span style="color: red;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">White booby birds nesting</i></td></tr>
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Back to the beginning: our entry to Chagos (after a short
300 n.mile journey from Gan, Maldives), was heralded by flocks of sea-birds
that left their nests and their hunting to accompany the yacht - the booby
birds stupidly diving for our fishing lures, which were hastily pulled in!</div>
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Brown boobies also showed much interest in our billowing SA
and Chagos flags: the latter proudly showing Union Jack and coconut palm on
waves.</div>
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When the birds left us we saw dorsal fins approaching from
all sides – the dolphins had come to play! These incredible, sleek, fast, lithe
mammals shoot from bow to bow, weaving amongst one another and looking up at us
as if to ensure an audience. What an exceptional privilege and what a welcome
to Chagos!</div>
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Chagos is a British Indian Ocean Territory, and formalities
are conducted when the big red BIOT boat appears in the atoll.</div>
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The dinghy arrived with a BIOT fisheries officer to check
our permit, accompanied by several marines (one of the atolls - Diego Garcia -
is on loan to the Americans as their Indian Ocean air and naval base, and they
combine checks on yachties with various other chores and exercises). When we
were here in 2010 for a month, we did not get to see the BIOT guys, and were
glad of the visits this year.</div>
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So it was back to enjoying Chagos. Above the sea, this meant
beach walks and picnics to enjoy the birds, crabs, coconuts and general
environment.</div>
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The coconut crabs are incredible. Huge creatures (they can approach 1m), they climb
up the trees, cut a coconut down, bore a hole in it and eat… surrounded by
scores of small hermit crabs, waiting their turn.</div>
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It seems to be much easier for coconut crabs than us: even
with our axe (the machete is so rusted it could not cut butter), getting a
coconut to the drinking and eating stage was hard work…</div>
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And as for getting them off the tree: Rolf always looked for
the low-hanging fruit.</div>
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But then, on our 35<sup>th</sup> anniversary he said he has
always had success with the low-hanging fruit…. Hmmmm….!!</div>
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Often on the islands we were stopped in our tracks by remarkable
sights underwater alongside us: a large turtle rested in the water under the
shade of our beach picnic-tree, a big black shark cruised by in the shallows
along the shoreline... and there were always about 5 to 8 black-tip reef sharks
at the dinghy landing spot on one island, waiting to be fed scraps from
yachties who had been fishing. There were about 50 of them if you actually had
fish…<span style="color: red;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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We revelled in nature below the sea: coral gardens with a huge
variety of healthy, big coral structures, landscaped beautifully with the
smaller corals and soft corals.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr_2xVzqfk0eIdasSCUH_0RIKsdZbyA1u5YaulOVD5ENBKSCfz-4x6THJoZnXq951Ij6Abe6kQy4mm8-cE8jr0RDZsCK6nc9fKz6stsNdFFGQ-iNue9RXSmKQ_AtEFOYfXmNKojo2eBpo0/s1600/IMGP3520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr_2xVzqfk0eIdasSCUH_0RIKsdZbyA1u5YaulOVD5ENBKSCfz-4x6THJoZnXq951Ij6Abe6kQy4mm8-cE8jr0RDZsCK6nc9fKz6stsNdFFGQ-iNue9RXSmKQ_AtEFOYfXmNKojo2eBpo0/s400/IMGP3520.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Spot the turtle on the giant table-top corals</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIcw6kETmyRppAgRiqT1ZM5nDNdsk8lsDaMrTQJHLwB1Jlkdv9xY_BOH8rRrcfQH31MgCn3C2pkifZadpaT4J_iWxcfM816DLOa0FYpdG9HqtpHVduk4mEyMvR7kFzSsXcaRCj1EBUyCMq/s1600/IMGP3612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIcw6kETmyRppAgRiqT1ZM5nDNdsk8lsDaMrTQJHLwB1Jlkdv9xY_BOH8rRrcfQH31MgCn3C2pkifZadpaT4J_iWxcfM816DLOa0FYpdG9HqtpHVduk4mEyMvR7kFzSsXcaRCj1EBUyCMq/s400/IMGP3612.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Beautiful underwater landscaping</i></td></tr>
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There were areas that were like an aquarium; healthy turtles
appeared to fly past; fish that we were sure were bigger than the book said
they could be. And we always had our plastic truncheons / prodders to
discourage any overly curious shark… the black-tips in some areas were cautious
of us and in others were too used to yachties and thus too curious!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglmpEbp3NwIeA8JFyGIP-hJvVQbmNNQyo6L6aZHluP41GKCgUYNDYJwYv3EzFyM-TpO4yvpbfbgEi8JMwDhE8WsMMAG6ZjUq5WaaeqoCXEDYfLTMQIXv0FNPRkV_HXxg_en6gH79hSLPPf/s1600/IMGP3907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglmpEbp3NwIeA8JFyGIP-hJvVQbmNNQyo6L6aZHluP41GKCgUYNDYJwYv3EzFyM-TpO4yvpbfbgEi8JMwDhE8WsMMAG6ZjUq5WaaeqoCXEDYfLTMQIXv0FNPRkV_HXxg_en6gH79hSLPPf/s400/IMGP3907.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Rolf with truncheon… to fend off the fellow below, if he got overly curious!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie4XoGn_RsV3muWloZmfhRg5-0rQietRmGosbyctIx09Q0EKO-O910bk_SkUtVtk7lNeEMi8xKdp0gY_JND5Q62uYVtXh-hPjE8rR3jFBZCJa9dwxLuLd0FoHjlKD6LwVun_lA-1yS1ysN/s1600/IMGP4069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie4XoGn_RsV3muWloZmfhRg5-0rQietRmGosbyctIx09Q0EKO-O910bk_SkUtVtk7lNeEMi8xKdp0gY_JND5Q62uYVtXh-hPjE8rR3jFBZCJa9dwxLuLd0FoHjlKD6LwVun_lA-1yS1ysN/s400/IMGP4069.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
And then the special sightings – always too close for
comfort, i.e. less than 5m from us – a huge stingray that passed three times,
on the third pass stopping to check us
out; big feather-tail ray (longer than Rolf) with two sucker fish that swam
nonchalantly under us; the large, bulky black shark that appeared not to know I
was there and was approaching me head on;
only when it was a few metres away and I shook my clacker (to indicate
to Rolf that he should <i>DO something ....
please!? </i>Not sure what, though…) did it become aware of us and dived
steeply under us.<br />
<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Chagos archipelago has a very similar geographical
structure to that of the Maldives: atolls are ringed with reef and there are a few
passages through the reef to enter an atoll; islands are also often
reef-fringed. Sitting on your boat inside the atoll looking at beautiful, calm
beaches and placid shorelines, the associated sound-track seems wrong:
incessant pounding surf.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNj10rNNEqlnRQIyw9hit_IqXmN-AvGNhZsceJTtIPg-C0ITm6N1Jxxi3KKjCv9ZHd2n8PlLKYyrp_4pu4zzTjhd-TNufGI_Zl1TAbZyO73Uwv6Eli7ZVIH6AIiG1J67UP0nTDK9rLemaN/s1600/IMGP3835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNj10rNNEqlnRQIyw9hit_IqXmN-AvGNhZsceJTtIPg-C0ITm6N1Jxxi3KKjCv9ZHd2n8PlLKYyrp_4pu4zzTjhd-TNufGI_Zl1TAbZyO73Uwv6Eli7ZVIH6AIiG1J67UP0nTDK9rLemaN/s400/IMGP3835.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
But the sea pounds constantly on the outer reefs of the
atolls, and a walk (possible at low tide only) around the splendid islands
exposes another harder island scene: with fine beach on the inside of the
atoll, there is rough weathered rock on the ocean side.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvddHgFOtQ9chXBTgRVQDZUOLpIls0B0lG11UBOgv4HSoscOK2XYfMiBbCXlandOp12hLfT7jLS4ElvLtUvFuGMwSd2AB17uMADXzLvOVya8AYPGH20X9M_ZBYRnIaGBjmvxkx1D4q7wpT/s1600/IMGP4228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvddHgFOtQ9chXBTgRVQDZUOLpIls0B0lG11UBOgv4HSoscOK2XYfMiBbCXlandOp12hLfT7jLS4ElvLtUvFuGMwSd2AB17uMADXzLvOVya8AYPGH20X9M_ZBYRnIaGBjmvxkx1D4q7wpT/s400/IMGP4228.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Low-tide walk on the outer reef side of an island: weathered rock</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Within the atoll, coral bommies (coral outcrops) shoot up
from the depths making travel in anything but the best light definitely …. stupid,
if at all avoidable! Sailing within the atolls is challenging but crystal-clear
water in most areas allows bommies to be seen in good light, although predicting
the depth is impossible as the clarity is so good.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLq1bqHQey-wIkae08qhSaMHC1J_pvtPWNiFTjsIJ1d61EXVckTNG-Ekn4bwJs9Elv8Vs6Ldb_49oB57UEmg97il6Vbcx-Ug322L9u8LeTplf2X8z3RN7DB66HzaimbidK_L-kFyt6biO1/s1600/IMGP3895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLq1bqHQey-wIkae08qhSaMHC1J_pvtPWNiFTjsIJ1d61EXVckTNG-Ekn4bwJs9Elv8Vs6Ldb_49oB57UEmg97il6Vbcx-Ug322L9u8LeTplf2X8z3RN7DB66HzaimbidK_L-kFyt6biO1/s400/IMGP3895.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Coral bommie as seen in good light – easily avoidable. <br />Not seen at all if the light is bad.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In Chagos you need courage - to deal with any and all issues
(boats- and body-related) on your own, particularly in deciding on where to be
in certain weather conditions and where to anchor safely.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With this in mind - when we left the Madives, the invoice from
our agent included a cost for the item “Ancourage”: well, that was a strange (accidental? insightful?) slip - the view from our boat in Gan, the last anchorage of the Maldives shows
the reef awfully close by, and there was no more space to move in the
anchorage.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbUiRo3kC-yDnQMLTWHxTT5KXeigwh0xAE3bkOwMMVgKHBaEJ9KbjnR3tJEl7R1jA-k9jKHwo_mmfPotGALUvqBB1OOgINDgD5i_ChHFNsq1BymXtAGIf61jJ94d66lNmZ4Cy7mbVkeao/s1600/SAM_6869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbUiRo3kC-yDnQMLTWHxTT5KXeigwh0xAE3bkOwMMVgKHBaEJ9KbjnR3tJEl7R1jA-k9jKHwo_mmfPotGALUvqBB1OOgINDgD5i_ChHFNsq1BymXtAGIf61jJ94d66lNmZ4Cy7mbVkeao/s400/SAM_6869.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Intimidating reef close behind Ketoro in Gan, Maldives</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In Chagos too, very few easy anchoring options exist – the
pictures tell the tales of constant reminders to take care…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkwVPHRMhZdvgquNzhzR2v60JntMSTCKzcLkdtK0HBEZZPiryHfbH3fMlpAEruxk4NnEIK3hZye7jmFrLuY7_owRtKc4QqcIeqeyIjQ10KB1fEXMLQyjP04lO9udqzonu-qXvhzxrWtCdI/s1600/SAM_7202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkwVPHRMhZdvgquNzhzR2v60JntMSTCKzcLkdtK0HBEZZPiryHfbH3fMlpAEruxk4NnEIK3hZye7jmFrLuY7_owRtKc4QqcIeqeyIjQ10KB1fEXMLQyjP04lO9udqzonu-qXvhzxrWtCdI/s400/SAM_7202.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Boddam Island, Chagos: nearby reef so shallow that it dried at low tide</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEichCzNrPP2MSpd_4_q2KPYPYKnR2P2-G6Ie8iK1Z_e1NEcMd3b8-WgzTm-YBqaSN9lCbsvijH3aQwjgjk1W0t9QPIL4wPOgQ_Mtq7_TtNzyBUVcmvkgGoLB4JQQUfiSGotsoz6VDnW0gcm/s1600/IMGP4213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEichCzNrPP2MSpd_4_q2KPYPYKnR2P2-G6Ie8iK1Z_e1NEcMd3b8-WgzTm-YBqaSN9lCbsvijH3aQwjgjk1W0t9QPIL4wPOgQ_Mtq7_TtNzyBUVcmvkgGoLB4JQQUfiSGotsoz6VDnW0gcm/s400/IMGP4213.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">A yacht that evidently did not take enough care with anchoring: <br />dragged onto shore in a storm</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Previously used commercially for the copra industry, Chagos
is now mostly untouched and commercially unexploited. All that remains in this
marine reserve of man’s intervention (besides the wrecked yacht) are
fascinating, deteriorating reminders of that time (and an on-going court case
with claims against BIOT by the previous Chagosian people).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpQkcLVHndcRiwqocQX7drfMrzSEr46z4Lj8xhdhoYlIqhz37sXVBpWkThNfeyjRrVOrbZOOpPQEF8xNRZu3exnPX0P-6FZ50UQxAYfmkYJOeHbG1ea2szB9SC3YJ0uolOw9jjg3yiKHR/s1600/IMGP3379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpQkcLVHndcRiwqocQX7drfMrzSEr46z4Lj8xhdhoYlIqhz37sXVBpWkThNfeyjRrVOrbZOOpPQEF8xNRZu3exnPX0P-6FZ50UQxAYfmkYJOeHbG1ea2szB9SC3YJ0uolOw9jjg3yiKHR/s400/IMGP3379.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Remains of stately old plantation home</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlc0QV-rNmyNjrhzhleA5mq2FzUEK6VtwWFBMg-1pps4CLXeszJWRAj6WxNmGmiU5hMGMesjaCwCCGbiEToSV6oNgjNBsW9ieTJ1H0ujulCoHgyuxRy6TCN3MQw0CpDbuLFVGnAHjQeREZ/s1600/IMGP3387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlc0QV-rNmyNjrhzhleA5mq2FzUEK6VtwWFBMg-1pps4CLXeszJWRAj6WxNmGmiU5hMGMesjaCwCCGbiEToSV6oNgjNBsW9ieTJ1H0ujulCoHgyuxRy6TCN3MQw0CpDbuLFVGnAHjQeREZ/s400/IMGP3387.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Approach to old church area</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8xcq4u-bHrSxawJBqGf0mfT0J4zRHv4cs1p5qBMjowHBpy943ww3H8EMDaAnAAmefFhsQtUJbOjfb_sxFr1WwiGwOrstnbjk9nSb_xX2gYUkQXBa4fdq6kzU4Qi_kOnlQyivFbjomg9a/s1600/IMGP3473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8xcq4u-bHrSxawJBqGf0mfT0J4zRHv4cs1p5qBMjowHBpy943ww3H8EMDaAnAAmefFhsQtUJbOjfb_sxFr1WwiGwOrstnbjk9nSb_xX2gYUkQXBa4fdq6kzU4Qi_kOnlQyivFbjomg9a/s400/IMGP3473.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Chagosian cemetry – so many children too</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Chagos is remote, isolated, unreachable (except by private
boat) and rugged. It is far from
civilisation’s comforts and safety: sharks, rays, mechanical failures,
minor cuts and infections all can become major issues and threats. Happily, we
have never had any experiences that threatened us; this time, our biggest
problems were actually two minor ones:<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The generator broke down and only Irene could fit behind it
under the bunk to try to get a cover-plate off; with inappropriate tools, we
could not do it, so we made do without the generator (a job for Mauritius). <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnAjQJRxe2BeC_qET4dkhWkzPw8Iol4BfbxvQwwhcz3iZfGwpOLFMze-3rEkKtXwGgS1yDJIHfyXaOSzKaldBnXbh-5EPdmaZnOwtOYriAKcZE1aulhxV-0Y_aKsE1GEHoaoDI_P5Cdcbv/s1600/SAM_7238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnAjQJRxe2BeC_qET4dkhWkzPw8Iol4BfbxvQwwhcz3iZfGwpOLFMze-3rEkKtXwGgS1yDJIHfyXaOSzKaldBnXbh-5EPdmaZnOwtOYriAKcZE1aulhxV-0Y_aKsE1GEHoaoDI_P5Cdcbv/s400/SAM_7238.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Irene squeezes behind generator in a futile attempt to diagnose and fix</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The freezer stopped working – aaargh!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVVDYG4PgvY8GJn_IrN1ue4xssNJ6dRvDsgrVgDX5XduByQ493VegNR_iDwdac40W1eenIvvOMYGM6t86sVpURFlR3bRU3feqZceLtzCZxkQVKQDgAX8iDqaTpmIKaVjGfiA-5sN6Nf9cu/s1600/SAM_7079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVVDYG4PgvY8GJn_IrN1ue4xssNJ6dRvDsgrVgDX5XduByQ493VegNR_iDwdac40W1eenIvvOMYGM6t86sVpURFlR3bRU3feqZceLtzCZxkQVKQDgAX8iDqaTpmIKaVjGfiA-5sN6Nf9cu/s400/SAM_7079.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Freezer- surround frames a pitiful sight (Rolf and the non-functioning freezer!)</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
All carefully planned and provisioned meats from Thailand
and chicken from the Maldives defrosted; the outcome of this was 12 bottles of
boiled chicken pieces in an attempt to save some (horrible, but true….) and two
very well-fed Ketoro crew: never has so much pork (fillets/bacon/ham) been
eaten by so few in such a short time! Later, a kind yachtie lent us their spare
electronic controller for a freezer and we simply re-froze what was left
uneaten / unboiled. We are still well and there is more on the shopping list
for Mauritius: spare parts and more meat….<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Apart from taking care of oneself, when surrounded by such
beauty you take due care of the environment. There are strict rules for refuse treatment
and one island on each of the two atolls has bins and an incinerator for
plastic and paper. If not at those islands, you need to completely burn refuse
on a beach at low tide. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0rKiMHyZAKKdGw6hkNujOAygN1z17hBpr4zfablhvd4dYQHFs3n89eIO0lk9VGv-2nfnjq4ZZfyEhOfZrXE_dK-HG3V3StPO7HOm1oKLeqACGQwohXn3WQBiKWF7QN4pzF304LdKZS3rw/s1600/IMGP4290.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0rKiMHyZAKKdGw6hkNujOAygN1z17hBpr4zfablhvd4dYQHFs3n89eIO0lk9VGv-2nfnjq4ZZfyEhOfZrXE_dK-HG3V3StPO7HOm1oKLeqACGQwohXn3WQBiKWF7QN4pzF304LdKZS3rw/s400/IMGP4290.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Incredible surroundings for refuse disposal by burning</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Chagos is seductive, unforgiving, and potentially
threatening to the unwary. Deceptively gentle and beckoning, however it is a harsh
environment and requires visitors to take care. It is not frivolous: neither in its beauty nor its dangers. This
place is truly beautiful but it commands respect. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9qAoGyRvwnGJk_zvj3iH3IwrdTH6bkv7nzGrPKGsEfqIuP8dNQm7ZFM5Zdd77RkXI46LcV8ZgaTIxhoomudR-tvqly4QQOy0ZKvwboPrp_TH50mmd-WoRljykCex86bnko1hTJZYQnRr8/s1600/IMGP4244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9qAoGyRvwnGJk_zvj3iH3IwrdTH6bkv7nzGrPKGsEfqIuP8dNQm7ZFM5Zdd77RkXI46LcV8ZgaTIxhoomudR-tvqly4QQOy0ZKvwboPrp_TH50mmd-WoRljykCex86bnko1hTJZYQnRr8/s400/IMGP4244.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
It is good for the soul to know that such places exist, and
are being maintained with no commercialisation. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wjCbqXkAKpm-X_zOBVYBI2zNHHWmLlf3J56Xua8bS_1hxjtluwaFUgz4t3qobiZPXGaGsvKyqtikwLNDh8Gokp41rU_sayoYfJu4zOJQ3MeiU6BAhgbFGwRWSW71mRI6XZ_2YhlosXMd/s1600/IMGP5016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wjCbqXkAKpm-X_zOBVYBI2zNHHWmLlf3J56Xua8bS_1hxjtluwaFUgz4t3qobiZPXGaGsvKyqtikwLNDh8Gokp41rU_sayoYfJu4zOJQ3MeiU6BAhgbFGwRWSW71mRI6XZ_2YhlosXMd/s400/IMGP5016.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
This remarkable marine reserve cannot disappoint, neither
above nor below the waterline.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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Three years ago, Chagos was a stop for a month on our way
from SA to the east, and we were concerned that, after all the most wonderful sights
and experiences we have enjoyed in the intervening years, our memories and
expectations of this place were rose-tinted.</div>
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They were not. We
love it.<o:p></o:p><br />
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-69320180328177031762013-04-09T19:02:00.000+02:002013-04-09T19:02:20.340+02:00Maldives Month<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
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Almost up: a month in the Maldives. We
reminisce and say: wonderful – the Maldives' exceptional beauty, different
geography (and the fascinating way it functions as a result of that) make it a
great place to visit.Here is our month…</div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA">Male: capital city, vibrant, busy, noisy, colourful;
huge green trees left in place to shade busy streets and the myriad motorbikes
and pedestrians. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJTS1ZQCYdVkIrTBqR0URkRaEWvx_aDX7cTVlIn6uzuLW1DFH6-0FQj3hddMVqEumRkkT6iZwEGIQUavHukOVkMEfal7jdL0VNzx_8T4mPTKT_HTfcgEvmf8mXoiPS_8X6afndAPIa3OQt/s1600/SAM_6333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJTS1ZQCYdVkIrTBqR0URkRaEWvx_aDX7cTVlIn6uzuLW1DFH6-0FQj3hddMVqEumRkkT6iZwEGIQUavHukOVkMEfal7jdL0VNzx_8T4mPTKT_HTfcgEvmf8mXoiPS_8X6afndAPIa3OQt/s400/SAM_6333.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Rolf and Sandy exploring the congested city</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Almost everyone of working age in the
Maldives works in Male - but almost no-one lives here (no space). So they live
on other islands, particularly one artificial island which is the airport
island and dormitory for Male. Interestingly, this island (Hulhumale) is the
highest one in the Maldives: 3m above sea level, woohoo!! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_XPDLo0SuBula5bEiumHP8wk-N1GfV0sbQnMTWm3GGK8R7EJE7AojyNXEV69nE63io68Q_pa08KNwo2hEWnbD2mVEb9wtZKE1AVy9hvQEvBojoXbe2xwoKYLLTyxYOIP5xQHvi73I_L_B/s1600/SAM_6387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_XPDLo0SuBula5bEiumHP8wk-N1GfV0sbQnMTWm3GGK8R7EJE7AojyNXEV69nE63io68Q_pa08KNwo2hEWnbD2mVEb9wtZKE1AVy9hvQEvBojoXbe2xwoKYLLTyxYOIP5xQHvi73I_L_B/s400/SAM_6387.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Busy Male waterfront</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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Transport around the Maldives <a href="" name="_GoBack"></a>and between islands presents very different issues from most
other countries in the world… and it is incredibly efficient here. Ferries
(between islands and also between atolls) are frequent, cheap and huge,
carrying you and your bike. Taxis in Male are all a standard price, no
haggling.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjvZpK-X7qKbhw_vjZeZcbVuz58DDF_jgtkR6PJzdKIk1U7AkGhFHhAFP1wnf8v8o-fFsehrWPjbybh68bLc0AOJSxWLiAtmz7L_9R35c_gjN3lRfRfKewMDMrCpXQDMmi59hLR_XO2aXG/s1600/IMG_3683.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjvZpK-X7qKbhw_vjZeZcbVuz58DDF_jgtkR6PJzdKIk1U7AkGhFHhAFP1wnf8v8o-fFsehrWPjbybh68bLc0AOJSxWLiAtmz7L_9R35c_gjN3lRfRfKewMDMrCpXQDMmi59hLR_XO2aXG/s400/IMG_3683.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Motorbike on the ferry to Male</span></i></td></tr>
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We left Male and headed for Ari Atoll;Sandy
was still with us and we wanted to show her secluded anchorages and uninhabited
islands. These we did not find in this heavily-touristed atoll, but we stopped
at resorts on a few nights and got to know how tourism works here: a huge
money-generator in the Maldives (along with fishing). It goes like this: buy
your package trip, fly to Male, get a sea-plane to the resort island, live in
luxury and fly home.<i><span lang="EN-ZA"> </span></i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO6h06bUaVKIrWs223RTvAS2_hy5Wvxolpg3_Nxvigl1tReZx-7UeM8k7RAfKNVgmc6LffS1Cnv6zP4gmOL219pq5vMox86EgA01lUu_k0mN4Xwn1cO8WHqL6d7mEOt74QXgFgs_lOydVS/s1600/IMG_3840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO6h06bUaVKIrWs223RTvAS2_hy5Wvxolpg3_Nxvigl1tReZx-7UeM8k7RAfKNVgmc6LffS1Cnv6zP4gmOL219pq5vMox86EgA01lUu_k0mN4Xwn1cO8WHqL6d7mEOt74QXgFgs_lOydVS/s400/IMG_3840.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Luxurious break from home routine</i></td></tr>
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</span></i></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Pr8LGnAo1FTLogzb8hrIEisqZ_w9sWUB19AbJtXKIrDlDN3Oo-Q7yjvpA2XqrYg6hgeLe1xFQPN6Ub2k3XBy-NcTi-u8C1ejrT_ZpeOeO4VCzvOolrO_XYtB8zEAlU1JF84y7JMyq9MI/s1600/SAM_6437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Pr8LGnAo1FTLogzb8hrIEisqZ_w9sWUB19AbJtXKIrDlDN3Oo-Q7yjvpA2XqrYg6hgeLe1xFQPN6Ub2k3XBy-NcTi-u8C1ejrT_ZpeOeO4VCzvOolrO_XYtB8zEAlU1JF84y7JMyq9MI/s400/SAM_6437.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-ZA">The number of sea-planes made us think we were anchored at an airport sometimes!</span></i></td></tr>
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We enjoyed going on shore and also
snorkelling the resorts’ house reefs. While some resorts clearly do not want
yachts visiting (previous blog) many are welcoming.</div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA">Contemplating the issues confronting the GM
of the resorts was mind-boggling. Add to the regular resort considerations of
guest needs, the following difficulties of being placed on (and spilling over)
a tiny island base: fresh water, power,food supply, waste. Each resort deals
with these in the following way, on their own island: huge reverse osmosis
salt-water de-salinators; generators; fly food in from Australia and Europe
twice weekly; and …. Um…. waste?? The ?? stands, at the moment, for taking solid waste to the Male atoll waste
island, where it is burned. Waste is a problem in this country, and currently
under consideration is a plan to build a waste-island in the middle of a few atolls
where it will be dealt with. Sewage management is not mentioned and most
islands have pipes discharging into the sea – it all seems to be a matter of
dilution and with the present numbers of Maldivians and tourists, has no
adverse impact on sea life, clarity of water, etc. provided you keep your
distance from the effluent pipes.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA">Another plan for tourists: build a floating
golf resort! So, if watersports, marine-viewing, tennis and beaches are not
your thing, there is a novel attraction (not many rolling hills on this golf
course!)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA">Happily we did find a lovely anchorage at
the bottom of this atoll that was not resort-based so enjoyed more lovely
snorkelling with Sandy, beach walking and a trip through the village.</span> </div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3OP7WMW0EGE-6IOjijX4LmKb6TPb-s4j6c9WNnjd9W1rxX63iXTm9AmvZLNWYJurje2dcoaSWGJJqlWZ6EsFDXhGf1JwPSmJEseaDBwaB3fdZuWn5M-vQKaHAJJq0GzvXNwnj2yc8bEzz/s1600/SAM_6457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3OP7WMW0EGE-6IOjijX4LmKb6TPb-s4j6c9WNnjd9W1rxX63iXTm9AmvZLNWYJurje2dcoaSWGJJqlWZ6EsFDXhGf1JwPSmJEseaDBwaB3fdZuWn5M-vQKaHAJJq0GzvXNwnj2yc8bEzz/s400/SAM_6457.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">How to identify a village island: tall mobile phone antenna tower</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZF_8rdAS_Sf9D9ayfTBxFUshERRpbzhz3Xq9qp1PMwywedkKDVW3r1jyrHdK9trSIOoamDkIWc02FJgZhsPAL0kGh7-OfddMv5P1pXXxQWNPVJxTY6PnZNLpOPAO1LCnLm24Kpl_0YdWg/s1600/SAM_6573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZF_8rdAS_Sf9D9ayfTBxFUshERRpbzhz3Xq9qp1PMwywedkKDVW3r1jyrHdK9trSIOoamDkIWc02FJgZhsPAL0kGh7-OfddMv5P1pXXxQWNPVJxTY6PnZNLpOPAO1LCnLm24Kpl_0YdWg/s400/SAM_6573.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Maldives villages have wide, swept, picturesque streets</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Travelling south after Sandy left us, we
entered less-touristy atolls and found more “rural” life. Here the villages
were smaller; many times, we were welcomed by local people and in some cases
they came out to the boat and invited us onto the island.</div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA">Most villages could not be seen from where
we were anchored: they are screened by a wide band of coconut palms and trees round
the island, which forms a cool, shaded recreational area for children to play,
people to rest, and ladies to prepare leaves for the curry meal.</span> </div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJaonrSs060ulpSIluBJnlQw9TTA1DCJFqoqCKA9egGJPegaUSW7OxuU2QKN4rZu1kNuDErkzctwpmmDACuWciHzPbhzd0QiRnLhUjYNe1wUrS0tQKl6-NFUO4_moYzNsv3nP3PbB9HGVV/s1600/SAM_6600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJaonrSs060ulpSIluBJnlQw9TTA1DCJFqoqCKA9egGJPegaUSW7OxuU2QKN4rZu1kNuDErkzctwpmmDACuWciHzPbhzd0QiRnLhUjYNe1wUrS0tQKl6-NFUO4_moYzNsv3nP3PbB9HGVV/s400/SAM_6600.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpQAoHzTZMiy9_xHY_HotMlk6qoBL_6vjhtFUvZr0K5ImE9Q4gxRPnqn7tNkxepOF_M4RJAIOybKh7Ukv-ICcVE_IWd3B2m8Nl5fn8RLCG2_5nsbdc5hyphenhyphenJGC0lDknIxb6jvYh6VccWrIKg/s1600/SAM_6604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpQAoHzTZMiy9_xHY_HotMlk6qoBL_6vjhtFUvZr0K5ImE9Q4gxRPnqn7tNkxepOF_M4RJAIOybKh7Ukv-ICcVE_IWd3B2m8Nl5fn8RLCG2_5nsbdc5hyphenhyphenJGC0lDknIxb6jvYh6VccWrIKg/s400/SAM_6604.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">This man rests on the platform, ignoring typical hammock-style seating… and the ladies work in the background.</i></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLYQEJWKsagYsq0-haHclPAikvr3-LqWjhVDW3EWIwtqlWrzk3lD6MQ-LcAL7JAkbs9PNsrlOVjLEOBtWWJ_qGANeMf8E-p4AUPhCS_oIg6fXe3LyNxirfvDprimh88ZE_QSZAy5uy0Ss/s1600/SAM_6599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLYQEJWKsagYsq0-haHclPAikvr3-LqWjhVDW3EWIwtqlWrzk3lD6MQ-LcAL7JAkbs9PNsrlOVjLEOBtWWJ_qGANeMf8E-p4AUPhCS_oIg6fXe3LyNxirfvDprimh88ZE_QSZAy5uy0Ss/s400/SAM_6599.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA">It was great to watch how people went about
their daily chores: this laden boat needs to get its cargo across the deeper
water (dark blue), typically less calm and flat than in the lagoon… hope he got
there dry, but it is hard to imagine how!</span> </div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN-ZA">Maldivians are really friendly people –
living in small island communities as most of them do, they seem to take
collective pride in their domain and want to share with outsiders. One island
had a new guest house, of which many boasted proudly; at another, the man in
charge of the clinic came to visit us on the boat with three others, bringing
gifts of coconuts and welcoming us:“You are our neighbours”.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA">They explained how villages on islands
address their particular problems. Water? No desalination plants like the
resorts (costly!) but an abundance of rain-water tanks. Power?All villages have
“power houses”: this one serves a village of about 700 people.</span> </div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIQd41GAOLk7ORoBSVk6YhK7IXEYWADMv4n9PK6R_MhQpPDNo2nUdT7lgHckOp5aOWoviZajWwNBA7HvhhRoBT4MW8wlNKvLsw3PmhM9YaDvFbk6pUH5g0tuiUfJOsWsSIjGdU2bV7mElD/s1600/SAM_6590.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIQd41GAOLk7ORoBSVk6YhK7IXEYWADMv4n9PK6R_MhQpPDNo2nUdT7lgHckOp5aOWoviZajWwNBA7HvhhRoBT4MW8wlNKvLsw3PmhM9YaDvFbk6pUH5g0tuiUfJOsWsSIjGdU2bV7mElD/s400/SAM_6590.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-ZA"> </span>At a café you will find great coffee
(steamed milk with coffee powder sprinkled on foam: a basic latte, really) and
typical Maldivian short eats: snacks you select from a display, mostly
deep-fried delicious fish- or curry-based or, for dessert, coconut balls. Oh,
and pizza slices! Then a palate cleanser: a leaf in which to wrap slices of a
hard nut, some cloves and a sprinkle of crystallised fruit and veg salts. It is
really refreshing!</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjff7YKrgjE9vJNMeju1ojOjinXnErgMKr7TYKWwIaosxLz0nrA9sUQH1kSRB8K8bL9zhn9rQQnW_ZCxOuUIENP4HYNZtWpOkp_8MX_cdEd3Tr4mN6c-oChEFXhJ4VL8yKVjrBuQ8DBmqLj/s1600/SAM_6691.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjff7YKrgjE9vJNMeju1ojOjinXnErgMKr7TYKWwIaosxLz0nrA9sUQH1kSRB8K8bL9zhn9rQQnW_ZCxOuUIENP4HYNZtWpOkp_8MX_cdEd3Tr4mN6c-oChEFXhJ4VL8yKVjrBuQ8DBmqLj/s400/SAM_6691.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Palate cleanser after meal</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The fishing industry has changed; since the
country has boats able to do cold-storage that travel to collect catches or
factory ships that process at sea, men are away from home for many weeks now, and
less fishing boats are island-based. There is still fishing for home, and we bought
two dinners from these guys! </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoUC9ct_Ey-d6s36dpBClvl4emHHI_ElQD1-hRICc1Qj5Kgh2UI-AUSgFHZJFFTgkXuv2kxK7KRUHm4cOHg3tCsB7dIN2mLwhsY1R1VGC1-PLd4jWrQN3Sepf71m2xxh6CrrN3vRzaEURW/s1600/SAM_6616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoUC9ct_Ey-d6s36dpBClvl4emHHI_ElQD1-hRICc1Qj5Kgh2UI-AUSgFHZJFFTgkXuv2kxK7KRUHm4cOHg3tCsB7dIN2mLwhsY1R1VGC1-PLd4jWrQN3Sepf71m2xxh6CrrN3vRzaEURW/s400/SAM_6616.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA">Everywhere we went, the marine life was
extraordinarily rich and abundant: every type of reef fish you can name (and in
so many cases larger than we have yet seen); a great range of corals that bore
little sign of deterioration, and many signs of new growth; reefs with really
interesting topography and wall drop-offs along which the predators patrolled,
often in big shoals, casting speculative eyes at us, never mind the fish!</span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAM8QyWv0L94TF4gM6dKW4xbqMq-yuyvF5CRH_P2EZFtbRHGTW3KidvaQJdr8OZ3XgOSFWkFYtagpH5xK3V3UEx8tLGxQlrS4_ydczZL9xWGb1sM5_kD9iLQvhz9czTDpZBMKC28R6dMDp/s1600/IMGP3006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAM8QyWv0L94TF4gM6dKW4xbqMq-yuyvF5CRH_P2EZFtbRHGTW3KidvaQJdr8OZ3XgOSFWkFYtagpH5xK3V3UEx8tLGxQlrS4_ydczZL9xWGb1sM5_kD9iLQvhz9czTDpZBMKC28R6dMDp/s400/IMGP3006.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA">As well as the coral fish, we revelled in
sighting rays, turtles, sharks (black-tip)… and of course, the dolphin that
came to play in the bows or jumped and cavorted off the side or feeding pods
that cruised by our anchored boat.</span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqgBi1aXLRRjls9LIBQkwDpd_PhE_jW1e0k_PaDoRNuBbaMDfhHr9ry0lBQWBJ0prXSJnHZUXLegD-JoLhLP4edVkaygBmFFikfqzMdT74pLDpwhXnIIGBzGL_KRMuom4PyITH-E4McJc7/s1600/IMGP3038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqgBi1aXLRRjls9LIBQkwDpd_PhE_jW1e0k_PaDoRNuBbaMDfhHr9ry0lBQWBJ0prXSJnHZUXLegD-JoLhLP4edVkaygBmFFikfqzMdT74pLDpwhXnIIGBzGL_KRMuom4PyITH-E4McJc7/s400/IMGP3038.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA">We had some exceptional sightings: at the
anchorage where we bought our fish, the day we came in brought disappointment
in that the water appeared “dirty”: in general, the water is crystal clear
here. But man’s “dirty” appears to be creature’s food – to our absolute awe,
two big manta rays came to feed directly in front of Ketoro. Initially confused
about what we were seeing (look at that white sheet… what is it? Now I see
black.. now white…) the rays were doing lazy large loops, giant mouths agape,
and we were seeing them from the top (black) then undersides (white), showing
their gill-slits. When finished, they cruised past us but returned another day
to thrill us again.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA">Then here was our “best of the Maldives”…
really hard to find a place to anchor, but occasionally we hit gems:
uninhabited islands.</span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP7j2dEsygEjZhFOKAfeZnn2SaoyM5B4glSxO5RocXHctpGSOkEIFfAFuDnrBtzBBAcXikIgrOkYYX3VkUbeDVIsR4F6b7n_1_JtUJXil1wp110op4j9UyvEvThFcCJlRYZcuggp2l0CjN/s1600/SAM_6808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP7j2dEsygEjZhFOKAfeZnn2SaoyM5B4glSxO5RocXHctpGSOkEIFfAFuDnrBtzBBAcXikIgrOkYYX3VkUbeDVIsR4F6b7n_1_JtUJXil1wp110op4j9UyvEvThFcCJlRYZcuggp2l0CjN/s400/SAM_6808.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA">Dream islands: powdery white sand, coconut
palms and crystal-clear water.</span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMlztb6275cTQkwdH6e-2AmeQ-i_ZU-9l1hKwA0NY1iaccgLARCwOMlF14lVnNxPoNHka7GO45BbjbGWeB2-WF_sJx9zhjpIf2L5OOQNOHqWxh5xlbV_7sK0h0bFSD5LUr4fpmAfSMVC-7/s1600/IMGP2937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMlztb6275cTQkwdH6e-2AmeQ-i_ZU-9l1hKwA0NY1iaccgLARCwOMlF14lVnNxPoNHka7GO45BbjbGWeB2-WF_sJx9zhjpIf2L5OOQNOHqWxh5xlbV_7sK0h0bFSD5LUr4fpmAfSMVC-7/s400/IMGP2937.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGHqf63BQZkJb6fckEb9XAUsxiEUnMGjKT6ZFinFuokMgbgp6lcSn1xQM5dDAd2RAM19jKgrhSR9Y5XgtKgWI0vnSUxzsVPPLwUmFmpSbc4KsBdG9b-nECNM_-puJ6ii8SR8HPFmsryTf4/s1600/IMGP2943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGHqf63BQZkJb6fckEb9XAUsxiEUnMGjKT6ZFinFuokMgbgp6lcSn1xQM5dDAd2RAM19jKgrhSR9Y5XgtKgWI0vnSUxzsVPPLwUmFmpSbc4KsBdG9b-nECNM_-puJ6ii8SR8HPFmsryTf4/s400/IMGP2943.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA">We are now putting aside the memories of
sleepless nights with storms putting us at risk of collision with reefs, and
times when we could not find anchorages as the information was incorrect and we
had to race to get anchored before dark, or spend the night outside the atoll,
at sea. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA">This is why you can only travel inside the atolls in good light:</span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGwJhacOTNNMEVo8rMOuz051RULpRHlfDjpK64rUxKET3utbU1QF7S6UfAIDOl-UcigWGNzrUCp0PHekl6Uws9MKMogP06DfjYDzY9KNASmZ_s8iG41zGfCxXvrrX4qPSM9Ssg004MI7fy/s1600/SAM_6770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGwJhacOTNNMEVo8rMOuz051RULpRHlfDjpK64rUxKET3utbU1QF7S6UfAIDOl-UcigWGNzrUCp0PHekl6Uws9MKMogP06DfjYDzY9KNASmZ_s8iG41zGfCxXvrrX4qPSM9Ssg004MI7fy/s400/SAM_6770.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">In bad light, there is no change in water colour indicating the shallow reef area: bad news!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7b6qOW9vkUpZO3UCN5yKvdQ6VxukBRhBpNgOIzhyphenhyphenR8op4JKLBeSSS0oDTMxFt4XhtFK1xn3YpzCfv1pcFQPskkKdeCoVTZg40su91b6YjDkwunb0MkrIELY9n7b8-7e8wcvxe1R9QhLQs/s1600/SAM_6707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7b6qOW9vkUpZO3UCN5yKvdQ6VxukBRhBpNgOIzhyphenhyphenR8op4JKLBeSSS0oDTMxFt4XhtFK1xn3YpzCfv1pcFQPskkKdeCoVTZg40su91b6YjDkwunb0MkrIELY9n7b8-7e8wcvxe1R9QhLQs/s400/SAM_6707.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Leaving a lagoon - this man-made channel is very easy to identify; often there is no more than a pole or a buoy.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Towards the end of our month here (6
April), we crossed the equator: a chilled glass of bubbly alongside the chart shows
that we made the most of it!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtr4KGeGUW8m0Z6Wn_csY5LbDrDrNsDZzWoyrUEG2iAlmrlcYt7HZEOJVnlA24HiqFzVHfH-8Hsj-htt9d6scyy6746i-kUnKOOAl3LJBa-nuZdEtxcWVBENMENOYrjgfvqiPU4R6h7Log/s1600/SAM_6826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtr4KGeGUW8m0Z6Wn_csY5LbDrDrNsDZzWoyrUEG2iAlmrlcYt7HZEOJVnlA24HiqFzVHfH-8Hsj-htt9d6scyy6746i-kUnKOOAl3LJBa-nuZdEtxcWVBENMENOYrjgfvqiPU4R6h7Log/s400/SAM_6826.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA">The red yacht icon further east on the
equator is where we made the crossing on the way up: in foul, freezing weather
early morning on 16 April 2010. This time we celebrated the glorious weather by
“swimming” across the equator (well, we were dragged… no way we were letting
that boat go!)</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixJumFf5M1EvphYSmQPHOx2wr3lC4OGj1WX8l3xz6Y5YaUkJr9wMnvR3Clkrm3lIOxFjChU3t6def9VC-lkWJYbGDhPlodGmSn815a9j35YDlLwGE1FGWyFUMUgNQz57_PUG2zz3G5-ByW/s1600/SAM_6829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixJumFf5M1EvphYSmQPHOx2wr3lC4OGj1WX8l3xz6Y5YaUkJr9wMnvR3Clkrm3lIOxFjChU3t6def9VC-lkWJYbGDhPlodGmSn815a9j35YDlLwGE1FGWyFUMUgNQz57_PUG2zz3G5-ByW/s400/SAM_6829.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Camera on timer well tilted back to not fall off the steps, but our folly is recorded!</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were on a high, having just experienced
a most incredible whale sighting. Approaching the equator, we saw a pod of
whales blowing ahead: we slowed down (are a bit nervous of the big fellows) and
next minute were speechless as one was alongside the boat… from the helm, we
looked down on turquoise and white breaking water over the spine and barnacled
head of one, not 10m away from us! (Which means that the rest of his bulk was…
where? Under us?) The whale was about 50 foot long (smallish, as whales go, but
bigger than Ketoro) and the small dorsal fin and knobbly-looking jaw make us
think it was a humpback. It was right at the surface, then blew just behind the
boat and dove down. We were stunned and awed; a bit unnerved too… no pics: did
not leave the scene for the camera!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA">So now we sit in Addu Atoll: doing engine
work, buying food and fuel, and enjoying the fact that even at this functional
harbour we have had two rays, a turtle and numerous fish under the boat. We are
about to clear out of the country for Chagos – to see more island beauty and
another marine wonderland! </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjgn8y4Xhh2yEqPa9DqAgawaWetFt0zdVR5FrIaelkraDUXVMN8otTkSBtCvZztJ1DM48Fs1NGertzPfgk6L6Xxd12o_xwdV0TVuWF2Gt4-hBvt6q6qbB8FqJRPBlUp93hIVHBnediWHTX/s1600/IMGP2969.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjgn8y4Xhh2yEqPa9DqAgawaWetFt0zdVR5FrIaelkraDUXVMN8otTkSBtCvZztJ1DM48Fs1NGertzPfgk6L6Xxd12o_xwdV0TVuWF2Gt4-hBvt6q6qbB8FqJRPBlUp93hIVHBnediWHTX/s400/IMGP2969.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlwbUyJBlsaDSitbWsmJulrW8YX6jz9qudZPri2_aeu2WM35aeyeKlKzy5qzccsVpmLmqtrIBtxneWacqYJAWeLQh9igvQEMwPoMCHb2ZXOcSpgRiJ85fCl-RMMN0dk4TrVnt0SZ0Ww-h1/s1600/IMGP3012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlwbUyJBlsaDSitbWsmJulrW8YX6jz9qudZPri2_aeu2WM35aeyeKlKzy5qzccsVpmLmqtrIBtxneWacqYJAWeLQh9igvQEMwPoMCHb2ZXOcSpgRiJ85fCl-RMMN0dk4TrVnt0SZ0Ww-h1/s400/IMGP3012.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-ZA"><br /></span></div>
</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-9726304386409916742013-04-01T11:23:00.001+02:002013-04-01T11:23:45.861+02:00Happy Birthday, Bacon! And other food stories…<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-ZA"></span></b></div><span lang="EN-ZA">This is the Male fresh local-produce market: </span><br />
<span lang="EN-ZA"> </span> <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv80MADD_SiUpx5PY4xl61TMtR94MB5qC1JnUBCt_01Nx2cgtsIY8BArqSmabAjMUDzm0ITjwCUZqx67nAKrdrc02lM5WV_SwbG93wS2lAIOmkFUyCKnjsSwGO-KQQDOPnlkWmw52qI3d0/s1600/IMG_3734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv80MADD_SiUpx5PY4xl61TMtR94MB5qC1JnUBCt_01Nx2cgtsIY8BArqSmabAjMUDzm0ITjwCUZqx67nAKrdrc02lM5WV_SwbG93wS2lAIOmkFUyCKnjsSwGO-KQQDOPnlkWmw52qI3d0/s400/IMG_3734.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">... it is really great, although the Maldives (being a collection of tiny, low-lying islands) has very limited agriculture, so they have to import much of their food, and we have to search far and wide to find it. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">When one man asked “Where you from?” at our answer “South Africa”, he beamed and said: “oranges!” </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr8fAdx21kmtAiBVKBdNaQFQlhA4pzlRY8A-q8j9bVegPFg5Na0eVQCYCW47f8QGPYfjkIfN5knCUKfj15rHsV42qEYqWWKj747QGyzbMa3G1caiSaJqcFp7Qaj9nxEX8ngwtbPRlN45hC/s1600/SAM_6357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr8fAdx21kmtAiBVKBdNaQFQlhA4pzlRY8A-q8j9bVegPFg5Na0eVQCYCW47f8QGPYfjkIfN5knCUKfj15rHsV42qEYqWWKj747QGyzbMa3G1caiSaJqcFp7Qaj9nxEX8ngwtbPRlN45hC/s400/SAM_6357.JPG" width="400" /></a></b></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Male food supply (the market and stores) is basically it for the Maldives: shopping in many of the villages on the tiny islands will most likely not produce a satisfying result, and if one indeed finds three brownish limes and some hollow tomatoes… you buy them gratefully! However, you can also buy good frozen chickens…in some places, imported from Brazil!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Many products are imported from India, just up the road from the Maldives. We have shopped in tiny Indian stores in Male for garlic, potatoes and eggs. At the same miniscule shop you could buy canned goods,bicycles, hammers, adhesives: almost anything you want, and all is squeezed into a very small space, including the stairs, and into the small storeroom above. Loading is done in pragmatic fashion: balance on the narrow ledge and throw between buddy below and buddy above!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgp927vxa3byyg4Z5TxW16wZTkoMLemypLDvT_XE403C9JH41FF-R3fqkHt5XVmJ-2pAJJbqr8JVu-FsWT36nSQYEhaYoyCEa5uAUYQc8hs13j3zAUkwyOqSuarPoqwDVHtf0ZmQZrwpd/s1600/SAM_6362.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgp927vxa3byyg4Z5TxW16wZTkoMLemypLDvT_XE403C9JH41FF-R3fqkHt5XVmJ-2pAJJbqr8JVu-FsWT36nSQYEhaYoyCEa5uAUYQc8hs13j3zAUkwyOqSuarPoqwDVHtf0ZmQZrwpd/s400/SAM_6362.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Of course, not everything FITS in the shop, so much of it spills outside and sits in the sun – and the shopkeepers appear not to want their hammers and tins in the sun so, for example, the potatoes, flour, drinks and eggs occupy that space.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Eggs. Brought in from India. Stored street-side at a Male trader’s shop for…? How long? We have bought those eggs: sometimes to our chagrin, like for example the time in 2010 when Irene was seen, in a fit of despair (? Rage?)simply dumping a dozen into the waters of Hulumale lagoon… and they exploded, emitting a foul, green-grey gas.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Have we learned? No. Ever-hopeful, we bought those eggs again in 2013, minimising risk by supporting two different shops. Some were good. However, less than a week after purchase, the port aft cabin – storage area for eggs - smelled foul (the day after Sandy left: lucky girl escaped in time!). No further detail required. We are endlessly grateful to a yachtie friend who gave us packets of powdered egg!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Have no fear if you are going to a resort in the Maldives: they all fly in their own stuff and exist in an entirely different world! One resort manager spoke of their own aeroplane that does a weekly round trip to Australia and Europe to bring in produce for their two resorts in Maldives. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Storing as best one can</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">This is a photo looking down on the contents of one of our bilges (under-floor area that conducts pipes and collects water, from where it is automatically pumped off the boat). </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz0TlgneLEEnTUfWqTX40wE_c0aF19D1PNC0gWAixiPm_rttOQYiZUwHnlSLCdrk5JL1ScPIFbydJe6QTgmFxwVhAWznHg8sVRTcWTV1Z-tAJIs0W2A0ov6voVZq4F3szaKjnZDD39m8B6/s1600/SAM_6683.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz0TlgneLEEnTUfWqTX40wE_c0aF19D1PNC0gWAixiPm_rttOQYiZUwHnlSLCdrk5JL1ScPIFbydJe6QTgmFxwVhAWznHg8sVRTcWTV1Z-tAJIs0W2A0ov6voVZq4F3szaKjnZDD39m8B6/s400/SAM_6683.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">A long-term storage area…. Beer, soft drinks, Snickers bars, and a large Edam cheese. Yum!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">This is a humid, warm area. The Edam has to be attended to regularly; mostly because it looks like this after a week or two: </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6j6k-HvmqEq_YITwGnZlCDL5YPfDeSLwksGos2miMYyEuxdWC97XuGzUjeoAcJjtQ9ZZw9eTZ4wqBu5VrCS2YYlRIobnFnh_LEdQ0G_xAQ-tzqdpwXjo4qhNX5hKfhO4NZg3i8oCvox3/s1600/SAM_6679.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6j6k-HvmqEq_YITwGnZlCDL5YPfDeSLwksGos2miMYyEuxdWC97XuGzUjeoAcJjtQ9ZZw9eTZ4wqBu5VrCS2YYlRIobnFnh_LEdQ0G_xAQ-tzqdpwXjo4qhNX5hKfhO4NZg3i8oCvox3/s400/SAM_6679.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">See the mould sections on three corners? (Initially, this was a round cheese; it sagged in the warm humidity!) Happily the mould is mostly on the outer surface; regular vinegar wash, then dry and seal in plastic, saves our cheese for another day / month.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Looking at our storage, it seems that we cannot point fingers at the Indian traders and their eggs: we are all doing the best we can with resources and space available to us!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Alien on board?</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">One night on passage, Irene (on watch) saw a luminous blue glowing glob / puddle in the corner of the cockpit. Seriously! No, this is not a sleep-deprivation tale… </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">The night was black, with only a dull glow from the instrument panel, and clouds covering the sliver of waning moon; the swells made the boat pitch and roll, sending water crashing over the back steps, to recede and further crash, adding their noise to the sounds of engines thumping, bridge-deck slamming, rigging creaking, sails snapping…</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">And a glowing blue glob lurked in the dark and looked at me.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">So I put my finger on it, to press it and feel its texture. Liquid: not a globule; but its shape made it appear so. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Torch!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">With the light on it, there was nothing there; just a spilled liquid… switch off the torch and it glowed even brighter.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">So I put my finger on it again, to smell and taste it (early lesson as yachties is the finger-tip test: water in the bilges… salt or fresh or foul? Now diagnose the origin!) In this case: FISH (oh, and some underlying delicious olive oil / lemon / lemon grass / garlic marinade…. But I digress).</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Nothing like a bit of detective-work to while away the hours on watch and the mystery was (partially) solved:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrH6de2yNL6nnlSSbfFXwAjbcaMkmx9B9oF7Ac_UG7jkEsMVWPKZXPMFOnsZt4-eS0D26K2AsmhkamUNXBn5JbuA3K_E0bVJYt5LdGq50OqQl5hMh8DJHMGaUrDkGqcnzZ7AdIEqmMOVwb/s1600/DSCN1936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrH6de2yNL6nnlSSbfFXwAjbcaMkmx9B9oF7Ac_UG7jkEsMVWPKZXPMFOnsZt4-eS0D26K2AsmhkamUNXBn5JbuA3K_E0bVJYt5LdGq50OqQl5hMh8DJHMGaUrDkGqcnzZ7AdIEqmMOVwb/s400/DSCN1936.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Dorado! We had caught a beautiful dorado for dinner: these fish have dazzling colours – golden, with bright metallic blues and greens; once out of the water they change colour, which then fades when they die. The foil-wrapped dorado fillets had been placed on a surface from where they had leaked and the liquid had settled in the corner…and produced the “alien” glow when night came. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">However, we do not know the actual chemistry of that glow, and are interested…. If you have the time, the interest and decent bandwidth, please research it and place in the comments box at the end of this blog, or mail us the info!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Happy Birthday, Bacon!</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Just like everyone else, we have a hanging wall calendar. Except, luckily for us, it is not filled with appointments or dates as we are perpetually unaware of what day it is, nor need we be (except the really vital ones like <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Visa expires; Depart country <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>immediately</i>). </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">So our calendar is filled with other things really important to us: the birthdays and anniversaries of our family and friends, and when to eat our bacon and ham.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">So, for example, the first 10 days of May read: </span></div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;"><tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;"> <td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">1 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Workers’ Day</i></span></div></td> <td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">2 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Alice</i></span></div></td> <td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">3 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Sandy</i></span></div></td> <td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">4 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ham</i></span></div></td> <td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">5 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pat</i></span></div></td> <td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.05pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">6 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Geoff & Sue</i></span></div></td> <td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.05pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">7 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Elise</i></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">8 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Bacon</i></span></div></td> <td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">9 </span></div></td> <td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">10 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Boerewors</i></span></div></td> <td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-ZA">Etc</span></div></td> <td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div></td> <td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.05pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div></td> <td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 66.05pt;" valign="top" width="88"> <div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA"> (First off: what is Workers’ Day!?)</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Let me now explain… We have very few stocks of certain favourite foodstuffs (specifically: 8 bacon, 8 ham, 4 SA boerewors, 2 kg cheese) and limited opportunity to replenish stocks (well, re those meats - none; we are travelling in Muslim Maldives and uninhabited Chagos); in addition, our oven does not come to temperature sufficiently to bake bread; veg and fruit are absent or limping into the home stretch and our sprouting factory is not yet up to speed. What we have on board, in the case of the meat particularly, must last until Mauritius, i.e. until mid-June.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Food concerns were starting to become oppressive, like little storm clouds building up in my head (this is clearly the Minister-in-charge of Gastronomy speaking here), and with this background, I said to Rolf one day (in fact, on 23 March): <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">what would you like for lunch?</i> His answer, beaming: a toasted bacon and cheese sandwich. (I must hasten to state that this question is seldom put to the skipper – he must eat what he gets, generally.)</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Well, this answer did not endear the skipper to the Admiral / m-i-c Gastronomy. His lunch was, therefore, baked beans on a biscuit, accompanied by a lecture which generally covered the following topics: prudent housekeeping, careful resource management, general thoughtfulness and consideration of others’ burdens and needs.Also deemed timely and appropriate were… the frequency with which the Admiral is offered tea, who makes the bed in the morning and the state of the nation re fishing (general explanation: our winning streak / contribution to food stocks in this regard has been, well, pathetic since we resumed out quest to cross the ocean again, (dorado above excluded) and one does observe a general lassitude in getting the rods out and particularly, one needs to question whether fish actually LIKE rusty lures?).</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">The result? The Skipper said he had enjoyed lunch, thank you: was that a new brand of bean? And would the Admiral like some tea?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">And now the bacon, ham and wors provisions have been carefully distributed so the stocks last the course: days have been allocated on the birthday calendar – and who knows, maybe the bacon will be toasted with a suitable birthday drink: as are you!</span></div>Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-5402955427021734642013-03-25T12:34:00.000+02:002013-03-25T12:34:00.715+02:00The Maldives: A tale of two days (OR: Maldives is not about the land: or is it?)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Two weeks at sea reminded us how much of our planet is water
and sky, the latter taking on a presence that demanded attention and always
provided scenes of extraordinary colour and varied cloud shapes: the beauty was
often incredible.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZ1jrTsT8XUr73wU9H7wY3wR5AIEVpRHPeTXYVI4i3lTyYDGKVQt_ggbBwMKNf28t2tuzjb7QqUqrLsuJPxQeRJJX9SCExkBBIlIc7aocH5ceTfd8sy3gZivtixEv7HGl8borSHhyLcCK/s1600/IMG_3175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZ1jrTsT8XUr73wU9H7wY3wR5AIEVpRHPeTXYVI4i3lTyYDGKVQt_ggbBwMKNf28t2tuzjb7QqUqrLsuJPxQeRJJX9SCExkBBIlIc7aocH5ceTfd8sy3gZivtixEv7HGl8borSHhyLcCK/s400/IMG_3175.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were, of course, looking forward to land again and are
enjoying the opportunities to stop the boat and walk on terra firma; but there
is not a lot of land in the Maldives!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5f5ZbNveXkZF1DSnRyojYiNPy2zADMUHHYnRfkP3DtQJKLJvQoPZ5au37OEq6vSrxtqrVzbOB4meeNYk5fX6fUw8Sd1S4e2pCw8UH16ykGOXcivakgbchBvTrbVn_G3gkM2LxvI-mmiky/s1600/IMG_4018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5f5ZbNveXkZF1DSnRyojYiNPy2zADMUHHYnRfkP3DtQJKLJvQoPZ5au37OEq6vSrxtqrVzbOB4meeNYk5fX6fUw8Sd1S4e2pCw8UH16ykGOXcivakgbchBvTrbVn_G3gkM2LxvI-mmiky/s400/IMG_4018.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Sometimes an island strip reveals the water-sky interface.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3tfb72Xg9fg8hKq4i4KZrEf_j1nI0-ihHipry-2axZlnxh8rhdRXiIuUJE0X_2KmVLjurdXEVccv3oue3uHBmW7g84otAKbvmV_yBUlO-7ibGz2eEbn4adgnWa51EOrzUcM2vybYJflvz/s1600/DSCN2208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3tfb72Xg9fg8hKq4i4KZrEf_j1nI0-ihHipry-2axZlnxh8rhdRXiIuUJE0X_2KmVLjurdXEVccv3oue3uHBmW7g84otAKbvmV_yBUlO-7ibGz2eEbn4adgnWa51EOrzUcM2vybYJflvz/s400/DSCN2208.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Sometimes it adds another focus to beauty already there.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p> </o:p>And what land there is, becomes used to the fullest….</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVXclrsjZJ2q5RZiuYT1UPGSLIRxjvOygSujDCFmokLIBMOYJivpYUU_Pdw0fU4WG-Kc30r1zVPgsjZcaYlfsJmLIo60S6pAs94rcWMrtADAw-yYg1vEy7MAK91P6L2XozaLzZRUDRYNEG/s1600/IMG_3806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVXclrsjZJ2q5RZiuYT1UPGSLIRxjvOygSujDCFmokLIBMOYJivpYUU_Pdw0fU4WG-Kc30r1zVPgsjZcaYlfsJmLIo60S6pAs94rcWMrtADAw-yYg1vEy7MAK91P6L2XozaLzZRUDRYNEG/s400/IMG_3806.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Male, the capital city, filling all the space available on the island</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0bgV3PWWK3Yhp41pG-TZegFYOkU4i_Un8WTgZU55U5W9BZ0R5nqtcmiLYr_HoXa-YX8CWe35pRlWvYwYMW6UC7x6TujIwSS0wQ5D_9k3bdURU88egWBotMj6o__3WA4PiJItnrwKGwCL/s1600/IMG_3831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0bgV3PWWK3Yhp41pG-TZegFYOkU4i_Un8WTgZU55U5W9BZ0R5nqtcmiLYr_HoXa-YX8CWe35pRlWvYwYMW6UC7x6TujIwSS0wQ5D_9k3bdURU88egWBotMj6o__3WA4PiJItnrwKGwCL/s400/IMG_3831.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Resorts need to build out on stilts for their accommodations.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p> A few words about the Maldives, as it impacts on the life of
cruising yachties: firstly, we need permission to anchor in certain areas and
then, even though we live on the water, it IS all about the land for us –
specifically, the sea floor, and what it offers for anchoring.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We need: a depth of 4 to 20 metres, good holding sand, no
coral outcrops (bommies) or rocks to foul boat undersides or snare the
anchor-chain.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Maldives is made up of 26 atolls spread out N to S over 1000km;
each atoll is made up of a ring of reef and islands, and there are 1192 coral
islands in total (none higher than 3m above sea level). The atolls are each surrounded
by reefs and the islands, too, are surrounded by their own reefs. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Yachting in this country is complicated: no anchoring
outside the atolls (depths are hundreds of metres); difficult access into the
atolls (they are surrounded by reefs, but with small passages); care required
for sailing inside the atolls (many coral heads make it inadvisable to sail
except in the best light, with a watch on the bow for bommies coming close to
the surface); anchoring depths in the atolls are too deep for normal cruising
yachts (about 40m), and off hundreds of islands no anchoring at all. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeW4SxF76IQ37MRBIL7NdSPGAkeuJIR-OnLTwcPfTbdbQrQC78f04jp1XBgE6HXIUuvjojGjkSgODDpIQ7n94tVAaTjjrfT7WciyI1AeMwoiu1iHDghmn_DUqnp7Dfx-p2XybiInI6Kuh/s1600/SAM_6494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeW4SxF76IQ37MRBIL7NdSPGAkeuJIR-OnLTwcPfTbdbQrQC78f04jp1XBgE6HXIUuvjojGjkSgODDpIQ7n94tVAaTjjrfT7WciyI1AeMwoiu1iHDghmn_DUqnp7Dfx-p2XybiInI6Kuh/s400/SAM_6494.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This chart, for example, shows an atoll we will reach in a
few days: South Nilandhe. We will see little above the water: just the few tiny
yellow circles (eg one in the south) which are islands; the rest of the green
is all submerged reef… to be avoided, but not seen above water – good eyes and
good visibility required to see the colour changes in the water. There are a
few channels to get into the atoll, and when inside we must dodge all the reefs
and bommies coming to the surface from about 50m below. We have information for
only one possible anchorage (marked red) and hope the information is good, or
we leave the atoll.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anchoring for us is only possible in the shallowish sandy
areas sometimes found near the islands. Sometimes you can get to the sandy
areas, sometimes you cannot as the surrounding reef has no break. Sometimes the
sandy areas are littered with bommies. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So this is what is important to a cruiser in the Maldives:
accurate sailing notes that give GPS positions for channels through the reefs
and also potential anchoring positions, depths and ground state. We have bought
a booklet of these, and also have documents circulated via other yachties, from
their experiences. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Also vital? Accurate charts on the boat (in our case, the
electronic chart-plotter and paper charts) as we use them, along with depth
sounder, for navigation. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We received our cruising permit (permissions) and set off with
our reference notes to Ari Atoll, not previously visited. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here is the story of two days.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ari atoll has many easy entry channels through the outer
reef: wonderful start. We neared a resort anchorage, for which we had anchoring
GPS points in notes. The anchoring waypoint was wrong: the depth was totally
out (too deep) and it was likely on coral (we would destroy nature and
ourselves!). We phoned the resort and after much to-and-fro were given the
welcome invitation to use their mooring buoy: heaven!! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We tied up and took ourselves to reception, where we were
greeted, given a tour and invited to use the facilities – which we did,
gratefully, and would invite all other yachties to go to Moofushi Island
Resort. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE3fT83V3iXZqldqleUSf61qKYgnSSHkD2Qr79mXMz5yJo5CJloCPDmYZszZuV4t5YleGuFhTXqFYi4z-AGmg5vFp9KfASb1pQpZjuGl3YJjUYQqIFhz-DXXVUEI514d2DkKZ7YfVX4fZi/s1600/SAM_6446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE3fT83V3iXZqldqleUSf61qKYgnSSHkD2Qr79mXMz5yJo5CJloCPDmYZszZuV4t5YleGuFhTXqFYi4z-AGmg5vFp9KfASb1pQpZjuGl3YJjUYQqIFhz-DXXVUEI514d2DkKZ7YfVX4fZi/s400/SAM_6446.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">How most guests get to Moofushi: by sea-plane taxi.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgurIggjjJh_VHJCADQgOBAGkT9l_pf1U84GMxzx8daimKf8NLd-wxaxJ8jbvCMMu-q_IpdxfFX47O-J4tAhEAJtiCxieioRlHbf2-R7RPZBvEsSnWGDCYhyphenhyphen6XjjHrnz25qlNEXc8Y50o-j/s1600/DSCN2103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgurIggjjJh_VHJCADQgOBAGkT9l_pf1U84GMxzx8daimKf8NLd-wxaxJ8jbvCMMu-q_IpdxfFX47O-J4tAhEAJtiCxieioRlHbf2-R7RPZBvEsSnWGDCYhyphenhyphen6XjjHrnz25qlNEXc8Y50o-j/s400/DSCN2103.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">It is good to not have anchor chain snarling up in those dark areas.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leaving here, we had only 5nm to go to our next anchorage,
so left at 9:30 am for a one-hour trip looking forward to a non-travelling day
and a non-resort-based anchorage.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our reference notes were wrong again: the island anchorage
was… well, NOT do-able! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“No problem, let’s go to the next one”… off an island
village; there is a long channel to reach it, but we have the GPS co-ordinates
for the entry to the pass. These were wrong, and the three of us (two on bow,
one on helm) could not find the entry. After about an hour we said: <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“No problem, let’s go to the next one”… off a resort on
Rangali Island, noted in the booklet to be welcoming. Nonetheless, we phoned
for their permission and were asked to send mail giving our details. We did.
About 5 phone calls and 8 e mails later, we established that they were
receiving none of our mail (to two different addresses there, from two of
ours); but anyway…. We were now there, and their harbour was empty, so in we
went. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anchor down, cool off in the water – and the security boat
arrived, most decidedly without welcoming demeanour. Despite (we thought)
reasoned discussion and a print-out of our several e-mails, and informing them
that we did not need a room, just a night on anchor, we received a text message
saying we were not allowed as “we are running with full occupancy”. We phoned
(again); this time she admitted that we were a “security threat to our high-end
clients”. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was now 4:15pm and we had to leave, find the next
anchorage and enter it safely: for which we need good visibility.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At 6pm, in fading light, we found the entry to the Maamagili
channel : the notes were right, the start to the entry is denoted by two piles
of rocks and a pole (fairly typical Maldives). But we still had to find our way
in and then around the lagoon (to the recorded anchoring position) without
mishap. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Fortunately a dhoni was exiting the channel at the time:
placing waypoints on his moving radar print on our electronic chart we found the line of the channel
and eased forward. The notes warned of bommies and raised ground to port so we
went further in and turned to port after we saw a white buoy…. Aaaargh!!! The
ground rose up alarmingly and the two ladies on bow yelled as engines were
thrown in reverse. Please understand: the ladies are not usually slow to yell
at the skipper (!): we could not see! Polarised glasses do not help at dusk…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So we eventually gave up trying to go to port and decided to
just drop anchor at sunset, about 9h after we had set off for our
“short-sailing” day. If this had not worked, we would have had to exit the
atoll and spend the night at sea: not a bad option, and certainly less
stressful than damaging the boat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6K6hF0sDMA-JQjTsqw-AIv9zBsikCt4zgl3H_uW-aYG9vO_F1J3kGSExTJVHGkWT-RQx4YQS7N2x-9Mpjpyn4iTM17iKm6O-vGAMwcCKni6Wt3_mIbCrxXUymfLo7syxcsndAuPZGyHCz/s1600/IMG_4052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6K6hF0sDMA-JQjTsqw-AIv9zBsikCt4zgl3H_uW-aYG9vO_F1J3kGSExTJVHGkWT-RQx4YQS7N2x-9Mpjpyn4iTM17iKm6O-vGAMwcCKni6Wt3_mIbCrxXUymfLo7syxcsndAuPZGyHCz/s400/IMG_4052.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Anchoring at sunset is beautiful, but to be avoided if possible</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>We were anchored in the main “industrial” section, with a
dredger for company, and resort-headed (inquisitive) speedboats and dhonis
ploughing a constant path around us.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaEUoo1jvVsEpYC_TMBPrJ2GQ8f6tgIaeUw69NF74mzTW-D4IJ552xTFpkIeqfeyd8Dv-u06T_wX5gV9sOad2jjwROhwCiqQ4LarhztajjH6jPXFeBRBW1s0AbdsAGS4wGkeYYpaSMYfFc/s1600/IMG_4068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaEUoo1jvVsEpYC_TMBPrJ2GQ8f6tgIaeUw69NF74mzTW-D4IJ552xTFpkIeqfeyd8Dv-u06T_wX5gV9sOad2jjwROhwCiqQ4LarhztajjH6jPXFeBRBW1s0AbdsAGS4wGkeYYpaSMYfFc/s320/IMG_4068.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wonderfully easy to see deeper water when the sun is high, right? For our future reference, before leaving the next day we drove around the harbour
and placed a track for a safe route (we would return here to get Sandy to the
ferry).<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibZkh0tUt2ItQ5hmIxwtLmBxpuoSTpUJ_p0tV_BbfH-xxww798bdd51yVhvmRaqd09vgO-yh7Eof5fosDEIeHeYCwStTw0mm9BxSu3FV472bGp1hQIRFdlhqyAgpUy8PwZOgA2Iq_pG_5o/s1600/SAM_6482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibZkh0tUt2ItQ5hmIxwtLmBxpuoSTpUJ_p0tV_BbfH-xxww798bdd51yVhvmRaqd09vgO-yh7Eof5fosDEIeHeYCwStTw0mm9BxSu3FV472bGp1hQIRFdlhqyAgpUy8PwZOgA2Iq_pG_5o/s400/SAM_6482.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Chart showing waypoint route for channel, our first anchorage on S side, and later track to better subsequent anchorage.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>When would the adventure provide us with less excitement and
stress? We wished for that: especially Rolf and Irene, who can still hear and
feel the experience of grounding on a reef from their previous Maldives stay…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next day we set off for a prettier anchorage: the charts
showed potential at a lagoon behind a reef. We approached it, did the trick of
using moving dhoni radar print to get a passage track to follow, and moved
towards the start of the channel. Two men on a small tender raced towards us
from inside the lagoon saying STOP! We did (oh, no! Is this security sending us away again!?). But no: Ali, the skipper of the local
resort catamaran, came on board and said that channel was too shallow for our
draft, and kindly showed us a passage across the reef further up.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_bm-lFMrmmSdU1wbpcCrKg4jbM0bu-x6yJFwD2kZznOSL2opnDaKkjADT69HqIX72tgUYol_Itv774Yic9yXXvu27sjVgVJp6BJKJa7l8J8l0IbfdHPbhtEuiR0Z1D0TI4RuoALi-14H/s1600/IMG_4073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_bm-lFMrmmSdU1wbpcCrKg4jbM0bu-x6yJFwD2kZznOSL2opnDaKkjADT69HqIX72tgUYol_Itv774Yic9yXXvu27sjVgVJp6BJKJa7l8J8l0IbfdHPbhtEuiR0Z1D0TI4RuoALi-14H/s400/IMG_4073.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Ali advises on route through underwater reef: local knowledge is everything!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We tracked it…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA1Rb8ORHMGDEHKTDpaLjIjkbdg4CoGubuXHYQb45fSw67XnJTi7RCmZiwibHgyuMeu73UppE-WaFeTRCq3I8HGj6gO1eIh9TPpSKus3iH-OBZuz2x14iy4RlxRlCZQ309KUO71XKU6Odb/s1600/SAM_r+6474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA1Rb8ORHMGDEHKTDpaLjIjkbdg4CoGubuXHYQb45fSw67XnJTi7RCmZiwibHgyuMeu73UppE-WaFeTRCq3I8HGj6gO1eIh9TPpSKus3iH-OBZuz2x14iy4RlxRlCZQ309KUO71XKU6Odb/s400/SAM_r+6474.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: left;">Lagoon chart: track 16 was successful, but waypoint track (bottom left) Ali stopped us from entering... thankfully!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>…and have stayed here four days. Four waypoints (besides those on the channel
entries) show our anchorages. See the one apparently on the reef on the chart?
Here is the chart with radar overlay:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsgwsEf7v6iUmco1lYh9yXJUowG6FN0K1pDWb1WEehxXvyVliwnZupBi5P9xVcIxfcitCIVpcH4cObubDfBx1l53da2_8iV8MHH73Gejd7t8R0qrgUh-h5RfHQO7HN9bhc_IlziDQv_18s/s1600/SAM_R6477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsgwsEf7v6iUmco1lYh9yXJUowG6FN0K1pDWb1WEehxXvyVliwnZupBi5P9xVcIxfcitCIVpcH4cObubDfBx1l53da2_8iV8MHH73Gejd7t8R0qrgUh-h5RfHQO7HN9bhc_IlziDQv_18s/s400/SAM_R6477.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Clearly the chart is shifted about 0.5nm out… this does not
help, when navigating in the Maldives.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For now: we are currently at that boat icon - we have land!
Good holding under the boat, no threatening underwater obstructions, it is easy
to travel (in good light) to visit the local village at Digurah, the beach
alongside us, the very welcoming Lux resort on Dhidhdhoofinolhu at the other
end (all yachties: go to this resort for a warm welcome!), and there is superb snorkelling outside the extensive reef… underwater
gardens and fish life in the Maldives are superb.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBwzM35KKG77UpUeLFxKLYMQP-0ZackUSfOhl5xNiaDfbqgyLmtjZTn6sSooaJtsZw3M_Puc9zktzujzL39jEqCRhPZfmqvryZY5AwmkdNmvc_dBgbRht9EE3ib5wa0xMCcqIpas7aCtq/s1600/DSCN2110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBwzM35KKG77UpUeLFxKLYMQP-0ZackUSfOhl5xNiaDfbqgyLmtjZTn6sSooaJtsZw3M_Puc9zktzujzL39jEqCRhPZfmqvryZY5AwmkdNmvc_dBgbRht9EE3ib5wa0xMCcqIpas7aCtq/s400/DSCN2110.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfAJckx2K_SlVaRgATc8V48CKHgc951YwJvD3Q0iHy9E8iRv5wJKshg5IAlnvjuBlCU31kJXAu2wAVl3TSplEQs_B3JURcETfGW93ZHxA5tPjm6XzQzf78jU6FKZJ9fmMHjCc2jIj21f0i/s1600/DSCN2201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfAJckx2K_SlVaRgATc8V48CKHgc951YwJvD3Q0iHy9E8iRv5wJKshg5IAlnvjuBlCU31kJXAu2wAVl3TSplEQs_B3JURcETfGW93ZHxA5tPjm6XzQzf78jU6FKZJ9fmMHjCc2jIj21f0i/s400/DSCN2201.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
A great place to spend a few days, work on the boat…. and
plan our passages for the rest of the journey through the Maldives.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicMLXH3gjTN4-4u3bH6BvpPcdk1W6pGz9BI-K3IqWHwaog_uoVjLn0U0_GJ2iaDKQ7VLiN7qn0aOv9j7ekwc8jIGjOj7hMs1pZqDeY2K2iVGnW-Ps-G8NJq9YFLj5cIAbtpfdRBmrVVtBW/s1600/DSCN2272.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicMLXH3gjTN4-4u3bH6BvpPcdk1W6pGz9BI-K3IqWHwaog_uoVjLn0U0_GJ2iaDKQ7VLiN7qn0aOv9j7ekwc8jIGjOj7hMs1pZqDeY2K2iVGnW-Ps-G8NJq9YFLj5cIAbtpfdRBmrVVtBW/s400/DSCN2272.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwdHSUkdX8x-Q4c2EoUm_4hhASxjfGqgfJb3ucn7scBwtFAksQrPT1-RsJCJDFvlFtmt7FQ1VznfLVmCInZ1tRneBO7M6i03r43RYnJ53g4TtEqybP1TNqkH_QMoiBnkL71Qm0mQK9-jLz/s1600/DSCN2069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwdHSUkdX8x-Q4c2EoUm_4hhASxjfGqgfJb3ucn7scBwtFAksQrPT1-RsJCJDFvlFtmt7FQ1VznfLVmCInZ1tRneBO7M6i03r43RYnJ53g4TtEqybP1TNqkH_QMoiBnkL71Qm0mQK9-jLz/s400/DSCN2069.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-42389237585967923912013-03-14T11:51:00.000+02:002013-03-14T11:51:17.894+02:00Here we go on ocean crossings again: Phuket to the Maldives<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Did it! Tick: here we are - Male, on North Male atoll of the
Maldives, that is; having left Phuket, Thailand exactly two weeks earlier.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFPgNrBpRmNjq9heJlLhWsEPPs8G3nHYuRrwTOtK4N4fQ7wVNHysbPOyckZASecTAI8kk36mO3ryWFU1eB0tT2d_pdvaNS7N_vhHhIA5rw0qQAtoo2t4pi3T9s2cjCdOMWFCAgi-W9erO6/s1600/IMG_3608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFPgNrBpRmNjq9heJlLhWsEPPs8G3nHYuRrwTOtK4N4fQ7wVNHysbPOyckZASecTAI8kk36mO3ryWFU1eB0tT2d_pdvaNS7N_vhHhIA5rw0qQAtoo2t4pi3T9s2cjCdOMWFCAgi-W9erO6/s320/IMG_3608.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Celebrating the two flags</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We previously did the Male – Phuket voyage in June 2010: a
good but tough-ish trip, with a great additional pair of hands on board in
Brian, but with strong SW monsoon weather in a fairly dreadful storm system
that threw various challenges at us, like: keeping the boat from slewing
sideways down large waves and avoiding the cargo ship that turned into us and,
sick of being sodden and harnessed and shackled onto the helm in our
foul-weather gear for two days, seeking refuge in Sumatra.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That provided background memories to this journey, which was
done in reverse and in a different season, the NE monsoon season. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And what a different trip it was! We have never had such “good”
weather over a two week period… meaning: in general, the winds were from the NE
or E and gave us fair sailing and the sea state was mostly fairly gentle. But
we had a range… there were periods (at the start and again at the end) of
almost no wind and for these periods diesel had to be burned, and then there
were squalls, gale-force at times, but their effect on the sea was short lived.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8b-MjNI2xZd9tL41l2OUhL39sdSNCkzxSA-1RxWa3ugWCooMte6goM1K-0dMalgEyeMIuLfAySYpBw3F-a9cU8LFAemJc8xPjPwPLHYGGHk7J7nQBwFalf4niLvCYxnGMoKRq0Soe3EDV/s1600/IMG_3364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8b-MjNI2xZd9tL41l2OUhL39sdSNCkzxSA-1RxWa3ugWCooMte6goM1K-0dMalgEyeMIuLfAySYpBw3F-a9cU8LFAemJc8xPjPwPLHYGGHk7J7nQBwFalf4niLvCYxnGMoKRq0Soe3EDV/s400/IMG_3364.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Many days created memories of sailing gently and slowly
under the flying screecher sail, music sometimes playing, fish (dorado)committing
themselves to the braai, reading,
scrabble, sleeping during off-watch periods (and sometimes during ‘on watch’….
No names…).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This was our journey: started on the east, headed west (the
cross at the top of Sumatra is where we took refuge last time round) and you
can see the boat icon now in the Maldives.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLGxbVfsd6YIJDe_YiKWWvX85XbOZ2kWK7-xvkeSDZqEwvflZqbMsXncP5mWWyMmKeu_HPcRGEgVL47mXKd_5ukXF39zWBHLwr_LcPgOZIVvtrHH-0Rx1gCGJ26srb9lHIeDnzELuJ7io/s1600/SAM_6375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLGxbVfsd6YIJDe_YiKWWvX85XbOZ2kWK7-xvkeSDZqEwvflZqbMsXncP5mWWyMmKeu_HPcRGEgVL47mXKd_5ukXF39zWBHLwr_LcPgOZIVvtrHH-0Rx1gCGJ26srb9lHIeDnzELuJ7io/s400/SAM_6375.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Phase 1 - Phuket to Nicobar Islands: we found most strange
expanses of turbulent water that we could not explain and which were unsettling
at first (and slowed us down); into phase 2 - west from there we experienced
huge current against us and went south to find more favourable… which we did,
so stayed on that line towards Sri Lanka enjoying the extra knot plus from the
current.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The regular Ketoro crew are kept very busy with sail changes
when the wind is not consistent in speed and direction, so the first week was
very tiring indeed. One night, not wanting to wake Irene, the skipper (kind but
misguided fellow) decided to furl in the screecher on his own as the winds were
becoming too strong for that more-fragile sail. It did not work (euphemism for
bad wrapping, getting knotted and top areas of sail billowing out). We then had
to pull the sail down that night, strap it down to the deck, and deal with it
in daylight (plus Sandy would then also be around to help). <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDl7CiizUS6IMl7dzMDK2DSTovJarTs68lHFfeRd4X14iXd6miF1FRU52T_j6TWtyrGA_oyYkuzeAksk3ky8HiTJzn86njOv0D7hMYW4Q6PWJnjyMZW2O5USxjvu3SbkbeQHBfa5aa0pAK/s1600/SAM_6185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDl7CiizUS6IMl7dzMDK2DSTovJarTs68lHFfeRd4X14iXd6miF1FRU52T_j6TWtyrGA_oyYkuzeAksk3ky8HiTJzn86njOv0D7hMYW4Q6PWJnjyMZW2O5USxjvu3SbkbeQHBfa5aa0pAK/s400/SAM_6185.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandy and Rolf discuss strategy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Want great crew? Call Sandy! She now knows (as do we: a
first for us too) how to unfurl / untangle a sail measuring more than 16m by 10m
along the narrow and heaving deck of a yacht – along the deck and into the
cockpit and out onto the deck the other side…. Oh, and then to re-furl the sail
by hand (with her two assistants). An exercise not to be repeated…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At that stage, big weather in the southern hemisphere gave
us strong swells coming broadside onto us from the south, and that soon gave
rise to two mechanical issues… Rolf to the rescue, head down and bum up in the
engine room and generator room again! Our new engine exhaust placement (for
more quiet in the cockpit) took slamming surges of water and the pressure
pushed water up into the system; if not identified soon enough, it would have
entered the engine itself and that would have seized… aaargh!! Once identified
(this little reference somewhat understates the stress, time and effort the
problems caused) we knew in these rougher seas we would have to start each
engine every two hours for a few minutes to expel any water that had
accumulated in the wet exhaust systems, and it became a routine for the person
on watch until the last few days when seas were flat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGXn-L2lcJmGePJpih4ruVf21snIxlW9SntANNBrH7r3TbRPi1xC4EGJBR9b5m3IZPEkDoQAYV4lLZzCwMyvvktNIAAI56_zpwTpsMIRyn0Oj7gkWEyITqTKsdJTt0nD2SrTSwwSY09dz/s1600/IMG_3293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGXn-L2lcJmGePJpih4ruVf21snIxlW9SntANNBrH7r3TbRPi1xC4EGJBR9b5m3IZPEkDoQAYV4lLZzCwMyvvktNIAAI56_zpwTpsMIRyn0Oj7gkWEyITqTKsdJTt0nD2SrTSwwSY09dz/s400/IMG_3293.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then we had an interesting tension-filled incident: a Sri
Lankan fishing boat on the horizon spotted us and approached at speed and then chased
us (our throttles full forward too) for miles. Unnerved by this first one, we
later realised that they are not necessarily threatening us but seeking
hand-outs (cigarettes and alcohol).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Jq2U3es4kQb4MhZv1t1eHmbEQ2SbCptEhl2pwuaVLZUy3WBc5nJh_Lry-Rc9FUJsQXyJacTeD33R0f6kyokrhAVDu-49Qekxa8nPB_SZZpvM1BfteJzjxNSST1SzIOMyk-b1hfMDP6Zv/s1600/IMG_3377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Jq2U3es4kQb4MhZv1t1eHmbEQ2SbCptEhl2pwuaVLZUy3WBc5nJh_Lry-Rc9FUJsQXyJacTeD33R0f6kyokrhAVDu-49Qekxa8nPB_SZZpvM1BfteJzjxNSST1SzIOMyk-b1hfMDP6Zv/s400/IMG_3377.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>However, whatever our approach to such enriching cultural
interchanges, we cannot have them coming close and bumping our boat (fragile
plastic fantastic vs massive fishing boat: no prizes for guessing who spends
the next year doing expensive repairs) and Rolf worked on his cold and unapproachable
side.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2JR_a9DCmisUG7Kmi6yMX0_5HOB4ipJbmZkDQtv1Cl7ExrJQMAeeOVj_jCzvwM13YyVHucU_swTO-SiySwd9i-uYEs5pQ38uZJq8eOTmxRDaStGFbEUakF7dSEgU_lwUaKQ7tbzfRzhLB/s1600/SAM_6246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2JR_a9DCmisUG7Kmi6yMX0_5HOB4ipJbmZkDQtv1Cl7ExrJQMAeeOVj_jCzvwM13YyVHucU_swTO-SiySwd9i-uYEs5pQ38uZJq8eOTmxRDaStGFbEUakF7dSEgU_lwUaKQ7tbzfRzhLB/s400/SAM_6246.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Also finding that the frame of a paintball gun (without the
bulbous bits) being allowed to be seen while secreted under a towel immediately
cooled the enthusiasm of the pursuers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXmxnXVNTfPUd1TP3JJPsnzSeLnQvQHLuI-Ix23VqvrCn2ggy1GkJNN8nLEeAINkESpaPVCER_QO7bf9kFsd-LwA3VBYGm9G8cg3RIJ0IWEE3idyi2qkPGQ1Z1qS61n8HFgmWOlAIQfnJ5/s1600/IMG_3022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXmxnXVNTfPUd1TP3JJPsnzSeLnQvQHLuI-Ix23VqvrCn2ggy1GkJNN8nLEeAINkESpaPVCER_QO7bf9kFsd-LwA3VBYGm9G8cg3RIJ0IWEE3idyi2qkPGQ1Z1qS61n8HFgmWOlAIQfnJ5/s400/IMG_3022.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normal life continues: re-fuelling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Back to the journey and phase 3: it was at this stage that
we decided to turn south and limit exposure to Sri Lankan fishermen! Just south
of Sri Lanka runs the shipping channel, surprisingly busy with ships thrumming
their paths between the Red Sea and Malacca Straits. The crossing was
straight-forward, done at approximately 90 degrees to the shipping with full
sails and high revs; it took about 5 hours and went with no hitches. Our AIS
identifies ships, their course and speed and warns of potential collisions, and
calling them up by radio when necessary was always met with friendliness and
cooperation. (Our AIS also identifies us to them: wish we had had THAT on our
first crossing in 2010!)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDsJLCc7e95jh4QjSyG4jXEFXBH06c0jyvUwHuEhGAIQh43hjALkqk8zdPm-zN9kMJIozaJcIsyOn_dVxEtDeyzDpqNvsZAeppT6FkY4uPBX4daHy7sIeZjv73epjTaV1IhbWnmpYQIuG7/s1600/IMG_3219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDsJLCc7e95jh4QjSyG4jXEFXBH06c0jyvUwHuEhGAIQh43hjALkqk8zdPm-zN9kMJIozaJcIsyOn_dVxEtDeyzDpqNvsZAeppT6FkY4uPBX4daHy7sIeZjv73epjTaV1IhbWnmpYQIuG7/s400/IMG_3219.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normal life continues: washing day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Continuing south, we only turned west into the last leg to
head for the Maldives when we thought we would be sufficiently south of SL and reasonably
clear of the fishing boats (which is ridiculous, considering we know that they
are chased away from Chagos waters: they travel huge distances). This plan
worked fairly well, and the dreaded experience of fishing boats at night
proved, mostly, unfounded… boats were far apart and little course change was
required. However, on one night we had about 9 boats in a relatively small area
in a few hours. Dodgems on the sea with boats that are built in timber (and
make poor radar targets) and do not have appropriate navigational lights and in
some cases are dragging nets is not fun, and one incident in particular is best
forgotten, with him changing course in front of us, his spotlight waving
frantically, us trying to avoid him and running along the deck with our
spotlight trained on the water to find those offending nets. All ended well.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The last section, closing on our destination in the setting
sun initially provided gentle but workable winds until they died in the last
two days.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsz4HYoBzCr7q7NgSXK92PXvEZPpp5DtkEOobxXOgCvEdkthQw-Dg-HCcaI9rSupW37gKm4U_y6QBz1GBAUvdinPT9KmUo260YieBHandoW6TY02lMuGw4diCjBZh62Mm-9BANUTR3oGc7/s1600/SAM_6291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsz4HYoBzCr7q7NgSXK92PXvEZPpp5DtkEOobxXOgCvEdkthQw-Dg-HCcaI9rSupW37gKm4U_y6QBz1GBAUvdinPT9KmUo260YieBHandoW6TY02lMuGw4diCjBZh62Mm-9BANUTR3oGc7/s400/SAM_6291.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandy toasts a good day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is one good thing about no wind: when engines go off,
the boat simply stops. And the sea was so flat that we simply leapt in: the
water is an astoundingly beautiful royal blue, and the clarity so fantastic
that you feel the ocean bottom, about 4km below you, should be visible! (We confess that
we did not completely let go of the boat.) Of course, we also found it fun
doing this on other days, when the boat was moving slowly…. Holding tight to
the swim-ladder and dragging through the water!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JrUvnaOTRHbqdCgOp1P9choBN4qO7MNGJOf2EsJpDj05O1jrRQeu_A0xboTaIYFXs7DObz3ma6BXBn4uiydIGbiomPJV9rcKE_J-mjl4Q-ziFZiKYGL3R7mPOzSaf3dCz5JyUj6MlMZK/s1600/SAM_6172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JrUvnaOTRHbqdCgOp1P9choBN4qO7MNGJOf2EsJpDj05O1jrRQeu_A0xboTaIYFXs7DObz3ma6BXBn4uiydIGbiomPJV9rcKE_J-mjl4Q-ziFZiKYGL3R7mPOzSaf3dCz5JyUj6MlMZK/s400/SAM_6172.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At this time there was no rain, hence no clouds; the moon
had waned to a tiny sliver… and the sky was a startling black backdrop to a
spectacular star vista, occasionally rewarding us with shooting stars. Simultaneously,
there was considerable bio-luminesence and Ketoro seemed to be floating on
sparkling white cushions.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The biggest highlights: dolphins – playing at the bows,
turning to look at us, leaping out of the water nearby and flinging their
bodies around in joyful abandon. They visited us many times.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3GTz1D1lyaJyFDIBp9aiEyw3jjJjzz61uxb3Uzqceo5m5uzBRklsMAUmPXstD5OfR42zWRXPVo8Sl-XJhJmy3GU5T_qOfLB4IHOewZwUFROHFPHR3rRpt4hwOWzjN0tWkt7MX76Dwv7vJ/s1600/IMG_3072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3GTz1D1lyaJyFDIBp9aiEyw3jjJjzz61uxb3Uzqceo5m5uzBRklsMAUmPXstD5OfR42zWRXPVo8Sl-XJhJmy3GU5T_qOfLB4IHOewZwUFROHFPHR3rRpt4hwOWzjN0tWkt7MX76Dwv7vJ/s400/IMG_3072.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And of course: spectacular sunrises and sunsets. With no
land to distract you, you are very aware of the immensity and beauty of the sky,
its clouds, and all its colours and faces. Plus, its colours are repeated in
the water below, so there is nothing to beat a sunrise or sunset at sea!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFzHZiY4w4HxVmPrfNlG2bYeWglsE46kyizCiTUvDXKQ06FyStA70D-vg-EDcJMZbQGrmjxvsWvhB3rb2u0AcnD2gxwlYp1l2czk_mJu3mM_gO1EREX2JMBxwW7KwQOuiyCGd3Aoq67t39/s1600/IMG_3209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFzHZiY4w4HxVmPrfNlG2bYeWglsE46kyizCiTUvDXKQ06FyStA70D-vg-EDcJMZbQGrmjxvsWvhB3rb2u0AcnD2gxwlYp1l2czk_mJu3mM_gO1EREX2JMBxwW7KwQOuiyCGd3Aoq67t39/s400/IMG_3209.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZi7UITldXnOz63S_wArPPxpmF37v0FDAhEhod2JU0PM3mDh4AiU5hhwJIVHUki4YVdUEBoLdcS_Gv2eI_fSTksHMgVu2COBGjN5h4b7K_zujIFlnP33MqZukLzXASFulMWIxL9w_JstS/s1600/IMG_3278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZi7UITldXnOz63S_wArPPxpmF37v0FDAhEhod2JU0PM3mDh4AiU5hhwJIVHUki4YVdUEBoLdcS_Gv2eI_fSTksHMgVu2COBGjN5h4b7K_zujIFlnP33MqZukLzXASFulMWIxL9w_JstS/s400/IMG_3278.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sandy, great friend, turns out to be great crew too: Rolf
says she is a keeper! Oh: also a great photographer… many of these pics are
hers. Sharing watches and galley duties and general boat chores with a third
person awards many more rest hours to us, and makes a passaging experience so
much more pleasant. We came into the Maldives less exhausted than imagined
after a two-week ocean crossing… and it helped as we had to wait and drift
around aimlessly in anticipation of the officialdom that arrived to make our
stay legal.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLw4ZAgxVIHvZkFD-CTLaZei-L1BIjDZOS_e7Mz6MXIpFhgf_Db7WgZqQLsqn4-U-bfBOSONobE5eczGLzZZ8rI5fDBe7i8j-9vAUlHrsRWUiint91rfoah0ZzCq8DcDOLIVCiNTX7Luvk/s1600/SAM_6314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLw4ZAgxVIHvZkFD-CTLaZei-L1BIjDZOS_e7Mz6MXIpFhgf_Db7WgZqQLsqn4-U-bfBOSONobE5eczGLzZZ8rI5fDBe7i8j-9vAUlHrsRWUiint91rfoah0ZzCq8DcDOLIVCiNTX7Luvk/s400/SAM_6314.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here they are, we are now legal, we are ready to cruise the
Maldives!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVP0KdolYL5t25rIaJn82zebAxyX_NcQk8bGSpQ2V1TW61APtwNQzB6aq1o1Pyq_d6wbKUW6yQJb2rcRz-Pdgak-J486c7Xr16v9XN0WSL3Sf7xKQk1_BxUdszHhu7ITghQJSClWmUs8V/s1600/IMG_3331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVP0KdolYL5t25rIaJn82zebAxyX_NcQk8bGSpQ2V1TW61APtwNQzB6aq1o1Pyq_d6wbKUW6yQJb2rcRz-Pdgak-J486c7Xr16v9XN0WSL3Sf7xKQk1_BxUdszHhu7ITghQJSClWmUs8V/s400/IMG_3331.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-26151575848165939592013-02-23T19:06:00.002+02:002013-02-23T19:06:11.367+02:00Here we go again<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
We are off again… crossing that ocean to get back to South
Africa, with the intention of using it as a stepping stone to South America.
But of course, with our arrival in SA only about nine months from now, South
America is a long way off and those plans are ephemeral at best.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What! 9 months to get to SA? So to explain ourselves here is
the picture of the voyage, with a brief description.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUp9hyphenhyphenA2WlJOWPpTRM8cyhXMDFQnJ1OZn-hU6AZF1IOleJ4da3P6xo5yPIsOBRPzQ8AiVhdDFUK2kD4tNO9sxxKGb_n_10El28SKCYFQIj9siPT3kWwEP9y2LgTIvp4yxRJ7PgpCRcNGy5/s1600/SAM_6139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="451" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUp9hyphenhyphenA2WlJOWPpTRM8cyhXMDFQnJ1OZn-hU6AZF1IOleJ4da3P6xo5yPIsOBRPzQ8AiVhdDFUK2kD4tNO9sxxKGb_n_10El28SKCYFQIj9siPT3kWwEP9y2LgTIvp4yxRJ7PgpCRcNGy5/s640/SAM_6139.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>There are 4 main legs to the route we have chosen across the
Indian Ocean: Phuket to the Maldives, Maldives to Chagos, Chagos to Mauritius
and finally Mauritius to SA.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leg 1 is timed to use the winds of the NE monsoon season
(blowing from the NE), which hopefully will mean that in general we will not
get wind “on the nose” that we have to bash into. This leg will be done in the
last week of Feb / first two weeks in March.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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This grib chart (below) shows the weather in that first leg predicted for 24
February: wind indicated by small arrows, blue patches show rain. The cursor (showing
where we are going, roughly) and associated detail on the left clearly shows
almost no wind in that area… <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEiGPcQlyuAJv9CwgleukWcX9w_O4-cerzN1Wk12RyZvwd3fByMXK1pL1KaYRXiveFoT_sJqmbJCDC7oBhSmKkP8u502a9GIhA9KeJ67yfMULpzOnX4CnHqQOlkCtnIHLm4sF8BOujUG7/s1600/SAM_6143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="337" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEiGPcQlyuAJv9CwgleukWcX9w_O4-cerzN1Wk12RyZvwd3fByMXK1pL1KaYRXiveFoT_sJqmbJCDC7oBhSmKkP8u502a9GIhA9KeJ67yfMULpzOnX4CnHqQOlkCtnIHLm4sF8BOujUG7/s640/SAM_6143.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
for situations like this, we have made provision….</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31auBs78rcDmQBOjixhZOGU3ZEVyFzZs5STAJvwasCW4whvfwATzASePhAWnf_rlUVdKpvKuf1my9beq8-YSAEzyBvCLVy8GqRnGSDxZBI4aGEsk6y7XDk-Ia4l5xkfmA9ouMTnEOxZki/s1600/SAM_6082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31auBs78rcDmQBOjixhZOGU3ZEVyFzZs5STAJvwasCW4whvfwATzASePhAWnf_rlUVdKpvKuf1my9beq8-YSAEzyBvCLVy8GqRnGSDxZBI4aGEsk6y7XDk-Ia4l5xkfmA9ouMTnEOxZki/s400/SAM_6082.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Yes, an additional 20 jerry cans of diesel, secured along
the back walkway and in lockers, which we are hoping NOT to use!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On the other hand, we see a cyclone developing SW of
Sumatra. This system draws in all the wind from elsewhere, and we may end up
with absolutely nothing; on the other hand, it could move up and give us wind…
but it may just be in the wrong direction and it may just be uncomfortably
strong. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The prediction for next Thursday however is this:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkHXqTDn9DGX0sQyoeBovsn9oR35X6cRUdkMbVynmfJvg6XU_APnAG22gkIu6NUURU-tJuqkeJc0yhLRtPulkHEzrlRv5a_1hG4eKoVZTtDmh0MDJ04mYjREkYqKwIFANaIgB8pK-HkUli/s1600/SAM_6109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkHXqTDn9DGX0sQyoeBovsn9oR35X6cRUdkMbVynmfJvg6XU_APnAG22gkIu6NUURU-tJuqkeJc0yhLRtPulkHEzrlRv5a_1hG4eKoVZTtDmh0MDJ04mYjREkYqKwIFANaIgB8pK-HkUli/s640/SAM_6109.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We will be at the red dot, approximately: reasonable winds
but very, very wet. Once we are out there, of course, we just do the best we
can with what we find.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leg 2, Maldives to Chagos, is short (about 3 days) and
generally easy. To be done after a month travelling down from mid-Maldives to
the southernmost atoll, enjoying just cruising.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leg 3 takes us to Mauritius. We will try to go via
Rodrigues, but may not get there if the winds have too much of a South component. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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On 17 Feb, this was the weather in that general area of the
Indian Ocean:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqx-BOUPSir44H5dhsnOO27cOZqJiO0GWzj27-WUnOWWW0kZrW6yRXDIRKueEC158ruO4lUns5Xpgsr9023RcOPvB2qHJ-LHP0VLakDy5YC8_qwasafvEGRIfxflRkZlEQu35nhhCsDAY/s1600/SAM_6065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqx-BOUPSir44H5dhsnOO27cOZqJiO0GWzj27-WUnOWWW0kZrW6yRXDIRKueEC158ruO4lUns5Xpgsr9023RcOPvB2qHJ-LHP0VLakDy5YC8_qwasafvEGRIfxflRkZlEQu35nhhCsDAY/s640/SAM_6065.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>UGH! The detail shows 60knot winds in a cyclone just off
Madagascar, and a storm front approaching from SA…. And they both moved towards
Mauritius: You do NOT want to be in that ocean!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This 3<sup>rd</sup> leg therefore cannot be done before the cyclone
season south of the equator (and over Mauritius) has ended, hopefully by mid
May. The timing of legs 1 and 3 dictate a stay in Chagos, but BIOT (British
India Ocean Territories) only provides a one-month permit to visit Chagos,
sometimes making it difficult for sailors if there is an unfavourable weather
system ahead of them and they need refuge.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leg 4 (Mauritius to SA, after hopefully a quick visit to
Reunion) should not be done while there is still chance of big storms coming
round the cape and up the east side of SA, therefore cannot be undertaken
before about October, which dictates a long stay in Mauritius.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So. Weather dictates our progress, but we look forward to
the forced stop-overs in Maldives, Chagos and Mauritius as opportunities to
explore and in some cases have friends and family do some exploring with us.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our hope is that we are NOT dictated to by boat problems,
and at this stage we believe Ketoro to be sea-worthy. A complete set of new
house batteries, new starter motor and regulator, all less than a week before
departure, amongst many other mechanical interventions, will hopefully ensure
that.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This work was done at Yacht Haven Marina, far north in
Phuket, and this was Rolf’s view from half-way up the mast when Irene winched
him up there to fix the fore-deck light (for night-time sail changes and deck
work at sea) and install a new horn.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZshrLTv-8lZ45sSzaY_zd4p_zpyP2nYd7-y39kjD4L8oAq3Ua3fOXd5G9941ETene7Y-k2qt2G-uAWrzejc3kDwSGkxUhO6tIlfoBKXpYNCJKQk8-9c_uMTnMH4sr2LbNxZYPooaeot2S/s1600/SAM_6106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZshrLTv-8lZ45sSzaY_zd4p_zpyP2nYd7-y39kjD4L8oAq3Ua3fOXd5G9941ETene7Y-k2qt2G-uAWrzejc3kDwSGkxUhO6tIlfoBKXpYNCJKQk8-9c_uMTnMH4sr2LbNxZYPooaeot2S/s400/SAM_6106.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhERdiGdZBXDh8ktHdQ4HRPm0BVlOS0DVhs3a9pf5Nwn5CgO3J2hEwYgjPHdQ5SPZAq1EHwHWalGZ6F9QxnSDmU7MajId5DItrp6A1-mL-KfMJk0jP0G9p-UcHKCmAG6EV6qaN0JJ7OkxKf/s1600/SAM_6103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhERdiGdZBXDh8ktHdQ4HRPm0BVlOS0DVhs3a9pf5Nwn5CgO3J2hEwYgjPHdQ5SPZAq1EHwHWalGZ6F9QxnSDmU7MajId5DItrp6A1-mL-KfMJk0jP0G9p-UcHKCmAG6EV6qaN0JJ7OkxKf/s400/SAM_6103.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And this was Irene’s zoomed-in view of Rolf:</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB4FchCcLi9bZ3vW_uLz-UL1ZaI8llZsXtUJu37U9vzObsS3uYoPPBU3jotCOam-tl2Hjtv4Ot8lNYfgdN1K0h2bkFyrdHbdFcGwigQwD4Q9F9P6nd6fPLOAR2yWqEV3RZcTLxL-q7ExVK/s1600/SAM_6099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB4FchCcLi9bZ3vW_uLz-UL1ZaI8llZsXtUJu37U9vzObsS3uYoPPBU3jotCOam-tl2Hjtv4Ot8lNYfgdN1K0h2bkFyrdHbdFcGwigQwD4Q9F9P6nd6fPLOAR2yWqEV3RZcTLxL-q7ExVK/s400/SAM_6099.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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At this stage his bum was really sore and he was using his
feet and toes to shift weight (as is monkeys’ wont): my request to send down
the bag to hoist up the camera and remain up there, get creative and photograph
his environs was somewhat growled at…!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We have also worked hard to fill Ketoro with provisions… if
you were to come on board, you would probably laugh and roll your eyes,
particularly at this sight:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirep3O2f1I8Bd8LFKcZkDGNTRzjeSwemAiIiwQUsqeS3BE1DqDZg97eWbmc1kQy5FCo28kLs1j4Xij9m5dk7136BgxpHNXVz2ZzdUJlirGxVPIG3fZ1hIEJ4u1bL10GKfPu38MbhY8EKLl/s1600/SAM_6078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirep3O2f1I8Bd8LFKcZkDGNTRzjeSwemAiIiwQUsqeS3BE1DqDZg97eWbmc1kQy5FCo28kLs1j4Xij9m5dk7136BgxpHNXVz2ZzdUJlirGxVPIG3fZ1hIEJ4u1bL10GKfPu38MbhY8EKLl/s400/SAM_6078.JPG" width="225" /></a></div>
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This was the forward cabin, just starting to take shape as a
storeroom, but already providing essential needs: the box of red wine centre
back, the drinks cans dotted around (these supplement those at the bottom of
all the other lockers), the spare water pump and white bag which contains spare
toilet macerator, fan blasting air into the jam-packed back locker (found
mould, didn’t we!?) and…. Drum roll… huge bags of corn flakes and coco pops!!
Ok, so our insistence on kids’ cereals is shooting ourselves in the foot in
terms of storage, but cereal people are cereal people and they will make a plan
to get their coco pops (won’t they, Rolf!?)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our first provisioning trip to Macro rewarded us with 3 huge
trolleys and a till slip that was longer than Irene is tall.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHQZcwVJxSP1B8JNJRw0Pg2XKhv90oKPglR_RFoxQftbd5AjmNLyvqR05BCOskbBOjGPFvS5LkPjB2Ujih37yStxa01QJKqaScMSON5HPhMCQSYtGM99K6A71UoEkunMa5vI2MbaOeGcn/s1600/SAM_5069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHQZcwVJxSP1B8JNJRw0Pg2XKhv90oKPglR_RFoxQftbd5AjmNLyvqR05BCOskbBOjGPFvS5LkPjB2Ujih37yStxa01QJKqaScMSON5HPhMCQSYtGM99K6A71UoEkunMa5vI2MbaOeGcn/s400/SAM_5069.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">Rolf with part of our first provisioning-trip supplies</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The stuff all had to go somewhere. While we unpacked lockers
to put layers of tins and cans at the base and then repack, we found that our
system of storage has until now been pretty erratic. So started a major “spring
clean”. That means storage of foodstuff, medicines, electricals, tools,
adhesives…. You name it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And of course that spring clean found the mould in the
locker above. This is a very dry deep-storage locker: duvets, sleeping bags,
hiking boots, extra pillows etc have been safe there for 3 years. Further
investigation of the mould revealed…. Aaaargh! Water! Saturated sleeping bags!
Moulded boots! The finger-tip taste test revealed salt. Happily, it was nothing
more than a leak in the water pipes that feed through this locker to cool the
generator and 24 hours later (and a boat festooned with dozens of odd drying
items and Rolfs work on leak identification and repair and subsequent drying
out of locker)… the deep-storage dry locker was good to go! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Well, so are we.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So: a quick trip to lovely Phuket town<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhks-kvLIe0BXPVeZ9XypcUIGH5FqP9hPg-_ZKJ9dESffZg50R6dYv9RL_Ow6mu-Li97sk_pRQ-KjDOZXKebbORAA841gpVglaVWXvfFzNvuqz1FeKmnoSGq1KAD5EUDEO78sLVOBNTfEgx/s1600/SAM_6113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhks-kvLIe0BXPVeZ9XypcUIGH5FqP9hPg-_ZKJ9dESffZg50R6dYv9RL_Ow6mu-Li97sk_pRQ-KjDOZXKebbORAA841gpVglaVWXvfFzNvuqz1FeKmnoSGq1KAD5EUDEO78sLVOBNTfEgx/s400/SAM_6113.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
to enjoy the contrasts provided by newly-renovated old
buildings</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2VcPlqF2g2XrmsHI2jCGxv-_KvchAhjMQXt_NMfcnqJEZhcswfMCUb11dDXtPfeFOFRwAhmR9rTbFGvhEn8VHppcEyLq-Y8Uf9tj4kOYCYq1ez_-iZ3BA4sOT8GMbTYRu89EYH0SPnWi/s1600/SAM_6133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2VcPlqF2g2XrmsHI2jCGxv-_KvchAhjMQXt_NMfcnqJEZhcswfMCUb11dDXtPfeFOFRwAhmR9rTbFGvhEn8VHppcEyLq-Y8Uf9tj4kOYCYq1ez_-iZ3BA4sOT8GMbTYRu89EYH0SPnWi/s400/SAM_6133.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
and a quick reminder of the great market food stalls</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUCnnh6G_6xbbvWlI65jrBm9lmkGPy6dzR_k3CTxizskJKdm_J0tiPphFJPXq1AJRgO0VivMkPTR-o9KKIp_cLh0sNGoHGqVDIHITb2KwHnb66gXkrBgDI22PbF07HrmsUzz4np-ljMa4m/s1600/SAM_6137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUCnnh6G_6xbbvWlI65jrBm9lmkGPy6dzR_k3CTxizskJKdm_J0tiPphFJPXq1AJRgO0VivMkPTR-o9KKIp_cLh0sNGoHGqVDIHITb2KwHnb66gXkrBgDI22PbF07HrmsUzz4np-ljMa4m/s400/SAM_6137.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bye for now! We will upload the next blog when we are in the
Maldives, but until then you can follow our progress across the ocean by
clicking on the link on the right.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is a huge ocean out there, and it is an extraordinary
privilege to have such close contact with it. It is at times exceptionally
beautiful, at times not; at times benevolent, at times definitely not so. We
will be well - we will be sailing! Enjoying the good and getting through the less
pleasant, we will make the most of the experience of the open ocean again. <o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-61667830006544517512013-02-19T01:35:00.000+02:002013-02-19T01:42:18.591+02:00 On board our boat<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We have just had Mark, Livi and little Blake on board, so of
course we would like to write about it and thought, for those of our friends
who have not yet visited us, that we would like to give them a picture of what
it is like to live on board our boat.<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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And since we took the family down the magnificent west coast
of Phuket then up into Phang Nga Bay, we would be guided by the photos and make
it a picture-story. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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So, of course, we went to the photographs to use them as a
base and weave the tale around them. But… well, this is pretty ridiculous!!
Magnificent scenic shots? Sunsets? No… All the photographs are of a baby!<o:p></o:p></div>
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So now we have to confess that this tale of life on Ketoro
is from the perspective of a 6-month old; future visitors, please be not
afraid: the boat caters for adult visitors quite comfortably, and you will not,
for example, have to…<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
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Bath in the galley sink on the first night, after your late flight;<o:p></o:p></div>
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We will provide other lovely bathing circumstances for you;<o:p></o:p></div>
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You will not be restricted in your movement around the boat (but we can make it safe for you too…).</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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You may do a bit of driving,</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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You will be treated to dinghy rides, and if you examine your circumstances we hope you will be at peace with it all!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixghioH-1-bjldXe7uaNafJZtXG1yl23pLxaSHva5qbruDqpjqszvo-kZd8AkKdVv4UzK15eLGuh00VkYW2nV-dxfu_ixbDsV4E1sbZaxT0hpGv_q3YD2ehr4DHJkEbIZl-5Yawk7RWA-X/s1600/SAM_5807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixghioH-1-bjldXe7uaNafJZtXG1yl23pLxaSHva5qbruDqpjqszvo-kZd8AkKdVv4UzK15eLGuh00VkYW2nV-dxfu_ixbDsV4E1sbZaxT0hpGv_q3YD2ehr4DHJkEbIZl-5Yawk7RWA-X/s400/SAM_5807.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
(but we are not sure if, for you, we will stretch to lounger up
front in the dinghy, with cold-pack for your back and parasol for shade);<br />
<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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And we will provide the wherewithal for all your other needs
(so what is wrong with these teethers?)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MG1TKWBPCz4O1Qfp1iOgRALthepvmcNnJ2sOz-4PAuXquzLpwik6Vd3CAjEBFQBsnk9VQRkyQDKCriQARlDwApGiNwP562Iv6M2jUwP4l019IKFBx_ZgE43JVkgVoIYRr9zK0M1Z09rn/s1600/IMGP2895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MG1TKWBPCz4O1Qfp1iOgRALthepvmcNnJ2sOz-4PAuXquzLpwik6Vd3CAjEBFQBsnk9VQRkyQDKCriQARlDwApGiNwP562Iv6M2jUwP4l019IKFBx_ZgE43JVkgVoIYRr9zK0M1Z09rn/s400/IMGP2895.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Hopefully the background of the photos show adequately the
crystal-clear water, beautiful scenery and lovely eateries which we try to show our
visitors…. Whether or not they are able to appreciate it!<br />
<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Of course, on board our boat there will invariably be work
needing to be done; in this case, amongst others, Mark was required to help
Rolf change props underwater, <o:p></o:p></div>
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and the boys spent many hours in the port engine-room.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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This means they spent many hours under the port bunk in the
cabin, which of course means that on board our boat it is not always a
certainty that your cabin will be entirely yours for the duration of your stay!<br />
<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Along with tales of boats at sea, sometimes there are
unfortunate stories to be narrated of marine creatures defending their
territory from us, the invaders. This time it was Irene who had an unfortunate
encounter: with a jellyfish, or rather: the extremely long tentacle of one. On board, we did the best we could to denature the
toxin initially with vinegar and heat, but it turned out we simply
did not have adequate pain killers or other meds to deal with the symptoms
brought about by the toxins that affected nerves, muscles and joints. We are,
however, blessed to have friends on shore, and JJ came to the rescue with a
longtail boat and then his car to whisk us away to hospital where they
addressed the inadequacies of the med kit on Ketoro!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
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During the final week of Blake’s stay, we watched the stars
and nightly saw the new moon begin to fill…<o:p></o:p></div>
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Bitter-sweet for us, for at the next full moon we will be on
our boat, sailing away from Thailand finally.<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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So you will have to come and join us at our next
destination… come on board our boat, and claim your own Ketoro cap! <o:p></o:p></div>
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In fact, if you come to Mauritius but are worried that you
have no sea legs, rest assured: the net to surround the boat lies in wait for
the visit of two perhaps newly-walking tots, and will be there for you too!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-23238640039175679122013-01-29T08:19:00.000+02:002013-01-29T08:19:20.165+02:00Cape Town beckons<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Cape Town just cannot be beaten.<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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We may be a tad biased, as it is home for us, but every time
we return this judgement is reinforced. So we keep going back: flying in for
Christmas 2012 and a family reunion, we are also soon to commence our long sail
back there… and know that the appeal of our destination will sustain us on the
journey. And for all our yachtie friends
and contacts also on their way there: allow Cape Town enough time in your SA stop-over to get to appreciate the
multitude of experiences the Cape offers.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Cape Town, December 2012: WOW. The Cape hosted the happiest
of family reunions, with focus being on the first “meeting” of our two
almost-6-month grandchildren. Such incredible joy for the new grandparents.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Obliging babies that they are, they did not hold us back as
we sampled many Cape highlights: spectacular scenery,</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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old towns with fascinating history, coffee and craft shops,</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFyimjcZo9qNukpsRSIikPna3MYBROsmAMEAUDr0MF3HRtkv16RJjU6CKP3Lby67JtFuBI9_0QqY7z15P2XDdTXDhgaPPTStQfrb1OVxS699TbY4fr5Ihl7H-Puf1KveU5WbAOIv9nbctf/s1600/SAM_5393.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFyimjcZo9qNukpsRSIikPna3MYBROsmAMEAUDr0MF3HRtkv16RJjU6CKP3Lby67JtFuBI9_0QqY7z15P2XDdTXDhgaPPTStQfrb1OVxS699TbY4fr5Ihl7H-Puf1KveU5WbAOIv9nbctf/s400/SAM_5393.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p> </o:p>wine farms providing beautiful settings and wonderful
beverage that will attempt to distract you from your responsibilities!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OYPgQc_7XlsQBrTDywBjZNN9X65D0XuO8ZZEmdziTeTT9yJQQyZZbjI0UJJnBKLO4atQ2vhrQCuo2U46gKj2CKiBcEsymDNvMx3PxNCaJihskAHoYp32gcK5gfvRo2JBHUFQ9q6ctkvj/s1600/IMG_3622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6OYPgQc_7XlsQBrTDywBjZNN9X65D0XuO8ZZEmdziTeTT9yJQQyZZbjI0UJJnBKLO4atQ2vhrQCuo2U46gKj2CKiBcEsymDNvMx3PxNCaJihskAHoYp32gcK5gfvRo2JBHUFQ9q6ctkvj/s400/IMG_3622.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZs0leduTmlzJ0hhQm1J1AYpyd-K0jM2WYkN0dEMv7PGigQCDylJ2-lKuQ4yn4lUCgsVRmR_IzJ72LYolBOGfv15n7p-7sFKNwKALkpsQqXPxOfsLPD8TLZm9aUZ8N5ojiqXoC9dAfBRY/s1600/SAM_5160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZs0leduTmlzJ0hhQm1J1AYpyd-K0jM2WYkN0dEMv7PGigQCDylJ2-lKuQ4yn4lUCgsVRmR_IzJ72LYolBOGfv15n7p-7sFKNwKALkpsQqXPxOfsLPD8TLZm9aUZ8N5ojiqXoC9dAfBRY/s400/SAM_5160.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p> </o:p>Kirstenbosch botanical gardens provide hours of peaceful
walks, picnics and concerts,</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiw_RTwbt8YpQFVlxmakfXIzftCbegjbBTX7AMdufuXJhXy9_rh9akX9-Z3hS5PpV5zkh0f6FyPVzJAu6Xr4ntfYmKkLP7Bf_DgE42JaqXW1UtkjEoyT_1cmS9VAigW9BnHnyM8Fsdtrkr/s1600/IMG_1985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiw_RTwbt8YpQFVlxmakfXIzftCbegjbBTX7AMdufuXJhXy9_rh9akX9-Z3hS5PpV5zkh0f6FyPVzJAu6Xr4ntfYmKkLP7Bf_DgE42JaqXW1UtkjEoyT_1cmS9VAigW9BnHnyM8Fsdtrkr/s400/IMG_1985.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXnkDT_vwgfj4H_E6RNrwf677LxbzVA96EUgC6ZWMCxXaeIRd83GH2uehVyZGHSwCQu40-DONxaDpspWzmE0qJsxxQb9tJt_FeBx_uyRoVXL9Igk4DcfQ-7SG4aHfbjRiDnCWhNCM0j1Q7/s1600/SAM_5552+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXnkDT_vwgfj4H_E6RNrwf677LxbzVA96EUgC6ZWMCxXaeIRd83GH2uehVyZGHSwCQu40-DONxaDpspWzmE0qJsxxQb9tJt_FeBx_uyRoVXL9Igk4DcfQ-7SG4aHfbjRiDnCWhNCM0j1Q7/s400/SAM_5552+(2).JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p>... w</o:p>hile beautiful white-sand beaches and waterfront areas
never let you down (given this was a first-time beach experience for a 6-month
old!) Here, a scene to remind us where we will be from November 2013, when Ketoro gets us to Cape Town again.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIrWRvdEOHo_BfABrDn3k1dQixtewimkVpXG33ht6o7u1RtX5rrnnrvlrynsw8Bh8xVq4k8lwdwC3xXpIsO9bfaWZKgp0vr2vD-c8vf6R1fsIOL28lQDSqfdytGexBMX8jS77C7Uq6uj5G/s1600/IMG_2021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIrWRvdEOHo_BfABrDn3k1dQixtewimkVpXG33ht6o7u1RtX5rrnnrvlrynsw8Bh8xVq4k8lwdwC3xXpIsO9bfaWZKgp0vr2vD-c8vf6R1fsIOL28lQDSqfdytGexBMX8jS77C7Uq6uj5G/s400/IMG_2021.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqDEhYdYIZs_M0YotnQ7QAUC0hvkBAmMJpBYZvPccF4mlhvFTAeSSXaeGwFAJdAfxoIqoTjL0RzZyXZNO5towc3886LOcOZtIp379wzrS1osE5pi1Wa1xqEKayz34XsOAvDZ1fet2vYeoR/s1600/IMG_3481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqDEhYdYIZs_M0YotnQ7QAUC0hvkBAmMJpBYZvPccF4mlhvFTAeSSXaeGwFAJdAfxoIqoTjL0RzZyXZNO5towc3886LOcOZtIp379wzrS1osE5pi1Wa1xqEKayz34XsOAvDZ1fet2vYeoR/s400/IMG_3481.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Meanwhile, we are preparing for the trip and taking every
opportunity to get the most out of our last month in Phuket, our travel base (“home”)
for almost three years.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Having made full use of a stable berth at Yacht Haven Marina
for a few days, we were reminded of the ease of marina stays during two subsequent
weekends when friends came to spend their days on Ketoro. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUihoibSEaXItu-Z4g8VOqsewzw2hbrS0_MBz1cE3doq856HVCLHO0JwJ3cgnpg5GwGHU7cLKhmMEFYcELAEInNmaNaecB3zZacQIHytP24m7em_99ligsw4Aq-9uVeKHRFXHb3NVsbgeC/s1600/SAM_5685.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUihoibSEaXItu-Z4g8VOqsewzw2hbrS0_MBz1cE3doq856HVCLHO0JwJ3cgnpg5GwGHU7cLKhmMEFYcELAEInNmaNaecB3zZacQIHytP24m7em_99ligsw4Aq-9uVeKHRFXHb3NVsbgeC/s400/SAM_5685.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p> </o:p>The sea was quite big and Nai Harn bay, our anchorage, is notorious
for not allowing easy dinghy landings ashore, through the surf. The photo above
shows the view of the beach on a peaceful day, while that below, of Ketoro from
shore, gives the picture of those few days…</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJb0kBV2DCo5TpkR01mp2HWUrtZ5Udqfjwib1exBe6UoiEyj9Anxw972u2D8SGt8Av6DB6fWKGy8a77q9BIu1ASUsYNasWVHIgR3VbQT0NAigvSAD5TulqAmBZVq5rcAvXJJlRRb4Xuzg2/s1600/DSC_0256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJb0kBV2DCo5TpkR01mp2HWUrtZ5Udqfjwib1exBe6UoiEyj9Anxw972u2D8SGt8Av6DB6fWKGy8a77q9BIu1ASUsYNasWVHIgR3VbQT0NAigvSAD5TulqAmBZVq5rcAvXJJlRRb4Xuzg2/s400/DSC_0256.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The first day’s foray to shore for dinner had Irene wring
out her dress before proceeding with dignity to dinner, which had a magnificent
view of para-sailors over the bay and our boat.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVknDh2kZqajiVJiDhnr_iMV6aUcD6enunf6Y2mF1f2ZPdiUVI6z8OXNyxthkI0VdjGZeu6glYbnnkeQ3Gt6BmeZIE2ktROCQcYEoJ53JFDS3z0cbbpjKeU2eENMwE0dicFuNxKZ_Pney/s1600/DSC_0031+com.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVknDh2kZqajiVJiDhnr_iMV6aUcD6enunf6Y2mF1f2ZPdiUVI6z8OXNyxthkI0VdjGZeu6glYbnnkeQ3Gt6BmeZIE2ktROCQcYEoJ53JFDS3z0cbbpjKeU2eENMwE0dicFuNxKZ_Pney/s400/DSC_0031+com.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p> </o:p>The two days of getting the friends and their stuff off the
shore via the dinghy, and later returned to land had its moments; finally all
were safe but none got there dry. Getting to and from shore by dinghy is never elegant or dignified: the term dinghified is understood by all cruisers!</div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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A day later, two dinghies went ashore at dusk (us and
another loaded with 3 guys) with the seas large and building; lovely local
dinner, then we had to get back to our boats in the dark; my nerves had been
building for some time, too, as I listened to the waves crashing. One of the
big guys helped Rolf and me hold the nose of our dinghy into the waves and we
made it over the shore break with only a few bucking-bronco moments to
reminisce over later. We waited in the swells and wondered why the other dinghy
was taking so long, but finally saw it doddering along nearby: it was sitting
VERY low in the water..... One of the breakers had swept the dinghy-driver
right off the dinghy, then while the others were hauling him back on board they
were swamped by another wave, resulting in a dinghy weighed down by tonnage of
male species and water. Then the motor cut out. Anyway, we managed to tow them
to their boat and all ended fine … but wet again!<o:p></o:p></div>
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The beautiful coastline of Phuket is often fantastic just enjoyed from the boat without even getting to shore.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8dGbwSPdnBRz6q8rBPPXg0XzZmA0aaSOezM3PgKrCquffF9hbDlDitkd3lfw2gwnXwoPqedHGkUb9ZlB98_HrQNnmFgT7Q9L8SLAtd58Kekfg93m-EDBpKFAQeOdkdDgIbubhPd9-_kVn/s1600/SAM_5711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8dGbwSPdnBRz6q8rBPPXg0XzZmA0aaSOezM3PgKrCquffF9hbDlDitkd3lfw2gwnXwoPqedHGkUb9ZlB98_HrQNnmFgT7Q9L8SLAtd58Kekfg93m-EDBpKFAQeOdkdDgIbubhPd9-_kVn/s400/SAM_5711.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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It is easy to anchor off a picturesque area like this one and simply swim across to a lovely snorkeling spot.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVd9wwbos0u9Oflyf6CdmyZ4a1sJmaIbRFMblWXrBXkbproQcTRqsFFsUw_Wi7SVRcK_8CQRJ1BpF5njAtKDx5a-JVsODF7hH4IR9X5VL7BJUPwAihkh2VIo9ISsZyEdyRhsdwAXLeJhx/s1600/DSC02939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVd9wwbos0u9Oflyf6CdmyZ4a1sJmaIbRFMblWXrBXkbproQcTRqsFFsUw_Wi7SVRcK_8CQRJ1BpF5njAtKDx5a-JVsODF7hH4IR9X5VL7BJUPwAihkh2VIo9ISsZyEdyRhsdwAXLeJhx/s400/DSC02939.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<o:p> </o:p>However, that once provided challenges: similarly anchored
off a headland, we were placed between two beaches made colourful with umbrellas,
swimmers and jet-skiers. We were about to swim to the rocky headland for
exploration, when a jet-ski astonished us with a mind-boggling display of anti-social
stupidity. He raced towards the boat and slewed sideways immediately behind us,
accurately sending a wall of water over the whole cockpit area and toward the
saloon, wetting table top and cushions, before racing to shore and
relinquishing the jetski: his turn done for the day. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Our turn was, too; after
mopping up we decided it was safer to simply dip in the water under the boat
and enjoy a drink on deck, looking west over the sea: beautiful island
sundowners again! (While Rolf amused
himself with resurrecting the paint ball gun and loading it with equally
anti-social solid balls.)</div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Setting off into the ocean again, this time heading towards
that setting sun, requires that we be as ready as we were when we first left
SA, so we have been going through everything again: all the meds, the safety
equipment, the communications equipment, the mechanical systems, you name it;
it takes a very long time, but we are crawling to the finish line of the
preparation: at which stage we will be at the start line for the long journey.
Details of our passage planning will be on the blog before we go…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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But before then, we have a grandson coming to find some sea
legs on Ketoro, so we have been doing a different sort of stocking and sorting for
the next few weeks…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-T5BCc1brm_eln_quR6uOCTiYgUHaavegLWQSjp4rQGyjm2jj-WGRkgj33c_SF8ISkeOe5FTEGgHZSOFKvRdyLjfg-RyGmJfn40qkXzYtcqbolW7dD9E8o_RRwuABjeefKtMhkScbhsdb/s1600/SAM_5736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-T5BCc1brm_eln_quR6uOCTiYgUHaavegLWQSjp4rQGyjm2jj-WGRkgj33c_SF8ISkeOe5FTEGgHZSOFKvRdyLjfg-RyGmJfn40qkXzYtcqbolW7dD9E8o_RRwuABjeefKtMhkScbhsdb/s400/SAM_5736.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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New and old territories for us: boat netting for the sides, nappies,
baby food, blow-up baby pool / bath and toys; all placed on a 70s-knit baby
blanket, with story books we used for our children.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Also in the picture: the story of Able Seaman Just Nuisance,
the Great Dane who joined the SA Navy in 1939, a part of Simons Town’s history to
see when going to the beautiful Cape. <o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-31363216737160293922012-12-05T09:47:00.000+02:002012-12-05T09:58:11.053+02:00Picture-perfect Phang-Nga Bay<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
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Between Phuket Island and the Thailand mainland lies <span lang="EN-US">Phang Nga Bay, an extensive section
of which is Marine National Park. </span>It is an exceptionally beautiful area,
with karst mountain island structures, limestone<span lang="EN-US"> c</span>liffs with
caves, collapsed-roof cave systems (which form “hongs”, Thai for “room”) and
archaeological sites.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">It is a
shallow bay with over 40 islands and many mangrove species. We read (Wikipedia)
that just 10 000 years ago, when sea levels were lower, one could walk
from Phuket to Krabi…. </span>but now you get around on this section of the
Andaman Sea by boat.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So, of course, if you a) have a boat and b) have time on
your hands and c) are in Phuket… well, it’s a no-brainer, really! We have been
in and out of the bay often, shared it with family and friends who have loved
it, but now it was time for a tour, seeing old favourites and venturing into
less travelled territories. This was our route:<o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCsnHb4gvKWV7hmZ2_8nzDBC1KuKVemAVlvsB8YHExzeNVNW5ar0UXlzQWAUFBt9RyH7m6Q7anq0DTh0lCBvjbrtUmCyaHJKzUzAlikKnlPUiVjgNEX_EOaOvAv4uDCkHt8vxxTD0Pewz1/s1600/SAM_5060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCsnHb4gvKWV7hmZ2_8nzDBC1KuKVemAVlvsB8YHExzeNVNW5ar0UXlzQWAUFBt9RyH7m6Q7anq0DTh0lCBvjbrtUmCyaHJKzUzAlikKnlPUiVjgNEX_EOaOvAv4uDCkHt8vxxTD0Pewz1/s400/SAM_5060.JPG" width="313" /></a></div>
Here is a (mostly) pictorial account of this very
picturesque bay, as we enjoyed it. (Stop numbers are given for the route. One
or two stops are not pictured here, where they have been covered in previous
blogs.)</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Ko Phanak </b>(stops
2,6)<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHCLaWOc9oF4XOb_VDcjxGGd2wRMribnIQli6SQrGnTFqSZSpaJJMgkWoTHBTMCISw0HkmyjFOH4u3eRNeaeANv707d5tt2esAMKCTpbgoPaAcDL8pEl7WzLkCu5pj00zX0GN3rewuN5F/s1600/IMGP2656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHCLaWOc9oF4XOb_VDcjxGGd2wRMribnIQli6SQrGnTFqSZSpaJJMgkWoTHBTMCISw0HkmyjFOH4u3eRNeaeANv707d5tt2esAMKCTpbgoPaAcDL8pEl7WzLkCu5pj00zX0GN3rewuN5F/s320/IMGP2656.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">Convoluted lagoon in the north: a great place for a sundowner dinghy ride.</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p>We have often put in stories and photos of the wonderful
Phanak hongs and caves; another feature, as on many of the islands, is cliffs
that have been eroded away at the base, leaving wonderful shady overhangs with
huge stalactites still dripping slowly as they grow.</o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHMbBY7pNDeb06Q1N_OiBD1Hn0RQFz8b2pHVVDdtxubK7R2ydhmPtTGhBntJjACY-J69ymoZE1DsjLBOS3VY39DLYcrNtDh5yIb0qkpYMSlv8gh1NJsd2Timzp9R3pChoSc85zRVxP0gY/s1600/IMGP2335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHMbBY7pNDeb06Q1N_OiBD1Hn0RQFz8b2pHVVDdtxubK7R2ydhmPtTGhBntJjACY-J69ymoZE1DsjLBOS3VY39DLYcrNtDh5yIb0qkpYMSlv8gh1NJsd2Timzp9R3pChoSc85zRVxP0gY/s320/IMGP2335.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">The view north from Phanak, whilst cooling off under the boat.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now it was time to head north, further into the bay.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ko Daeng </b>(stop 3)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Given that the
bay was walkable not so long ago, it is of course very shallow</span>. This has
implications for boats, if the crew do not want to become landlubbers,
inadvertently! So, the further north you venture, the shallower it becomes and
the slower you go. There are some channels but in the end, you must simply be
cautious… and read and interpret the tide tables carefully, watch the depth and
be sceptical of the navigation charts.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd4jLluFuNOwX5380wn4Zlpygv4-SpVYJsihO_nzSoljFpdYx_4lNeHTW5hirfkczpoqxZ5iWcqX8KCxCCW6vZFuxwpNjCRp1VIoJVhLvHUTWLFn1-IeYADEr8pi2kwyB3DEATEqGYDsA8/s1600/IMGP2363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd4jLluFuNOwX5380wn4Zlpygv4-SpVYJsihO_nzSoljFpdYx_4lNeHTW5hirfkczpoqxZ5iWcqX8KCxCCW6vZFuxwpNjCRp1VIoJVhLvHUTWLFn1-IeYADEr8pi2kwyB3DEATEqGYDsA8/s320/IMGP2363.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">Heading north to Ko Daeng.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fIX3EtOYPd1UYZdnAkZXsP2oidpXA4ffcF6GUezEewC24peZFWzanTOSPZiTh81KSh3Z56WS1LJP40KxpCo_Pu-g1h8fPU_cFwkmuyAeSkoxp5tKlCtuGkdoymGYrX7bkEmFwp5nGYdA/s1600/IMGP2416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fIX3EtOYPd1UYZdnAkZXsP2oidpXA4ffcF6GUezEewC24peZFWzanTOSPZiTh81KSh3Z56WS1LJP40KxpCo_Pu-g1h8fPU_cFwkmuyAeSkoxp5tKlCtuGkdoymGYrX7bkEmFwp5nGYdA/s320/IMGP2416.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormal">
Anchored under stunning Ko Daeng cliffs.<o:p></o:p></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
From our anchorage, our dinghy ferried us around in our
explorations...</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv3ZSZYVYDEjWDbQ9MSJsz0UgJ9KnF4oGRiwtqtQSk66gVEtS_KspK-FUe3PWt75Nsm2IGmA8FkmTzSUNnqW4oUiaelBk2LOzKPe4Px5khCsry_1lAuTIoM335Vq2l-hizmS41QXflQ_cF/s1600/IMGP2422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv3ZSZYVYDEjWDbQ9MSJsz0UgJ9KnF4oGRiwtqtQSk66gVEtS_KspK-FUe3PWt75Nsm2IGmA8FkmTzSUNnqW4oUiaelBk2LOzKPe4Px5khCsry_1lAuTIoM335Vq2l-hizmS41QXflQ_cF/s320/IMGP2422.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">Up tributaries in the mangroves: only at high tide, or risk getting stranded!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3yxPRvFtxvsbpdiEHcvnGQNrV8AVid8t5tofXdZdL28uXzs1_xLxJuK0eCRvIfrcgrYnp_Fqfjc3kJFzxUVS-K6tvhvtYxcpGsibTzVS2Gq4NbCWr91wlOkxHsAYyT9YxRI0Iiz4Mk4Su/s1600/IMGP2452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3yxPRvFtxvsbpdiEHcvnGQNrV8AVid8t5tofXdZdL28uXzs1_xLxJuK0eCRvIfrcgrYnp_Fqfjc3kJFzxUVS-K6tvhvtYxcpGsibTzVS2Gq4NbCWr91wlOkxHsAYyT9YxRI0Iiz4Mk4Su/s320/IMGP2452.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">To tiny beaches (where there always seems to be salvage…)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQFG92nvOVtUKNHhQMUN-VLt7VetEyLf-63qkAcMp3PG-WWCR7JMI6ARwYo86yGTBMLN6FvY4Yeb-gnmjuSEDscKSDHlTBKccDRoiQIXVYuI4DnX1uPFbPSge5fh8tLFlhoYho45qLrMx/s1600/IMGP2495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQFG92nvOVtUKNHhQMUN-VLt7VetEyLf-63qkAcMp3PG-WWCR7JMI6ARwYo86yGTBMLN6FvY4Yeb-gnmjuSEDscKSDHlTBKccDRoiQIXVYuI4DnX1uPFbPSge5fh8tLFlhoYho45qLrMx/s320/IMGP2495.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">… a fallen tree to shelter us from the rain.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sights and sounds of the bay: </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbDhmVDUxjm7QJ4rcLHWAxtNF_B3XmdAjoqKRu4rr4y1szeib0ibCNaCwlVUDPGjfsocbTQnhC0C1ec9U4nyBjsROTzZ8186skrk1V29ydac_Fl1Cm0FWj-tbD28ky4v27Hol_7vAJbYB6/s1600/IMGP2482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbDhmVDUxjm7QJ4rcLHWAxtNF_B3XmdAjoqKRu4rr4y1szeib0ibCNaCwlVUDPGjfsocbTQnhC0C1ec9U4nyBjsROTzZ8186skrk1V29ydac_Fl1Cm0FWj-tbD28ky4v27Hol_7vAJbYB6/s320/IMGP2482.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">Quiet solitude in a misty cool dawn.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But early fishermen on their longtails shatter the silence.
The magnificent Ko Daeng cliffs are shaped like a parabola: and Ketoro appeared
to be anchored at the focal point of the reflected sound waves!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNpAZkXElIUm1Lwier9bpI7sqKV0cIEVcKft7KmdfyAm-O4_bDlBztszRSumkBT3qhLuwLcm9tq5e4UvFIgbAcPfP5ge4OtKaP2ADmzhOysE0MZCKCNs_HtED0emyHSCbU0L1ovtjZrLCI/s1600/SAM_4634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNpAZkXElIUm1Lwier9bpI7sqKV0cIEVcKft7KmdfyAm-O4_bDlBztszRSumkBT3qhLuwLcm9tq5e4UvFIgbAcPfP5ge4OtKaP2ADmzhOysE0MZCKCNs_HtED0emyHSCbU0L1ovtjZrLCI/s320/SAM_4634.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">It is not long before the cool will give way to fierce heat.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sunrise, looking towards o<span lang="EN-US">ne of the most famous islands, James Bond Island: a needle-shaped limestone rock in the sea, featured in "The Man with the Golden Gun".</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ko Thalu and Ko Thalu
Nok / Raya </b>(stop 4)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbEvsY3hf2z3UMYRdv-gZ6knUq3v2rpHOQhc2Fj6ftJ0Jdk4RprAnOIanw3VHjoXHT5qvOQYGW5wgI2lIYBdGHgCO2BSpipvIrjEZye4RjHWBAaKALIXpm-I_HwtZREm4vMT2Iqx-usLaa/s1600/IMGP2537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbEvsY3hf2z3UMYRdv-gZ6knUq3v2rpHOQhc2Fj6ftJ0Jdk4RprAnOIanw3VHjoXHT5qvOQYGW5wgI2lIYBdGHgCO2BSpipvIrjEZye4RjHWBAaKALIXpm-I_HwtZREm4vMT2Iqx-usLaa/s320/IMGP2537.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A short distance further north, we found Ko Thalu, a rock island with
a tunnel cave through the base.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdc1zmjYlfm7nspyszFQFkflK5hPR7UfPXhdHyhWnKUImG9lWD0_v1z1DFi1LDsH8f8NeC0W5fjoQVSsw1UpBBu0IeKml21yrtcIgJRma19Ma-qWROuO2zPkf_WXNyBfttnm41TREQvoTz/s1600/IMGP2525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdc1zmjYlfm7nspyszFQFkflK5hPR7UfPXhdHyhWnKUImG9lWD0_v1z1DFi1LDsH8f8NeC0W5fjoQVSsw1UpBBu0IeKml21yrtcIgJRma19Ma-qWROuO2zPkf_WXNyBfttnm41TREQvoTz/s320/IMGP2525.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>A quiet place, far from tourists, a fishing couple uses it
to check what they have in their net.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
These fishing nets have disconcertingly small holes, one
result being that many tiny, dead fish are tossed back into the sea… and an
even worse result being the impact this must surely have on fishing in the bay
in general.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Further east, Ko Thalu Nok also has a tunnel through the
base; this is big enough to allow dozens of kayaks to navigate it
simultaneously – as a consequence many tour boats go there, and the sounds of
Phang Nga Bay are different there!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ko Khai </b>(stop 5)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX78oudmw7OH9JxJs8whpMWjrDQ2J5mAaPjca39rO_KIP0n5Ko35xbSQ5KJqIvS6r-6oTWajqgZlZ4l98_A5EP7DNDw-6WjlK2xD9aoie2V4O43utinCRru5rLMUk_4J63SCN9Fa6Fs2Pc/s1600/SAM_4658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX78oudmw7OH9JxJs8whpMWjrDQ2J5mAaPjca39rO_KIP0n5Ko35xbSQ5KJqIvS6r-6oTWajqgZlZ4l98_A5EP7DNDw-6WjlK2xD9aoie2V4O43utinCRru5rLMUk_4J63SCN9Fa6Fs2Pc/s320/SAM_4658.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehRsoILfQtfPQ55YkqXq19h2wCMqEkp_88pxyBag7LFS1V0t-_3t9HYszmq9QDe8IEPzZ_qzpiDwSO5jocR3BPA7EXVIasCqtLo87BKoIFivTkwiEz21P2CgFHy_9CY0Tmx8bGVjICoOf/s1600/IMGP2603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehRsoILfQtfPQ55YkqXq19h2wCMqEkp_88pxyBag7LFS1V0t-_3t9HYszmq9QDe8IEPzZ_qzpiDwSO5jocR3BPA7EXVIasCqtLo87BKoIFivTkwiEz21P2CgFHy_9CY0Tmx8bGVjICoOf/s320/IMGP2603.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">This beautiful little rock island has a lovely tiny beach with a view</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdPakYfyLat9ha3IKyWquN11FAk_ZRvztDB0VywL4eHc7yBK52ZVy9nIXo87n92Rnd6o8JdJLkoZrRAm5B-1C_tzOa4T_KhPWZaAuDO9QBWFxOTnCUR4tCYwifnri1ja9o5ZgiwA2PEP9O/s1600/IMGP2589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdPakYfyLat9ha3IKyWquN11FAk_ZRvztDB0VywL4eHc7yBK52ZVy9nIXo87n92Rnd6o8JdJLkoZrRAm5B-1C_tzOa4T_KhPWZaAuDO9QBWFxOTnCUR4tCYwifnri1ja9o5ZgiwA2PEP9O/s320/IMGP2589.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">And stunning overhanging structures with stalactites</span><o:p></o:p></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BhfQHGINbC3OSs_Vt3kQkcP-_YQmQtBaB2vLIFcE62fDez5jhYV4NYUlOuK1ERO7T9WY9mg3DsjURNVJy6FllIhfx4vVRWyHjJuXar-pAnYO62a0v6Sxko7aUjXoFdFDFo_8VeYEaAB_/s1600/IMGP2578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BhfQHGINbC3OSs_Vt3kQkcP-_YQmQtBaB2vLIFcE62fDez5jhYV4NYUlOuK1ERO7T9WY9mg3DsjURNVJy6FllIhfx4vVRWyHjJuXar-pAnYO62a0v6Sxko7aUjXoFdFDFo_8VeYEaAB_/s320/IMGP2578.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">which, on clambering up,</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnxjLW8X0B1nO-Vobpd9zJrywyhQstD4od6xp14o0CUZKgES8n8yJFR62p_d40GhRIdtkf7D4BdentdO8gxdgJqDdAXzv_v__f452aZyI9hIxAvFnJ_5NOhr_Je9ciGuGv0EJdcP9IQpkd/s1600/IMGP2566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnxjLW8X0B1nO-Vobpd9zJrywyhQstD4od6xp14o0CUZKgES8n8yJFR62p_d40GhRIdtkf7D4BdentdO8gxdgJqDdAXzv_v__f452aZyI9hIxAvFnJ_5NOhr_Je9ciGuGv0EJdcP9IQpkd/s320/IMGP2566.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">proves to be a marvellous balcony</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTf4jfzFDnZ6Z7eKnTqQaE_AaNDAqlN-nCywiCP9UMFVDBUzUjhtB5mmG_Lrk7FrJa3oPu7AlqQzmH63X5mnSEbTH-8M3gnLhXGGU19DzLlhzSf8qcX1cwxyIEHJMf2Co4xOq2dLeMDVsL/s1600/IMGP2558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTf4jfzFDnZ6Z7eKnTqQaE_AaNDAqlN-nCywiCP9UMFVDBUzUjhtB5mmG_Lrk7FrJa3oPu7AlqQzmH63X5mnSEbTH-8M3gnLhXGGU19DzLlhzSf8qcX1cwxyIEHJMf2Co4xOq2dLeMDVsL/s320/IMGP2558.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">that leads to stalactite falls and rocks in beautiful hues.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We left Ko Khai to head to</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ko Naka </b>(stop 7)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was time to see friends again, and what better way than a
“braai” on the beach? (For our non-SA friends: this is a BBQ!) <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjijkmdmtSW8YXAvgAYCWVj4_WWTagHdHISQKibi7JhLdlIHfEgRitNhU_mU3s4lNZpmiLXem4t7EpZ4lGXtH3DktnsPJWOmFlkoT5lSZqoX5SRdDcXRJzOeXiIR337_CRQIZm9KTznjHQG/s1600/DSC_0745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjijkmdmtSW8YXAvgAYCWVj4_WWTagHdHISQKibi7JhLdlIHfEgRitNhU_mU3s4lNZpmiLXem4t7EpZ4lGXtH3DktnsPJWOmFlkoT5lSZqoX5SRdDcXRJzOeXiIR337_CRQIZm9KTznjHQG/s320/DSC_0745.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On a blisteringly hot day, Ketoro rafted up against another
catamaran</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihMNwbPHGw8L58UFoiicvb9KAht6w9dGx6_AIQfn6EazsmOBRNsKvHa1mRzf15_ikAgdvb_mYl2gfLHJjyaOiW2Z8mYbfIwZmz6cr1_vz99C5Rsg3DRpA1Mde1lKseDVAkAtLoxH-BXEyF/s1600/DSC_0778.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihMNwbPHGw8L58UFoiicvb9KAht6w9dGx6_AIQfn6EazsmOBRNsKvHa1mRzf15_ikAgdvb_mYl2gfLHJjyaOiW2Z8mYbfIwZmz6cr1_vz99C5Rsg3DRpA1Mde1lKseDVAkAtLoxH-BXEyF/s320/DSC_0778.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>And we alternated eating with soaking in the water.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So…Did we tell you that the bay is shallow in many areas!?
Getting to and from shore at low tides in the dinghy is tricky… <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy_8DDVF7fgqbixLUssxRL2rI8rBtVBOFJ5-MeA_N-i61XQ6ph5Byhb0KlZnKfmeHR4LQgH6Cd-LK0s9l3BNYC1bitavHpqmnlh6c2JAX1HVrphslm1koo8LX-MNuBEhH6iMYQVpFFmdb2/s1600/DSC_0751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy_8DDVF7fgqbixLUssxRL2rI8rBtVBOFJ5-MeA_N-i61XQ6ph5Byhb0KlZnKfmeHR4LQgH6Cd-LK0s9l3BNYC1bitavHpqmnlh6c2JAX1HVrphslm1koo8LX-MNuBEhH6iMYQVpFFmdb2/s320/DSC_0751.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
but not with our “Ketoro Depthometer” – a stick from Chagos
that lives in our dinghy for just such opportunities to show its worth! This
was Irene’s Chagos “salvage”, and it stands proud alongside Rolf’s Richards Bay
plank and other Phang Nga Bay planks now at home on the boat…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ko Ku Du </b>(stop 8)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A favourite anchorage between two islands, there are two
tiny beaches and a beautiful lagoon, and sheer beauty to enjoy on every face of
the island in a dinghy “circumnavigation”.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAQ6JlMAeHYZ2rMosCa9nwEEj1EI4dObGkncVS50aqAQ0HGX0ZywkSOdgO9tvHtbYn5IatOcE4mYUFDaM38xyZW5ewH-AeJquLYxboOSDonFu-HBcSOw323glpeIUK24NkJpYfWVaxRfJ/s1600/IMGP2680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAQ6JlMAeHYZ2rMosCa9nwEEj1EI4dObGkncVS50aqAQ0HGX0ZywkSOdgO9tvHtbYn5IatOcE4mYUFDaM38xyZW5ewH-AeJquLYxboOSDonFu-HBcSOw323glpeIUK24NkJpYfWVaxRfJ/s320/IMGP2680.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ko Yao Noi: Ao Muang
Paradise Beach Resort </b>(stop 10)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Meeting up with friends on their boat one evening, we
decided it was time for a meal on shore and the use of a resort pool. (Life is
tough). So off we went to a larger island, Ko Yao Noi.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Venturing on shore, we found cold beer, delicious food and a
lovely cold pool… And then we found that the tide was out and our dinghies
were high and dry!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixxvMRYH_M4Il75Oc45W4LHpU3oBh5R1e_g-DOHWlcuF-bVRf7gaJ1UAwJZCd1bSBzHfimsr4ULydGM7VSbYXm6sbZFX7h5LSSt8ctthFt1tzZgNQxuf5Hf35Wdllp4HB6A8Cov4B9wdt_/s1600/Paradise+Low+Tide+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixxvMRYH_M4Il75Oc45W4LHpU3oBh5R1e_g-DOHWlcuF-bVRf7gaJ1UAwJZCd1bSBzHfimsr4ULydGM7VSbYXm6sbZFX7h5LSSt8ctthFt1tzZgNQxuf5Hf35Wdllp4HB6A8Cov4B9wdt_/s320/Paradise+Low+Tide+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Did we mention the resort loungers? They were an
exceptionally comfortable place from which to watch the waters slowly rise
until we could go home again!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Khlong Marui / Khlong
Pak Lao </b>(stop 11)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was time to venture further north than we had been
before, to explore the khlongs. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is an extensive wetland area of mangroves in the north
of the bay. The khlongs are “rivers” that wind their way through the mangroves
and form ‘less-shallow’ channels. As we went slowly forward in the channels, we
put a track on our chartplotter to help us find the same route out again when
we returned… and in some cases to know where NOT to go when we returned, those
being the places where depth dropped dramatically, associated with a robust
gears-rapidly-to-reverse strategy and a skull-and-crossbones icon being placed
on that position!<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCu2a79-qf0-EKDM4HTriakIVyagwpFwWXisbD_ItAAnnzm7VwjyxkecbU5ooIWNEWTZrMx0_kJ2yNSoiaNCPcrZFhNup6k9pvpY0exeKcjg8pAgxf_8wbMxQC1xIUf8KR-n_rYVsVWQv0/s1600/SAM_4690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCu2a79-qf0-EKDM4HTriakIVyagwpFwWXisbD_ItAAnnzm7VwjyxkecbU5ooIWNEWTZrMx0_kJ2yNSoiaNCPcrZFhNup6k9pvpY0exeKcjg8pAgxf_8wbMxQC1xIUf8KR-n_rYVsVWQv0/s320/SAM_4690.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">Sunset on Khlong Marui</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We anchored as deep into the surprisingly broad Khlong Marui
as we dared, and dinghied down a tributary, Khlong Pak Lao. The only other
people about were a few fishermen in their longtails, who we saw scoot down the
more narrow waterways and simply disappear from view into their homes hidden
amongst the low mangrove trees.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLP7OiOUojZMuIdsYfII8oQ8041UbCd6_JHB9EdsQCfA3YRBYtEfarMUXvN6u4eEJL_8nrj3z1nBp8QpCIOJ2DoD6PSBwcTXypJge28OUu3EJh83CmsqEKi5ewfVeu10ZRX0o1-CuRBZme/s1600/IMGP2736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLP7OiOUojZMuIdsYfII8oQ8041UbCd6_JHB9EdsQCfA3YRBYtEfarMUXvN6u4eEJL_8nrj3z1nBp8QpCIOJ2DoD6PSBwcTXypJge28OUu3EJh83CmsqEKi5ewfVeu10ZRX0o1-CuRBZme/s320/IMGP2736.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Khlong Pak Lao meanders between lovely tall islands and then
we forayed down much smaller tributaries off this khlong to find some wonderful
places…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKKLhGfco4vqtxpqS46ddudaxLDBm8cWUOpuioL8e7FqLZ8CeINGeHFV77fEvakIVZaMn7TfhMaqB4m4qqpZZt4WUmyyhbyt_X_VppjZo3EC0f6NvVo5CRuLEJUZVF0LTTx_3eh2Qyj6tU/s1600/IMGP2740+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKKLhGfco4vqtxpqS46ddudaxLDBm8cWUOpuioL8e7FqLZ8CeINGeHFV77fEvakIVZaMn7TfhMaqB4m4qqpZZt4WUmyyhbyt_X_VppjZo3EC0f6NvVo5CRuLEJUZVF0LTTx_3eh2Qyj6tU/s320/IMGP2740+-+Copy.JPG" width="313" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">Old information poster at ancient cave entrance.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMyZcRrUR2k2a7YhUtpgScKa7fenq4kDlaM7q1K9sXXRhM2TcLn0oN5GeMChzd-ssI22bNdw1dYHWTrai2AwRX8lEUciK6hOPkA03RkznxmcU_Ypq32o8Ylo5nR15r8OVMqmXr9oO7TowL/s1600/IMGP2744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMyZcRrUR2k2a7YhUtpgScKa7fenq4kDlaM7q1K9sXXRhM2TcLn0oN5GeMChzd-ssI22bNdw1dYHWTrai2AwRX8lEUciK6hOPkA03RkznxmcU_Ypq32o8Ylo5nR15r8OVMqmXr9oO7TowL/s320/IMGP2744.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>A cave with now-faint wall murals and paintings gives evidence
of habitation here 3000 years ago.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhff-WWVcVZx7CI0WJW5dF6s1lMoIE4zItrPHRkL-ABxlTM0UFOMHYyxfKATbtk1_Ukvy95jjln4al0FmxdoB5dHpsAMX2Q6CD1IWJcgzoK5isF__QGK6V1yuVIlbD1HZoNvUnGrjraxycs/s1600/IMGP2745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhff-WWVcVZx7CI0WJW5dF6s1lMoIE4zItrPHRkL-ABxlTM0UFOMHYyxfKATbtk1_Ukvy95jjln4al0FmxdoB5dHpsAMX2Q6CD1IWJcgzoK5isF__QGK6V1yuVIlbD1HZoNvUnGrjraxycs/s320/IMGP2745.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Another tiny tributary gurgled through a stunning 200m tunnel waterway through a mountain...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUI4UtZkkHXgIWOs7zVGyQ5OD66C4vLI5UC8T6ZWix9UK_0j3nTpTDLb29zMC7cgtE5M-7cPJ9r91KrKZXNolccm4uErF3yimMhcJjJ0td1C1NMA8SaGOqTMK32M8LrWxwNOwolAx0oGdM/s1600/IMGP2756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUI4UtZkkHXgIWOs7zVGyQ5OD66C4vLI5UC8T6ZWix9UK_0j3nTpTDLb29zMC7cgtE5M-7cPJ9r91KrKZXNolccm4uErF3yimMhcJjJ0td1C1NMA8SaGOqTMK32M8LrWxwNOwolAx0oGdM/s320/IMGP2756.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW53OAFlt_eHWFxXOWVxWE8J15z8vDkwSbrp5IL497FYdLAcCJA9VLOuhIZkWY2tOOx80f786Go3s0m7Z6mbpNhdl4ipwiRITfXQuQGLoG54UInuSS_AQUcG2aEse7bEa9cwCTU-d-R0yi/s1600/IMGP2767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW53OAFlt_eHWFxXOWVxWE8J15z8vDkwSbrp5IL497FYdLAcCJA9VLOuhIZkWY2tOOx80f786Go3s0m7Z6mbpNhdl4ipwiRITfXQuQGLoG54UInuSS_AQUcG2aEse7bEa9cwCTU-d-R0yi/s320/IMGP2767.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">Stalactites and "rock falls" were again plentiful and very lovely.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is not apparent from the photos, but the water up here is
awfully muddy and definitely not to be jumped into. The heat was absolutely
intense and there is no respite: not from the water around the boat, nor from
boat water: this is limited as our tank is fairly small and we could not run
the water-maker in the khlong water; it is too dirty and will clog the filters.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were surprised at the strength of the tidal race: we were
here at springs and the depth difference was about 2.8m; while on anchor the
log showed a speed of 3 knots! With a good holding anchor, we did not worry but
still there was a lack of sleep…. Because of all the noises made by various
parts and lines of the boat that we could not identify that were rattling and
resonating and challenging our interpretation skills!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was an incredibly uncomfortable few days -but we would
not have missed it for the world. A different, quiet, remote, interesting part
of the bay of which we have great memories.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ko Chong Lat and Ko Khlui
</b>(stops 12, 13)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Heading back south, down into the bay, there is a lovely
anchorage at Chong Lat Island that is surrounded by tall land masses and hence protected
in all weather conditions. Around the shallow curved edge on one side sits a
row of small wooden houses that appear to be fish farms, and other than that
there are lovely rocks soaring out of the water with steep sides… and rushing
tidal water that churns up the mud many metres below to give swirling
mud-patterns around the boat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK4ukFvJ0rzU4Ml6wNrL5oCOGtcXIqkHmKGtMfPDfxsAvBOpq7oCYltgqGXS4w5cV6dL-itREUurIiiGM5VdliM8-c-JMTdKFcvptlQ0n-1v-9ibYCW_sJG2YDXA50vIZCcyEAI0t0s5dG/s1600/SAM_4715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK4ukFvJ0rzU4Ml6wNrL5oCOGtcXIqkHmKGtMfPDfxsAvBOpq7oCYltgqGXS4w5cV6dL-itREUurIiiGM5VdliM8-c-JMTdKFcvptlQ0n-1v-9ibYCW_sJG2YDXA50vIZCcyEAI0t0s5dG/s320/SAM_4715.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The waters just south of here hold many dangerous areas for yachts, with
rocks just below the surface, but these are marked with posts, and of course
such irregular underwater surfaces provide good fishing grounds… or they must
do, if the number of fishing couples in longtails is anything to go by.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwW9t2rIY8ZhMRNOZZN5e0EJRCq90rhFIgp0qWS5hLuQUCF6aHFDcqH_-Fu5-2XnLn3QEQPJ2xMl-m2pjeBCTtGhmzOFtQWgO404VjDGrLzkG4KCkvrUagRIjYe__g6bWHIPHdjMASrMLl/s1600/IMGP2834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwW9t2rIY8ZhMRNOZZN5e0EJRCq90rhFIgp0qWS5hLuQUCF6aHFDcqH_-Fu5-2XnLn3QEQPJ2xMl-m2pjeBCTtGhmzOFtQWgO404VjDGrLzkG4KCkvrUagRIjYe__g6bWHIPHdjMASrMLl/s320/IMGP2834.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
These fishermen were incredibly friendly, shouting
greetings, (selling us their most delicious prawns, of course)…. And one team
sat quietly at night, their flashing anchor light in tandem with ours, and
listened to our classical music touching the quiet. When we switched off, they
left… but returned the following night!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfNRfzi471Bp1ee8IDHCuygI4plsYUWOGUnW1olqeK14fk2J-0BrcGWtjQLr6g6YcfOR3NN2KExF1bpwEgfjialgdvIdVxfgiObSlF5ptJvYNueE7tV1tpthwrNpLzV4IxpvXXKXHWDer/s1600/SAM_4802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfNRfzi471Bp1ee8IDHCuygI4plsYUWOGUnW1olqeK14fk2J-0BrcGWtjQLr6g6YcfOR3NN2KExF1bpwEgfjialgdvIdVxfgiObSlF5ptJvYNueE7tV1tpthwrNpLzV4IxpvXXKXHWDer/s400/SAM_4802.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">Net repair on the tiny beach near us.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6l2km3rLUXw7RQghIo7a6_yhSitszS6-h81wuHLvlKt-6XqdqOPsLaZmGCtebQqF4zreeEg6Z52msmlAudcFUCn48Z9vkiFb8WePVW1Ocpnt7-qipYdVC5EMPmDB-4vi6R9hXEC4iv5-G/s1600/IMGP2835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6l2km3rLUXw7RQghIo7a6_yhSitszS6-h81wuHLvlKt-6XqdqOPsLaZmGCtebQqF4zreeEg6Z52msmlAudcFUCn48Z9vkiFb8WePVW1Ocpnt7-qipYdVC5EMPmDB-4vi6R9hXEC4iv5-G/s320/IMGP2835.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">A home drives past.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSf_-Lh_qbNsTlQKKBCh-jws27SINyndyqio-7HixAk08kPt9PmcXW2HeJdvm1OpqDdthdqCy5r0vJylKFf2EgYa-FlQ_uB4J28vkOxdzyI9TycGO9nqyvixBC8a7ry3hpT_kP5U1QVuN_/s1600/SAM_4740.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSf_-Lh_qbNsTlQKKBCh-jws27SINyndyqio-7HixAk08kPt9PmcXW2HeJdvm1OpqDdthdqCy5r0vJylKFf2EgYa-FlQ_uB4J28vkOxdzyI9TycGO9nqyvixBC8a7ry3hpT_kP5U1QVuN_/s320/SAM_4740.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">Leaving the area.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Krabi </b>(stops 15,
16)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiutvmuULhDdwcl30D7T7wq6oFrq3aZLsu0rXhbdVSKhnOgtcYvYFYmytQYZBXk5yChlf92h-QVsrC-WAwKKCzZCKL6TD78BwDxm5AyNJhEQJOILLMRXpIZZXpONLiZ66Z1Rsm_kahPmbNm/s1600/SAM_4828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiutvmuULhDdwcl30D7T7wq6oFrq3aZLsu0rXhbdVSKhnOgtcYvYFYmytQYZBXk5yChlf92h-QVsrC-WAwKKCzZCKL6TD78BwDxm5AyNJhEQJOILLMRXpIZZXpONLiZ66Z1Rsm_kahPmbNm/s320/SAM_4828.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Railay in the Krabi area is exceptionally lovely.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A bay framed on three sides by steep cliffs, with white
beach and clear sea, it is only accessible by boat... so longtails are the
preferred form of transport and give a very typical Thai picture!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3bdnCU70hjn2xL3b7s0kH16n6eJH1dTR249O8cH5u__6nvfqZkQzK3wbeppSczj01nl82ft86ZUu7DH5L_pd7n9UYqPFkDYTkm0YobCevc546b5eLWuoaq7ZDcb2cP71ERJlhLkDNXT2U/s1600/SAM_4841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3bdnCU70hjn2xL3b7s0kH16n6eJH1dTR249O8cH5u__6nvfqZkQzK3wbeppSczj01nl82ft86ZUu7DH5L_pd7n9UYqPFkDYTkm0YobCevc546b5eLWuoaq7ZDcb2cP71ERJlhLkDNXT2U/s320/SAM_4841.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some of the upmarket resorts provide their own boat transfer
service, and those coming in on the east side have a problem at low tides....</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZuY69MDyq6wrtBswinZShQYuQyQec63t3mLqmDiI1Tns_iwDKQ3_X28mIkc9IHGZGfnb6dO8fn-jptypaMqyegyKgWTV_-IZ-zsm28ep-PUKb4OQyOkPyPqk45Dp17Me9-Ela-YDB4Ym/s1600/SAM_4876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZuY69MDyq6wrtBswinZShQYuQyQec63t3mLqmDiI1Tns_iwDKQ3_X28mIkc9IHGZGfnb6dO8fn-jptypaMqyegyKgWTV_-IZ-zsm28ep-PUKb4OQyOkPyPqk45Dp17Me9-Ela-YDB4Ym/s320/SAM_4876.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bet they never told the guests they would be transferred to
shore by tractor-and-trailer!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Krabi is famous for its rock-climbing: these cliffs must be
a climber’s dream, and several organisations appear to give excellent service
to novices while experts are spoiled for choice in individual climbs.<o:p></o:p></div>
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCz8tf-cF4zb-YH2bZIPm4TeijDJPUXGC9DWhOZnud16dVNENC13btE88T6gg4X4jJVi66p_kOSk853doVvRkBCTVD3oNwJxm4w6QnlR9cgYIvB-GMrvIbC3NKhW26UHwKJSTRhlFHSfXN/s1600/SAM_4916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCz8tf-cF4zb-YH2bZIPm4TeijDJPUXGC9DWhOZnud16dVNENC13btE88T6gg4X4jJVi66p_kOSk853doVvRkBCTVD3oNwJxm4w6QnlR9cgYIvB-GMrvIbC3NKhW26UHwKJSTRhlFHSfXN/s320/SAM_4916.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As well as the beach/swim/climb/kayak fun, there are plenty
of places to eat, get massages, and have your hair braided: not all of them of
such rustic appearance (and with healthy huge plants growing on the roof)!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVYaXZPHVKlDQBdz-ojDHa9lRNYTev1Gi05DGFV0neZgQxqcgui2PW5DnTQzA6L-Chqoemz90YBafq5tyDNHk5edGHAyrOoZ-XSnXm3yV34hX6Ch_Vj4Rm2zgNyEcLzdp9EQMKKFN6uLxq/s1600/DSC_0378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVYaXZPHVKlDQBdz-ojDHa9lRNYTev1Gi05DGFV0neZgQxqcgui2PW5DnTQzA6L-Chqoemz90YBafq5tyDNHk5edGHAyrOoZ-XSnXm3yV34hX6Ch_Vj4Rm2zgNyEcLzdp9EQMKKFN6uLxq/s320/DSC_0378.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><b>Chicken Island (Ko Khwan
Dam) </b>(stop 17)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Friends from Phuket came to visit. It was JJ’s birthday, so
we sailed from Krabi to the “Chicken Island”...<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtz0oqv_L6ik0wCiJ8Kp5xSvvBfyF7yVGs96Gtle-hTyR-BciKsct8H8YYKVzsfjGv5XvLSdofL_RU1KEX8p-f2Ix1gE7Hsm9pIqMav8gluAzvXS-YDOfE2JuMzmCDS-R3mJQ8qCCDbeyu/s1600/SAM_4416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtz0oqv_L6ik0wCiJ8Kp5xSvvBfyF7yVGs96Gtle-hTyR-BciKsct8H8YYKVzsfjGv5XvLSdofL_RU1KEX8p-f2Ix1gE7Hsm9pIqMav8gluAzvXS-YDOfE2JuMzmCDS-R3mJQ8qCCDbeyu/s320/SAM_4416.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Walked the sand spit between the two (which is too deep at high
tides and a completely exposed beach at low tide).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1sOLQpvwqx6UiglRLC58MVLOs2QrIWmX_GiK5YeP1dPVBs4LKm0C5JUu-7TAEviBt7hRuURwLHY89trN8clMJ3NKpAUQrs1A0v98Gao5UVo2d84Y2SDrbK-pKS3xd_SCsmxd4SHKdiTr/s1600/DSC01731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1sOLQpvwqx6UiglRLC58MVLOs2QrIWmX_GiK5YeP1dPVBs4LKm0C5JUu-7TAEviBt7hRuURwLHY89trN8clMJ3NKpAUQrs1A0v98Gao5UVo2d84Y2SDrbK-pKS3xd_SCsmxd4SHKdiTr/s320/DSC01731.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>And beer for boys was served on the hammocks under the boat!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxubqf1HOuj-Er_NIHO5aFz9HXn_mUwC_eh-8jPz_UT_5G4J9Suqj0igEH7UED4PL-O4sFsyN11TAT_m67s6L1IGtMduyi9hHu4VIyBX2aLp3mpNg1K10uhxFWHFFAlJJ9Ps7mu4hiNXsO/s1600/DSC01817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxubqf1HOuj-Er_NIHO5aFz9HXn_mUwC_eh-8jPz_UT_5G4J9Suqj0igEH7UED4PL-O4sFsyN11TAT_m67s6L1IGtMduyi9hHu4VIyBX2aLp3mpNg1K10uhxFWHFFAlJJ9Ps7mu4hiNXsO/s320/DSC01817.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Turns out the Chicken islands play host to thousands of
bats: which we did not see during the day, hiding in the myriad trees on the
densely-covered sides of the island, but they all returned home in the morning,
for us to enjoy the spectacle.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw7AVQkMdOaCdk7IHF_1oXKdWzTZyJuA4T9cUl78vNJ8ynvRIWMEFcL7c1VG4YGy6jrqSj_HtfU-8meAQAayL61qTYN5yuozRSUVIoYsB9-2DwT0ebDZZ4885-U3yQpugkKwskliMYHwnF/s1600/SAM_4948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw7AVQkMdOaCdk7IHF_1oXKdWzTZyJuA4T9cUl78vNJ8ynvRIWMEFcL7c1VG4YGy6jrqSj_HtfU-8meAQAayL61qTYN5yuozRSUVIoYsB9-2DwT0ebDZZ4885-U3yQpugkKwskliMYHwnF/s320/SAM_4948.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Back in Ao Chalong,
Phuket </b>(stop 19)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we first arrived in Thailand, 2 ½ years ago, we came
into Ao (Bay) Chalong in Phuket, and it will be from here that we clear out in
February to return across the Indian Ocean.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Good friends were on their boat here, so it was catch-up
time again: always a pleasure when yachties’ plans overlap. Chalong Bay has
seen us a few times, and it showed us a very good face: wonderful new dinghy
dock (never mind that it is a failed marina for big boats...), plenty of
mooring buoys (so we don’t need to drop anchor and have our chain eroded away
by the tin in the water here: this was a tin mining area.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Mostly, it is a real pleasure to see the Big Buddha on the
hill, this time peeking through clouds and seemingly with halo!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPw7xqrZQa6J5517X_85hHNzngVbIWyMGgcKpu_MY9JuEGwEHykwIKohdNH8UoWSrjej0VkkmwXWOdMf_BSEMHJnXeFxizI9NR6UDcAwb7en66x4Z1wSXu1eG5QvETQf2hczbo26yawzuI/s1600/SAM_5036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPw7xqrZQa6J5517X_85hHNzngVbIWyMGgcKpu_MY9JuEGwEHykwIKohdNH8UoWSrjej0VkkmwXWOdMf_BSEMHJnXeFxizI9NR6UDcAwb7en66x4Z1wSXu1eG5QvETQf2hczbo26yawzuI/s320/SAM_5036.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><b>Footnote: other
sights and sounds of Phang Nga Bay</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Of course, Phang Nga Bay is so lovely, and cruising around
here is so easy, that… as well as endless longtails and ferries with tourists,
there are many charter boats: yachts that have been chartered for a week or so
by groups of friends who have enormous fun in an easy cruising environment.
Many of the skippers of these boats are no doubt experienced sailors, but the
tales we hear of their lapses and sometimes incompetence are astounding; … and
we have witnessed several. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For example: anchored in a big, muddy, open bay, a boat came
in late afternoon and anchored alongside us; the anchoring process took a
surprisingly short time before celebrations and swimming commenced. Conditions
were very gentle. Later that night, we were aware that they had gone very
quiet, and used the torch to find them. Nope. Gone. We were surprised that
people would move anchorage in the dark. But then we heard bedlam way off from
us and realised (obviously only just after they had) that they had dragged
anchor and were heading out of the bay, backing onto a small island. They
started their engines and came back in, this time anchoring alongside us in the
dark: a concern. We listened to the chain going out: very little – maybe
10-15m. We watched to see them set the anchor: no. We knew it would be a long
and worrying night for us… but the wind and tide would carry them away from us,
so all was well. The next morning? They were not where they had started…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And for example… A
friend who is employed by a charter company to maintain the fleet describes one
of the most common problems as being blocked heads (toilets). Well, one morning
in Krabi we assumed this must have been the problem on board the charter boat
alongside us as we watched a man hold the handles of the steps, hang his bottom
over the edge (thighs parallel to sea)... and go. Definitely no pictures of
this one: save you the spectacle…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And then: this boat dropped anchor with full mainsail up,
near us in the channel between the two steep islands of Ko Ku Du (stop 8). The whole
crew then jumped into their dinghy and set off to tour the island, leaving the
yacht and its hoisted sail. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixVeNhRy-94qXMKQOvffroMwI76v7CkauhwPWhfKt9G6j_6gkkwJCNhnGVxnQqqZrYM8KHJGkWwHto6XJVf3SPZeEmLAtdJLAm-ZbwUHD5RjHczzZOIABlHy3XF0H5poqgHgEdFSexcxtI/s1600/IMGP2713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixVeNhRy-94qXMKQOvffroMwI76v7CkauhwPWhfKt9G6j_6gkkwJCNhnGVxnQqqZrYM8KHJGkWwHto6XJVf3SPZeEmLAtdJLAm-ZbwUHD5RjHczzZOIABlHy3XF0H5poqgHgEdFSexcxtI/s320/IMGP2713.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">No, really, he IS anchored behind us!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We watched the unattended boat sail around its anchor....
and were grateful for calm weather and space between us!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Home is now in Yacht Haven Marina (stop 21), where we will
leave the boat to make a grand trip… to see grandbabies for Christmas! (Oh, and
also their parents….)<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-17514021114715429342012-11-09T08:04:00.000+02:002012-11-09T08:04:48.359+02:00Phuket: enjoying the contrasts<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
October saw us go from working on Ketoro-on-the-hardstand (whilst
we were apartment-dwellers), to working on our home whilst she was tied up in
the marina, to free-as-a-bird cruisers when we finally said <i>enough!</i> … and set out into Phang Nga Bay
to enjoy its incredible beauty and peace.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was a month of many contrasts that also saw us
juxtaposing work and thorough enjoyment of some new Phuket experiences. For
example, we heard of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival and decided to investigate…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Phuket has several different communities (amongst whom: Buddhist,
Hindu and Muslim; Thai, Burmese, Indian, Malay, Chinese and expat) that appear
to exist mostly-companionably alongside one other, allowing one another space
and freedom for individual expression. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwv-KBS2MtQc9g9qY0726NYovs07-kshyIov8EFcIuRqYAe9PoWySIlW_kBIIW3wv51c9xCzsyeBMXl1KC55bEKWrFsbmLFaC_eFtKsNItVwAKYnhIR7uJBHTJPOneZOpF6NSn8pnxx0/s1600/SAM_4505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwv-KBS2MtQc9g9qY0726NYovs07-kshyIov8EFcIuRqYAe9PoWySIlW_kBIIW3wv51c9xCzsyeBMXl1KC55bEKWrFsbmLFaC_eFtKsNItVwAKYnhIR7uJBHTJPOneZOpF6NSn8pnxx0/s320/SAM_4505.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>The large Chinese community recently (for nine evenings in
October, the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar) held their annual
Vegetarian Festival, with accompanying sacred rituals which are said to bestow
good fortune upon those who religiously observe the rites: hold to a vegetarian
or vegan diet for spiritual cleansing and merit-making, and pray regularly to
certain gods. Chinese shrines and temples were homes to these sacred rituals,
food markets, prayer, fire-walking and body-piercing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA0VNfjl9Qx9yEt-yNF08b2UJdUhuyhBk89R-qpbvvK1PrqEF8OL49Dd0LYBy3a6NUC_xcmMlVuBDNx37ODlohxnC0ZdQjOFho-uXY-E9iyIiuPRrafFGxiJLIrNJyU-JdmYHW8gRPu8s/s1600/SAM_4502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA0VNfjl9Qx9yEt-yNF08b2UJdUhuyhBk89R-qpbvvK1PrqEF8OL49Dd0LYBy3a6NUC_xcmMlVuBDNx37ODlohxnC0ZdQjOFho-uXY-E9iyIiuPRrafFGxiJLIrNJyU-JdmYHW8gRPu8s/s320/SAM_4502.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Boat Lagoon Marina is close to a large and beautiful Chinese
Temple so we decided to investigate; early one morning we, on motorbike, joined
(inadvertently) the procession of trucks and cars carrying the devotees
part-way to Phuket town, then got a good spot to view the proceedings from
where they started their walk to Sapan Hin, their final destination.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK6FH5dUrsNZHhKcbd9fAdUEHGL7uDyesS7BriJq338XKNwypD_ZWHmKDmwkyq3WthBB7YmpfTfk3ZJcHHhwWyrRxD5xHuNM8ARYVuFm3a7ufp9RLF53Ne5lpcE8rbwwJhLz_vVQFj_PI/s1600/SAM_4499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK6FH5dUrsNZHhKcbd9fAdUEHGL7uDyesS7BriJq338XKNwypD_ZWHmKDmwkyq3WthBB7YmpfTfk3ZJcHHhwWyrRxD5xHuNM8ARYVuFm3a7ufp9RLF53Ne5lpcE8rbwwJhLz_vVQFj_PI/s320/SAM_4499.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>This festival commemorates a travelling company of Chinese
opera singers in the first half of the 1800s who got terribly ill soon after
arriving in the jungles of Kathu on Phuket Island, but astonishingly all
recovered after honouring two of their emperor gods through prayer and
observing a vegetarian diet.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7jQiGVuHE7UqCfwCpBvtTpOfLxuwVAfHkDWbI8YiKBhJC7q4s3eQm9hG7biGhdOu6HegForeEwTlMfiUIOqC4ZNlaWnkVomcA3WKl48UfOPxXKUFfK-oZqFdSff8jG7BxpKXtXeOz_-w/s1600/IMGP2287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7jQiGVuHE7UqCfwCpBvtTpOfLxuwVAfHkDWbI8YiKBhJC7q4s3eQm9hG7biGhdOu6HegForeEwTlMfiUIOqC4ZNlaWnkVomcA3WKl48UfOPxXKUFfK-oZqFdSff8jG7BxpKXtXeOz_-w/s320/IMGP2287.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Most procession participants dressed in white; many carried
shrines, flags, and joss sticks, but the most stunning part for observers was
to see the extensive body piercings of the entranced devotees ("Ma
Song"), dressed in particular clothing to indicate that the gods have
entered them during the festival. They are said to manifest supernatural powers,
and perform self-torture (as we understand it) in order to shift evil from others
onto themselves, and to bring the community good luck. They demonstrated that
through their beliefs they can withstand body hardship and are spared pain. The
man above has a long pole piercing both cheeks and supporting a Chinese lantern
on each side.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidKQ-j78UWh0cqzTEYMsZ72kBlRzXyxG8JBV2DH3inTY8xbhyL5azpYnFS7UA1gswFQoQrWuJy2RYIcSRWHNUEIJfvL9lD3RlBFDggJLpIW_fs99W2QPTVQAW6i_bbk8kBH75NNPgIZ2M/s1600/SAM_4486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidKQ-j78UWh0cqzTEYMsZ72kBlRzXyxG8JBV2DH3inTY8xbhyL5azpYnFS7UA1gswFQoQrWuJy2RYIcSRWHNUEIJfvL9lD3RlBFDggJLpIW_fs99W2QPTVQAW6i_bbk8kBH75NNPgIZ2M/s320/SAM_4486.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To our eyes, it was all quite incredible, albeit gruesome. All manner of
implements were used: one man put the tall handlebar of his children's scooter
through his cheek, one had a large fan-palm frond on either side of his face, piercing
his cheeks; one guy was pierced by two curved-handle walking-stick type
umbrellas. This was on top of the usual knives, swords, skewers etc. We saw almost
no blood.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrZgSkA4l7ggtG7n6r1OB6Moi4iVCE5U31MfVV9mbqXaYo6jOgqz3zjOF4qOV-g1g3XbsQyZFXJDmQ-Bqoy1u0oiVA7rYYc2Q1vij2ShyphenhyphenQjZnMmcE-WvWSORo5B0oUNUAMW1ghPoBUJSw/s1600/SAM_4525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrZgSkA4l7ggtG7n6r1OB6Moi4iVCE5U31MfVV9mbqXaYo6jOgqz3zjOF4qOV-g1g3XbsQyZFXJDmQ-Bqoy1u0oiVA7rYYc2Q1vij2ShyphenhyphenQjZnMmcE-WvWSORo5B0oUNUAMW1ghPoBUJSw/s320/SAM_4525.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Throughout the festival, fireworks and drums are a constant
backdrop, especially during ceremonies; the louder the better, because the
noise drives away evil spirits. Street scenes are bedlam: crowds of
participants being waved across intersections, others going about their daily
business as best they could, dealing with traffic jams, crackers, smoke,
dragons.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQkUGsas9zwXGxUzPTBAPTB4mMc4HDCSLRrQ3kyRJBL-pIc0q3a370iEUkuJxPhZPv6UvTphNsgzz93eJgYA45De5x2ivmbrIfDV5WjzOFLrm7FwdUQy76GCJN7hED33Zbjlu30xQDu4/s1600/IMGP2308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQkUGsas9zwXGxUzPTBAPTB4mMc4HDCSLRrQ3kyRJBL-pIc0q3a370iEUkuJxPhZPv6UvTphNsgzz93eJgYA45De5x2ivmbrIfDV5WjzOFLrm7FwdUQy76GCJN7hED33Zbjlu30xQDu4/s320/IMGP2308.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>All wonderful for observers, and no doubt a bonus for those
on the tourist bus stuck in the traffic below!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijVfuq2aZwkk66wtk9JdEtQhpccd8X5B-qRdQPmlG182OGyUjgnCWiv8nHYtTc5V3uY0nOTq8JIdBu9zKWOZiSLYYqXJFnFtSDvO3U_c8BvIJMDD5qCFFEeLBTJhDiN-EiKYJi8iAnKM/s1600/SAM_4538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijVfuq2aZwkk66wtk9JdEtQhpccd8X5B-qRdQPmlG182OGyUjgnCWiv8nHYtTc5V3uY0nOTq8JIdBu9zKWOZiSLYYqXJFnFtSDvO3U_c8BvIJMDD5qCFFEeLBTJhDiN-EiKYJi8iAnKM/s320/SAM_4538.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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After the procession, it was back at 9am, a cup of coffee
and back to work on the boat: just another ordinary day for us!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
October also saw Ketoro’s re-launch into the sea (well, the
filthy muck that is the marina water in Boat Lagoon). This marina, dredged out
of a mangrove swamp, is generally very shallow and all yachting activity must
wait for high tide. For our non-yachtie friends: monohulls (yachts with single
hull) have very deep drafts (very deep keels) and so cannot enter or leave the
marina except at very high tides. The catamarans like us have shallower drafts
so, although we still can only leave the marina at high tides, the actual water
depth required is somewhat less. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But we have other issues, like our broad beams. (Yes,
Irene’s beam IS becoming broader with all the convivial local food court meals
with friends, but we are referring to Ketoro’s beam here!) So, here is the
picture of our launch:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs8EqpKTgcFd30x8HHGqjJCYI1X44sQSccfuZHfLNgg7wgbkwwRKZz7-JTWwvI6_j2WA_mLdKCk5RRHMI0yr6pgGpIzczyvwm6SKKHnOhLtPZySS-sK9SXXzZP4Go9_FrY23TqG3OmlTA/s1600/IMGP2269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs8EqpKTgcFd30x8HHGqjJCYI1X44sQSccfuZHfLNgg7wgbkwwRKZz7-JTWwvI6_j2WA_mLdKCk5RRHMI0yr6pgGpIzczyvwm6SKKHnOhLtPZySS-sK9SXXzZP4Go9_FrY23TqG3OmlTA/s320/IMGP2269.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>The sides of the launching slip slope inwards, so we can
only be put into the water when it is near the top of the slip; the tidal range
here can be more than 2m. A nerve-wracking exercise, the launch: there are few centimetres to spare, and one is
very concerned at the thought of scratches on freshly painted and polished,
gleaming hulls…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The deed was done (successfully); all the furnishings, dive
gear, locker storage items that had been stored at a friend’s home were brought
back to the boat, we moved back on board, further work was completed on it,
and, with the tides dropping each day, committed to leave the marina while we still
could do so. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But of course we had to prepare for the change from a life
with access to transport and shops (at a marina, easy bike hire) and unlimited
fresh water and electricity, to one for which the boat had to provide all that
we could need: it was shopping time! It was occasionally difficult to figure
out which was our bike…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjmw8DmTxLiww4QmCtHtVEa30_ACL0k4S9AkVyRpu4RZHYMjbNflB11gAgp2kOlvaD9UUiOF8UsRvTOmS9FFIs2jGbGKK4UVquSQ0pPkVQSelA7tsrpTFdReJmtxdjC0brVk7yZbsW64/s1600/IMGP2313+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjmw8DmTxLiww4QmCtHtVEa30_ACL0k4S9AkVyRpu4RZHYMjbNflB11gAgp2kOlvaD9UUiOF8UsRvTOmS9FFIs2jGbGKK4UVquSQ0pPkVQSelA7tsrpTFdReJmtxdjC0brVk7yZbsW64/s320/IMGP2313+-+Copy.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Most importantly, there was still fun to be had whilst tied
to land… and it was Halloween! So Ketoro saw her first Halloween celebration
when Melisa, her friend and their children came to “trick or treat” us on
board.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbwsakI4RHXuYklZHV_jSbvPJl0PwLOBEe69UJDBYsiARuUNgQWKByJ1SkUcOX9NXjrBbxnDREDjBIFpb-6RLt9QkPa1okxmKVw5LSCRIqk8ZYmKml_cdYclEYU3au2nK51TGBa8dgBY/s1600/SAM_4602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCbwsakI4RHXuYklZHV_jSbvPJl0PwLOBEe69UJDBYsiARuUNgQWKByJ1SkUcOX9NXjrBbxnDREDjBIFpb-6RLt9QkPa1okxmKVw5LSCRIqk8ZYmKml_cdYclEYU3au2nK51TGBa8dgBY/s320/SAM_4602.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG41rCAC2Gs2vuLkNYVUfXdlk8HMqJEHlhlEl28lI_BSPs_Lwa4FoEsP69OyBEzc0gEaARod6Xuz91DKeBw2C4lAV9d77raEQ88mxF099_N0tzf-srFx5Q9txyzaSwBCDm0maa93ht5gk/s1600/SAM_4603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG41rCAC2Gs2vuLkNYVUfXdlk8HMqJEHlhlEl28lI_BSPs_Lwa4FoEsP69OyBEzc0gEaARod6Xuz91DKeBw2C4lAV9d77raEQ88mxF099_N0tzf-srFx5Q9txyzaSwBCDm0maa93ht5gk/s320/SAM_4603.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>It was time to leave this marina which has now seen Ketoro
three times taken out of the water for working on, since our arrival in 2010.
It is a great base to do boat work, with all the contractors and chandleries at
hand; it is well placed to access the rest of the island, and a walk around the
hard-stand provides endless interest, not least for the fact that some workers
bring their pets to work…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcTaLx-ioyUNzbcjs-r-1-EwjLJYbsnWn_3MC3k1imEga6FgauJgJedgiLmCtUoa9tyXS5mVeYY4-F4g9yFYMRbD1-ucsEzwKq8LZgifHEilwGWlQZs9VYorW4XgC-zOQvql_BEVWvnw4/s1600/SAM_4588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcTaLx-ioyUNzbcjs-r-1-EwjLJYbsnWn_3MC3k1imEga6FgauJgJedgiLmCtUoa9tyXS5mVeYY4-F4g9yFYMRbD1-ucsEzwKq8LZgifHEilwGWlQZs9VYorW4XgC-zOQvql_BEVWvnw4/s320/SAM_4588.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p> </o:p>Thai people love birds, and they, in their decorative cages,
are often seen carried by men-on-motorbikes to and from work. They sing
beautifully on the hardstand, providing a wonderful contrast to the
angle-grinders, hammering and general noise that is a boatyard. And it appears
that they do not mind sitting in their cage in the sun at lunchtime, while
their owners take lunch in the shade of a boat!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Well, after a time of feeling caged by all the work that was
demanded by the boat, we have now fuelled up…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3NK7mceuF_MLFPurqg9ccCIEg1wtna_UBDuVIygihWuuwUT5WhnpG6fcec4tvmhbkWIQmDxLteujuJW4YMOJYawJRgc2Er9lNoquIiXe0aetwuoS_98HHsUwnUUVeHYL9k3QIJAoBGo/s1600/IMGP2276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3NK7mceuF_MLFPurqg9ccCIEg1wtna_UBDuVIygihWuuwUT5WhnpG6fcec4tvmhbkWIQmDxLteujuJW4YMOJYawJRgc2Er9lNoquIiXe0aetwuoS_98HHsUwnUUVeHYL9k3QIJAoBGo/s320/IMGP2276.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>And are dancing at anchor in magnificent Phang Nga Bay,
sometimes (like here) alone in a spectacular spot, feeling that there is nobody
else in the world. We revel in the contrast with the previous 6 weeks…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgplRm1ceJX8kOGIWBJQuirlSon-Wv9kEx0YRQo-MFU-YvgJyNFzlxxnAZ3jTKkGAXu5FudInoeT_Wsq3FgtDDTR1ODSt9VAb-WXR_YIMkViRSIv51rM0ah7ljH2VV1ljJFuc48q-JZlfk/s1600/IMGP2416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgplRm1ceJX8kOGIWBJQuirlSon-Wv9kEx0YRQo-MFU-YvgJyNFzlxxnAZ3jTKkGAXu5FudInoeT_Wsq3FgtDDTR1ODSt9VAb-WXR_YIMkViRSIv51rM0ah7ljH2VV1ljJFuc48q-JZlfk/s320/IMGP2416.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>… but look forward to the days of springs high tide when
friends on monohulls can escape the marina and come and play in the bay!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiliSTzAtBWf2WxaAzx-TvRVTqi2BmTiZ_YRAb0ujiC-ZosGm0E4J-9KXcyI5SInc5jW12sarnRUamEHUHTeB1pd5uBUtY3wi3aCrS4x63SR2__ySXRQJ-e1-anUYZ2wEi6zRgggqEJxOg/s1600/SAM_4628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiliSTzAtBWf2WxaAzx-TvRVTqi2BmTiZ_YRAb0ujiC-ZosGm0E4J-9KXcyI5SInc5jW12sarnRUamEHUHTeB1pd5uBUtY3wi3aCrS4x63SR2__ySXRQJ-e1-anUYZ2wEi6zRgggqEJxOg/s320/SAM_4628.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-31509879438451104512012-10-09T18:35:00.000+02:002012-10-09T18:35:06.307+02:00Home Improvement<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">In our previous blog we went on a search for the meaning of
“home”. The thing is, just when you think you understand what <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">home </i>means in a general sense, someone
shows you another perspective…..<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">But for now, we are out of our carry-with-us home and are staying
in an apartment at Boat Lagoon Marina while we do home improvement: for which
Ketoro is now out of the water and on the hard-stand.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So many at home in SA are doing home improvement, so we
thought we would show you what home improvement on a boat means, in our case…<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Remember the cockpit roof (bimini) that was black with
mould? <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This is Ketoro with no cockpit roof, removed for scraping,
repairing, re-painting. The boat was extra-hot with that roof gone. The boat
was extra-wet with the roof gone too.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">While the roof was off, we found water in one of the
previously-dry inside lockers. Finger-test: fresh water. Aha…. Rain: traced
back to a now-exposed small crack on the chart-plotter cover (instrument at the
helm station), we found it had run down the inside of the electrical panel; so
this is the fan drying out the electrical wiring and connections!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This flap-down board (above) also houses the HF and VHF
radios, which went in for service, were repaired, but on checking …. Well, in
fact, they were not repaired. They are away again, and will no doubt at some
stage be returned in working order!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">There were also plenty of sunny days, and these were used to
get all sails down for repair and integrity checking; Rolf had to go up to
address issues that were preventing our storm-torn genoa sail from coming down.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hot days were also used to clean out the big front lockers …
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We removed the water and fuel tanks from the lockers, so
they could be cleaned and have inspection hatches cut into them (process
underway here): in future we will actually be able to see into the tanks - a
bonus, as their gauges are often not working. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A great mess was made of the trampoline area… Do you see the
sign Tyra in front of the boat? Great coffee…. Great air-conditioning… a great
break and hide-out!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Other jobs? This is our cabin, showing engine under the bunk and the auto pilot and rudder system behind the headboard – all now serviced and problems addressed.<o:p></o:p><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The pic below shows the bilge (under-floor compartment) showing three of Ketoro’s approximately 12 holes below the water-line, which are used to conduct sea-water to or from engines, aircons, toilets, water-maker etc. These holes, of course, are kept well sealed, but in 6 of these, the seacocks or through-hull fittings (like the one above) were rusted, and no doubt would have stopped functioning or started allowing water into the boat half-way across the ocean if left much longer.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This mess is our saloon! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The missing cushions are either at
the upholsterers for repair where they have been used too often as grab-handles,
or stored in a friend’s house nearby: kind souls lent us a spare room! The lid is
off the locker to work on batteries and aircon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">And of course the usual rust issues…<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Sent us on the bike out in the rain to the shops…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">And the tool section at Super Cheap sent Rolf into tool
euphoria!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">On the outside, there was scraping and anti-fouling (painting the undersides to diminish growth on the hulls) and
scrubbing and new props (these no longer make the grade).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Of course, all of this home improvement has been done to get
Ketoro fit and ship-shape for our 2013 trip across the Indian Ocean again: and it is clear that home improvement in this case includes the equivalent of doing the home electrics and plumbing and servicing the car. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We
have added a further 35m of anchor chain for deep anchorages at some stops on
the way and we checked our grab bags: these are containers that are equipped
with necessities if we have to hastily leave the boat and jump in the life-raft.
Well, of course we had grab-bags that we packed before we left more than 3
years ago; now was the time to unpack the two bright yellow containers….<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Summary: food out of date, now exchanged for fresher (and
more put in: we would have been very hungry from day three...); safety flares
out of date (of course); batteries, although dated 2015 and sealed in packets,
were leaking and useless; small mechanical water-maker and meds and first aid
ok…. But no knives, no fishing equipment, no torches…! I think these had been
gradually removed for daily duty over the last two years. Thankfully we have
not required the grab-bags before now and their deficiencies will be dealt with
before we set off from Thailand.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A lot of time has been spent doing research for the trip, for
which we have compiled screeds of notes on alternative routes and spread-sheets
with weather data, safety and security contact details (radio, phone, e mail). To
compile this lot took us trawling through books and the internet. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Of course, great heed was paid to sites such as the Foreign
and Commonwealth Office “Travel and Living Abroad” pages, where up-to-date info
was gained on piracy and pertinent country data. Whilst this was often quite
depressing, there was an occasional gem that lightened the moment, like this
extract from the </span><a href="http://www.fco.gov.uk/"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Calibri;">http://www.fco.gov.uk</span></a><span style="font-family: Calibri;">
pages:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-ZA;"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 15.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-ZA; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">Balcony
safety<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-ZA;"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-ZA;">There have been 13 incidents of young people falling from balconies so
far this year. Three of these cases resulted in death while others have been
seriously injured.<br />
<br />
We've joined forces with the Association of British Travel Agents to help
prevent balcony incidents among young people in popular holiday resorts. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We learn from all we read, so of course balcony safety will
play a prominent role in our planning and preparation from now on, and assumes
great importance when we drink a sun-downer on the balcony of our apartment at
the end of the day, avoiding a balcony incident while enjoying the view over
the marina towards Ketoro (home on the hard-stand), from the apartment (home-for-the-moment).
</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40tmTjZSbIz4CP2-jFS1ha365NfNMt_DGcruiS7G9bCeVvs7rLtryiVa6JIuYSCrJtjnLzySzO1mYMMnyXI72G5eOoFLx4k3YtgrbS4X9GaoZo70B7l0v7z88N205AbK9AhMQk2xAW3o/s1600/IMGP2212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh40tmTjZSbIz4CP2-jFS1ha365NfNMt_DGcruiS7G9bCeVvs7rLtryiVa6JIuYSCrJtjnLzySzO1mYMMnyXI72G5eOoFLx4k3YtgrbS4X9GaoZo70B7l0v7z88N205AbK9AhMQk2xAW3o/s320/IMGP2212.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">As we also plan quantities to provision for the trip, we are most grateful that
it is the balconies that are the problem, and not the sundowner drinks. Cheers!</span></div>
</div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-68367394427810956182012-09-17T16:42:00.000+02:002012-09-17T16:42:44.123+02:00Home is...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Boat life was abandoned late June for 10 weeks, as we set
off to meet two brand new and very special people - our first two grandchildren,
born within two weeks of each other. Freya (Barry and Kay’s wonderful daughter,
born in London) and Blake (gorgeous son of Mark and Livi in Cape Town).<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So London, then Cape Town, became our homes while we lived
with the families, sharing in their joys and trying to help make their introduction
to parenthood a little less exhausting. Our hearts were completely taken by the
little new-comers and we were content to spend hours gazing at these precious
beings.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjbGqzz4qmYF3l8-cGXgSius-deWTxlzDliM4YDq74KS5JPxnL37dSv19bKMVcOcqzH2VluW8OeYINRYx5Six8HkF2yviOhlerZVznymkIzKBv9KwkFcyneCdDGJ8kmNddHDYsk8xoGwM/s1600/SAM_3837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjbGqzz4qmYF3l8-cGXgSius-deWTxlzDliM4YDq74KS5JPxnL37dSv19bKMVcOcqzH2VluW8OeYINRYx5Six8HkF2yviOhlerZVznymkIzKBv9KwkFcyneCdDGJ8kmNddHDYsk8xoGwM/s320/SAM_3837.JPG" width="180" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstuQXIk2INl-TCWDpGmejbb8LqYEzWhdffZ8m-LwIFTruZvbuUD8VPv9ShFm3LAtZoLDkTjxLjrN1EU9UZqwDPmDL2_QEf4TxdWUzts0f3so1ov6hxHAj6Wr6K-hSMEu7i7Qj-34IhuU/s1600/SAM_4080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstuQXIk2INl-TCWDpGmejbb8LqYEzWhdffZ8m-LwIFTruZvbuUD8VPv9ShFm3LAtZoLDkTjxLjrN1EU9UZqwDPmDL2_QEf4TxdWUzts0f3so1ov6hxHAj6Wr6K-hSMEu7i7Qj-34IhuU/s320/SAM_4080.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Then it was on to Durban for a week and finally Pretoria,
previously home for 28 years. We allowed ourselves 10 days to touch base with
family and friends here – and with friends of such long-standing, felt
immediately and entirely at home. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Frequent questions were: ‘are you missing the boat?’ (No!)
and ‘where do you consider home?’ To which there is no quick or easy answer…. Here
are some pictures of our recent lives that try to fathom an answer!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">London and Cape Town: our hearts are there. Our hearts were always
there with our children (our sons and wonderful daughters-in-law)... BUT. Those
tiny babies… how do they do it? They put hooks under your skin as soft as
feathers and strong as steel and you know that your heart has been captured,
and home is dictated. Not that you will be physically alongside them daily or forever,
but in your mind, with them you are home.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Home was found again on land: more than 50 years of life on land
does not easily give way to living on the sea. Our storage unit in Pretoria contains
all our remaining land-life possessions (with apologies that some pics refuse to remain correctly orientated!):</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA1F-EkZHJN-HKrZjPS5LSWVV9Q8CBHM2B-x-eDs0UgxKc14YNHYSy1cNBBTXzxqwT4IuIWLvOBxo7IzDUdGfceLKahBWtYJ47WasTGY-Iu8dFiDXioneZfCosa0gGvlX0F3oI1-1Xzo4/s1600/SAM_4317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA1F-EkZHJN-HKrZjPS5LSWVV9Q8CBHM2B-x-eDs0UgxKc14YNHYSy1cNBBTXzxqwT4IuIWLvOBxo7IzDUdGfceLKahBWtYJ47WasTGY-Iu8dFiDXioneZfCosa0gGvlX0F3oI1-1Xzo4/s320/SAM_4317.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We found it significant that the only chair we held onto was
the ‘baby-feeding chair’, bought second-hand in Bethal 33 years ago!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">On land, it was easy to satisfy the need (evidently-daily) for
household shopping, getting about, eating out. Rolf found death-by-chocolate
drinks easily obtainable, to his obvious delight.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnz8g6wU7fmZw7KL_Prpc9gSNDyFa6xp35wQ2J5lT6tG9pcapPx7TKx0heiZUv6YslFWn1xaKGP2Cp78NQhfQTaphxwIKJ-O9QKURn0u0LTrxgzygRYgZeqmik-fRelGL3gz0MW9dPT3I/s1600/SAM_4333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnz8g6wU7fmZw7KL_Prpc9gSNDyFa6xp35wQ2J5lT6tG9pcapPx7TKx0heiZUv6YslFWn1xaKGP2Cp78NQhfQTaphxwIKJ-O9QKURn0u0LTrxgzygRYgZeqmik-fRelGL3gz0MW9dPT3I/s320/SAM_4333.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The roof over your head is secure and unlikely to move
violently, internet is reliable and fast, cars start and run reliably, pretty
gardens are the backdrop to outdoor meals, salt stored in an open pot runs
smoothly off the dispensing spoon. Days are fairly predictable and this gives
rise to considerable (and enviable) security and confidence.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The return to Ketoro, on the marina in Langkawi, Malaysia, saw
us wondering apprehensively how we would embrace home-on-the-sea again. We tackled
predictable and seemingly endless issues that arise when a boat is left unattended
on the water for an extended period: mould had blossomed (on hard surfaces,
upholstery and bedding, and, photo below, the underside of what used to be a
pristine white cockpit roof); <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5EB5TCH9SY8Lerssp9qsS8UWEM30ZEj3ab7C0aFOFbpyZavWqg45Xdx2HL8U0wv7nb02JkL3pNhGtADLtvzPDHy8jc4QETz3jAcSi9ngxy2ertTf4c2v6-Ret4uSQnw73vN5W2WELBBA/s1600/SAM_4350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5EB5TCH9SY8Lerssp9qsS8UWEM30ZEj3ab7C0aFOFbpyZavWqg45Xdx2HL8U0wv7nb02JkL3pNhGtADLtvzPDHy8jc4QETz3jAcSi9ngxy2ertTf4c2v6-Ret4uSQnw73vN5W2WELBBA/s320/SAM_4350.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">water intakes were blocked by barnacle and algae growth and
hence toilets did not flush and water inlets to engines, generator, air-cons
and watermaker needed clearing by diving in the murky harbour water; rust had lurked
quietly and unseen – before triumphing over our basin tap.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2CxDpt4ERTevQtZ8CNZgTjLcLo3Y0BlLCm2Jgx_smK1FQMj4T9XJgH_1PzJchFJlADMz5D7q6g8_fr1yaucfI9JSoNzHrrOWZSISqBO32o0O4kIWHRr6Xc33oreFiSRjfnnrsGEPKylo/s1600/SAM_4404.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2CxDpt4ERTevQtZ8CNZgTjLcLo3Y0BlLCm2Jgx_smK1FQMj4T9XJgH_1PzJchFJlADMz5D7q6g8_fr1yaucfI9JSoNzHrrOWZSISqBO32o0O4kIWHRr6Xc33oreFiSRjfnnrsGEPKylo/s320/SAM_4404.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This kind of predictability is unpleasant, so you turn to your
favourite luxuries for solace; in Rolf’s case (obviously) a chocolate drink.
First use the drill to break up the solid rock-hard block that is the chocolate
powder…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWOFqq5A3BtYyVnzQhpYHJr4OOYZAfLfId7Wozj6hkuE13fITZMFWibpI5h48lGg0GZ2MI115wALzzNQKqm3EJ4gsNSj3eq2d4hWFQVBqddLsmR5c7TB7tTc7hHTOSdUItTypWJ6_SsEE/s1600/SAM_4338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWOFqq5A3BtYyVnzQhpYHJr4OOYZAfLfId7Wozj6hkuE13fITZMFWibpI5h48lGg0GZ2MI115wALzzNQKqm3EJ4gsNSj3eq2d4hWFQVBqddLsmR5c7TB7tTc7hHTOSdUItTypWJ6_SsEE/s320/SAM_4338.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Suitably prepared and provisioned, we set sail towards
Phuket, Thailand; eager to be away from marinas and enjoying the travelling and
overnight anchorages at beautiful islands. This sunset on the first night was
promising… </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgahELNjgE9r9BjoUCP5tjpcQtW8kYTwsNU_cQ2dcp62eDRO1BSMKAn6MZ_CGfu7ky6s3cQyB9hxvGgGtv_aZzyBzjFEvAZFjw1KXKn4RsjrLifJxUWx97H-qKnpHu0vgGLbI7UhOycptE/s1600/SAM_4361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgahELNjgE9r9BjoUCP5tjpcQtW8kYTwsNU_cQ2dcp62eDRO1BSMKAn6MZ_CGfu7ky6s3cQyB9hxvGgGtv_aZzyBzjFEvAZFjw1KXKn4RsjrLifJxUWx97H-qKnpHu0vgGLbI7UhOycptE/s320/SAM_4361.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">but the promise of good weather was an illusion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A three-month sojourn off the boat had made us, Ketoro crew,
rusty too, but we learned very fast in weather that was sent to remind us that
this is the off-season (the south west monsoon winds building up a head of
steam as they cross the north Indian Ocean on their way to the low pressure
zone over the Asian landmass) and this home is different: squalls brought big
winds and rain, the genoa headsail tore before we could get control of it in
the high winds, the boat’s airborne gyrations in the rough seas caused problems
with aeration at water-intakes (drat those toilets and generator again!), anchorages
with rolly seas did not offer the usual opportunities to snorkel and relax: in
fact the wind coming from unexpected directions made the choice of anchorages risky
and troublesome; a strap on our canvas cover / water-catcher tore and we had
wave slamming on the bridgedeck, even at anchor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So: much of the trip was passed wishing we were anywhere
else… but anywhere else did not mean off the boat. It meant on the boat / in
the calm lee of an island / not wet. We do not wish ourselves off this home, despite
the fact that it is not predictable, secure or constant. Dolphins came to visit
on day two – for us, this is always a good omen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">And this home brought us here, on day four: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqIQCy_V3ei6JvyoFm9ftYPX0roK6PqpVph79A956yhJSEYuWH3WsDV3_hz2-6JBbeDZ2De0zy5kWy6JeRXcQjcLoQcCuX_njPIaomYLfDbV1-YYBOmHU1ly0yYYSeavadv9OZSlqWDVk/s1600/SAM_4433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqIQCy_V3ei6JvyoFm9ftYPX0roK6PqpVph79A956yhJSEYuWH3WsDV3_hz2-6JBbeDZ2De0zy5kWy6JeRXcQjcLoQcCuX_njPIaomYLfDbV1-YYBOmHU1ly0yYYSeavadv9OZSlqWDVk/s320/SAM_4433.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">in the relatively calm lee of a beautiful island, canvas
screens keeping the squalls and rain out, we swing from side to side and up and
down, but our glimpses through gaps in the canvas and the rain are of paradise.
And tomorrow that garden/island view may change as we move on, or we can choose
to make it home for another day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7nUjNwCS5WRTLZak3hCQORYeKgjOPl2JdTp7o3NlpPj4JAoYxJqk4hjzpvHkpx3bZIbfTMC8Vqu16QhyoezK8tNhYoz5Kpufc7bq34oRjwEYAWlgdZgjP9l48V2sONhKsBanpf2ahhaQ/s1600/SAM_4398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7nUjNwCS5WRTLZak3hCQORYeKgjOPl2JdTp7o3NlpPj4JAoYxJqk4hjzpvHkpx3bZIbfTMC8Vqu16QhyoezK8tNhYoz5Kpufc7bq34oRjwEYAWlgdZgjP9l48V2sONhKsBanpf2ahhaQ/s320/SAM_4398.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkwkmTz2JbtQXxWmUmAoIwfzCZkWVgiw6pFmWebcYjGEn53ID3tVxF1RQhWUm3A8MH-2YlMs6s8vw9FFHFab3YUrOn356QejFFaAyPzsfjZz44sfgY2NeBGsfiweZpNtDD9fKMcqaJZbc/s1600/IMGP2109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkwkmTz2JbtQXxWmUmAoIwfzCZkWVgiw6pFmWebcYjGEn53ID3tVxF1RQhWUm3A8MH-2YlMs6s8vw9FFHFab3YUrOn356QejFFaAyPzsfjZz44sfgY2NeBGsfiweZpNtDD9fKMcqaJZbc/s320/IMGP2109.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> W</span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">hen a ferocious squall hit the windward (west) side of the island
that is providing us with shelter (on the east), our wind instrument
nevertheless still registered 42 knot winds... from the north, refracted round the
headland and charging over us like a steam-roller... a
direction entirely unexpected, obviously, in this SW season! Happily, at this current anchorage
we are still safe, unlike at this previous one (below), claimed in the pilot
guide to be “ideal overnight any time of year”…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQWAZo_QbY3XfOXff7CSFc9VDvv0LbO7vfsRqhSCUd5ecYJUR2K4YS7MFWzWryoYxaGYK-Yv5TJ-3qxA0rlwuQFyVOURbI8_bWC8I0Muht6ZA8c-YVqHrpvSGKsK2-NFe4LQLdr_ZSHy4/s1600/SAM_4384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQWAZo_QbY3XfOXff7CSFc9VDvv0LbO7vfsRqhSCUd5ecYJUR2K4YS7MFWzWryoYxaGYK-Yv5TJ-3qxA0rlwuQFyVOURbI8_bWC8I0Muht6ZA8c-YVqHrpvSGKsK2-NFe4LQLdr_ZSHy4/s320/SAM_4384.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">where we spent the early morning hours holding position with
engines on (still at anchor) to avoid colliding with the reef as the refracted
wind from the north shoved us in that direction. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Are we comfortable where we are? No, not in the current
weather conditions, but it could be worse. Safe? Yes. And the views are
beautiful, storm or not.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So from here we can be out of harm’s way whilst getting on
with normal day-to-day life: updating stock lists, eating, giving Rolf a
haircut, communicating (writing e-mails and this blog), organising, planning
the jobs to be done on the boat when she is out the water on the hardstand for
the next month (at this stage the ‘jobs list’ is at 6 pages!). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">And it is here that we figure out the question of what home
means to us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Home is … In London. In Cape Town… Or wherever our children
and grandchildren are. <br />
And home is on the sea, in a boat that can safely carry us through waters of
unpredictable nature and in sufficient comfort for our current needs.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Now for the big question: when will we be able to escape
from this refuge to dash across the sea to the next, as we make our way to
Phuket? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Well, two days after our arrival here the weather calmed and
gave us this clear vista (below) of the above scene; the standing tall rock
gives the name to the Chicken Island (Ko Dham).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-ZA; mso-no-proof: yes;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We leave tomorrow, to get into the Phuket marina in a
further two days… soon after which we shall be able to upload this blog! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">(Post Script: at home in Boat Lagoon Marina now... and our home-on-water is about to be taken out of the water to become a home-on-the-dry-dock!)</span></div>
Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-31275179224523231602012-06-16T09:20:00.000+02:002012-06-16T09:20:30.527+02:00Leaving Thailand again<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Siam has many (hi)stories that offer enough intrigue and interest to be potentially good material for fascinating movies. Unfortunately, the King of Thailand (Siam) has frequently said no to any film-making done on location, and thus films on or about Thailand’s past were not filmed in Thailand. Two examples are ‘The Bridge on the River Kwai’ and ‘Anna and the King of Siam’.<br />
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When recently in Bangkok, we decided to visit the spot ABOUT WHICH the first of these films was made, i.e. the spot where it was NOT made! So we took a two-hour trip to Kanchanaburi and the Bridge over the River Kwai…<br />
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During 1942 and 1943 (World War II) the Japanese used Allied prisoners of war and civilian labour to build a 415km railway line between Burma and Siam (now known respectively as Myanmar and Thailand). This line became known as Death Railway as it cost the lives of over 15000 POWs and over 100000 Thai and Burmese civilians as a result of sickness, malnutrition, exhaustion and maltreatment. <br />
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The poignant but beautiful and immaculately maintained Allied War Cemetery for 7000 POWs stands near the site of the former Kanburi POW base camp.<br />
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Kanchanaburi was the site of notorious internment camps for the Allied troops; the history is really well presented at the Thai-Burmese Railway Centre (museum) and the JEATH War Museum, constructed by the Chief Abbot (and in the grounds of) Wat Chaichumpol, a Buddhist Temple. The bamboo museum’s construction resembles that of an Allied POW camp. <br />
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JEATH is an acronym for the nations that participated in the war effort here, as indicated by the flags: Japan, England, Australia, Thailand, Holland.<br />
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Just north of Kanchanaburi is The Bridge on the River Kwai. <br />
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This bridge was part of the Death Railway line, actually built to span the Mae Klong River. In the 1957 film The Bridge on the River Kwai, filmed in Sri Lanka (then Ceylon), the river is incorrectly identified. However, the extreme popularity of the film brought about an influx of tourists to Thailand, looking for the “Bridge on the River Kwai”, so in the 1960s the name of the river was pragmatically changed from Mae Klong to Kwae Yai! (The tourist buck clearly has power, as also seen by the number of towns now named Shangri-La after the book, one example being Zhongdian… now Shangri-La… the lovely city we visited in China).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourist train on "Bridge on the River Kwai"</td></tr>
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The original POW timber bridge was bombed several times (with varying degrees of success) by the Allied forces; this is long gone and what we see today is the steel bridge that was built a few months later and a couple of hundred metres upstream and that has also been repaired after a successful bomb attack near the end of the war: the round truss spans are the originals and the angular replacements (see in pic above) were supplied by Japan as war reparations.<br />
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Kanchanaburi, the town, is actually a fun place to be, despite being surrounded by a tragic past, and three days spent enjoying the historical sites, eating and having massages is a wonderful way to spend time while waiting for a UK visa in Bangkok!<br />
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There is also a beautiful 7-tiered waterfall, Erewan Falls, that has a Thai twist; <br />
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... here, at stage three, you share the pool with cleaner fish… you know the little ones they have in glass boxes for “fish massage” at Thai tourist towns? Well, their huge grandparents are here in this pool, looking for your skin cells!<br />
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The return to Bangkok took us down typical Thai streets with evocative street-light decorations … and a reminder that the King is always around!<br />
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After Bangkok it was back to Ketoro in Phuket, where we had to acclimatise to days of more than 34 deg. C temperature and 95% humidity again. But we needed to get to Langkawi, Malaysia: a visa run for the two of us and the boat. After having had a fairly long break from sailing we were happy to get into it again, so cleared out of Thailand and set off with good winds which allowed the sails to work (for a change) but the uncomfortable rolly sea from many days of wind challenged our stomachs and reminded us that our sea legs needed exercise!<br />
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Three days later it became “interesting”! We were due to go first to an anchorage at Telaga (in Langkawi, Malaysia) which is shallow and has a bad reputation for providing poor holding for anchors, particularly with winds from the SW. Heading across there on the uncomfortable sea, the winds picked up from the SW and we decided to try to find an alternative place to anchor. We therefore turned back into Thai waters and spotted a number of fishing boats holed up on the south east side of Tarutao Island. The locals know what they are doing so that is where we anchored…<br />
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Staying two nights in the company of more than 35 fishing boats and a tug and barge, all taking refuge from the weather, we watched a moving world as Ketoro danced and slewed about in the winds (happily limited to 25 knots) that bulleted across us from different directions. The fishing boats gave us considerable swinging room and half the bay, while these heavy boats took up the other half of the bay, rafted together in lines of three to seven boats, and close to each other. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing boats rafting up</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are 18 fishing boats in this small area</td></tr>
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The shallow waters of the bay were churned up by erratic swells, and one morning we were treated to the sight of pink-marked dolphins enjoying their feed around us. <br />
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The decision not go to Telaga was fortuitous: we heard that there was chaos in the anchorage, with huge gusts of wind (50 to 60 knots) and some boats dragging anchor and crashing into each other. (In discussion with other yachties, we are quiet about the fact that our worst loss was Irene’s vodka and orange which was tossed everywhere when a big cushion was blown off the sunbed onto the table!) Our refuge off Tarutao (albeit with little sleep on the first night) had provided interest and also beauty from surprising sources.<br />
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We are now in a marina on Rebak Island, near Langkawi (Malaysia) and the notorious Telaga anchorage… which has the crumbling film-set of that other film on Siam. <br />
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A falling-apart old house on the beach at Telaga is all that remains of the Summer Palace of King Rama IV of Siam, as filmed for Anna and the King. When the real, current King of Thailand said “no”, that film was shot in Malaysia (in Langkawi, Penang and Ipoh); later, the Thai authorities did not allow the film’s distribution in Thailand as some scenes were construed to be disrespectful towards the King. The Summer Palace now provides a lovely backdrop for the wedding photos of this gorgeous Malay couple, a sight we were delighted to come upon some time ago.<br />
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Current status? Ketoro is to be left in this marina, safe from storms, until mid September while its crew travel to the UK and then SA to meet their two new grandchildren!</div>Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8660918337150499256.post-41904651175683774802012-05-27T12:43:00.002+02:002012-05-27T12:43:51.643+02:00China 4: China in a month.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
China in a month. Or rather, a month in China; it would take over a year to explore this huge country!<br />
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But we had a one month visa, so we set the itinerary to get the best/most we could get out of "China in a month". A fair amount of this is covered in our first three blogs, and this last one is a photo-summary of each stop on the awesome journey, from start to finish… our trip from east to NE to centre to SW gave us some fascinating glimpses of what this country of great diversity offers.<br />
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<strong>Hangzhou</strong><br />
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This 1000 year old core city of the Yangtze River delta was our entry point to China. Hangzhou’s West Lake is renowned for viewing the culture and adjacent historical pagodas, cultural sites etc. but we had only one jet-lagged day… so we spent it enjoying our first Chinese park area.<br />
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What a treat! Sights and sounds as you would expect and hope for: green grass-fringed walkways winding along the sides of the lake and through beautifully planted and maintained gardens with bridges and pagodas as points of focus; rolling hills around the lake which was dotted with rowboats and small radio-controlled sailing boats. <br />
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Then the people using the park: individuals doing tai-chi routines; <br />
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small groups having lessons: here ballroom dancing, there aerobics; <br />
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a dozen ladies singing for passers-by just for fun; kids and adults flying kites; <br />
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throngs of people there to enjoy the fresh air and the entertainment provided (intentionally or not) by the others. The Chinese create the most beautiful and richly textured parks and then make such good and healthy use of them. <br />
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The hotel, eventually found by the taxi driver, at $45 was twice the cost of our usual budget and even then we were grateful for our Vietnam-purchased silk sleeping bags! Then it was off by train to…<br />
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<strong>Suzhou</strong><br />
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Canals, stone bridges, pagodas, gardens. <br />
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Renowned as “Venice of the east” and “heaven on earth”, Suzhou is famous for its unique, elegant gardens; we saw that Chinese gardens focus as much on the architecture of the many structures and buildings as the botanical aspects. The city is traversed by a network of rivers and canals that make for pleasant trips on poled wooden boats through the Moon Gates.<br />
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In downtown Suzhou, not the old town section, morning groups of old residents danced and exercised in a square adjacent to a construction site. The older Chinese appear to be very conscious of exercise; outdoor exercise apparatus is often to be found simply alongside a street.<br />
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Some areas and shops are very upmarket; our hotel was not in one of them and we were serenaded by ferociously bad karaoke from across the road. Crossing roads is a challenge due to the hundreds of silent electric scooters /motorbikes.... Actually, walking on the sidewalks is even more hazardous as they drive on these and you just don't hear them coming! <br />
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Having discovered this peril in Suzhou, we were prepared for it at our next stop, Beijing, which we reached at speed and luxury in an incredible express train.<br />
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<strong>Beijing</strong><br />
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It is the size of things in China that took us by surprise. We have seen the pictures but they in no way prepare you for the enormity and scale of places, the architecture and decoration, how costly (in resources and manpower… and men’s lives) the old projects were: and how big an ego must have conceived of the plans and contrived to put these enormous projects together. Beijing is an excellent base to start exploring examples of these sites…<br />
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The Great Wall. Built to keep the northern barbarians out of the Middle Kingdom, it is a real wonder: on average an 8m high and 7m wide earth, brick and stone structure with endless watchtowers, it rolls across 6400 km of peaks, ravines and deserts. Begun in the 5th century BC, the first Chinese emperor worked on it around 220BC, then a 100-year rebuilding project was undertaken in the Ming Dynasty (1500s). <br />
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We saw the wall at Mutianya (here, with reflections from cable car windows), a section less touristy than others and an excellent place to observe the outstanding feat and imagine the millions of conscripted labourers in this immense and grand project. <br />
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In the centre of Beijing, the third biggest square in the world, Tiananmen Square, is a 109 acre area fronting the Gate of Heavenly Peace (Tianenmen Gate) which is the entry to the Forbidden City. This massive, sprawling complex of 980 buildings was the Imperial Palace (the emperor’s city) for 5 centuries from 1400 and required a million workers to build. <br />
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Picture the scene: a procession of 1000 eunuchs, courtiers and ministers leaving the Imperial Palace at the Forbidden City and going to the Temple of Heaven nearby. Well, twice a year the emperor and this retinue made this short trip, to stay for a time of fasting and praying for good harvests. <br />
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This 270 hectare park has wonderful Ming – dynasty architectural complexes, and is another park well-used by local people playing musical instruments and exercising.<br />
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Of course, the Emperor also required a Summer Palace, another huge site that also provided us with hours of walking and gaping! Eventually you need to sit down… so the two best ways to do this in Beijing is to sit in a restaurant that specialises in “Peking Duck” and get to the famous Beijing Acrobat Show, which was nothing short of jaw-dropping and spectacular. <br />
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Imagine yourself, for example, driving a motorbike in a spherical ball big enough to fit on a biggish stage. Now another motorbike enters with you. Then another…. and another… until there are six other bikes in there with you. It will probably make you more comfortable rather to imagine you are watching this, although even that was accompanied by enormous tension. Now the theatre lights go off, and there is just the roar of seven motorbikes and the flashes of headlights as they criss-cross amazingly inside this “ball of death”. An astounding, death-defying feat, that is just one act in an incredible show of strength, balance, gymnastics and talent.<br />
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We stayed in an original courtyard home (turned into a hotel) in one of Beijing’s hutong areas. Most of the way of life of the old city can be seen in these hutongs: old alleyways winding between a tangle of houses and courtyards which are hidden behind gates decorated with characters to bring good fortune to the owners. <br />
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Our hutong is still a local residential area and a great place to see hole-in-the-wall noodle shops and gambling dens, wander the streets and observe life in the old areas. Many of the hutongs are being razed to make way for newer accommodation with better plumbing and electricity for local residents. In the tourist hutongs, many of the homes are now small shops.<br />
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We left Beijing by train, in an eventful trip (described in blog 2) to…<br />
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<strong>Datong</strong><br />
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This is a dirty, dusty, polluted coal-mining city, but a base for two major sites: the Yungang Grottoes and Hanging Temples.<br />
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In the 5th century BC work started on carving Buddha statues in shallow caves in sandstone cliffs; before the project ended in 525AD there were 252 of these Yungang Grottoes displaying over 50,000 carved images and statues of Buddhas and bodhisattvas, ranging from a few centimeters to 15 meters tall. <br />
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Preservation and repair work was done on the caves in the 11th and 17th centuries and the number, quality and beauty of the caves and artworks is striking. <br />
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The 1500 year old Hanging Temple of Hengshan Mountain is a temple that clings to a sheer precipice, 75m above the ground, held in place by oak cantilever beams fitted into holes chiselled into the cliff. <br />
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The Hanging Temple was apparently built by a monk around 400-500 AD, then rebuilt / restored after being damaged by the Red Guard during the Cultural Revolution. It is an incredible architectural and engineering achievement with 40 chambers and a network of narrow passageways; it is also notable as it has a “Triple Religion Hall” containing Confucian, Taoist and Buddhist statues: all are welcome to worship here. <br />
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In Beijing we had seen, in various places, tall screen walls and were unsure of their function. We learned that here: spirit screens or spirit walls are used to shield entrance gates; they thus protect the home / temple / city from evil spirits, which are believed can only move in straight lines and cannot get around corners. <br />
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This 45m long, 8m high and 2m wide Nine-Dragon Wall, in front of the mansion of the 13th son of the first Ming dynasty Emperor must have contributed greatly to his peace of mind!<br />
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Our MMM (Most memorable Meal: see blog 1) in which we searched the sheep’s head for meat (while entertaining the local customers) was followed by a comfortable train trip to…<br />
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<strong>Pingyao</strong><br />
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This wonderfully preserved 2700 year old town was previously a financial hub of China but since this function was moved elsewhere, Pingyao was saved from development and has preserved its character: Ming-dynasty walls of clay, brick and stone – we walked on the wall to see the modern city outside the moat, and the views of life in the old town inside the walls. <br />
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There are about 4000 preserved traditional Ming and Qing buildings, interesting ancient financial institutions and commercial buildings inside the ancient city. <br />
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In the main streets, every little shop-house sells curios and trinkets aimed at us wandering tourists, but local residents also pass the time alongside their stores playing games… entertaining themselves as well as us!<br />
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While all the curio shops are very interesting to see, it is good to wander the back streets to explore some “real” life. <br />
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You are also welcomed into the ancient Taoist Temple and its graphic depiction of the brutality that awaits the unlucky ones that are consigned to hell. <br />
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After a couple of day trips from Pingyao, we had our last train trip: to…<br />
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<strong>Xi'An</strong><br />
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Picture this: in 221BC Emperor Qin Shi Huangdi founded the first unified China, and the first imperial dynasty. But he is described as a ruthless megalomaniac and had a great mausoleum built for himself. What an ego: he then surrounded his tomb with thousands of life-sized statues of his personal army (each with unique facial features) to protect him when he died. The project apparently involved 700 000 workers over 36 years, and thousands of them are purported to be buried here. <br />
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This army of Terracotta Warriors just outside Xi’An is an incredible sight that was only discovered in 1974. Excavation work is on-going; the site is a huge archaeological dig.<br />
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What we saw: an enormous terracotta army in an underground tomb of 3 large underground vaults housing over 8000 life-size warriors, horses and chariots; this is believed to be only a tiny fraction of the whole and to excavate it fully, 12 villages would have to be relocated! What also becomes obvious is the incredible size of the job for archaeologists: to take countless shards and put them together to re-construct this army is a job of immense magnitude and patience.<br />
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Xi’An was once (10th century) the biggest city in the world and was China’s capital for 1000 years: the destination of Silk Road traders. It is now a huge, bustling, congested city with the old part encircled by its ancient wall. <br />
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Cycling on the 13m wide wall of the ancient city of Xi'An (much restored), 12m above the ground, you can't help but be awed that most of this structure was laid down in the Ming dynasty, 1100. An inspiring 11km cycle shows the old city inside (temple in the corner), huge new city (with about 50 tower cranes at work when we were there) outside the moat and gardens, and giant gates ushering the heavy traffic through.</div>
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We left Xi'an after many other visits to historical sites, museum, Great Mosque (lovely Muslim mosque with no dome: Chinese architecture) and fun Muslim street, saying goodbye to Sonja and Delwin as we flew to Yunnan Province. <br />
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This is sometimes called the rebellious province because it is home to most of the minority groups who have traditionally rebelled against the ruling Han Chinese. The attraction for us was the different beauty of the province (mountains, huge rivers and tumbling falls) and an interest in seeing the minority groups, of whom a large proportion still wear their traditional garments and live as they have for centuries.<br />
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<strong>Lijiang</strong><br />
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Since the booking site had the wrong number for our guest house, we got to know the pretty, narrow, winding cobblestone roads and waterways of Lijiang Old Town quite well in our first few hours there! <br />
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This 6000 years old city was an important hub in the Tea and Horse Caravan road, and is now a quaint place to stroll along, sample the foods of the local ethnic groups (mostly Naxi people) and browse the hundreds of tiny shops selling their craft. <br />
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With Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the background, it is a beautiful city, but very full of tourists: domestic tourism in China is huge, and it is best to try not to be at the popular spots over the weekends, if you wish to be able to move freely!<br />
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After a fun and busy two day stay we were ready to go up to the Tibetan plateau and observe Tibetan culture in…<br />
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<strong>Zhongdian</strong><br />
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There is a book called Shangri-La, written in 1933 by James Hilton. He described a paradise on earth but was not specific about its location; thus there are now many towns that have claimed to be this fabled place called Shangri-La… in Nepal, Pakistan, Bhutan and China. <br />
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China officially changed the name of Zhongdian to Shangri-La in 2001, but it is still locally known as Zhongdian (or, in Tibetan, Gyeltang). The move probably helped to boost tourism, but there are far fewer Chinese tourists here than in Lijiang or Dali and mostly western tourists venture here. This is a wonderful place to observe Tibetan culture, as a special permit is required to visit Tibet itself and the permit is difficult to get. In the photo above we are looking past the prayer flags over the town to the snow-covered mountains.<br />
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We loved our visit here: the Tibetans stand out from the Han Chinese in appearance, and most people have not changed their traditional garb; their architecture of square, three-storey homes with bright scrollwork is very different from the rest of China; yaks in the farms (and in the towns, here with the owner’s possessions protected from the rain); yak meat, yak bells and yak tails hanging in the shops! <br />
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Also in the shops: fake tiger furs and genuine local crafts, interesting foods, lots of incense and great Tibetan daggers. Meanwhile, ladies daily set out their handcrafts and provide food in the square.<br />
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Prayer flags made cold, drab, winter scenes very cheery and imparted a lovely ambience; locals walk clockwise around the prayer wheels, worrying their beads and sending their dreams and prayers upwards. <br />
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Trips on local buses, which we undertook fairly often to see “modern” Shangri-La, were always fascinating with a range of customers sharing the trip with us, all wearing the garments of their minority group or in other ways vitally different from us.<br />
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Songzanlin Lamasery is a huge, golden, multi-storied sprawling Monastery complex accommodating 700 Tibetan Buddhist lamas (spiritual leaders) and monks … and currently undergoing extensive repair (and reconstruction?)<br />
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From Shangri-La we took a day trip to Tiger Leaping Gorge: a beautiful, extremely deep and dramatic river canyon (in places under steep 2000m cliffs); terraced and farmed part way up the sides where less steep, and worth a hike (assisted in the odd place by vertical long ladders) down to the raging Jinsha (Golden Sands) River at the base, a primary tributary of the Upper Yangtze. Legend has it that a tiger jumped across the 25m narrowest section to escape a hunter: this long jump champion gave rise to the demand for fake tiger furs in the shops…!<br />
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We froze in Shangri-La! The city was surrounded by snow-topped mountains, we did not have the right clothes, and the guest house only switched on the heating after 8pm! Added to the fact that we were at about 3500m, and thundering up and down mountains… some of that imprudent behaviour contributed to Rolfs suffering high fevers on the night before we left, and the 9-hour bus trip (a fascinating trip, see blog 2) was embraced because every minute we were decreasing altitude. Our sea-level-accustomed lungs did not appreciate the higher altitude, much as we appreciated the city we had visited. <br />
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<strong>Dali</strong><br />
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Dali Old Town is beautifully situated in the middle of the Cangshan Mountains to the west and Erhai Lake to the east, and is another old city with preserved ancient walls and gates. <br />
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Arriving late after the lovely (and long) bus trip, a long walk into the old city and struggle to find the guest house (the address provided by the booking site was again not very useful), ill Rolf was put to bed and Irene set off to find food. Turns out we were at the wrong end of town for buying food that was in any way recognisable and certain of not containing MSG (allergy), so all that could be rounded up in a 90 minute search was this…<br />
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The hard old cake went down well with the fresh milk, and Snickers are always cheering (and, Rolf thinks, a wholesome and balanced food). Later, we found many places with wonderful food... so we got our real wholesome food!<br />
Dali is the cradle of civilization of another ethnic minority, the Bai people, who originally acted as middlemen between tea growers from Xishuangbanna and horse traders from Tibet. Bai ladies are renowned for their beautiful embroidered items, but unfortunately when you are backpacking there is absolutely no space for holiday mementoes.<br />
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Another long-haul bus was the chosen transport to get (health improving) Rolf and (health deteriorating) Irene to…<br />
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<strong>Kunming</strong><br />
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This was the last town in our awesome China trip. Although Kunming does have to-do-and-see things to offer tourists, we were completely unable to do it justice; being ill (and, really, exhausted!) we used it as a fly-out venue. The hotel was close to the airport and far from any tourist opportunities: and this proved more interesting to us than being in another street-of-curio-shops, knowing that we had seen the very best of this province in the previous three cities.<br />
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Looking out from the hotel window on arrival, Irene panicked, convinced she would fall the 24 floors, <br />
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But when good health was restored she enjoyed hanging out of the window to assess her environment. A highlight was watching the specks moving in formation on the square below, which proved to be children in the school yard doing their daily exercise routines before break time!<br />
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And so the holiday ended. When we left China we felt as though every sense and memory bank was exploding from the enormity of the inputs and exceptional experience of our trip, despite the fact that we had merely scratched the surface of the country. We are awed by a history and a culture that stretches back centuries, with exceptional artefacts and structures still evident, and our hearts were taken by the people and land of Yunnan province.</div>Rolf and Irenehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08724807188005167795noreply@blogger.com1